Here is a list of all the postings ega has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sweet Little 1/2" Micrometer|
Thanks for the further information. Having only a faint recollection of the Robblak name, it never occurred to me that they might not be the makers but it's certainly not a name I associate with mics. The position of the engraving looks right for the maker so could it have been over-written? That seems unlikely, which perhaps leaves the identity of the maker a bit in doubt. That said, there were at one time a great many tools on the market which were simply labelled "Foreign" but I can't call to mind the background to this practice.
Anything you measure with it will never know the difference!
Brown & Sharpe, who claim to have produced the first practical micrometer, used to list various 1/2" models and the Robblak example is very like some of their pre-war offerings. Remarkable that the Robblak has retained its accuracy - is the fixed anvil removable as the slotted screw suggests and did you disturb it when overhauling the mic?
|Thread: Myford ML4|
Thanks for your description of your belting system. I had not heard of the Redthane brand although I am familiar with the concept; on looking further I saw a reference to "Greenthane" also.
On the subject of shifting vee belts from sheave to sheave, this can be done with a suitable lever at the expense of belt life but the practice is frowned on and I don't think it would be possible in motion. Someone mentioned the use of link belting on the Super Seven, a method which I adopted some time ago. At the outset, I was disappointed to find that the bulkier section compared with standard vee belting prevented shifting between the large countershaft pulley sheave and its smaller neighbour and it was some time before I realized that this could be achieved by rotating the pulley backwards!
Thanks for your continued help. The search box at top right should come with a health warning or pointer to the Google search box as the present arrangement is counter-intuitive to say the least. You would think that one genuine use for the forum search would be to locate postings by particular members; however, a quick check against my own site name + "model engineer website" suggests that Google is more effective, although I have yet to explore the forum expanded search facility.
I found the Naismith website helpful on the tension point - thanks again.
I take your point about respect for old machinery. As the ML4 is capable of real work I suppose that it's the balance between its original character and present usability that matters. In this connection, it's interesting to see how Myfords developed their classic lathe; they lost me when they made it impossible to open the change gear cover without a tool.
Foul ups: the conventional vee belt slips, of course. I didn't realize that a flat belt would react by coming off the pulley and find this interesting because I understood that it was the tension in the belt that caused it to ride up to the crown of the pulley.
Many thanks indeed. I will certainly look at your results.
For my benefit, what search string did you use? I did take your advice and search from the home page although it is hard to see why this should make any difference.
I found only one very short thread which didn't cover the points which came to mind when I saw your suggestion.
I have no experience of Poly-V apart from those under the bonnet and in the washing machine but did wonder how they stand up to operating in an oily environment. Also, I understand that they should be run considerably tighter than conventional vee belts thus increasing the pull on the spindle.
|Thread: How to fit a taper pin?|
It may also be good idea to find some means of identifying the small end for when you want to remove it.
|Thread: A 'Starter Kit' for a Stent T&C?|
I would be very interested to know where to buy one of those special oxide sticks. Are they also capable of dressing CBN wheels, I wonder?
|Thread: Tailstock and other tooling by Martin Cleeve|
Excellent photos in my opinion. They certainly demonstrate the high standard of finish MC achieved despite fabricating from MS sections rather than using castings. The overall effect is enhanced by the lathe's finish in Myford Green rather than the "correct" gray colour; I made the same decision when re-building my own machine some years ago.
The relevant constructional articles for the tailstock are in MEs for 12 and 26 July 1956.
Given that MC was a proponent of the swing clear toolpost it is perhaps surprising that he seems not to have thought of the type of screwcutting toolholder that swings up at the end of the cut - sorry, I can't immediately recall what these are usually called!
|Thread: morse taper sticking|
Again, thanks. Oddly enough I couldn't see Wink 2 in that list.
Thanks for the workaround.
A further thought: the instruction to substitute the unwanted smiley is not executed until the text is posted which is perhaps why some forums incorporate a preview. The preview also gives an opportunity to deploy the blue pencil before going public.
Thanks for enlightening me. It would be helpful if there were a list of these features or, better, the facility to turn them off.
Does anyone know why a standard right bracket becomes a Smiley (as in my recent post in this thread)?
I like the idea of Thor with a big copper hammer (apparently named "Mjolnir" but not the practice of "flogging the draw bar". My very basic mill/drill is now fitted with a self-extracting draw bar which I use to remove most tooling; other tools are removed via the slot in the quill with the appropriate tapered drift.
On the Super Seven I use a lever-operated tailstock with resident sliding hammer but I still have to tap the drawbar for headstock tooling.
I never oil or grease MT tapers. There was a suggestion that suspect shanks should be inserted with a paper slip but I have never tried this.
|Thread: Arc Euro Trade ML7 cross slide leadscrew modification|
Isn't your backlash in the nut/leadscrew?
GHT wrote the book on improving Myford cross-slides.
|Thread: Painting aluminium|
I used Hammerite Special Metals Primer available from Halfords and no doubt elsewhere on the aluminium castings of my Speedy recumbent trike. You can overpaint with "most paints" and clean brushes with water. My topcoat is still there.
|Thread: collet chuck|
garrygun said "affordable". I imagine you know more about this than I do so what would you suggest?
Incidentally, in my post what was intended to be a right bracket has come out as an emoticon.
My vintage Willson slantbed came with a Burnerd Multisize collet chuck and collets designated MC3 -13 (1.125" - 1.5". These look similar to the EC collets mentioned by KWIL and I was interested to see from the Rotagrip website that EC collets can be used with hexagonal as well as smooth round stock. If you have the money you can also get collets with serrated jaws for gripping black bar, etc.
Depending upon what is meant by "affordable", I would consider a taper-mounted ER40 chuck and collets (range 3-26mm).
|Thread: Modern taps.......|
Ian S C:
Sorry if I wasn't clear - I did find your table in your photo album. I see you have now been able to transfer the photo to this thread, something I have yet to attempt.
I did, however, produce a thread in softish aluminium without difficulty. As it happens, my Roltap brand tool turned out to be marked with a tap drill size - 7.4mm - and I actually used 7.35 which was my nearest drill and fell neatly between the high and low range figures. Under a lens the thread appeared to be not quite fully formed.
Harold Hall makes some interesting comments including that a good quality lubricant, not a cutting oil, must be used; my favourite Rocol RTD claims to be suitable for "forming operations"
I realize I have committed the all-too-common sin of asking for information which I should perhaps have first looked up myself. The up side is that the many see potentially useful material rather than just the one.
I looked out my single 5/16" 24 UNF thread-forming tap and ran all three methods of determining the correct tap drill size with results varying between 7.3mm and 7.4mm. This might seem quite a large range but there is the variable of thread depth to consider; I used 75% for the Guhring calculator.
I also checked three other possible hardcopy sources:
Machinery's Handbook 1943 - apparently unknown then
Newnes Mechanical Engineer's Pocket Book 1997 - not mentioned
Tubal Cain's Handbook - not mentioned so far as I could see but he was very keen on the correct size for conventional taps
Harold Hall's Data Book (WPS 42) - he calls them fluteless and gives 7.3mm
Now off to the workshop to form a thread with the thought in mind that these taps presumably require a relatively large degree of axial pressure.
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