Here is a list of all the postings ega has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: aching ribs - posture|
Sounds like a good tip; can you confirm that it is the book by Claire Davies that you recommend, please?
(There are a number of titles with similar names).
|Thread: fobco drill|
Could the slit be left incomplete to prevent the casting closing up too much due to released stresses?
|Thread: Taper attachment|
Thank you; you are the master of the LINKing art!
Tap and test should not be necessary with the Smith gauge but if needed the GHT-style adjuster is a great help:
(The "topslide" in my picture is actually an ML7-style cross slide which is good for longer tapers).
You could if you made and used a Smith taper gauge; see my posts in this thread:
|Thread: Upside down reverse threading|
Light bulb moment: running the tool upside down at the front would deal with my visibility problem - thank you!
You have not mentioned this in vain.
However, the direct import Chinese tool-holder I used to try this would, I think, only be usable with relatively short threads. I was surprised by how well this method worked given that the tool seems to be working the wrong way round in relation to the helix angle of the thread.
I found also that the work is more difficult to see working like this and it was obviously necessary to be very disciplined about moving switches and levers in the appropriate direction.
|Thread: Myford raising blocks|
Roger King 1:
Here is the photo I promised:
Each jacking screw cum raising foot consists of a length of large diameter studding with the upper end tapped 5/16" BSF, a short cylindrical foot of about 1.5" diameter, two nuts to suit the studding and the 5/16" hold down bolt and washer. The lathe foot sits on the adjustable upper nut (not on the studding) and is held down by the bolt.
Thinking about this at many years' distance from when I did it, it seems clear that the cylindrical feet must be tapped to suit the studding, the lathe tray and underlying structural member being firmly gripped between the foot and the bottom nut.
I hope this is clear!
I have sent you a PM
This post by Peter G.Shaw refers to my favoured solution:
I have a variation of this method on my Super Seven: it is effective and a good deal cheaper than the Myford offering.
|Thread: Parting off stainless hex bar|
It's normal for the initial interrupted cut to be noisy. You could consider taking off the flats with a front-mounted HSS tool at slower speed and then move to the RTP at your favoured speed and feed.
|Thread: 3 1/2 horizontal bandsaw worm gear failure|
Interesting that after ten years you are still using the same blade which suggests that the machine has been very lightly used.
Incidentally, I assume this is the Warco product.
|Thread: Threading 1/8 stainless steel|
Are you using a suitable cutting oil or paste?
I would certainly try the collet.
How about screwcutting?
|Thread: Lathe Mill Combo setup|
The "spare jaws" for the three jaw chuck are likely to be reversed configuration jaws which allow larger items to be held.
Good luck with your machine; it's seems to be well-equipped.
|Thread: joining green laminated belt|
Good to know and a relief from some of the overreaction to safety legislation.
|Thread: Cheap link belts|
Namely? I have been wondering about this myself.
|Thread: joining green laminated belt|
Good idea but could you buy an electrical appliance in such a place?
|Thread: Bolted or Feet?|
The set of four supporting my (unbolted) 500KG lathe came from Warco.
Incidentally, that weight does not include the ballast I have loaded into the cabinet.
|Thread: DIY Bed Gap|
Before getting a larger lathe I made and fitted a 9" flywheel to the quill of my mill/drill. This was made from black MS but the idea came from someone who had used a brake disc for the purpose. Mine was faced on the Super Seven by bolting to the faceplate. The finish is adequate but far from perfect:
Another job in the Myford just fouled the ends of the shears and I confess I trimmed them to clear it:
This is not to suggest that I would encourage the OP's suggestion!
Edited By ega on 24/04/2019 15:45:51
|Thread: Imperial Tube|
That problem with the title *might* be caused by an adblocker (if you are using one).
|Thread: Model Engineer's Handbook printing error|
Despite these apparent faults the book has an impressive printing history and I note that it is bound in "signatures", a sign of good quality, although the method does perhaps facilitate this kind of fault.
As a reference work, it seems possible that many will never notice or suffer from its omissions or duplications.
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