Here is a list of all the postings andy mulholland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 4 facet drill grinding|
likewise.. well impressed..
Edited By andy mulholland on 14/04/2022 17:30:57
yes I has thought that as well..they do need dressing.. thanks
I follow your instructions and they are similar to the instructions I have..but when it comes to setting the primary clearance of 10 degrees it also states that the table will most probably have to be elevated a few degrees..it states about 4 and a half degrees for a 10mm drill...that is in order to produce a correct secondary clearance..the exact angle is ascertained bt mak8nh sire the whole lip contacts the wheel over its full length..
I was producing triangular faucets on the primary before I read the instructions but still feel it's a bit fiddly compared to the basic jig and bench grinder method I have been using..
The jig I have made employs a shallow V and a setting pin to locate the drill and cater for the 180 degree rotation..
Thats a possibility and a difference in the way the drill is set up...depending on what jig I'm using..the Harold Hall jig requires the drill lips to be horizontal to the base of the jig...the worden instructions indicate the drill should have its flute lips at the 5 to the hour position....
That prompted my question of whether anyone had used the worden jig set up with the lips horizontal and using the engraved scale on the table to set the drill point angle rather than the angle set on the jig relative to the base to produce the point angle..
The only problem i found trying it that way was the jig can not be set at low angles relative to its base for the 10 degree clearance with larger drills due to the location of its back stop bar..
It's just using this method seems to me to be a bit more reliable in producing the primary clearance correctly compared with the basic instructions i have on using the worden jig..
The gig I'm using with the worden
Does anyone use the worden and the jig used with it to grind drill in this fashion..
I've been playing around with it and not getting results I can understand..my previous experience been with a bench grinder and the Harold Hall rest and gig he described.
It seemed to produce fair results....
Ill add photos if I can..
Using the jig with the worden was producing g a triangular shaped primary clearance...I later checked the notes that came with it and it said the table would have to be altered when grinding this primary clearance of 10 degrees..which I hadnt been doing ..but it seemed to be a furthur complication to using it that the simple set up I used before didn't include..
Has anyone modified the worden jig so that the scale on the table can be used to set the drill point angle rather than the angle of the gig...
And then use the gig angle to set the clearance angles...
|Thread: Sieg SX3 Z axis adjustment|
Hi.. sorry mike , I missed your post...and my thoughts would be its binding as you wind the head down because the gib is to tight or able to move fractionally because its not locked in place.....but that's just been my experience.. I dont think I've experienced the sticking problem if the gib strip was loosened off a little..
The only way you can know for sure is to keep playing with .. it is as I said a time consuming setting to get right..and as I said above if the head is geared when you are trying to adjust the jib clearance you loose the feel of what is going on..
I recently has an sx3 dismantled ti re install in the workshop.. I seem to remember asking on here how the jib actually worked ... the description above does cover it in terms of the two screws.. again I remember using light taps to try and settle the jib in place before locking it with the screws..
because I had the mill dismantled I pretty well set about the task with the mill head disconnected from its geared drive....so that the adjustment process was purely by gravity lifting the head manually and observing how it then dropped down... a right pain... but you loose the sensitivity of the adjustment with the gears in play.... quite often you only know its over adjusted when the head hangs on its slide on the backlash of the gears and then catches up with itself with a bit of a clunk... its certainly not as straight fwd as you would wish...
|Thread: sx3 mill again im afraid|
I have just caught up with the additional comments... all noted and the words of encouragement appreciated..
everything is back together now including the dro that was fitted... ive never had the luxury of such a system before and was surprised to see all the available functions.. it appears to be very clever. ...was getting a bit worried cause the instructions were a bit unclear in the translation but a few trips on the old you tube has helped a bit... I hope I can get to grips with it eventually...getting rather excited at the prospect of using the mill..
that was the first thought I had Jason , and Id like to think if I had run it on the pallet then I would have avoided all the grief and time ive spent looking for faults when logic was that it had to be the link I inserted..
a feeling of great relief but also one of total stupidity....
the thought of having to get that mill downstairs again was making me feel poorly
and sorry John I did see your points about providing the relevant information and posting pictures.... ill have to check on how to post pictures again ...but your points are noted for the next time ..
can I thank you both for the replies...
to say I feel like a right plonker would be putting it mildly... you are spot on about the chuck guard switch... inserting the link prevents the machine from starting... im getting to old and my brain just doesn't function logically any more..
im wondering if anyone can offer any pointers in how to identify my issue...
my mill arrived on a pallet and had to be transported to a 1st floor workshop..I didn't try and run it on the pallet but stripped it into parts to allow for the move..I took the opportunity to clean and oil the machine and re assembled it ...switched it on and it won't run...
in no electrician but the electrical disconnection points that enabled the dismantling were straight fwd connectors and plugs into boards so I felt confident enough... as a back up I took photographs and im happy its reconnected as it arrived... I did remove the chuck guard and microswitch...but briged that connection with a link..
when power is turned on the mains tell tail light illuminates.... the digital rpm display also lights and the emergency stop switch seems to function ..ie the digital display light does out till the emergency stop is reset....
ive disconnected the motor windings and done continuity checks between the 3 wires and get a consistent 2.4 ohms between the 3 pairs,,.no obvious circuit to earth on the windings when checked with a multimeter...
thats where I am... I know some on here are clued up on such things so if anyone knows of other checks I could do with basic equipment..ie multimeter id be grateful...
|Thread: sx3 mill head slide adjustment|
thanks for that Jason... that makes sense ... its in bits so that I can transport it to an upstairs workshop but ill have a play along the lines you suggest and see how it goes..
hi, im hoping someone can explain the mechanism for adjusting the jib strip ci the head of the above bench mill..
the x and y axis slides are the conventional slide adjustment on their dovetails, but the head jib strip has a screw at the bottom which appears to be for limiting its depth at where the jib strip sits , and a screw at the top which has a machined collar that locates in a cut out on the jib strip... I can not see how those screws alter jib strip clearance..
thanks in advance for any help..
|Thread: Lathe suds drain ideas|
similar idea on my Myford as mentioned above.. I fabricated a small steel tin which is clipped under the drain hole on the lathe stand..
the pipe that empties the tin is raised above the base , just like a weir, so all the debris that makes it to the tin is trapped and tin is emptied from time to time.. similar idea on the bench mill... works well..
thanks for the reply..
hi, I've been a subscriber to the mew magazine for a good few years and at one time am pretty sure I could view it online as well ..
its sometimes handy to have a look at an online issue while on the site if a particular topic is referred to..
anyway apparently I have to pay to do that now, and an e mail suggests that the digital issue will cost me £11.25 by direct debit.. I currently pay £10.50..
so my question is do I still receive a printed copy of the mag as well as been able to view it online for the £11.25 subscription..
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.