Here is a list of all the postings Alan Hopwood has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: North Yorkshire Logging In|
One from Ripon here.
|Thread: Toothe broke on lathe chuck|
Why not just phone Rotagrip, quote the number of the chuck and price up a replacement set of jaws. The hardened ones will be pricey, but get a quote on a soft jaw set and machine them to suit.
|Thread: Grub screws for 16” Colchester chuck|
Have you tried M/s Rotagrip for a quotation?
|Thread: Only for Myford lathes|
Could someone answer a little question on the Super 7? the one shown in the photograph is of the same vintage as the two 7's I have the use of, but I believe them to be Super 7's and not Super 7 B's. I understood that the B indicated that it had power cross feed, which the one shown (and mine) are not so equipped.
Am I right?
|Thread: Headstock Dividing Attachment from Hemingway|
One of the best things you can make. The number of times I've called on it for all sorts of graduating jobs etc. is quite remarkable. I even produced a vernier scale for the thimble of the GHT cross-slide dial. This meant that I could read in tenths of a thou and still work in 1/16ths of an inch .
|Thread: How much can a chuck effect finish?|
Risking being thought too simplistic, I have got into the habit of tightening all three stations of a three jaw before any cut. I also almost always wipe the contact edges of the jaws with my index finger before inserting the stock to be machined.
|Thread: Moving the Head on a Round Column Type Mill|
I also use a cheap DIY laser, but instead of using a pencil line I put up a strip of black tape on the wall of the workshop, put in a nail at the top of the strip, hung a piece of white string with a weight (big nut) at the bottom. Before moving the head up or down bring the laser light onto the sting when the light appears to floorese (sp?). Anyway, when you move the head, bring the head round to bring the light back onto the string and I think I'm near enough for farm work. We had a fair old discussion at the York Club about this, and although we never came to a definite answer to the degree of accuracy I could expect over the 12 feet or so of separation, it was thought that only changing for a knee type machine (which I couldn't afford) would affect any improvement.
|Thread: Dovetail technique|
GHT described cutting dovetails which stated that it is best not to cut the slope and the base at the same time, because of "cutter flutter". His recommendation was to lift the cutter off the base by about 5 to 10 thou for a very light finishing cut along the slope.
|Thread: NG10 blow gun Thread- any idea?|
Ian, Glad that the 3/8 British Standard Brass thread proved correct. I'm also please that you had a die (must try to remember that for the future). I suspect that the material, which you say is not Ali, will be Mazak which is a zinc based die casting alloy.
|Thread: Signing one's work|
As I mainly make tools, a name plate might not be suitable, but I do have a stamp of my Masonic Mark which I dab on the tool somewhere.
I can't claim to have made the punch, but one of my old drinking pals was an engraver (Holland & Holland is one of his customers) and he very kindly carved out a piece of silver steel for me which I then hardened and tempered.
|Thread: Anyone been to the Harrogate show yet ?|
Good day really. Mr Harrison bought me a drink, met an old school mate from Glasgow, bumped into Dave Fenner, Ivan Law, D.A.G. Brown plus a few more lads I know. Better not say too much about the spend, SWMBO may come across this message. All in all, a nice day. Still think it's the best show, but like all the others we could do with more of the trade attending. You can't beat handling what you may buy.
|Thread: Harrogate Exhibition|
A Mr B. Harrison has invited me to partake in strong drink at the bar on Saturday at 1pm. Now that should be a most unusual sight, an Englishman buying a Scot a drink.
|Thread: Choosing a bandsaw|
I've been trying to work out how old my Axminster bandsaw is. It's certainly 25 years old, if not a few more, and is still giving very good service. I have taken it from my workshop and now use it at work, and working it hard.
The stand is not great, but the design may have been improved by now. I buy the blades from MSC and have found that spending a few quid more on the Die Master blades saves money in the long run.
|Thread: No. 4501 The MEX Judges Reports|
I've read this thread with considerable interest, as most of my model engineering is based on making tools. I attended Sandown for the first time this year, and was a bit disappointed with the tooling section of the competition. I felt that there was a both a lack of numbers of entries, and a lack of complexity. Mind you, our own (Harrogate) exhibition has been very poorly supported by tooling of late.
As could be seen from my GHT display, I'm no exponent of the wet and dry school of finish. If it does the job required, and the edges don't cut the hands too often, then it's a good tool.
Poor old Neil Read is taking a bit of a kicking lately, what with the drill expert having a go about his inability to off hand grind a drill within tolerance, and then for, what I took to be reasonable comments, his critique of a milling vice.
|Thread: Tauco drill|
My thanks to the members who pointed me in the direction of suppliers of two and three quarter inch tubing. negotiations are progressing .
Many years ago (30+) my father and I obtained a pair of these drills from a factory in Dundee who were re-equiping.. Mine has been an absolute star all the way through, it even came with a 1/2" Albrecht chuck, but when I inherited father's I took it into work to be an additional drill. What I hadn't realised was that the pulley on the drilling spindle was in a metal which was rather like Mazak and which had become very brittle. I bit the bullet and tried to replicate the pulley, but this time in Dural. I even treated it to a new bearing. It does a great job, but I'm pleased that you can't see the table, as the factory workers had adorned it with the most picturesque chain drilling pattern .
One issue which I haven't resolved is the fact that the column has a dint which affects the ease of adjusting the table. I tried to order a piece of thick walled tube from the local steel supplier, but despite ordering 2.75in. tube I got 70mm. They, the suppliers, learned a few new words, but so far the imperial stuff hasn't been delivered, yet.
|Thread: Simple Digital Micrometer Repair|
I admire your patience in the quoted repairs, but can you tell me how to fix a proper digital micrometer! I have a Shardlow (sp?) digital mic. which must have got some cutting fluid in it which has made some of the numbers difficult to read. I'm a bit scared to attempt a strip down and am worried that some cleaning fluids may attack the mechanism. Any polite suggestions will be gratefully received.
|Thread: The Tool you cannot do without|
Near to the top of the essential list is the GHT type centre height gauges I've made for both the Myford S7 and the Harrison L15. The other most useful tool is the bog roll which lives on a handle of one of the machines. A sheet of that wipes away a lot of cr** from places where it gathers to obscure what I want to see.
|Thread: internal screw cutting|
Just cottened on to this thread (no pun intended), and this may be off the wall, but why not turn the threading tool upside down and cut the thread from in to out? Even if your'e cutting metric on imperial you can wind the saddle in to a stop, fidgett in the back-gear, put on the cut, and cut from left to right.Just remember old GHT's advice about holding the saddle back as the tool pops out of cut.
Remember I'm a bit of a luddite, if it's not mechanical---I struggle.
|Thread: Headstock Oil - Auto transmission fluid.?|
Working for a John Deere dealership, I use their Hygard hydraulic and transmission oil in the lathe headstock (Harrison L15) and also in the various gearboxes on the Herbert V47 milling machine. Don't tell anyone, but I use Stihl chainsaw oil on the various slideways.
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