Here is a list of all the postings Johannes Grabsch has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Micro rivets|
You will find a Plier Tool that can be modified into a handy Rivetting Tool. I have used the standard plier as well as the tiny brother, to apply many, many rivets (copper and steel) into my models. The rivetformer you have to add decides the type and size of the rivet. Send me a PM if you need detalls
|Thread: from a 3.5 inch Gezina to 5 inch tramway Plettenberg locomotive|
Gratulation zu diesem vollen Erfolg. Es ist eine schöne und vorbildgerechte Lok geworden. Und wie bei Dir üblich, testest Du die Lok auch wie gehabt, genauso wie bei der Feuerwehr.
Nun weißt Du auch, wo ich jetzt häufig aktiv bin...
Alles Gute Johannes
|Thread: Etching Aluminium|
Look here Folks:
He says Lemon juice might work as well.
|Thread: Making Square Nuts, 4 mm Spanner, 3 mm high in 8BA or M2|
I'll continue with my own approach, making the Nuts from Square Section Rod. The diameter of the threaded rod is already fixed to 2 mm and I do not want to change that now. Your hint has been noted in my Tips&Tricks Database.
To come back to a serious discussion...
Yesterday evening and this morning I made together 63 such nuts - learning - using read and front toolposts with lathe cutters and a toolholder/turret in the tailstock. I learned that doing all operations in the lathe was too ambitious for me: The 4 x 4 steel profile easily bends if the profile sticks more than 3 times the width of nut plus cutoff-tool out of the collet. In the end I did the tapping at the bench.
For some historic models I need about 400 Square Nuts, Steel, with 4 mm Spannersize and 3 mm Height in 8BA or M2. These do ot seem to be available anywhere, or are they?
If I'll have to bite the bullet and make these myself (have a Myford S7, but not a Pultra Lathe, though)), what would be a clever method to produce alle these nuts?
Out of interest, I've asked a company in China for a quotation... The minimum volume was 5000 Nuts at 1100 USD, plus a possible import duty to the EU. Not really attractive...
|Thread: U-Profiles from Square Tubing|
My solution was a modification of a Parkside Angle Grinder Stand, that I once bought at Lidl's. I used a special made up wooden channel for the square tubes, a small angle grinder and a 1 mm cutting disk. As the pressure of the cutting disk is downwards and the tube cannot escape to the side, the cuts were surprisingly fast and straight. Actually on my first attempt, the tube almost shot through the thing, throwing sparks...
I have tried a Band Saw too, but this was bad for the blade. How many teeth/in. did you use? I have learnt that the size of the teeth should be smaller than the material thickness.
Yes it does. I now think the best approach is indeed to cut only slight grooves into both sides and to finisch the cut using a hand fret saw. The circular saw must be 2 mm thick otherwise it will flex and run out.
Is there maybe a company that could fold 14 mm channels from 1 mm material? Cheating ...
I am looking for the correct method to produce steel U-Profiles, I need 14 x 6 x 1 mm. I was trying to cut 14 x 14 mm square tubes with a thin circular saw on the milling machine. It is not easy to clamp the tube safely without excessive force, otherwise the tube will be bent. A circular saw will soon start to flex and the cutting line starts to wander.
What is the correct method?
|Thread: Miniature Hand Rivet Squeezer suppliers|
Modify a Knipex plier...
You need to drill the jaws, the formers are simple turning jobs. Some common sizes I did harden.
|Thread: workshop removal abroad|
We have moved from Leeds to the Netherlands 2 years ago, with almost all my Workshop things, and the complete household.
In my experience some thoughts are important:
Check that the moving company has a proper insurance. Prepare a MANIFEST, listing all items of value for insurance purposes - make many photos.
Make sure that the moving company has some proper lifting equipment for heavy machinery. Be present and vigilant when the loading happens! Make sure that a lathe is NOT lifted or pulled by grabbing at the leadscrew and the NOTHING HEAVY is loaded ontop of it.
Check regulations what may be illegal on a ferry: No combustible liquids or gases, no spray cans, no paints or thinners.
I packed all tools and materials into sturdy wooden boxes. The boxes were made from packaging for large glas panes - I got these free of charge from a company producing windows. Plastic crates are useless for workshop stuff.
For my 5 locos I had already made special transport boxes.
Make pictures of all importand things while packing.
Remove any electric cables in the workshop not needed any longer.
Before you leave make pictures of the empty and cleaned workshop. You will wonder how all that stuff fitted into this tiny area. Also, pictures are a nice documentation to prove to the new owners/inhabitants later, that you did not leave any nasty stuff behind.
Be at the new location BEFORE the truck arrives.
Make sure that you have a plan, where and in what order you need to transport the machinery into the new workshop. MAKE A PLAN.
Have the electricity cables for the power of machines in place BEFORE you arrive with the truck.
Be sure that the floor in the new workshop is solid enough and prepared to move heavy things around.
Be sure that the driveway is wide enough so that the moving truck can go as close as possible to the workshop. Talk to your new neighbors - unloading can take LONG and the road may be blocked.
Have an alarm system installed and working in the new workshop from day 1.
And, if you are working for a big company and you are being transferred, see that the company insures and pays the whole relocation - all costs, insurance etc. Or make a deal with the company that they do it FOR you. Their turms and conditions are better then yours as a private person.
Be prepared for some stress...
|Thread: Defunct Hard drives|
Please note that recycling of modern Electronic Divices can have NASTY sideeffects.
Modern materials can contain exotic substances and elements that are carcinogenic.
The worst thing you can do is to scrap a microwave oven...
Rather long article.
|Thread: 1/4 " Thinwalled Stainless Steel Tubing|
Forgot to say: 20 g
Can anybody please name a supplier of 1/4 " Thinwalled Stainless Steel Tubing?
I am looking for 4 pieces 800 or 1000 mm long, to be used in making Superheaters.
|Thread: Best Material for Draincock-Linkage|
I may not be clear enough. This is what I ment
Over time the linkages to the draincock valves of my locos become sloppy, as the holes in the links at the joint become larger or oval. There is normally not enough 'flesh' to uses bushes, so I am looking for alternatives. Is there a better material than mild steel? Or what other options are there?
|Thread: Outer shape of Cylinders|
If one would create the cylinders of a loco from block-material and having the bore completed - what is a smart way to make two edges of the block 'round' using common machinery in an average workshop?
|Thread: Imperial threads on a Metric Myford S7|
I checked my S7 and it turns out that the leadscrew is indeed 8tpi (almost an imperial lathe in disguise).
Now it is all clear to me how to proceeds.
This question is usually asked "the other way around".
I am using a Metric Myford S7 with gearbox. I do have all the normal change gear wheels plus a 127 teeth wheel. Is there anywhere an instruction how to cut Imperial threads on a Metric Myford S7 with gearbox?
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