Here is a list of all the postings Martin Kyte has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
You could make a George Thomas Pillar tool which will hold the punches for you, see Hemmingway kits or Georges Book for details. Or you could make a rivetting pliers in the form of a hand held toogle press.
|Thread: Floor Paint|
Our Lab mechanical workshop has solid oak flooring and it looks magnificent.
|Thread: Drilling brass.|
You have clearly not understood the process, or so it seems. The material is removed from the face of the drill (inside the flute) which alters the rake. As I said I use a diamond credit card slip to achieve this and obtain a sharp drill with the same rake as a straight flute brass drill. I do agree with you that blunting the drill doesn't really get you where you want to go. I also agree that brass drills and slow spiral drills designed to cut these materials are the ideal. For my clockmaking though which is generally dealing with holes below 6mm I have a set of drills modified for brass as I have described and as they work well for me is cheaper than buying a complete set of specials.
Another vote for stoning the cutting edges. I do mine with an extra fine diamond slip (credit card size) with zero rake. Essentially straight along the length of the drill. However D A G Brown, famous for drill sharpening demonstrations at shows with the Quorn maintains that a correctly and very sharp 4 facet drill can be used on brass with no problems. My take on this is with a sharp drill less pressure is required in order to start a cut and so the depth of cut is smaller. In consequence the first facet is able to control the cut. I suspect that when the self infeed force gets bigger the controlling effect of the first facet has reached it's limit and is overcome and the drill is pulled into the work.
The self feed effect is much more pronounced on breakthrough when drilling brass and sometimes aluminium so care should be taken. For holes in sheet where I am not too fussed about getting the position of the hole to any high degree of precision I generally drill a small pilot hole and then follow up to final size by drilling half throgh the sheet, turning over and through drilling from the other side. This avoids the breakthrough 'grab' and also any tendency to create burrs on the exit side creating a good sharp edged hole. This is especially usefull in aluminium and in dural no deburring at all is required. For brass the point is more to avoid grab even with a stoned drill.
Brass drills used to be produced having straight flutes which when you think about it is exactly what you produde when you stone the cutting lips.
|Thread: Shortening Screws|
Jewelers piercing saw is the way to go for smaller sizes, no burr to speak of and looks quite tidy.
|Thread: Mystery reamer - what is it?|
We have a set in the electronics workshop at the Lab, left over from the old days. We used them for deburring large holes in panels. There are a number of shallower angle versions which even now get used for enlarging panel holes.
Sounds like a good argument to buy a showmans engine. Steam heating for the house, has it's own generator and available for transport when needed. Drawback is cost. Our mechanical workshop's apprentice's family just bought one for a touch over a million quid. Looks lovely though.
|Thread: Recoil escapement - very variable time keeping|
I think you are seeing the expected error in rate comensurate with the variation in torque over the spring wind as has been said already. However 3 mins on the first day is excessive and so I think the pendulum design is not helping matters. What I think is going on is the 'compound pendulum' is more sensitive to amplitude than a simple pendulum with a rigid rod especially at high amplitudes. No idea how to model it.
Better attention to winding control will help. Clock springs are much more constant when operated in the 'middle' part of the winding so choosing a spring with extra length and limiting the wind to eliminate the full wound and fully unwound state helps enormously. This is why most fuzee clock have stopwork. you could do it manually bu counting turns.
|Thread: Etch Primer life|
One year if I remember correctly.
|Thread: How to profile a bum shaped depression in a 5"G drivers tip-up seat|
You need one of these.
Trouble is they are are out of stock at the moment.
However now you have got the idea you could make one.
Edited By Martin Kyte on 06/12/2021 20:28:25
|Thread: cutting spur gears on a mill|
Ah, that would explain it.
Free cutting Mild Steel is a little soft for a pinion don't you think especially as it seems the same thickness as the wheel. Maybe this was just a demo piece?
|Thread: Drilling and filling of the Dental kind.|
Looking at it from a different angle. What are you prepared to pay for functioning teeth. We spend thousands so we can machine metal, so what would we pay to be able to eat.
|Thread: sx3 mill again im afraid|
Don't be so hard on yourself. My standard proceedure when designing safety cut-outs is to make them open circuit fail. Making the circuit enables the system. If you design the other way about as it appears on your machine then if the microswitch fails or the wires break the motor will still run which is about as usefull as a chocolate tea pot.
Our paper delivery bloke has one like that. Strong Spring Brush etc, and it irritates me every time I pay our paper bill. So Much so that I always ensure that the envelope the cheque is in gets screwed up into a nice tight ball. Not sure he will ever get the message. He also has the cold caller clear off and don't return notice posted on the door too.
|Thread: Welding Cast Iron|
If that is a Stanley No 78 then there are some interesting comments here.
Including the expectation of Brazed repairs exactly where yours broke.
|Thread: Is Model Engineering "green"?|
The Carbon exhaled comes from grown food, grown food has drwn down carbon from the atmosphere so you are merely completing the cycle. Properly grown food also makes soil which also locks up atmospheric carbon. The cycle breaks when artificlal fertiliser are used which add fossil carbon and don't do much for the soil. Thats why diet and agriculture are key to changing the carbon footprint.
Well said SOD.
Is China to blame for the emissions caused by manufacturing your new lathe or are you.? It's everyones problem and we should all be part of the solution.
|Thread: Workshop disposal|
You do have to consider things from the buyers point of view.
1. The dealer. They have to clear and collect everything including stuff they don't want. All their time is costed and they then have to sell at a higher price to make a profit/living. The advantages to the seller being it's quick and easy which has some value in itself.
2. The club. Generally msot people are well set up aready and unless there is a specific item someone is desperate for a transaction will only take place if items are bargins. Sometimes it's nice to know were things went and that they are being enjoyed.
3. eBay. Massive amount of work but probably the route to realising the maximum return.
|Thread: Filing Technique|
Personally I think the most important thing is can you begin the stroke at the same angle consistantly. I find that lifting the file on the back stroke slows me down and I get more consistant results. Each stroke being more deliberate. I do however spend most of my filing time creating particular shapes or flats rather than shifting a lot of metal.
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