Here is a list of all the postings Martin Kyte has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
If you are a driver and need glasses for it you may well be driving illegally. I hope they are just for reading.
Edited By Martin Kyte on 10/07/2020 13:13:52
|Thread: I'm thinking of selling up, whats it worth?|
If you can avoid it don't sell it. It will cost you a lot more in the long run. You will benifit from the stamp duty cut too.
|Thread: Unkown plastic|
Second vote for Polycarbonate.
|Thread: Butterfly Bolt or Thumb Screw|
I would suggest you make a key. Retain the cap heads and make a key similar to a clock key with a suitable sized piece of hex from a cut down allen key driven into the pipe. Create a suitable holder on the saw for the key. A block with a hole in would be the simplest. You can make the key as wide as you like for ease and as long as you like for access.
Edited By Martin Kyte on 05/07/2020 16:43:03
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
If they get as far as being asked to an interview they have the qualifications for the job. The interview seeks to find out what they are like as a person.We were looking for an instrument service engineer once. Short listed 4 out of around dozen. One of the practical things we did was put a 13Amp plug on the table along with a screwdriver and ask thenm what they made of that. One and only one picked up the screwdriver and took the plug to bits. He got the job. They all knew about electrical safety but that guy was confident enough to be curious.
|Thread: Parvalux motor|
One piece of advice is just ask the question you want to have answered. Like I need a 24 DC supply at around 5 Amps. That way you won't get everyone and his dog second guessing what your motor is.
|Thread: Aircraft General Discussion|
Heads up (literally) 5th July Spitfire flight Cambridgeshire.
|Thread: Cutting brass with saw questions|
You would think that but no.
The point being that the SX1 was converted to use a hight speed engraving head. Somewhere north of 20,000 RPM.
This drives router cutters which are more like rotary burrs than end mills and produce a very clean cut and something like dust rather than brass swarf. 1mm cutters means there is only the smallest of material to remove from the corners and the cut quickly. I think that where most people struggle is using CNC mills running at slower speeds with conventional tooling. Cutting forces are higher and it is more difficult to hold the work down.
My post were in answer to the original question asking for tips on hand sawing.
However as there has been some comments regarding more modern methodologies I make the following comments.
Hand fretting is quick to get going. All you need is the frame some blades and a sawing board plus a little practice and a good eye.
Full blown CNC involves a lot of development in terms of acquiring appropriate workshop machines and set up's and is certainly worth while if you wish to make clocks in batches and in reasonable numbers. One offs and ocasional clocks you may question the outlay in cash and time.
My late freind Chris Sangster spent some years developing his approach to clockmaking. I guess it really sprang from a combination of disliking the process of crossing out, a desire to produce small runs of 3 or 4 clocks at a time, and an interest in the then 'new' approach of CNC in the home workshop.
Initially Chris, who was a draughsman by profession, started to use a rotary table on his Myford VME mill to mechanise the process of crossing wheels. With the wheel drawn out and co-ordinates established this worked reasonably well. At least sufficiently well for him to feel it was preferable to hand sawing. The filing and finishing still had to be done though.
The next move was to 'CNC' a Seig SX1 with the addition of steppers and replacing the head with an engraving spindle fast enough to drive 1mm router cutters. Software was from a free download developed by another clock maker who's name is now lost (at least to me) Blanks were held with double sided tape and the setup produced wheels with very little filing required except nicking out the corners.
Eventually the Myford headstock dividing head was motorised along with the leadscrew of the lathe and with the overhead drive automatic tooth cutting was achieved. The final move was planned to be a flatbed router capable of engraving faces and chapter rings which was sadly uncompleted at the point of his untimely death.
All in all I would say this was at least a 15 year process in development. Now I'm sure things could be done far quicker than that but realistically 18 months is not unreasonable and you are going to require at least 2 or three grand starting from scratch.
So to finish, you can do anything from Hand cut to CNC and all ports between but the more complex you go the more you have to invest in your workshop kit, and your time and money. Think about what suits you.
I personally find hand sawing faster than the scroll saw, certainly less broken blades. I think that's what John Wilding found too. Most of my suggestions were from him and his books, confirmed by my own practice.
Regarding standing it's easier to change position slightly when you need toand cutting curves you need to. Your back stays straight too which saves the enevitable ache. All you have to do is get the hight of the cutting block right and you can put yourself in exactly the right position just by moving your feet. You cannot do that on a chair.
The other advantage is you use the whole length of the piercing saw blades and you have paid for ALL the teeth.
A few suggestions.
Saw standing up.
If you have a pillar drill with an adjustable table set the table at chest hight. Create a cutting board from flat, reasonably thick oblong of ply with a narrow V cut in it. Clamp or bolt the cutting board to the drilling table.
The wheel can be held on the board with the fingers and sawn on the downstroke.
This arrangement puts the work quite close to the eye so giving good vision of the cut whilst an upright standing stance is very comfortable.
Good lighting can be arranged with a suitable angle poise lamp or LED on a stalk.
As the work eye distance is around 10 to 12 inches headband magnifiers or orther optical aid may be used to advantage.
With a little practice you will find you can saw very close to the line to leave very little filing to do.
Saw into corners and back out. Come back into corners from a different direction to create sharp corners.
Make sure you have a good range of needle files and crossing files of good quality and do not shy away from grinding safe edges to create the right shape file for you particular wheel.
Finish of with burnishers.
Hope that helps.
|Thread: Exploding Grinding Wheel|
If you do wish to use the side then:-
Dressing the stone at a 10 degree or so oblique ange on the side creates a flat and true area to use whilst avoiding any chance of grooving or thinning the body of the stone.
|Thread: Ring rollers|
I've just recently made a set of George Thomas' bending rolls. Works well. Certainly a good point to start. Do you actually mean a ring roller as in 'for bending bar stock into rings' or a sheet roll for making tubes? George's design is really for tubes and can be made geared or ungeared. Rolls can be grooved to take angle or T section. You could shorten the design and rescale to make a ring rollerwhich are shorter, more compact and really do need to be geared.
|Thread: Cross drill attachment - Super 7|
|Thread: The cost of cheap (Free) materials|
Totally agree with that. I have allways maintained that the primary product of the workshop is enjoyment. Some get that from making something out of nothing, others like building up the workshop and still others really just want to get the model done. All pockets all ages. I guess my point was, just now and again it's good to re-evaluate practices and habits so we don't get stuck in a groove. I'm sure I 'made do' long after I didn't have too.
|Thread: Change to the Code of Conduct|
|Thread: The cost of cheap (Free) materials|
Some interesting comments. I'm particularly bad at storing excess wood which is a dreadfull eater of space. It's all about balance really. I think we all suffer from old habits which suited our purpose once but as time change tend to hang around. As far as time rich, well yes I guess I am time rich as I'm semi-retired but I'm also cash rich too compared to years ago. However when I think ahead maybe I'm not so time rich as I might think. There certainly is 20 years less time left than 20 years ago. My mate died suddenly recently and he thought he was time rich too.
Just a curious question really. It's me that is curious not the question. Do people find that it ends up as false economy working from scrapyard chuck outs, bin ends and other assorted size materials or is it really worth it. as opposed to close to size parent material of known composition. I frequently read of members here spending ages wrestling with large lumps of steel etc on smallish machines just carving out a blank to actually set to and machine a componant. Fair play to them and it may be heroic and all but are you spending too much time just cutting stuff up instead of actually making parts. With the internet and delivery times making correct sized material available almost next day is it really worth the hastle of reducing that peice of 2 inch by 1 inch bar down to 2 1/4" x 7/8" before you even start on the job let alone the time spent and the wear on sawblades/ milling cutters etc. I used to do all this but managed (largely) to kick the habit and I find I not only get more done but there is more of the enjoyable bits compared to the hard work.
I'm sure a lot of it is just habit. I wonder what others think.
Edited By Martin Kyte on 22/06/2020 15:51:34
|Thread: Weeds in a 'lawn'|
A few comments.
Plants compete so healthy vigorous grass holds it's own better against weeds. Feed it.
Most plants with grass as an exception don't like to be cut back on a regular basis, so mow often.
Don't scalp your lawn, it helps with dry weather.
Don't rake moss, it justs speads it around.
Use weed and feed regularly.
Once you have got things under control, don't stop what you are doing.
Deal with ants nests.
Very regular mowing surpresses most weeds and PERSISTANT application of weed and feed will eventually eradicate the rest. There are no short cuts.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.