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Member postings for Martin Kyte

Here is a list of all the postings Martin Kyte has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: optivisor
10/07/2020 13:13:02
Posted by Cornish Jack on 10/07/2020 12:23:48:

Some of us may recollect a (Panorama?) TV programme coverfing the 'rip-off' operations of Britain's spectacle industry before they became 'optometrists' It was a total racket!. The mark-ups on standard reading glasses were ridiculous and 'specials' were beyond belief. A specialist eye surgeon from Moorfields was asked where he bought his glasses - " Morocco (or similar) at £1.85" One pays one's money and makes one's choices. My only prescription glasses were produced after 3 attempts by an R.A.F. employed, Harley Street 'specialist', the final pair of 'half-eyes' being made up to a 'prescription', copied from my Hong Kong sourced similar, which cost £1.30. That was 35 years ago, so I suppose another visit might be worth considering.

If you are a driver and need glasses for it you may well be driving illegally. I hope they are just for reading.

regards Martin

Edited By Martin Kyte on 10/07/2020 13:13:52

Thread: I'm thinking of selling up, whats it worth?
10/07/2020 12:20:51

If you can avoid it don't sell it. It will cost you a lot more in the long run. You will benifit from the stamp duty cut too.

regards Martin

Thread: Unkown plastic
08/07/2020 19:55:47

Second vote for Polycarbonate.

regards Martin

Thread: Butterfly Bolt or Thumb Screw
05/07/2020 16:41:35

I would suggest you make a key. Retain the cap heads and make a key similar to a clock key with a suitable sized piece of hex from a cut down allen key driven into the pipe. Create a suitable holder on the saw for the key. A block with a hole in would be the simplest. You can make the key as wide as you like for ease and as long as you like for access.

regards Martin

Edited By Martin Kyte on 05/07/2020 16:43:03

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020
04/07/2020 18:01:17

If they get as far as being asked to an interview they have the qualifications for the job. The interview seeks to find out what they are like as a person.We were looking for an instrument service engineer once. Short listed 4 out of around dozen. One of the practical things we did was put a 13Amp plug on the table along with a screwdriver and ask thenm what they made of that. One and only one picked up the screwdriver and took the plug to bits. He got the job. They all knew about electrical safety but that guy was confident enough to be curious.

regards Martin

Thread: Parvalux motor
04/07/2020 14:05:39

One piece of advice is just ask the question you want to have answered. Like I need a 24 DC supply at around 5 Amps. That way you won't get everyone and his dog second guessing what your motor is.

;O)

Martin

Thread: Aircraft General Discussion
03/07/2020 13:51:40

Heads up (literally) 5th July Spitfire flight Cambridgeshire.

**LINK**

regards Martin

Thread: Cutting brass with saw questions
03/07/2020 12:19:38
Posted by Chris TickTock on 03/07/2020 08:30:00:also a factor...don't know but guess it will be.

martin what i did get from your post was the 1mm cut out for the crossing out removal. I have been wondering what is the optimal diameter for this and in theory a smaller end mill will cut quicker. At 1mm there may well be break risks but I certainly intend to use a range to get the best results.

Chris

You would think that but no.

The point being that the SX1 was converted to use a hight speed engraving head. Somewhere north of 20,000 RPM.

This drives router cutters which are more like rotary burrs than end mills and produce a very clean cut and something like dust rather than brass swarf. 1mm cutters means there is only the smallest of material to remove from the corners and the cut quickly. I think that where most people struggle is using CNC mills running at slower speeds with conventional tooling. Cutting forces are higher and it is more difficult to hold the work down.

regards Martin

02/07/2020 22:29:07

My post were in answer to the original question asking for tips on hand sawing.

However as there has been some comments regarding more modern methodologies I make the following comments.

Hand fretting is quick to get going. All you need is the frame some blades and a sawing board plus a little practice and a good eye.

Full blown CNC involves a lot of development in terms of acquiring appropriate workshop machines and set up's and is certainly worth while if you wish to make clocks in batches and in reasonable numbers. One offs and ocasional clocks you may question the outlay in cash and time.

My late freind Chris Sangster spent some years developing his approach to clockmaking. I guess it really sprang from a combination of disliking the process of crossing out, a desire to produce small runs of 3 or 4 clocks at a time, and an interest in the then 'new' approach of CNC in the home workshop.

Initially Chris, who was a draughsman by profession, started to use a rotary table on his Myford VME mill to mechanise the process of crossing wheels. With the wheel drawn out and co-ordinates established this worked reasonably well. At least sufficiently well for him to feel it was preferable to hand sawing. The filing and finishing still had to be done though.

The next move was to 'CNC' a Seig SX1 with the addition of steppers and replacing the head with an engraving spindle fast enough to drive 1mm router cutters. Software was from a free download developed by another clock maker who's name is now lost (at least to me) Blanks were held with double sided tape and the setup produced wheels with very little filing required except nicking out the corners.

Eventually the Myford headstock dividing head was motorised along with the leadscrew of the lathe and with the overhead drive automatic tooth cutting was achieved. The final move was planned to be a flatbed router capable of engraving faces and chapter rings which was sadly uncompleted at the point of his untimely death.

All in all I would say this was at least a 15 year process in development. Now I'm sure things could be done far quicker than that but realistically 18 months is not unreasonable and you are going to require at least 2 or three grand starting from scratch.

So to finish, you can do anything from Hand cut to CNC and all ports between but the more complex you go the more you have to invest in your workshop kit, and your time and money. Think about what suits you.

regards Martin

02/07/2020 18:44:28

Hi Chris

I personally find hand sawing faster than the scroll saw, certainly less broken blades. I think that's what John Wilding found too. Most of my suggestions were from him and his books, confirmed by my own practice.

Regarding standing it's easier to change position slightly when you need toand cutting curves you need to. Your back stays straight too which saves the enevitable ache. All you have to do is get the hight of the cutting block right and you can put yourself in exactly the right position just by moving your feet. You cannot do that on a chair.

The other advantage is you use the whole length of the piercing saw blades and you have paid for ALL the teeth.

regards Martin

02/07/2020 17:20:57

A few suggestions.

Saw standing up.

If you have a pillar drill with an adjustable table set the table at chest hight. Create a cutting board from flat, reasonably thick oblong of ply with a narrow V cut in it. Clamp or bolt the cutting board to the drilling table.

The wheel can be held on the board with the fingers and sawn on the downstroke.

This arrangement puts the work quite close to the eye so giving good vision of the cut whilst an upright standing stance is very comfortable.

Good lighting can be arranged with a suitable angle poise lamp or LED on a stalk.

As the work eye distance is around 10 to 12 inches headband magnifiers or orther optical aid may be used to advantage.

With a little practice you will find you can saw very close to the line to leave very little filing to do.

Saw into corners and back out. Come back into corners from a different direction to create sharp corners.

Make sure you have a good range of needle files and crossing files of good quality and do not shy away from grinding safe edges to create the right shape file for you particular wheel.

Finish of with burnishers.

Hope that helps.

regards Martin

Thread: Exploding Grinding Wheel
30/06/2020 08:47:19

If you do wish to use the side then:-

Dressing the stone at a 10 degree or so oblique ange on the side creates a flat and true area to use whilst avoiding any chance of grooving or thinning the body of the stone.

regards Martin

Thread: Ring rollers
26/06/2020 06:10:29

I've just recently made a set of George Thomas' bending rolls. Works well. Certainly a good point to start. Do you actually mean a ring roller as in 'for bending bar stock into rings' or a sheet roll for making tubes? George's design is really for tubes and can be made geared or ungeared. Rolls can be grooved to take angle or T section. You could shorten the design and rescale to make a ring rollerwhich are shorter, more compact and really do need to be geared.

regards Martin

Thread: Cross drill attachment - Super 7
23/06/2020 10:34:36
Posted by not done it yet on 22/06/2020 19:07:31:

You are correct. Up to 120 volts DC - provided it is ripple free. I am surprised at that as DC, if it is nasty enough to give you a jolt, is likely to cause muscle contraction, preventing one from letting go of anything that is grasped. Would you guarantee that voltage is fully smoothed?

Edited By not done it yet on 22/06/2020 19:08:24

Why?

Martin

Thread: The cost of cheap (Free) materials
22/06/2020 20:37:07
Posted by Ady1 on 22/06/2020 20:14:14:

It's about what floats your boat really

Totally agree with that. I have allways maintained that the primary product of the workshop is enjoyment. Some get that from making something out of nothing, others like building up the workshop and still others really just want to get the model done. All pockets all ages. I guess my point was, just now and again it's good to re-evaluate practices and habits so we don't get stuck in a groove. I'm sure I 'made do' long after I didn't have too.

regards Martin

Thread: Change to the Code of Conduct
22/06/2020 20:11:22

Sounds reasonable.

Martin

Thread: The cost of cheap (Free) materials
22/06/2020 18:49:44

Some interesting comments. I'm particularly bad at storing excess wood which is a dreadfull eater of space. It's all about balance really. I think we all suffer from old habits which suited our purpose once but as time change tend to hang around. As far as time rich, well yes I guess I am time rich as I'm semi-retired but I'm also cash rich too compared to years ago. However when I think ahead maybe I'm not so time rich as I might think. There certainly is 20 years less time left than 20 years ago. My mate died suddenly recently and he thought he was time rich too.

regards Martin

22/06/2020 15:51:14

Just a curious question really. It's me that is curious not the question. Do people find that it ends up as false economy working from scrapyard chuck outs, bin ends and other assorted size materials or is it really worth it. as opposed to close to size parent material of known composition. I frequently read of members here spending ages wrestling with large lumps of steel etc on smallish machines just carving out a blank to actually set to and machine a componant. Fair play to them and it may be heroic and all but are you spending too much time just cutting stuff up instead of actually making parts. With the internet and delivery times making correct sized material available almost next day is it really worth the hastle of reducing that peice of 2 inch by 1 inch bar down to 2 1/4" x 7/8" before you even start on the job let alone the time spent and the wear on sawblades/ milling cutters etc. I used to do all this but managed (largely) to kick the habit and I find I not only get more done but there is more of the enjoyable bits compared to the hard work.

I'm sure a lot of it is just habit. I wonder what others think.

regards Martin

Edited By Martin Kyte on 22/06/2020 15:51:34

Thread: Weeds in a 'lawn'
21/06/2020 13:09:28

A few comments.

Plants compete so healthy vigorous grass holds it's own better against weeds. Feed it.

Most plants with grass as an exception don't like to be cut back on a regular basis, so mow often.

Don't scalp your lawn, it helps with dry weather.

Don't rake moss, it justs speads it around.

Use weed and feed regularly.

Once you have got things under control, don't stop what you are doing.

Deal with ants nests.

Reseed regularly.

regards Martin

21/06/2020 11:30:07

Very regular mowing surpresses most weeds and PERSISTANT application of weed and feed will eventually eradicate the rest. There are no short cuts.

regards Martin

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