Here is a list of all the postings Martin Kyte has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Manual threading on the lathe - problems|
Whilst not a solution to your threading question, when making the piston and rod start with an oversized piston. Drill and tap for the rod. Make the rod and attach to the piston. Hold the rod in a collet and machine the outside of the piston. That way the piston and the rod have to be concentric.
|Thread: Gloves and machine tools - my stupidity.|
There are often 'hidden' improvers of safety too. If you insist on a visitor wearing safety gear they do not forget they are in a hazardous area.
I suspect the next generation will not be having this conversation, kids are very used to safety gear these days.
Sounds quite reasonable to me. It means that you can easily identify the clowns that are not familiar with the site.
|Thread: Heat Resistant Clear Material Needed...|
Yes. Sounds like mica to me.
|Thread: Super 7 Lathe Clutch, Countershaft or Pulley Wobble|
As you say the wobble still exists when the spindle is not rotating I would aggree with many here on bent countershaft.
If you want to set up your headstock bearings this is the way that Myford used to do it.
1. Power Down
2. Remove all belt tension.
3. Remove Chuck
4. Rotate RH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).
5. Rotate LH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).
Spindle should be completely free of front bush.
6.Loosen allen screw on collar at end of spindle.
7. Using the Allen key tighten collar as tight at it will go by hand.
Inner tapered roller races are now locked together with correct pre-load.
8. Back off LH collar one complete turn + a bit (top away from you)
9. Rocking the spindle by holding the spindle nose tighten the RH collar by hand (top away from you).
10. When you feel resistance to movement stop.
11. Collar should be just tight enough that spindle can just be moved by hand holding the nose.
12. Do up the LH collar by hand (top towards you).
You should still feel resistance when turning the spindle by the nose.
13. With the crescent wrench on the LH collar tap the end smartly with a 12oz hammer.
The spindle should move forwards by a couple of tenths and be completely free running.
14. With the lathe running slowly (lowest direct speed) put the oil gun in the front oil cup and pump until oil issues from the front bearing.
I would suspect badly set up headstock bearings. You can end up with the spindle running out if the rear bearings are not clamped together correctly.
The first thing I would do (as it's easiest) is disengage the headstock drive by flicking over the backgear drive key on the bull wheel but without engaging the back gear lever. This eliminates spindle rotation.Do you still get the wobble on the cluch pulley?
|Thread: Virtual Meet Ups|
Unfortunately I'm working Wednesday so I'm unfortunately unlikely to join in. Hope it all works well for the rest of you.
Do we have a date for a meet yet?
|Thread: Brushless motor question|
Does it have a screwed chuck? If so have you managed to spin the chuck off doing that?
I would have thought there was a chance of the spindle stopping (as you say in sub second range) and the chuck carrying on rotating.
|Thread: Case hardening a part with tapped holes.|
As Neil has said and seemed to be ignored if you drill and tap after carburising you end up with uncarburised threads which will not become hard when heat treated.
|Thread: Seen It All Now - Bah Humbug|
It also has a poulation density of 25 per square kilometer rather than 275 /km2 so you would expect a slower intrinsic infection rate without restrictions.
|Thread: For the astronomers|
Just thought I woud point out some interesting things our Astronomical Association has been putting out via zoom and YouTube during the enforced closure of live meetings. Once such is the moving of public observing nights fro outside on the observatory lawns to YouTube. See link to the website.
|Thread: Hacksaw blade orientation - your opinion please|
I don't think you can 'push' a blade in a frame. You can push and pull the frame but the blade will always be pulled by the end of the frame leading the cut. I think Nicholas said that above. Weather the blade cuts on the forward or reverse stroke is another matter. The saw geometry will determine if more force is exerted downwards on the forward or reverse stroke. (or indeed if it's symetrical). Basically is the crank offset above or below.
Bandsaws allways cut towards the driven wheel for obvious reasons.
|Thread: Useful MEW Table|
I have one of those behind my lathe.
Laminated onto Melamine facesd MDF and then sliced up to fit.
|Thread: Drawing Projections|
Perhaps there is an argument for a new unit then. The BSA (British Standard Allotment).
All the Allotments round here are the same size and people either have one two or a half etc.
|Thread: HELP in constructing 5 inch gauge points|
Didn't Martin Evans do a series on garden layouts one of which included points I seem to remember. Model Engineer Volume 223 somewhere either side of issue 4620 ish. I'll let you plough through the archive.
|Thread: Boat hull formula|
If you had something to use as a test tank you could rough out a hull from wood and test the displacement. You would also then have a test model to play around with to increase or decrease the displacement. Simple tank with an overflow to catch displaced water, then either weigh the water or measure the volume.
It could be done in CAD but if you don't hve the software, the old methods still work.
|Thread: Christmas Cracker Jokes .. and similar|
Wot bird dont make a nest.
Answer. The Cuckoo
'cos it live in a clock.
|Thread: edge finder speed|
I get the impression from reading that the ball ended edge finders were intended to be used by judging the point when the ball end ceased to move by eye. The flicking to one side technique seems to be a practice that has crept in over the years. When 'doing it by eye' slower speeds are a neccesity. The flick out technique requires the finder to have been pushed past centre to a small extent so a small error is always present for that method. My engineering gut feeling is that a faster speed when using flick out is advantageous on the basis that the device has a certain amount of friction and the faster rotation would increase the sdeways force a little couple with the action takes place more suddenly and gives less time to turn the handle that little bit more. In milling operations I cannot say it seems to matter too much, certainly not to the extent of getting something running truly in a lathe when much more prescision is required. I can't see it being much more accurate than fag paper methods, maybe even worse. Maybe someone fancies doing some experiments using dead stops and the like on a big machine with good DRO's.
|Thread: Problem slot milling in lathe|
My apologies. I should have read the post more closely but I was pre-disposed to think it was a slot being cut by the thread title. Absolutely unused slides should be locked.
If the shaft would fit I would be inclined to mount it vertically on an angle plate as a more rigid set up ideally cutting on the oposite side to the operator so cutting forces are towards the bed and the shaft is packed off the boring table at the correct hight. Lock the saddle and there is very little that can move. Depth is read directly off the cross slide micrometer. Vertical slides are not the most rigid of animals at the best of times.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.