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Member postings for Dennis Rayner

Here is a list of all the postings Dennis Rayner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Viewing archive on Android Tablet
18/01/2014 17:16:46

No problem on my Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1

Thread: Linked drive belts from RDG
13/09/2013 10:32:32

My experience 2 years on from fitting the linked belt is that it's a fair bit quieter than when first fitted but nowhere near as quiet as a proper V belt which is virtually silent. Tension needs to be fairly high but not to the point where I think it's excessive. Overall I'm very satisfied.

It's just so much more convenient to install then the V belt.

Thread: Stub Points
06/08/2013 11:23:25

I have built a couple of 5"/ 7¼" dual gauge points and now I need to build a third. I find them complicated to build and, while watching this video **LINK** , at about 9 minutes 25 seconds in I came across some stub points. They seem so much simpler that the conventional design. I wondered if anyone had any experience of them or could point me to any relevant information source? My application would be in my garden railway operating short wheelbase stock at low speed.

Dennis

Thread: point motors for model railways
13/07/2013 13:40:54

I have just completed a 7¼ " guage point motor using a remote door locking kit bought on ebay. I used the 4 actuators in parallel (mechanically) to get the necessary push. Runs off 12v with the advantage of remote contol available through the keyfobs supplied - all for about £25.

Previously I have used a windscreen wiper motor which has a worm drive to give more effective locking.

Dennis

Thread: Rust in CI Cylinders
28/02/2013 10:03:40

This is a note for Julian - I replied to a PM from you to me on this subject a week ago but it is still showing unread - I wondered if there was a system problem?

Regards
Dennis

20/02/2013 10:15:54

Thanks very much for that. I live on the south coast with lots of Chandlers around so I will look into it as well as the other suggestions.

Dennis

17/02/2013 18:44:42

Gentlemen,
Thank you for your various helpful replies and Julian for your kind comment on the loco. I have to tell you it is a VERY flattering photograph. I am very much an LBSC builder - NOT Duke of Edinburgh award!

I have today successfully released the piston that was seized - it was one side of the loco only and the bottom of the cylinder bore was rusted to about a 1" width showing where condensed water had laid. I am now reassembling.

As far as future lubrication on disposal is concerned I can access the steam chests via the blast pipe and each end of the cylinders via the cylinders. The question is which lubricant to use? I have searched the internet and found the minimum quantity of Shell Ensis is over £700! Do you know where I can buy a small quantity? As far as steam oil is concerned Richard, do you have an SAE for that which you use? Most of what I have seen is very viscous. John - when you say cutting oil, do you mean soluble oil or "suds"?

Sorry to have so many additional questions but I don't want a seizeup again and I'm looking for the best solution for my situation.

Regards Dennis.

16/02/2013 19:31:54

After 17 years I have just finished my 7¼" gauge Hunslet. When I came to phototograph it I found it would not move! I last steamed it very successfully 11 months ago and since then have been making all the platework and other bits and pieces. I have taken off the cylinder covers to see an appalling amount of rust in the bottom of CI cylinders. At the very least I am going to have to re-hone the bores but what did I do wrong?

The model lives in my garage which is unheated but has cavity walls and a bedroom above. The loco is not superheated and has hydrostatic lubrication which is clearly working as observed by the sight feed and the oil used. At the end of the last steamiing, I left the lubrication on for a few minutes hopefully flooding the cylinders with oil. Clearly that was not enough.

What is the best procedure to stop this happening again?

Desperate Dennis!

sn851726.jpg

Thread: Whistle problem
29/01/2013 11:35:26

I've opened up the passageways as much as I dare (which is not a lot as I said before) and I've lowered the bell more towards the annulus. The gap is now about about 1/4" (down from the 5/16 specified). The changes have made a significant improvement with the whistle (on air) working from 100 PSI down to 50 PSI. I think I'll refrain from any other changes until I've managed to try it on steam using the complete steam pipe run.

Many thanks.

Dennis

27/01/2013 14:34:01

Many thanks for the replies - I hope to try it on steam within a month but Youtube videos suggest it should perform reasonably well on air hence my concerns.

I have followed the drawings exactly. The whole thing is machined from 1" OD brass rod - the bell is bored out to 15/16" diam. and the base to 7/8"diam. The bell depth inside is 1¼" and it sits 5/16" above the base. The disc in the base is 13/16" so, sitting in a 7/8" hole, I calculate the annula area to be 0.336 sq in. Now we come to what is being suggested as the root of the problem. The passage through the whistle valve and into the base of the bell is 1/8" OD which is a cross section area of 0.050 sq in. (ie Just 15% of the annular area). Within the existing external shape I could open up the passage to 5/32" (=.076 sq in.) and increase the disc diam. to 27/32" giving an annular area of 0 .172". This would incease the ratio to 40%. Still way short of the 100% being recommended but do you think this would help? It all seems a classic example of being able to scale the externals but not the internals.

Regards Dennis

26/01/2013 17:31:40

I have just finished machining up the bell whistle for Elidir (the ¼ scale Hunslet from Reeves) and I am very disappointed with the result. I have read all the previous threads on this topic on this forum and looked at various Youtube videos and "whistle" websites. I've learnt a lot but these sources are all strong on "how to make" and a bit weak on "what to do if it doesn't work"

Basically, when testing on air, my whistle whistles reasonably OK at 100 psi but with some "whoosh". As the pressure goes down the whistle sound disappears at 70 psi to leave ONLY whoosh. One thing I have noticed is that the whistle valve needs to be fully depressed to get any whistle at all.

Any advice or comment would be very much appreciated

Dennis

Thread: Fitting Cab edging e.g. ½ round brass
23/10/2012 19:35:01

Thanks very much to both of you - massively helpful replies. I've already done a 9" length for the bunker using Jason's method whch has worked very well. I've now got to do 2 x 17" lengths for the cab itself and I may well try Jeff's method for these.

Thanks again.

Dennis

23/10/2012 11:03:24

I'm about to fit the edging to the cab of my 7¼ gauge Hunslet. The right size would seem to be about 3/16". If I use ½ round brass, how do I "balance" it on the 1/16" thick cab sides to solder it? Alternatively, I've taken a lot of photos of models of these locos and it seems that many people have used copper or brass tube split along it's length and slid over the cab sides. This seems a lot more appealing but how do I straighten a coil of tube and how do I hold it to use my vertical mill with a slitting saw to open it up?

Thread: Macc Models
04/05/2012 11:37:50

An update on my previous post - I ordered some fittings yesterday via the website at just after noon. The packet has just dropped on the mat 23 hours later. This has been typical of my experience of Macc Models over the last 6 months.

Dennis

03/05/2012 18:21:30

My experience with Macc Models has been very good over the last 6 months. ALL of my dealings have been using the website and emails. Today I had a small problem with an order I placed today. I tried to ring to resolve but got no reply. Reverted to emails and the problem was fixed very quickly. Could he have a problem with his phone?

Dennis

Thread: Handrail Stanchions
01/05/2012 13:54:59

I wondered if anyone was aware of a supplier who offers handrail stanchions suitable for 7¼" NG? (ie To hold a ¼" diameter rail) I've checked the suppliers I can think of and none seem to get anywhere near that size.

Thread: Bending without bending rolls
21/03/2012 19:52:24

Many thanks for the various suggestions. I eventually chain-drilled the 3½" hole and then bent it over the paint tin. I then released the big hole (which itself was nicely bent) and trued up the hole using a rotary sanding drum - worked a treat!

Many thanks

15/03/2012 19:52:21

I was sold the copper by an ME Trader because they didn't have the specified brass in stock. They told me that the only disadvantage of using copper instead of brass was that it was more susceptible to damage eg kinking. I have already lagged the boiler barrel with the same copper material, and painted it, with no obvious problems. I'd be interested to know what the potential problems are before I proceed any further. I should perhaps add that both the boiler and the firebox cladding are over 3/16" ceramic insulation.

15/03/2012 18:12:15

I am making the cladding (cleading?) for my loco. I have a piece of .020" copper 26" by 6" to wrap the firebox in a U shape. I don't have access to bending rolls so I intend to bend it over a suitably undersided paint tin. I need to put a 3½" hole in the middle to clear the manfold. If I put the hole in first I am worried that the copper might crease rather then bend? On the other hand, how could I make the hole after I've bent it?

Any suggestions as to the best way to proceed would be much appreciated.

Thread: Boxhill Terrier Build Notes
28/02/2012 21:48:22

Hi Bob

The thread identified by Barry is the one I was thinking of. Also, if you search for "Boxhill" in the thread titles for this forum you'll see several others.

I'll send you a private message when I have copied the articles.

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