Here is a list of all the postings Weary has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Steam Engine Number One|
First-off CuAlloys publish a very good guide to silver-soldering.
But, apart from that -> My suggestions:
Actually your work doesn't look too bad at all. You have plenty of heat, even too much, so simple refinement of technique should resolve the minor issues. The devil is in the detail!!
Your Flux: Looks serviceable tho' could be a bit thicker, maybe add a tiny amount of washing up liquid to it to assist 'wetting'. For the quantity that you have made I would get a tiny smear/drop on a pin and add that.
Your 'Work': Needs to be absolutely clean. I do a fair amount of silver-soldering of steel. I de-grease the parts thoroughly ('Gunk' or commercial cleaner from 'Screwfix' ) and then abrade the areas to be joined (wire-wool would be suitable in this case) to physically clean them and then immerse the parts or at-least areas to be soldered in dilute Brick-cleaner (10%) for ten minutes or so. Rinse clean in water, dry and apply flux promptly. Note that experts will tell you that these stages are not necessary, but I have found that oil contamination and to a lesser extent physical dirt can be a right pain and makes the flux work hard unnecessarily.
Heating: Do not 'pre-heat' or 'warm the job'. Get in there with the flame. It also looks to me that your flame is too close to the work. In the pic where 'everything' is glowing it appears to me that the flame could be moved back a little and you would be applying heat more efficiently.
The Work itself. Your creating of dimples on surfaces to be joined is a good idea. I would have soldered that job the other way up and placed it closer to the corner of the hearth. Try and get the area to be soldered off the base of the hearth, maybe using broken fire-brick, bits of 'scrap' etc. with as little contact with other material possible If the job was inverted then all the heat would have been going into the joint and you could get your flame further around the work for most efficient heating. The work would be rested 'upside down' to how you placed it across the corner of your hearth resting on the corners of the oblong section to reduce contact to the minimum. Looks to me like your oblong part used as 'base' didn't get hot-enough, hence lack of flow.
Was there space around your 'spigot' or was it a tight fit in the hole? Some clearance is required, tho' the solder you have flows like water at the right temperature.
If I had the work inverted I would have created a small champfer around the 'hole' to 'guide' the sliver-solder.
Soldering: Speed (and confidence!) is of the essence really. An option is to put a tiny piece of silver solder on the joint where you can see it before heating. Warm your solder-rod and dip in flux. Now heat the job...speedily. With that work inverted I would be heating the work with the flame angled from slightly below the joint focussing on the oblong part and rod to be soldered, moving the flame up and over the part occasionally....... your flux will bubble and clear, then your solder will melt; maybe into a tiny ball = you are near temperature... suddenly solder will flow. remove flame, add solder stick. Add heat if necessary..... Solder will flow to the hottest part whilst flux is still active. But note that there is no point whatsoever further heating the joint once the solder has flowed where you want it.
Job should be 'done'.
If the bubbling of the flux displaces the solder 'indicator' piece then allow the flux to dry before soldering.
Anyway, others will be along with other suggestions.
Edited By Weary on 20/05/2019 10:50:59
Edited By Weary on 20/05/2019 10:55:19
Edited By Weary on 20/05/2019 10:56:56
|Thread: Loco hand pump casting from Reeves|
I had assumed that one makes two fundamentally similar pumps.
One fitted between the locomotive frames driven from an eccentric on a driven axle, hence no need for 'anchor links'. This pump to be secured to some kind of cross-brace/frame-stay using six 6BA fasteners through the end-plate. No need for 'foot'.
The second pump to be fitted in the tender and operated by hand as required ( "Emergency Hand Pump" ). This pump to be secured using 'foot' perhaps; or maybe to a bulkhead in the tender using the same fastening method as on loco. If secured by 'foot' then a flat plate over the end secured using fasteners through the 6BA holes will do the job.
Unfortunately the notes which might clarify a little are partially obscured.
Maybe worth asking over on MECH which is more loco' oriented and has a couple of active builders of Don Young designs?
Edited By Weary on 20/05/2019 09:07:47
The drawing looks as if it shows a foot to the pump. It is partially obscured by the positioning of the steel ruler. Casting looks as if it will do the job as required by the drawing provided overall dimensions are sufficient.
|Thread: French model Engineers|
Thanks for the prompt feedback.
Mr Harris, tried the 'Inscription' link that you gave me just now.... it tells me that someone with my details already has registered - fair enough, I have tried to join - but then when I try and log-in using the same details I am told that my account/application awaits activation. So, I'll just have to be patient and keep emailing their general 'info' email address every couple of weeks asking someone to please activate my application.
I'm not located in France, so, dropping in on a meeting, probably somewhat menacingly from their point of view( !), is not an 'easy' option.
Ho-hum. I'll just remain sanguine and patient.
Thank-you again for the suggestions. I console myself with the thought that the French modellers are too busy 'making' and 'playing' to faff about with forums.
I have been trying to join two French model/engineering forums without success for some time.
cav-escarbille moderators simply ignore my request to join despite follow-up emails to the 'general enquiry' email address asking them to please authorise my application.
forum-train.fr won't allow me to apply as it tells me that my email address is 'fake'. Of course the email I am using is correct, and I even set up a yahoo email to try and get my email accepted so that I can complete application. Still no success. Unable to contact moderators as it seems that one has to be a member to do so.
So, stymied on both fronts. Does anyone have any suggestions how to overcome these hindrances or perhaps knows of a French model (engineer) site that might be prepared to accept me?
My objective in joining is to seek clarification over some questions that I have about French Crampton locomotives.
|Thread: 1959 Nsu quickly|
Seem to be quite a few on ebay.de
There seem to be some variations, so maybe have a browse and see if they have the exact style that you are looking for?
|Thread: Cheap DRO for Mill|
Re: Magnetic Tape Encoder Strip.
Does anyone have any experience of using self-adhesive magnetic tape encoder strip? I ask as it seems the least bulky option as regards magnetic encoders/readers, and some of the encoder/reader combinations seem relatively bulky, especially direct from China.
Obvious main interest is how the self adhesive strip might stand-up to the rigours of a somewhat brutal home-workshop.
Edited By Weary on 25/04/2019 09:44:35
|Thread: Machining a long part|
As stated above depends what you are machining, accuracy required, shape before and after machining, etc..
But, as a generalisation, what about some variation of:
Position one end of work conveniently for machining.
Machine as required.
Bolt a fixed block to the table hard against end or some similar feature(s). Add more blocks as required against work-piece to define position.
Remove work-piece and change end for end butting un-machined end or features against your fixed blocks.
Remove 'datum' blocks.
Machine to same settings as first end.
btw Nice steam-punk avatar!
|Thread: Please help machining|
In the absence of manufacturing a bespoke part (although I see that plasma has PMed you, so perhaps you are 'sorted' , & developing the suggestion of modifying or adapting sewing-needles:
Sewing needles (for wool) are commonly available up to 3.75mm diameter. See here for example. though they do not usually have a groove or channel cut in them. I dare-say that larger diameters are available from specialists.
Are these anything near to being suitable for modification perhaps?
Knitting needles 4mm diameter are size 8.
Edited By Weary on 02/04/2019 10:02:37
|Thread: Potty:- Helping Dad Grasshopper Engine|
Very nice design, and of course beautifully built Mr Hart.
Shame that Model Engineer editor never published the design and build series. Not that many designs for Grasshoppers around compared to other layouts, especially for 'bar-stock' construction, and those that do exist are not 'beginner's' designs like yours.
|Thread: BR 55 or G8.1 5" gauge plans|
That looks to be finished in the KPEV colours, don't know if you are aware but there is a lined-out in (off-)red version too. Pic. That pic shows the full extent of the lining as the tender is lined only on sides and not on rear surfaces. Less good pic here - colours overexposed.
Edited By Weary on 06/03/2019 22:24:46
The adjustable 'wedge' on the axle-box horn face is to take up wear. I recall that some British built locomotives were fitted with them too.
Off-the-top I have no source of detail drawings of DR/DB axle-boxes. Are there any particular issues needing clarification? Panki's forum may be the place to ask, though there are other forums too, of course.
Pleased to see that you are progressing the design.
|Thread: Straightening a wayward hole|
I suggest that the likelihood of success of BS1 centre-drill to 're-drill' your wayward holes depends on how much out of true your existing 2mm holes are. The point diameter on a BS1 centre-drill is 1.2mm, provided that point doesn't touch the walls of your already drilled 'wandering holes' at any point when drilling through then with the work firmly held and the centre-drill securely oriented and progressed into the job with great delicacy and patience your scheme will work. So, the success of your proposed centre-drill method depends on the waywardness of the existing holes. You do need to be confident that the point will not 'snag' the hole-wall at any point as should the point of the centre-drill touch the wall of the already drilled hole at any point as it progresses then it is likely going to fail.
If you prefer a less risky method then I would suggest a suitably sized slot-drill (likely 3mm?) to re-orient your wandering holes. Once again rigidity, delicacy and patience will be the watch-words.
Best of luck(!) & regards,
Edited By Weary on 27/02/2019 18:30:09
|Thread: Tubal Cain : 0.5mm holes : spade point bit needed ? why ?|
To answer your question:
"On one of his builds he [Tubal Cain] recommends Jewellers Spade Point Drill Bits for drilling 0.5mm holes.
Do you always need this sort of drill bit for tiny holes ?"
I would suggest 0.5mm PCB Tungsten Carbide drill bits in the appropriate collet as the modern equivalent.
If you are unfamiliar with these drill-bits then a search on ebay will illustrate the sort of thing which is available from many suppliers in a range of sizes. I tried to link to a suitable ad' but was unable to do-so successfully.
You do not have to drill at fantastic rotational speed, but if drilling at slow rotational speeds then you must proceed very gently with extremely frequent withdrawal and clearing of the flutes. You may find the bits perform better without 'suds' which, depending on the material you are drilling into, can slow debris clearance - in my experience anyway. A bit of experimentation may be in order.
Edited By Weary on 16/02/2019 12:32:15
|Thread: Thick walled copper tube|
Or consider using 3/16 x 16swg (= .064" or 1/16" wall thickness) which is commonly available? Adjust threads and fittings (bushes etc.) to suit 1/32 diameter increase.
|Thread: BR 55 or G8.1 5" gauge plans|
As an addendum:
Zander-Heba have general arrangement drawings drawn at 1:40 scale of all the Prussian Br55 variants in their catalogue.
The 8.1 is here.
The 3 T 16.5 tender is here.
I only had a brief scan-about, but may be worth you having a good look round the site if you think the drawings may be useful, as, as written above, all the Prussian variants seem to be there.... example. I have not spotted the later DR 'heavier'(??) type, but I expect it may well be there somewhere. Maybe it is one of the types listed on this page showing equivalent classifications and a search in the 'Prussian Freight Locomotives' for the correct Prussian equivalent will turn-up suitable drawings. Alternatively you can ask Zander-Heba of course.
There is this copy of Eisenbahn Journal which is relevant if you do not have it. Click on the lower thumbnail labelled in red 'PDF Dateien' for an list of contents and an excerpt to show you what is in the mag' (Apologies if 'teaching grandmother to suck eggs'!). Maybe worth seeking out a copy if you prefer paper to an e-book..
The (seemingly!) definitive book is listed on this page. At a variety of prices - postage shown is within Germany, ask for UK rate. There is one listed on abebooks in the UK at present at just under £40 p&p included.
This site may whet your appetite. Look down the list on the left and click on 'lokliste', then click on Bundesbahn-/Reichsbahn-Dampflokomotiven & scroll down to the '55' section for a couple of pics of 5" gauge Br55.
Hopefully your drawings you have are adequate to produce something that looks like the Baureihe 55, but if not - or you want further info' then it may be worth getting in touch with the German Railway Museum, Verkehrsmuseum Nurnberg, as well as trying Panki's Forum for leads. There are some detailed 'picture books' on the class of course as well as t'internet pics and youtube videos. Basic drawing on this page for example (scroll down).
As you are probably aware, the 16.5 in the tender designation is the maximum water volume in cubic metres, it is very close to some other tender types, so maybe an adaptation of another type will serve you, and/or some common parts like underframe. So, by careful checking and reference you may be able to use or adapt other drawings for the tender if those you have are not adequate.
There may be some reasonably detailed drawings around in 5" gauge/scale as there are some models to this gauge around.
Best of luck,
Edited By Weary on 24/01/2019 22:29:16
Edited By Weary on 24/01/2019 22:34:43
You may wish to try posting on Panki's Forum - if you have not already done-so - here.
Hans Wittmann has a few plans of German(ic) prototypes for live-steam, mostly in 5". garba.de , I have checked and they do not provide BR55, but the drawings for a suitable tender may be available. Maybe worth an email - perhaps you already know the tender designation(s?) as fitted to BR55?
Live steam service in Germany has castings for some popular 5" gauge German locos but does not 'do' drawings so far as I am aware, but if all else fails may be able to give some leads.
|Thread: Copper tube wall thickness & pressure withstood.|
Thanks to all who replied. Your contributions individually and taken together have been very useful indeed to me.
Thanks to Dave and Neil for giving me the relevant formula, and in Neil's case directing me to where it can be found in The Model Engineer's Handbook. I had not considered that for mathematical modelling purposes a tube could be considered to be a long, thin, seamless boiler. Even though Andrew's response indicates that this may be a somewhat crude analogy and that reality is somewhat more complex I suspect that this 'approximate model' will suit my purposes.
I will probably use a thicker tube than the minimum because, as was pointed out, heating to silver-solder end-fittings will result in the tube being annealed rather than 'half-hard'. Study of the document suggested by Keith indicates that this reduces the burst pressure by around 40%. But then, a number of cycles of pressurising and de-pressurising the tube will (work) harden it again ..... so further research and consideration on my part required.
Anyway, I have the basic vocabulary now for better directed searching, so thanks again one-and-all for your assistance.
I am interested in finding out what kind of pressure copper tube in the dimensions used in model engineering can withstand. I have looked in the usual suspects (AMBSC Code, Model Engineer's Handbook, & internet) in an attempt to find the maximum safe pressures without success.
My utilisation is as follows - but I am also interested in the general information for future use:
Half-hard copper tube 3/16 O/D for use in locomotive (cold) water boiler feed. Boiler max pressure 100lbs sq. in. Tube wall thicknesses available: 26, 22, 20, 18, 16 swg. There would be a significant advantage to using the thinnest tube possible.
Reference to this table & imaginative extrapolation would seem to indicate that 26 swg will more than adequate. Is this correct... or can you advise otherwise, or even give exact maximum safe pressure information for 'our' sizes of tube??
Edited By Weary on 12/01/2019 15:13:48
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 13/01/2019 14:22:18
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