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Member postings for dcosta

Here is a list of all the postings dcosta has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Websites contacting you
10/03/2020 17:27:06

Hello all,

I received from Firefox a message with this banner: "Keep Facebook off your trail".

For those concerned with abuse of the privacy of their data.
Firefox offers an extension that allows you to avoid spying in the context of their browser.

greetings from
Dias Costa


Edited By dcosta on 10/03/2020 17:33:19

Thread: Electronic Lead Screw Project
27/02/2020 20:19:22

Hi Dave,

Thank you for your help.
I took your suggestion, made a correction to a curly brace in a file and was successful.
The scope of the statement really had to be that. But as I lacked confidence, and as I'm not used to the development interface, I didn't dare.

I tried that feature and didn't like it. Perhaps because I did something wrong, the buttons randomly increase / decrease the value in jumps (not sequentially). Perhaps the function requires a short delay between each value ...
Maybe I'll try to add it.

best regards
Dias Costa

26/02/2020 23:41:49

Hello John,

Thank you for sharing information about your project.
I am interested in trying to add the functionality you refer to in your post to the program.
I have already started the process but, out of ignorance, I was forced to suspend the attempt.
I stuck in point 3. - here: "add this to UserInterface.h
int ButtonStateMachine (bool incrementButtonPressed, bool decrementButtonPressed) ";

Although I have professionally been a programmer / analyst for almost three decades, not having programmed in 'C', I am not sure where in the UserInterface.h file should I insert the line.

Could you do me a favor and tell me where that line should be inserted?

Thanks in advance
Dias Costa

25/02/2020 20:21:23

Hi Phil and others,

Thank you for your help.
With your encouragement, and based on the connections from another small stepper motor in another project, and using the multimeter to test, I tried a new connection that I think is called BIPOLAR PARALLEL.
I connected the RED wire and the BLUE wire,
I connected the YELLOW wire and the BLACK wire - constituting winding A
I connected the WHITE wire and the BROWN wire
I connected the PURPURA wire and the GREEN wire - constituting the B winding.
NOTE: in the meantime I found an ArcEuroTrade file (HYBRID STEPPING MOTOR MODEL 160-010-00400) which also describes these BIPOLAR PARALLEL connections as possible.

Now, the stepper motor has been connected for approximately three hours and has heated up to, perhaps, 45º (the hand supports the temperature well) and, as far as I can see, it works as well as before.
Thanks to the help received, I am finally satisfied and will be able to move forward on the project.

best regards
Dias Costa

25/02/2020 16:25:28

Hi Roger,

Thank you for your help.
Yes, this is writen in the documentation. But, activating the option, I didn't feel that the temperature of the stepper motor would rise less.

Are you, by any chance, using the same DM542 driver?
Can you please tell me which stepper motor you are using?

See if you can please the previous message addressed to Phil.

best regards
Dias Costa

25/02/2020 16:22:02

Hi Phil and others,

Thank you for your help.
Maybe the problem is not with the DM542 driver ...
The stepper motor I have been using was purchased at ArcEuroTrade several years ago and I must have missed the specifications as I cannot find them.
It was used, for a short time, until recently in a test application with the TB6560 driver and worked well for hours without overheating as much as it does now. The difference is that he was not idle that long.
It has eight wires and the connections that existed for the test and I kept for the DM542 driver, now, are the following:
YELLOW and BLUE pair connected to each other, PURPLE and BROWN pair connected to each other;
I connected the remaining four wires to the driver as follows:
the WHITE wire to A + and the GREEN wire to A-
the RED wire to B * and the BLACK wire to B-
The power supply supports 24V, 4.5A and is connected like this:
positive to the VCC pin and negative to the GND pin.
From what I remember the configuration of the connections is BIPOLAR.
Would another configuration of the connections from the stepper motor to the diver be better?

The only information I know about the stepper motor comes from the ArcEuroTrade invoice:
Item Code: 160-010-00400
Description: 220Ncm - 10mm Shaft - Hybrid Stepper Motor
More: it has a double axis, 115mm in length.

I would be grateful if any of the participants who have documentation for this stepper motor could share it with me.

The DM542 driver also has the functionality to reduce the current when the motor is stopped and also runs automatically, but only after being manually activated with the on / off / on maneuver.

best regards
Dias Costa

25/02/2020 00:21:15

Hi Phil,

Thanks for your help.
The DM542 driver also has the option to automatically limit the current when the stepper motor is not running.
But to activate this option, it is necessary to switch on / switch off / switch on the SW4 and the effect on lowering the heat of stepper motor is not noticeable.
About an hour after being turned on it is unbearably hot!
I still don't know (I haven't researched enough...) if there will be any aspect of the driver configuration that can be changed to lower the engine temperature.

best regards
Dias Costa

23/02/2020 21:08:26

Hi Phil and others,

I finally managed to make an assembly of the system that works. And this time I didn't "burn" any components.
I used an 8-wire network cable to communicate between the control box and the interface board. I also used a network cable between the interface board and the DM542 driver.
As I said before, I used the DM542 driver and the motor spins when I move the rotary encoder.
I am currently using version 1.0.03 of the software.
During tests the stepper motor is stopped most of the time and, perhaps because of that, it warmed up a lot and quickly, and I tried to select 2.84A peak in the driver. Now it seems to heat up less and less quickly.

1 - Should I follow any specific sequence when turning the TI LaunchXL F280049C and DM542 driver on and off? Is there any risk of turning on / off one before the other?
2 - The power supply for the driver / motor delivers 24V and goes up to 6.5A of current and the motor supports up to 2.5A. Should I be careful about the relationship between the power supply and the driver that only supports up to 4.5A even though it has over-voltage and over-current protections?
Any recommendations, please?

best regards
Dias Costa

16/02/2020 00:31:26

Hi Phil,
Hi Limpet,

I'm sorry, it was a false alarm. I rushed in alarm without having tested what was within my reach and knowing how.
I did the computer reset and, in the end, the two serial ports were present and it was once again possible via the "Code Composer Studio" and again flash the program for the TI LaunchXL F280049C.

I also discovered that there was a broken cable that connects the LED & Key Display to the interface. Nasty coincidence!
I soldered it again and, finally, everything is working fine.

Tomorrow I will test the connection again.

Best Regards
Dias Costa

15/02/2020 23:22:30

Hi Phil,
Hi Limpet,

I really appreciate your quick help.
There was a "disgrace" ...
Is there a way to test the integrity of the TI LaunchXL F280049C?
I think I just burned one more, the second.
I connected the DM542 driver to the interface, as suggested, and when I powered on the interface, the display showed nothing. The DM542 driver was not connected.
As it is the second I burn in similar circumstances, I must have made some mistake in the interface.
The two serial ports that the "Code Composer Studio" software uses to communicate with the F280049C are no longer present in device management as they did when I burned the first board.

Thanks and regards
Dias Costa

Edited By dcosta on 15/02/2020 23:25:06

15/02/2020 21:58:06

Hi Phil,

I really appreciate your quick help.
Please consider the wiring diagram for the DM542 interface driver, ***HERE*** .
Which interface pin do I connect to VCC? It seems to me that it should be the positive 5V output. Am I right?
I assume that Pulse should be connected to Step, Direction should be connected to DIR and Enable should be connected to EN.
What about the negative pole? Can I understand that it is passed by each of the STEP, DIR and EN? And so, in addition to ALM, do I also ignore GND?

Thanks and regards
Dias Costa

15/02/2020 21:46:48

Hello Limpet.

I really appreciate your help.
For someone like me who is a "turnip" in electronics and does not have English as his native language, it is sometimes difficult to discover the meaning of some words, especially if contained in idiomatic expressions, let alone acronyms!

Best regards
Dias Costa

15/02/2020 18:19:11

Hi Phil,
I have already assembled the cover you offered on the box I bought from England. It fits well but only after cutting the small curved edge at the corners. My box is therefore different from yours. Interestingly, the day after the assembly of the lid you offered me, the box ordered from China arrived and I could verify that the lid is exactly the same as the one I bought here in Portugal.
So, I have this part of the project almost ready.

I didn't find on the WWW anyone who sold the driver DM542T to Portugal and that's why I bought the DM542. Whatever the differences, I'm not sure, but I read that basically, for my purpose, they are the same. Later, eventually, when the COVID-19 crisis is over, I can buy the DM542T.
I want to go ahead and make the connections to the PCB interface you made.
I now need help with the following: The interface you manufactured, has connections that are visually different from those of the Clough interface and also the driver that I have has different connection point designations than the driver that Clough uses. So I can't use the diagram he makes available to support the connections.
Could you please show me the point-to-point connections between the interface board and the DM542T driver?

Can you tell me, please, what does ALM mean? I looked in acronym finder but I didn't find an answer that fit.

Thanks in advance
Dias Costa

08/02/2020 18:32:51

Hi Phil,

I thank you very much for the great favor of printing for me, in 3D, the cover and the buttons for the control box of the "Electronic Lead Screw".
I've already done a temporary assembly of the cover with the Led & Key Display (L&KD) and the adjustment between the L&KD and the cover is good and the buttons work very well.
To complete this part of the project, I still need to receive the metal box, which comes from China with an estimated arrival between 11 and 20 February, but, probably given the current circumstances, it will take longer to arrive. For this reason, I looked better here, in Portugal, and found the Hammond 1590B box and already ordered it.

1 - the first button from the left (PWR) at this moment has no function. Do you know if there is any future goal for him in the project?
2 - How did you write the text FWR FWD / REV FEED / THR MM / IN / TPI given the scarcity of space above the LEDs? Any suggestions, please ...
3 - I already have the stepper motor (Nema 23, double shaft purchased from ArcEuroTrade a few years ago) and I want to use it in this project for my EMCO Compact 8 lathe.
But I still haven't bought the driver for the stepper motor and, not being interested in the closed loop stepper driver, I'm not sure to choose another controller.
As previously reported I tried the TB6560 driver and somehow damaged the TI board and I don't want to repeat ...
Any suggestion, please?

Best Regards
Dias Costa

Edited By dcosta on 08/02/2020 18:56:59

22/01/2020 22:19:20

Hi Dennis,

Thank you for your attention and suggestion.
A few weeks ago, before Phil offered me the 3D printed box top, when thinking how I could make the buttons, one of the ways I considered a solution similar to the one you refer to: machining the buttons on the lathe. The other way was to look for buttons and cut them to fit the holes (see here for example:
I could possibly find buttons with the appropriate dimensions, but I suspect that there would be serious friction problems with the hole walls.

Best regards
Dias Costa

22/01/2020 21:29:40

Hi Jason,

Thanks for the information.
Jason: I printed them in flexible material. The files are on the clough42’s thingiverse page.
Me: I had already found the files from a link in your nice video "Clough42 ELS electronics completed and working." on Youtube.
From your experience, the buttons made of flexible material do not have much friction with the walls of the holes?

best regards
Dias Costa

22/01/2020 11:28:45

Hi Phil,

Phil: Here is the link to the box I bought, it is the 1590B version
Me: Thanks for the link to box 1590B.
I already ordered it.

Phil: I'm printing the top now, the measurements look the same as mine. I'll print some buttons as well.
Me: Thank you very much for this. I am embarrassed because I don't know how to thank you enough. Please read the PM.

Dias Costa

21/01/2020 14:55:50


Thank you for your help and for the offer, which I accept, to 3D print a lid for the metal box I am going to buy.

If the box you use is right for you, it will also be good for me. So, in order for me to buy the box, please tell me the address on Ebay where you bought yours.
So, if my "LED and key buttyons" is the same as yours, the dimension issue will be overcome.

I bought the LED and key buttons that I have here:
At this address you will find an image with some measurements of it.

Did you use any cover for the buttons, as Clough and Jason did, or did you leave them in plain view coming out of the holes?

Dias Costa

21/01/2020 14:51:28


Thanks for your help.
I didn't know about the existence of that material for making labels. It will surely be of use to me.
Thanks for the information.
Could you please tell me if you made the green cover for the buttons or if you got them in another way?
And if you bought them, can you tell me where?

Thanks in advance
Dias Costa

17/01/2020 21:21:40


Thanks for the help and information on where I can buy the display case.
Since I don't have a 3D printer and my milling machine is not a CNC, I won't be able to do a decent job of drilling the holes and engraving the words on the box lid so that it looks good and essentially functional.
I can see in your work that the holes and writing on the lid of the box was very well done. Could you please tell me if it was your job or if there is any way to buy it?
If I can't buy the box ready made, I'll have to look for some other solution that will never be as perfect and functional as yours.

Best Regards
Dias Costa

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