|Thread: Interface PCB for the ELS project|
I agree with Zan. Please do so.
I'm sorry Phil, my message dated 03-11-2019 should have been written as follows:
Yes, please, I'm interested in the component set.
Not yet! Friday was holiday here. Perhaps will arrive tomorrow
Thank you for your care.
Hello Phill, Good morning.
I'm interested in the kit of parts.
I am portuguese and I live in Portugal.
If you still have an available PCB I would like to have it.
If there is such a possibility I do not know how I can pay you for the board and all expenses. Will it be possible through PayPal?
|Thread: What is this called?|
Hi Iain, good morning.
You cant try ***HERE***
Withou looking further I found a variation.
For searching I used "window keeps GU" , being GU one maker of PVK keeps.
Edited By dcosta on 12/10/2019 11:32:06
|Thread: Electric Cars|
See **HERE** please.
In Portugal there is also lithium.
See **HERE** please.
|Thread: MEW 283 Electronic Leadscrew link|
I'm interested in building an ELS for my EMCO Compact 8 lathe, so I started looking for an incremental rotary encoder that can be used in the project.
As I just know - from what you wrote in your post - that the rpm must be at least 4000 - I searched and found a rotary encoder **HERE**
Could you please tell me if, in your opinion, his specifications are compatible with my objective?
|Thread: Building as Hand Operated Shaper|
I started building a shaper based on Gingery's book, with modifications, but I have not figured it out yet.
You can eventually collect some information from the photos that you will find **HERE** and / or from the little film that I made and that you will find **HERE** in the following URL:
Also see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZdbNWoySo0 (from Rick Sparber who shared with me some knowledge and experience during the construction of my shaper).
|Thread: Machining cork!|
Please see thread **HERE** .Seventh post.
Thanks for the clarification.
I will have to review my (short) knowledge about files.
If in your message you mean that the Tomé Feteira files are of Swiss manufacture, you are wrong.
They are, in fact, manufactured in Portugal.
Read, please, the text you can find ***HERE*** .
|Thread: Stepper Motor Controls|
I have been away from home and just today I was able to prepare myself to begin the work of drawing the links between the Arduino tb6560 driver and the power supplies.
Thankfully I read the news in the forum first.
Dave's very well-done work (SillyOldDuffer) far surpasses everything I could do. What's more, it uses a driver (tb6600) which seems to me to be more complete and sturdier than what I use (tb6560).
I'm really tempted to get a tb6600 driver and follow Dave's instructions for assembly.
If, after all, I can be of service to you, please let me know.
I started building a system for lead screw control for my lathe but I have by now stopped its development.
The materials used and the point where the building is is as follows:
Motor: NEMA23 (double axle and long purchased at Arceurotrade)
Driver: tb6560 (around £10 in Amazon)
Controller: Arduino Mega (may be Arduino Uno)
Motor Power Supply: 24Volts, 6.5Amperes
Power supply for Arduino: 5Volts, 1.5Amperes
All connections are made (they are temporary) and the program on the Arduino already controls the motor.
I have tested the system with the engine running (without load) for many hours and it does not even heat up.
If you want I can make a very simple drawing of the connection diagram.
|Thread: MEW Stepper Power Cross Feed stops|
Hello Daggers, good evening.
First of all I must say that I am not an electronics expert.
One possibility is to use a Hall effect sensor (very small) fixed at each end of the course of the cross slide and a very small magnet fixed at each end of one side of the cross slide.
The sensor is very easily understood by the Arduino and the necessary code exists available as an example on the WWW.
I am experimenting with the use of Hall sensors and magnets (4mm diameter and 2mm thickness) to detect and control movement of a disc mounted on the spindle of the lathe and using the information gathered to control the rotation of the lead screw.
The Hall sensor I use has the SS49E reference.
Additionally, I call your attention to a driver that I am also using in this experience that has also proved very easy to use with Arduino. It is currently controlling a stepper motor and the programming was also easy (perhaps because I was professionally a programmer). That driver is referred to as TB6560.
If I can help you please feel free to ask.
Not being English my mother tong perhaps I wrote some wrongs or was not clear enough. If so I beg you, please, forgive me.
|Thread: Replacement bellows needed|
Hello Peter, good evening.
Curious...I only showed those photos in this forum. Maybe someone has copied them to other places...
The link I made available in my post shows only one photo. The following *** LINK *** shows a collection of them all about bellows on my BF20.
Hello Peter, good evening.
After the bellows of my BF20 milling machine broke down, I bought a new bellows from my supplier but, in the meantime, using a cheap Chinese curtain I made a temporary substitute that I have not yet removed (after almost 5 years) to apply the standard bellows.
And they have worked beautifully ...
In addition I have material to make more than 10 curtains for replacements.
See, please, some pictures in the following *** LINK ***
|Thread: Milling power feed|
I am building a new power feed for my milling machine.
The items I am using are as follows:
- An Arduino Uno (Amazon: £ 6.95).
- A 12 volt 6Amperes power supply (Ebay: £ 17.60)
- A stepper motor similar to that used by Mr Myfordboy acquired years ago in the ArcEurotrade, double shaft (£ 84.00). Remember you need a powerfull engine!
- A TB6560 driver (Amazon: £ 5.19).
- One 10kOhm potentiometer
My motor is already running very well.
The connections are very simple.
If you want I can draw the schema and post it and a small video of the set.
|Thread: Cleaning Lathe after use|
Hello Fowlers Fury,
No, you are not alone.
I also wash my hands in a white porcelain tank used for domestic purposes by my wife who demands absolute whiteness.
For a while I also had the problem of very small rust spots on the bottom of the tank and so I had to use a separate bowl to wash my hands and then pour directly into the sewer without going through the tank ...
Until I remembered having seen - and I was intrigued - an old turner in a workshop washing his hands with swarfega without using water and finishing cleaning with paper towels.
I tried using swarfega as I had seen it for a long time and after carefully wiping my hands with the paper towel I finished washing with soap and water.
In the swarfega detergent and the paper towel were the metal scraps. At least most of them.
And for better guarantee of result try to empty the water that tends to stay in the bottom of the tank.