Here is a list of all the postings Ian Lee has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford super 7 Drive|
I all ready run a toothed belt drive on a BT30 vertical milling head which I have designed, It used a 25mm wide belt, runs quiet as a mouse using a 1.1kw motor.
After reading all of your suggestions and comments I have decided to stick with my 1hp motor and try out a toothed belt and have a look at a polly Vee as well , although my large lathe runs on a polly vee at the moment but am not that impressed with it.
I thank you all for your comments and suggestion and will see what sort of success I have.
I want to be able to change speeds without stopping it.
I am still going to use the 2 step pulley on a V belt from the motor to the countershaft, By using a 1.1 kw motor will give me a better torque range than a 1hp motor which I currently have fitted, I am not making large components as I have a much larger lathe. I am working on a project which requires a large number of non ferrous components,I have a virtually new Myford capstan attachment and a multiple tool holding cut off slide. Some of the components need threading so need to be able to change speed, I used to be a tool maker and often tooled up medium to very large turret and capstan lathes.. I just wanted 1 toothed belt pully with a mod on it so that if needed I can still use the back gearing.
I am thinking of converting one of my Myford Super 7scto a toothed belt drive from the countershaft to the spindle, The plan is to power it with a 1.1kw 2 pole motor on a VFD, normal Vee belt from motor then a 1 to 1 ratio toothed belt to the spindle, reason for a 1.1kw motor is to compensate for loss of power I get from using a .750 watt motor at low speeds.
Any recommends or advice would be appreciated as am filling in my time as am self isolating.
|Thread: Aciera F3|
Thank you both, the info and links are most useful, I am hoping to get the milling machine later this we or early next week.
Looks like I will be taking possession of an Aciera F3 milling machine.It uses W20 collets, my question is does anyone know the external dimensions of the collets or does anyone know where I can get a drawing, reason I ask is that I want to make short arbors to mount my tipped face mills on. Also anyone know of a W20 collet supplier or is it just look on ebay.
|Thread: Myford crossslide mounted turret|
Thank you both for your comments, they have given me food for thought.
No doubt this subject has come up before.I have acquired an unused Myford turret for mounting on the cross slide, what is the recommended hole size for the tools and what is the hole size, depth and offset for the clamping bolts. Also is it best to wind the cross slide in as far as it will go to mount the turret . Any help would be most welcome
|Thread: Turning a tapered carburator needle|
Just an update, we have tried the needles and they work, however it is back to the drawing board as although the car actually runs it needs some choke so running a bit lean, I am now making some more needles with a different and slimmer taper, am trying to steps every 1/8th inch so will see if I can manage it on my Clarkson tool grinder.
|Georgeineer, turns out that the original needles somewhere along the way got lost, The carbs for this Bentley were basically a one off and onle ever made for this car, the carbs were assembled from a variety of SU bits, the main jets were made by an engine tuner as were the needles, this is why it's not easy to get the thing to run. Thevidea is I make this pair of needles and hopefully it will run up through the rev range, then believe it or not John is going to one of those tune up spark plugs so we can see it burning.|
To everyone who commented thank you, I have managed to make these needles, I ended up removing the complete milling head from a small Clarkes milling machine I bought years ago from machine mart, I mounted it on my tool and cutter grinder, I then put the nickle silver rod in an ER32 collet and spun it at 2000 rpm against a 6 inch cup wheel, it worked a treat. I have just to put the circlip grove in them and we will try them out later this week, I will give an update about when they are intalled.
Jason , am going by the measurement I have been given by John, the guy that wants them. Thaiguzzi, I think John may have spoken to Amal as I told him they still make carbs, if he has not spoken to them I will tell him. I must admit that I want to have a go at making them, some of the things I have already made for John are bonnet mounted pennant holders for two of the Queens cars in her collection, recently I made a worm and wheel for a windscreen wiper gearbox on a 1938 Vanden Plas bodied Bentley and reconditioned a 1927 Rolls crankshaft vibration damper which had been stood for nearley 60 years. I do like a bit of a challenge, I have found out that the numbering on the drawings for the needle seems to relate to the fuel mixture rate at different throttle openings rather that different or variating tapers. I do however like to find or aquire advice from people, The response I have had with helpful comments, ideas and advice from my request is really appreciated.
|As far as I know my friend has a copy of WinSU and it can't give an answer due to the fact that the car weighs nearly 2.5 tonnes and has a non standard supercharger.|
|The guy I am making these for is one of the foremost Rolls and Bentley vintage car restorers and he can't find any info about these carbs as they were made only for W O Bentley and no one else. The engine is a Rolls Royce straight 6. The car was built between 1928 to 1930 with one the prototype and another copy. There are a few copies about on genuine Rolls Royce chassis and engines but they were built much later.|
|There is no information at all available for these carbs, there is no serial number on them and no archived info about them.|
|Holding the needle is no problem as I have a Myford collet set and an Er32 and Er20 set. The taper is even and not stepped, the originals were for some reason broken. The actual carbs are basically one offs, they are massive compared with Bentleys standard supercharched SUs. I thank you all for your suggestions. I was thinking of grinding them, I do have a high speed spindle which I could mount on my vertical slide, what I am trying to avoid is making the taper concave over its length. The tapered end of the needle has a point on the end so I will have a go at making a tailstock mounted brass centre support. I may try all of your suggested ideas before I make the actual needles. The actual car was made to run flat out everywhere as it was purely designed for racing the French Blue Train over the Alps.|
|Strictly speeaking this is not a model engineering componant. I have been asked to make 2 carburator needles for an extremely rare supercharged Bentley. The pair of needles need to be 3 inch long with a taper length of 2.5in. The larger diameter is .125in and the smaller end is .100in. this gives a taper of 1deg 25" 50secs which is half the included angle. I will have to turn them with the compound slide as I do not have a taper turning attachment. The material will be nickel rod. |
Has anyone any experience of make needles for carb throttle slides and has anyong got any advice or helpful comments. This particular Bentley is a Bentley Blue Train, the SU carbs on the supercharger were custom made for W O Bentley and only about 8 of these carbs were ever made.
Edited By Ian Lee on 16/10/2018 21:50:26
|Thread: .225 dia x 40 tpi die|
When I worked in the engineering industry I used a lot of tallow, it was particularly good for threading, slotting and shapers. its just stank a bit, we tried all of the early modern tapping lubricants but they were not quite as good as tallow.
Thank you all for your comments and advice, I actually took John Stevensons advice and linished to outside of the die, I went out and bought a Clarke Electric file from Machine Mart. It worked a treat, I turned a boss and threaded it to 7/32 x 40 tpi, I ran the die up to the shoulder, undid the die holder and left the die on the boss, put my lathe to 65rpm then used the new electric file to remove about 7 thou off of the diameter, worked a treat. I found that the grub screws in my die holder had a slight taper up to a flat end which was no good for opening the die up, I went to our local fastner supplier (BBN Fastnet) and bought some cone end grub screws, worked a treat at opening up the die.
|Jason, yes I could do with an old die set but finding one with 40 Tpi is difficult.|
|Clive, It is the multiple aperture sights I am replacing with 5 seperate sights. The rifle is my friends lee Enfield Mk1. The thread is definately .225. I have checked it against a similar sight. The reason for seperate sights is that the larger multiple sight fouls the top of an early telescopic sight mount. The problem is the fact that 7/32 thread is too loose and is not repeatably accurate. My freind is quite fastidious as he is a very good shot (65th out of 1500 at the last Bisley event)|
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