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Member postings for mgnbuk

Here is a list of all the postings mgnbuk has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Benchtop lathe with power cross feed, looking to buy
18/01/2021 18:20:40

If you could find one, a Boxford ME10 would meet all your requirements as would a Model A (not AUD).

Both had the motor mounted behind the headstock & had PCF and a screwcutting gearbox. Metric and Imperial versions were made. Neither is very popular, though, so coming across one would be the biggest problem.

Nigel B.

Thread: bolts
18/01/2021 17:57:52

(0.025 mm is not much, 0.002" in old money )

There's inflation for you - 0.025mm used to be 0.001" smile

Nigel B.

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
18/01/2021 09:58:26

compression of the front forks under braking reduces the stability of a motorcycle

By steepening the steering head angle - can be used to advantage for a quicker turn-in.

I was working in Honda/Yamaha/Triumph/MZ/SILK dealers

Brooke Listers in Bradford by any chance ? The only SIlk dealer I knew of - though I only saw them in passing while buying parts for my Garelli Tiger Cross. More expensive than a CB750K7 IIRC.

I hated the "funny front end" on the R1100RS that I test rode at the time they came out. I couldn't feel what the front wheel was doing & frequently locked it at slow speeds. A really rather unpleasant motorcycle in many regards.

Honda ditched the pressed steel leading link fork on the C series bikes quite a while ago - the whole range is telescopic forks now. Another rather strange bike to ride, with the front end rising under braking & IIRC they had no damping.

I have an MZ ES250/2 with Earles forks, but it came to me in bits and that is where it remains, so no riding experience on that type of suspension. Not certain why MZ had the Earles forks on the ES range - possibly because they were offered with a factory sidecar for which the Earles fork has advantages. Certainly not because MZ couldn't make telescopic forks, as other models in the range had them.

Forks with no seperate bushings don't seem to have any particular longevity problems. Mrs B's R65LS has covered around 100K miles with no more than a couple of sets of seals & regular oil changes. I did notice a stain on one stantion, though, where closer inspection revealed that the hard chrome plating has worn thin & the steel is starting to rust. Re-chrome time soon - but after 35 years or so I don't think that is too bad. IIRC Honda started with the non-metallic bushings to reduce stiction. MZ do something similar in their un-bushed fork by recommending the addition of molybdenum dispulphide suspension to the fork oil.

While various "funny front ends" have come and gone, I guess the "inferior" telescopic fork survives because to does enough fo most riders most of the time & is easy & inexpensive to make.

Nigel B.

Thread: Chester digital display-i200
17/01/2021 16:55:20

Are you using this DRO on a lathe or mill ?

On a lathe (which I would assume from diameter references ? ) X for cross-sllde (diameter) & Z for carriage (length) is the usual notation. If your cross-slide is showing as Z axis, swap scale plugs at rear of counter ?

If there are no parameters for count direction, swapping the A and B channels in the scale plug will reverse count direction.

Nigel B.

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
17/01/2021 14:49:02

Design horrors like the Yamaha house style things fitted to the XJ900

I don't recall anything particularly "horrific" about the XJ900 I had ?


I don't seem to have many pictures of it, though it only hung around for less than a year & did one European tour. This picture was taken at the finish point of the Stella Alpina Rally in '94 - I seemed to have had hair then (I'm wearing the BMW Club Tee shirt). Don't know who the Kawaski belonged to, it wasn't with us (Mrs B is behind the camera & seems to have parked her R65LS elsewhere).

Having previously had a BMW K100RT, I felt that the Yamaha was the better bike in pretty well all regards - certainly no handling issues that I recall. It was my last "four", as the penny finally dropped that it wasn't any particular "four" that I didn't get along with, it was the format. I have mainly stuck to twins since & been (largely) the happier for it ! The Yamaha was a pretty bike, though.

Nigel B

Thread: Workshop Electrics
17/01/2021 14:13:57

This description of notifiable work

states that replacement of a consumer unit is notifiable under Part P

Nigel B.

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
17/01/2021 12:26:56

I now have confirmation that the forks on those early jap bikes were so thin and flimsy

And not just the early ones - I sold a late '90s Honda Transalp mainly because of fork flex.


The riding style I have developed over many years relies on pretty aggresive counter-steering to change direction. On the Transalp - with the combination of wide bars & long travel, skinny forks - I could feel the forks twisting with handlebar input during "spirited" back roads riding.The lack of front end grip from the equally skinny 90/90-21 front tyre was less than confidence inspiring as well.

Nice engine & comfortable, but the early (one of the first in the UK) Deauville that replaced it was a much better handling bike.

Nigel B.

Thread: Water pump for spindle cooling
17/01/2021 12:11:54

It comes with the necessary hosetail adaptor, which is useful, but with a Chinese 2 pin plug, not so useful.

Not just "not so useful", but breaking the law :

The Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994 requires that domestic mains powered appliances are fitted with a standard plug conforming to BS 1363. This requirement is often ignored by on-line sellers and many products are sold with European (and sometimes American) mains plugs instead of UK standard plugs.

A UK supplier (or a supplier who supplies into the UK) should be aware of the legal requirements for the equipment he is supplying. I bought a diesel space heater from a German supplier just before Xmas - it was supplied with a German Schuco 2 pin plug, but also had an adapter that the Schuco plug was secured into to safely convert it to a UK 3 pin plug.

At a miniumum, CNC4You should have included something similar - these adapters are readily available & are not expensive - you might choose to remind CNC4You of this.

Nigel B.

Thread: Lathe Milling Machine Help Needed
11/01/2021 13:36:42

I would say that is a much heavier machine than a 918/920.

The milling head is reminiscent of the Chester Champion milling machine & I'm pretty certain that the ex-Champion table feed gearbox I have fitted on my FB2 clone that came from a Chester open day is badged BBMTCO.

While I don't recall Chester selling that combination machine, it may be worth contacting them if they did have contacts with BBMTCO.

Nigel B.

This post

seems like it may refer to the same machine & the original poster seems to have a manual.

Edited By mgnbuk on 11/01/2021 13:44:39

Thread: Angle grinder cut off stand
10/01/2021 16:02:01

Where in the country are you John ?

I have a Lidl one, used once (and it worked OK when I used it) & it has just sat in it's box since. Yours FOC if we can work out a way to get it to you - it is a fairly heavy lump IIRC. so postage probably more than it is worth.

I live in West Yorks (HD2) & work in North Yorks (YO26) if that helps. I could dig it out put up pics if required.

Nigel B.

Thread: Arduino CNC
09/01/2021 16:12:49

4 axis arduino project

This isn't "4 axis" as such - the board allows cloning of one of the axes for gantry machines and, while the "4th axis" step & direction outputs can be brought out separately, it is noted that GRBL can only control 3 axes. The GRBL developer has said that a 4 axis version of GRBL won't fit on an Arduino Uno due to lack of memory. Protoneer also has a version that fits to a Raspberry Pi, giving a "stand alone" controller where the Pi replaces the PC.

There is a branch of GRBL for the Mega 2560 board here though this too is 3 axis.

A true 5/6 axis capable branch that runs on the Mega is available here though I have been unable to compile this - I get something that reports as GRBL1.1P onto the 2560, but it doesn't appear to have compiled as 5/6/ axis, just 3 when I check the parameters. I think this may be due to having previously compiled the 3 axis Uno version of GRBL on the same laptop - during compiling of the %x version in "verbose" mode I get references to using "previously compiled" modules. Not investigated further yet, though.

Grbl Gru is supposed capable of driving either the 3 or 5 axis versions of GRBL. Universal Gcode Sender will apparently send 4/5 axis commands to the Mega-5X version, though it can only display 3 axes.

Another Arduino option would appear to be through Estlcam, which I was unaware of until it was mentioned in the thread about Joe Noci's CNC lathe. The CNC part of Estlcam is not charged for & will work without limitation independently of the chargeable CAM part.

nema17 with a 100/1 gearbox

Will see if it has enough grunt to move a lathe or shaper or mill table

I would guess that speed will be your main issue. GRBL will output pulses upto 30KHz. Assuming 800 steps/rev, your motor will require 800 x 100 pulses per output shaft revolution = 80,000 pulses per rev. I make that 22.5 revs per minute at the output shaft at 30KHz - so a low feedrate when attached to a leadscrew. Going to full steps( 200 steps / rev) would up that to 90 rpm, but even with a 5mm pitch screw that is only 450 mm / min. Always assuming that your motor will provide meaningful torque at 30KHz ?

Nigel B.

Thread: Ajax AJPR220
09/01/2021 15:09:42

The main issue with industrial equipment for a home user is the cost of parts.

Haas machines are known to be relatively inexpensive to purchase new, but by all accounts their service & parts costs are very high. Siemens prices are similarly eye-watering. Even getting boards, drives etc. repaired by third party repairers is expensive - it is a rare occurence for, say, a drive repair to be less than £800 + Vat & many are double that. And even at £1500 for a repair (when a Siemens 611 drive PSU goes bang ) that is around half the price of a new unit from Siemens.

Also bear in mind that the purchase price of the machine has no bearing on replacement part prices - OEMs buying large numbers of control/drive packages get them at very low prices compared to "list" prices for one-offs, which in turn are less than "service part" prices. My former employer was offered complete Bridgeport packages for one job when Bridgeport cut back on orders - a Fanuc control, with 3 axis drives + motors, a spindle drive & motor, MPG, keyboard & all cables for less than we could buy the control on it's own. Spare parts prices are the same regardless of the initial cost of the kit & usually higher than as part of a package - from memory Heidenhain charged around 50% more for a replacement MPG pendant as a Service part than I paid for one as part of a control package bought through Sales (who would not quote for the unit on it's own - "go through Service" ! ) .

A "bargain" auction purchase can turn out expensive - my current project at work is a 1984 Gildemeister NEF710 lathe (710 mm swing over bed x 3 metres between centres ) bought as "complete but not working" from an auction for £2K while I was on holiday.

First issue - a dead CRT. £500 put an LCD replacement in, which allowed me to see the fault messages due to a dead axis drive unit. Cheaper to replace the Siemens DC servo drives & motors with Chinese brushlesss servos & motors (1 x 10Nm motor, 1 x 5Nm motor, 2 x amplifiers & cables £2.5k ) than repair the old units. That got the axes moving about & referencing nicely, so on to the spindle.

Spindle drive amplifier dead - cheaper to put in a British made Sprint Electric replacement (new 22KW DC drive £2k - repair quote for original Baumueller unit £6.5K ! ). Spindle runs now from an external reference, but won't run from Fanuc control - seems that the bespoke interface between the control & machine is defective. I could have replaced the interface with a PLC, but for not a lot more effort & up-front cost I have gone for a replacement control with built-in PLC (Fagor 8055TC £6.5k ) to replace the original Fanuc 3T Mate + bespoke interface - it was either that or cut losses & scrap it.

So not quite a bargain now - though when finished all the old, expensive-to-fix electronics will have been replaced & the machine will be more capable and easier to use than before - but would we have gone out & spent £16-17K (plus Vat, as are all the prices quoted) on this machine initially ? Probably not, though a recent search brought up the same spec. machine, working, for €15k from a dealer in Europe, so our retrofitted, upgraded machine should be worth a bit more than we have in it. I have not put in any of my time as a cost, as I get paid a salary & am fitting this in between other projects, repairs etc.

Given the price of industrial parts, it isn't really suprising to see ex-industrial machines bought by hobbyists being retrofitted with steppers & driven by Mach3, Linux CNC, Acorn etc.

Nigel B.

Thread: Real Bull CJ18, metal spindle drive gear (Pulley)
09/01/2021 14:03:01

You can open up a 3mm keyway, carefully, to 4 mm, but not the other way round.

True - but you could make a stepped key.

Nigel B.

Thread: Ajax AJPR220
09/01/2021 12:19:53

Looks rather like a lighter weight Triac for the 2020s (my fully enclosed Triac 200 is 600kgs vs the AJPR's 310 ) - possibly useful as as a portable "2nd operation" machine for small parts as well as education. Haas & XYZ offer something similar, though I don't know their pricing.

Pity it doesn't appear to be available with alternative control systems.

Nigel B.

Thread: Removing powder coating finish from metal.
08/01/2021 17:39:43

The company I used to use for powder coating motorcycle parts used to bake previously coated bits before removing the old coating by grit blasting. Baking the parts apparently made the coating brittle & easier to remove.

You don't say what type of bicycle frame you have, but for a "high end" road bike frame I would be wary of heating it, though. My former employer was a competetive cyclist (cyclo cross) & built bikes quite regularly - apparently the frames are designed to "whip", storing & returning the energy imparted to them by the rider. They eventually work hardened & lost this "whip" ability, which could be returned by having them heat treated - which destroyed the finish. He chose to build a new bike around a new frame rather than go down the heat treatment route. IIRC he went on to titanium frames rather than steel.

Nigel B.

Thread: Problem with DRO's memory or with mine?
03/01/2021 12:22:02

Reading this makes me wonder if there is a need for some sort of homing system on manual machines.

Many DROs have this facuility as a standard feature, usually described as "Ref" or similar.

To use this function, the scales must have an accessible reference mark ( the "Z" channel on the scale output). By "accessible" I mean that the scale has been mounted in such a way that the fixed reference mark can be traversed over by the read head. The position of the fixed reference mark (or marks) depends on the manufacturer and / or the model of scale - Heidenhain scales,as an example, can have one fixed mark in mid travel, a fixed mark 10mm from each end of travel, a single mark whose position is variable in 50mm increments depending on the position of an internal plate, or "distance coded" markes on a pre-determined variable spacing that requires software to determine where on the scale the read head currently is when two adjacent marks are traveresed, dependant on type of scale..

To make use of the reference facility, the DRO counters have to be "referenced" before setting the workpiece datum. When th "Ref" key is pressed, all readouts go to zero & the axes are traveresed in turn towards the reference mark on the scales - the counters don't start to count until the reference mark is traversed. There is usually some indication (an Led, for example) that the counter has been referenced.

Following referencing, a workpiece datum is set as usual. When it is required to pick up the same workpiece datum after a power down, the "Ref" procedure is redone after power on - the numbers that come on the counters after traversing the reference marks are relative to the datum that was previously set.

It isn't just high end industrial DROs that have this facility, the M-DRO basic units I fitted at work have it & I'm pretty certain the the "Jingce" unit currently langusihing on the bench & destined for my FB2 clone does as well.


Nigel B.

Thread: Warco HV mill
02/01/2021 14:29:28

Is that a Warco surface Grinder in the background?

Gosh, they did eventually get some stock of those !

I tried to buy one for my last employment, probably around 20 years ago now. Warco accepted the order, but the machine never turrned up - always "awaiting delivery of stock" when queried.

After several months, they offered an ex-school Spanish Ingar machine of similar capacity and for a similar price instead. The Ingar performed very well (so much so that I bought one of the same model from Ebay for home use), but I did wonder if the Warco machine would have performed as well.

I have not (up to now) seen any mention of anyone actually having got or used one, so will be interested to see how you get on with it.

Nigel B.

Thread: Super 7 Lathe Clutch, Countershaft or Pulley Wobble
02/01/2021 12:43:59

I am now wondering, prerhaps like you, if the grey bits are actually super 7 at all?

The grey bits look to be the same as the grey bits on my mid-60s Super 7. The green bits around the headstock, though, are the bits that get broken when a Super 7 falls over backwards when not moved carefully enough.

A Super 7 on the maker's stand is very top heavy and unstable - if it starts to topple while being moved, it does so very quickly and the cast aluminium parts (mainly the green ones shown) get smashed when it hits the floor. I bought a second Super 7 in just such a condition cheap - it had a gearbox & mine didn't, with the whole sorry lot on a stand going for much less than gearboxes sold for at the time.

So my best guess on that clutch wobble is that the intermediate shaft is bent, probably as a result of a backwards fall that appears to have been responsible for the damage that necessitated fitting the green replacement parts.

Nigel B.

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
29/12/2020 12:04:45

106,000 miles on a CB550F

Is a lot more than I managed on mine ! The first "big bike" I got after passing my test in '78 was a '76 CB550F1 - I wanted an RD400, but my father was rather anti-twostroke & he was guaranteeing the bank loan, so the Honda it was. £600-and-something at two years old with 10K on the odo when I bought it - my '72 CD175 was sold to a lad up the road for £120 cash IIRC (he was done ! ).


The only two Instamatic snaps I have of it - probably after being washed on the day I got rid of it. It suffered from persistant carb overflow problems + the usual early Honda four issues of loosing sparks in the wet & the regular caliper pivot seizures. It came with the Honda branded Rickman panniers & I fitted the matching fairing. Some years later I found out that the first owner was the local Star Rider Training Advanced Examiner - and he had had persistant carb overflow issues with it from new until he p/xed it at the dealer I bought it from.

A school friend had a CB500T of the same age & colour & I would have gladly done a straight swap - the late 500 twin is generally not as well regarded as the four, but I found it to be a far nicer bike to ride. Probably the first inkling that I am very much a "twins" rider - didn't gel with any of the subsequent "fours" either.

I dabbled in trials for a few years from the late '80s to mid '90s, riding mainly in Spen Vally Club trials. First bike was a Rotax engined SWM 320 twin shock, followe by a Rotax engined Armstrong 280 monoshock, a JCM 240 Europa monshock & finally a Honda TRL250 twin shock. When the Honda was stolen, I gave up.

Best I managed was 3rd place in the club "Beginners" series one year, but the step up to "Novices" was a step too far & I just ended up hurting myself and /or damaging the bike. The Honda was supposed to have been to have a try at the "Pre-65 & Twin shock" class, but it was nicked before I had chance to do a trial.

Nigel B.

Thread: approximate budget for CNC mill/Drill?
24/12/2020 14:28:43

may I ask how you found a mill in that condition?

Luck - right place, right time.

My former employer's son started buying CNC machine tools to break for their control and drive parts. Small Japanese, Taiwanese & Korean vertical machining centres were the usual purchases from auctions - all the control parts, axis & spindle drives and motors were removed and the carcasses sold for scrap. He had no interest in any of the mechanical bits, or tooling (usually some flavour of ISO40). Most of the machines came from failed company closure sales & were frequently still tooled for the last job they made. I used to pop the tools out of the carousels & eventually got a couple of hundred, which we did sell to a tool dealer for a pound or so each IIRC

One such purchase was the Triac. I did a deal with him that I would remove the parts he wanted (a couple of lunch breaks) & he wanted £100 for the rest. It has been is storage for several years & came home this year when the storage was NLA. I had to completely strip the machine to bring it home & I have started to clean up the parts to get it back together again.

WRT the 3D printer - you can make parts up to the table size on those as you don't need to take account of the cutter dimensions & workholding requirements working around a part, unlike a milling machine. And you will probably also (probably unknowingly) be using GRBL, as I understand that GRBL is at the heart of many 3D printer control boards movement control.

For me that main disadvantage of using GRBL is the lack of tool radius compensation. This will make using some form of CAM package a necessity on anything other than very simple parts. I see that FreeCad (which I am using after a fashion for 3D printed parts design) has a CAM module built in, so will probably try that initially. Fusion 360 is the usual recommendation for part design & CAM, but I will have to upgrade computer to use that and FreeCad works on the current one.

As you have a 3D printer, how about 3D printing a GRBL controlled Dremel spindle router for a low cost "toe in the water" ?

Nigel B.

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