Here is a list of all the postings HasBean has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2013)|
Nothing spectacular but I finally got around to sorting out my ER16 chuck;
and cobbled together a rudimentary coolant system;
so I feel that I've at least achieved something today
|Thread: Myford Gearbox and Metric/BA|
The maximun size gear I can fit is 35, just!
I did sit down (must've been bored) and knock up a spreadsheet with various gears from 20 to 35 teeth and the outcomes using the gearbox threadcutting and fine feed options. As John says just a couple of gears cover most metric and BA pitches to within a gnats.
|Thread: HH and ER32 collet holders (MEW195)|
Maybe just me but I have found an ever so small burr on the edges of some of the slits of my collets which I have had to stone off in order to improve concentricity.
Must add that these collets have come from several different sources.
|Thread: Unknown Tool|
It's an expandable pipe reamer (of the smoking kind).
|Thread: Tap Chuck ?|
Is this **LINK** the one?
|Thread: The Cambridge Turning Trials|
The CCGT-AK insert is available in two different grades, H01 for aluminium (I've tried the Greenwood version of this on steel with reasonable results), and PC9030 for stainless which I'm guessing replaces PC230 which I found the best so far on steel.
Andrew, The inserts that gave the best finish at low depths of cut were Korloy inserts from Cutwel. Basically I ordered one of just about all of them to try. I found that the PVD coated inserts worked much better than the CVD coated ones and the best of the lot were CCGT-AK inserts in grade PC230 (which don't seem to be listed in their new catalogue, only in DCGT style).
The AK chipbreaker seems to be identical to the high rake aluminium style inserts but work better on steel.
Firsly, apologies to Andrew for hijacking this thread but I thought this was the best place for this rather than start another!
Pictures below are on a piece of unknown BMS (originally 35mm
Only 2 feeds used, 2 thou and 10 thou, depths 1/2 thou and 5 thou, speeds 600rpm and 1800 rpm, all mixed and matched but with a smear of neat cutting fluid applied first..
My deductions are that I'm more confused now than before!
Undoubtably rigidity has a lot to do with it as the inserts just scraped on the surface making a right mess, speed, depth, feed, nothing made any difference.
But chipbreaker form did!
The middle section was using a high positive rake insert, 1/2 thou depth at 600 rpm. My diamond toolholder turned the 'ring' at the righthand side end (finish is better than it looks in the picture) but high rake on a less rigid machine seems to be the answer for me at least as far as surface finish is concerned.
(I also now have a decent collection of about 15 different types of 0.4mm CCMT inserts)
|Thread: Lathe & Mill|
Not much more I can add to the advice above but the market for second hand machines over here is (in my experience) virtually non-existant.
I bit the bullet years ago and had an Axminster 918 (identical to a warco 920 but had a myford threaded spindle). This worked fine for me to learn on and after a few years I bought a Super 7 but this was all done 'blind' so to speak. i don't think there has been a ME club over here for many years now so as you say it's not as easy as just popping down the road to have a look.
If I can help with anything at all just PM me.
Paul (also in Jersey )
|Thread: soba centre square|
Just tried mine which is a 'Groz' product. Oops, that's way out too.
Still, as I've had mine for at least a couple pf years and not needed/used it (seemed like a good idea at the time) I think I'll just put it down to experience!
|Thread: New blocks on the kid ?|
After waiting several months to compile an order just days later, after I submit it, something else I'd like turns up!
Never mind, here comes another order Ketan
|Thread: Tool Holders|
Sounds like the slot for the tool has been milled in the wrong place?
|Thread: What cutting tools for mini - lathe (HSS or Carbide Tipped ?)|
I've found much the same as you have. I know the 'silver' inserts are designated as for aluminium and non ferrous but, used with care, I'm very pleased with the finish they produce on steel.
I now have two holders, one with each insert, for general purpose and for finishing.
(But I still really like my tangential tool as well )
|Thread: Tool Holders|
Food for thought there. My toolblock came from Axminster many moons ago but I have a mix of Myford, Toolmex and Chronos and RDG supplied toolholders.
I must check to see what size tools are in my Myford holders although I've not had any problems with 10mm/ 3/8" tools so far.
I used these holders with 1/2" tools when I had my 918 lathe but had to change to 10mm when I bought my Super7
Unusual, my (non Myford) tool block doesn't overhang the topslide but I have no problems using 10mm tooling in RDG toolholders.
I have one of their toolholders with the base relieved for 1/2"/12mm tools which also fits ok, albeit though you cannot rotate the tool block as the toolholder now drops below the edge of the topslide.
|Thread: Myford Saddle Stop - Hemingway|
Thanks for the info gents.
Adrian, I'm starting to quake in my boots now at the thought of this but thank you very much for providing light at the end of the tunnel!
Norman, good luck with it as I'm certain that you'll end up with something far superior to whatever mishmash I end up with.
My instructions are 2009 also but on page 1 under 'The Guide Rail'
"....the Guide Rail can remain permanently in place - it's proportions allowing the saddle and rack gears to pass over without hindrance. On some lathes however (notably power cross feed models and those with re-ground beds), this is not possible and the rail must be removed after use."
This is a bit of a b****r if that's the case. There must be a way of altering the rail to make it fit somehow, or possibly make it easier to remove rather than bolting/unbolting all the time.
However this 'project' is lower on the list at the moment, I have to finish my knurling tool first which I started when my daughter was born (she was 13 last week
Typically I've found this post having just received my saddle stop kit.
In the instructions it mentions that the 'T' bar needs to be removed when not in use if you have a power cross feed model
Have either of you gents found a way around this ?
|Thread: Material suppliers|
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