Here is a list of all the postings HasBean has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Knurling Wheel 'Pins'|
Thanks for all the replies gents,
I like the idea of dowel pins but as I'd like to be able to swap the knurls for different types I wonder if they'd become loose over a period of time? (Also I haven't found anyone yet who sells imperial pins that will post to Jersey).
I do have both silver steel and phosphor bronze so if you think that either of those will do I'll probably go down that route, I wasn't sure if un-hardened silver steel would be up to it (my resident blowtorch has died and the household financial controller has deemed it to be low on the priority list)!
Once again thanks for the replies,
Gents, after a bit of advice here.
I started making a Hemmingway knurling tool shortly after my daughter was born and seeing she starts her A level courses next week I thought it was time to get on and finish it!
I'm at the stage of making the pins that the knurls rotate on but can't decide on what to make them out of.
The plans call for hardened silver steel but I have heard (can't remember where from) that this may not be a good idea? Also I've read of them being made from 'plain' silver steel, old threaded endmill shanks (already threaded the frames so don't really want to try that), ordinary mild steel or bronze (I presume phosphor bronze).
It won't get a huge amount of use but I'd rather that I'd not have to make up new pins on a regular basis
Any suggestions would be much appreciated,
|Thread: Myford ML7 Quick change tool post|
I have seven toolholders sitting on my bench from two different suppliers, none of which properly fit my (Bison) toolpost.
I didn't realise they didn't fit until I needed one but milling 1mm off the rear faces fixes the issue of the cam tightening up the holder.
I have had a couple I believe were from A&R, these fitted perfectly.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
I was lucky enough to get the Christmas period off this time (first in 8 years or so) and finally managed to fit my new chuck I got for my birthday back in May so I'm a happy bunny now
That's the second time in two years I've been able to finish something, this beginning to be a habit
|Thread: Vertical Shear Lathe Tooling|
I ground this one up a few years ago
I seem to think it worked well enough but I gave up with it for reasons I can't remember
I might give it another whirl now the topic has resurfaced.
|Thread: windscreen washer pumps|
I'm using a facet 12v fuel pump feeding neat cutting fluid, works fine for me.
|Thread: Myford Tailstock Rack Feed|
Mine doesn't have any markings on the barrel but the dial is in mm.
I had to fit the shim between the locking collar and the rear of the tailstock. What was happening was when the collar was tightened the body of the rackfeed was twisting slightly to the rear and causing the barrel to bind, the shim stopped this and left the barrel free to slide.
|Thread: Cowell sensitive tailstock attachment|
I've got the attachment for the Super 7 and don't have any issues with it, actually I find it invaluable. Size of the tailstock aside by the photos it doesn't appear any larger.
|Thread: What metal could this be?|
Thought it was familiar, I worked for Burroughs Machines which then acquired/merged with Sperry to become Unisys.
Ahh disk pack drives, that takes me back. Had loads of these and used to maintain them back in the early eighties. Ours had two spindles per 300Kg cabinet which took multi platter disks with a whopping 65Mb (unformatted) capacity. They had six heads including a servo head and it was always the wires on the servo head that went so you then had to align the flippin lot of them from scratch!
We did have a couple of Winchester drives over here but I'm afraid I have no idea on the construction, ours were made in either Scotland or Detroit. I do remember that you had to regularly check what they called the Christmas Tree, a bunch of resistors in parallel and series, which affected head alignment and occasionally drifted.
Les, yours looks very similar to the ones that were sold by Memorex, never had the pleasure (?) of working on those.
|Thread: Using Riffler Files - HOW>|
I have at least two packets of these. Tried to use one once, made a complete mess of the job, put it back in the drawer for 'future use'
|Thread: DRO/Electrical Question|
Right Gents, just an update.
Firstly I'd like to thank you all for the info and advice, it was very much appreciated.
I've finally managed to get the display almost stable. It now flickers occasionally but only by 0.01mm, which I can certainly live with, as there's no way I can machine to that accuracy in the first place!
The fix, however, you can pick and choose from the following items across the scale battery terminals;
1000mF electrolytic cap, 1F supercapacitor or a rechargeable 2032 cell. Any one of these stabilises the display (almost).
I just wish I knew why it was doing it and why fitting the normal CR2032 cell it 'fixes' it
|Thread: Outstanding Service|
I placed an order with ARC early one morning which, due to my location, came up with a POA on the postage. Lunchtime that day I had a call from Ian with the price of the postage which I thought was perfectly acceptable and agreed the order.
The following day I had an email from Parcelforce with a tracking number and just a couple of days later my new 4 jaw s/c chuck with soft jaws and backplate arrived just in time for my wife to give me for my birthday (I wonder how she knew?)
A usual no connections, just a very satisfied customer.
|Thread: DRO/Electrical Question|
The 2032 battery was out of the scale and the power was being supplied by the remote display. On pulling out the cable from the display the scale works for approximately 8 secs before powering off.
I've got some 1F electrolytics on order so well see what happens when they arrive.
Right, I've isolated it to the scale. If I yank out the 'usb' display cable the scale stays powered up for roughly 8 secs during which it still fluctuates.
I've tried various size electrolytics across the battery terminals but it doesn't make any difference.
I wonder what quality a 2032 cell has that causes the display to be stable? I might stick a resistor in the circuit out of interest.
I've got to the stage where I'm not so much worried about fixing it as to more intrigued why it's not working properly!
Sorry I think I may have confused matters with my one line comments (was my birthday yesterday so still running on wine fumes).
2. The remote display is powered by an external switched mode supply (6v I think, can't get to it at the moment to check as it's stuck behind my mig welder). Changing to internal AAA batteries, alkaline (it can take either batteries or external power) makes no difference
3. See 2
4. No, fitting the 2032 back into the scale fixes the problem but I don't want to leave it there if the remote display is supplying a voltage to it.
5. By replacing the battery I just meant putting it back into the scale.
Regardless of the type of power source to the remote display the reading 'drifts' unless I place the 2032 cell back into the scale which, from what I've learned from the above posts, appears to be a bad thing if a voltage is being supplied to it by the display.
Thanks very much for your help.
The scale takes a single 3v 2032 cell. The voltage at the scale terminals is 1.7v regardless of the display being on or off. As the display can be powered by batteries or external power I've removed the external psu from the equation by fitting batteries, 2x AAA, to the display with the same result.
I did fit a 200nF tantalum cap across the scale terminals last night but that didn't make any difference. I have got a few electrolytics but at much higher values but I don't know if that's worth a try?
Hopefully there should be a couple of pictures below, if not they'll be in my album.
Thank you all very much for your help,
Thanks for all the replies and advice. I put a meter across the battery terminals and get 1.2v so the remote is putting out a voltage across the battery so that's coming out, strange that there was no mention of this with the remote displays instructions.
As general consensus is to put a capacitor across the battery terminals that's what I'm going to try first (I think I have a bag of mixed ceramics hidden somewhere that I couldn't bring myself to throw away)
I'll let you know how it goes.
After my original Z axis readout died on my mill/drill I fitted a new 6" vertical scale and a remote display as the scale display was rather hard to see where it's sited.
I found that when switched on the remote display powered the read out so I dispensed with the battery however the display now 'drifts'. You can zero it, turn your back and it's changed, re-zero it turn your back changes again!
I initially thought it was binding somehow but that's not the case. If I replace the battery in the readout the drifting stops. Now that's all well and good but with everything switched off any accidental movement of the quill switches on the readout for X number of minutes and eventually the battery drains and starts to drift again without you realising.
I was wondering if anyone had come across this or had any ideas of a fix/workaround.
|Thread: Warco Major MD30B Power cutting out|
I have a Warco MD30N which sort of fitted in between the economy mill/drill and the major.
After a couple of years this also started to switch off after a few minutes. Turned out that the on/off switches, which were on the front above the depth stop, were getting warm, arcing and causing the over current on the motor to trip.
I ended up fitting an external NVR switch and used the existing cabling to fit a reversing switch, no trouble since.
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