Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
15.5mm will probably be the nearest standard metric drill available.
Drilling 15.5mm the reaming 16mm will be perfectly OK. Less than 15.5 mm will not be desirable.
Where possible I prefer to bore the hole before reaming, I would drill 15mm, bore to 15.7mm them ream 16mm using cutting fluid when reaming steel.
|Thread: Floor covering|
Originally I painted my concrete floor with industrial floor paint, after a few years the paint was very worn and concrete dust was becoming a problem.
I sealed all the worn areas and covered the entire floor with these interlocking tiles, I have found these very durable and comfortable, in my view worth the effort and money.
|Thread: Really Silly Question - rpm facing off large diameters|
I think maybe Neil is referring to feeding across the work face manually, not on auto feed. So if you increase the rpm you have to turn the feed screw faster to maintain the feed rate in thou's/rev.
|Thread: Free Plastic|
I am waiting patiently, no hurry. Very much appreciate your time and effort, this is very generous of you.
|Thread: Drill deep hole so on a lathe. I|
Jason is referring to Model Engineer magazine, not Model Engineers Workshop.
|Thread: HSS cutting speed calculation|
That makes sense now and useful to know.
The article needs a revision.
I was reading through Practical Engineer part 1 article on this forum regarding cutting speeds but I am a bit confused.
The article states:
1" x 375 = 375 RPM for steel
1/2" x 375 = 188 RPM for steel
1/8" x 375 = 47 RPM for steel
What am I missing?
Edited By tractionengine42 on 10/08/2014 07:16:13
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Very interesting hat posts, It's amazing the very diverse things you can learn on this forum.
I've only ever worn a woolly pompom hat. Soon I hope to be steaming my 3" scale Allchin traction engine, so that may be time for a suitable hat or cap.
The 1-1/2" scale drawing show a dummy displacement lubricator, for my 3" scale I decided to make a working version. Finished it over the weekend, here's the parts and the finished item fitted to the engine. Turned out quite well I think.
|Thread: Making A bolt for my motocycle|
En57T is a high tensile stainless that is commonly used. it's no more difficult to machine than En16T/En24T and of similar strength. I bought some from M Machine, some other ME suppliers also supply this material.
Edit - I have not had any problem cutting threads using standard high speed steel dies using a good cutting lubricant. For turning I have used carbide tools but high speed steel can be used at low speed.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 22/07/2014 08:35:44
|Thread: WM 16 Milling Vice|
I am very happy with a 3 inch SOBA bought from Chronos about 10 years ago.
I have no connection with Chronos .
Edited By tractionengine42 on 19/07/2014 21:43:12
|Thread: Eccentric strap slack|
Any millage/benefit converting to white metal?
They would need boring out over size, cast in the white metal, re-bore to finished size. For small bearings could the white metal be tinned onto the bearing surface in the manor you tin solder?
Just a thought.
PS. some white bearing metal here
Edited By tractionengine42 on 14/07/2014 21:53:59
|Thread: 3 ph motor conversion to VFD, any issues?|
I have decided to change the motor on the mill to the one given to me by a friend complete with a VFD. Then their shouldn't be any power issues.
I have a Drummond model B lathe that I would like to get set up (some day). Now that I know I can run the old mill motor via a VFD with a base frequency set at 29Hz without modification, I will keep it for use on this lathe. Even running at reduces revs and possible lower power the old mill motor will be more than an acceptable match for the Drummond lathe.
I think this has turned out very well for my purpose.
Thanks again everyone that posted.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Neil, that layout look very impressive, As posted by Bazyle it's interesting to see a different aspect of model making. The weathering on that little workshop in the last photo looks realistic, it wouldn't be sir John's domain by any chance?
|Thread: 3 ph motor conversion to VFD, any issues?|
Thanks for the fascinating and helpful information, it opens up some interesting options, and I have learnt a great deal form your responses.
I took the motor apart but I could not confidently identify what internal wires to change to convert it to Delta, I will ask a motor rewind company what it will cost for them to do the job.
I don't have any preference as to whether or not to keep the existing switch gear or do the extra work of changing it to suit a new set up. The main aim is to get the machine running using as much of what I already have as possible, hence the desire to use the existing motor. In this respect Stuart's information concerning the base frequency set to 29Hz is very attractive.
However, a new development. I have been given an Inverter and motor, the motor is 1.1 kW dual voltage and the inverter in 230v 3ph output. Using this will involve boring out the pulley and putting in a new keyway and adding the control switches etc.
At the moment my preference is to use the existing motor and either follow Stuarts suggestion or have it changed to delta configuration, I can use the gifted inverter for this. The gifted motor would however give more power though for my use I don't really see the need, I still have the belt change to use when higher torque is needed.
Any further suggestion very welcome.
Thanks again to everyone.
I bought an Elliott Victoria horizontal mill advertised on this forum, lovely machine.
It has a 1 hp 3 ph 440v only motor (not dual voltage), I only have domestic single phase.
The wire connections are buried in the motor winding, I assume that a motor rewind company could convert it to delta connection?
My question is; if this motor is converted to delta would there be any issues running it from a 3ph 220v output Variable frequency drive? or would I be better off using a dual voltage rated motor.
Appreciate any recommendation form though with electrical knowledge.
|Thread: Warco BH600G Saddle and Cross-slide power feed|
Similar to Bazyle's link, I fitted 2 stepped belts via 4 stepped pulley's bypassing all the gears and giving about a 2:1 reduction which has proven to be a huge advantage for surface finish.. For screw cutting it takes only seconds to remove the belts and engage the gears.
A worthwhile benefit was the reduction in noise, the belts run very quite as compared to the gears. The dis-advantage of my set up is that, because the gear tumbler reverse is by-passed by the belts, my longitudinal feed is only towards the chuck and cross feed only inwards, I have not found this any real problem, if power feed in the other directions is needed then the belts have to be removed and gears engaged.
|Thread: Machining Bevel Gears|
I was also a little confused about that statement. so in my own words: -
The pinions are sandwiched between the 2 gears, for both gear teeth to mesh with the pinion teeth the pinion teeth for each pinion will need to be orientated to the same angular orientation and therefore the ratio of teeth between the gears and pinions must be divisible by 3.
If the number of teeth on the gear is not divisible by 3, then the angular orientation of each pinions teeth will be at different angular positions therefore, the second gear cannot mesh with all the pinions.
|Thread: high tensile stainless steel|
British spec 431S29T (En57T) is a high tensile Martensitic st st and easy enough to machine. Strength is similar to En24T alloy steel. I bought some from M-Machine a while ago.
Also ASTM 654-630 17/4 PH available in various grades is high strength but may be difficult to find in small sizes and qty.
I can't say for sure if these would have any issues with you application.
|Thread: BA, ME, Metric Coarse or Imperial : which taps and dies to buy ?|
It's worth investing in good quality taps and dies. I have found that the quality of ME taps and dies in carbon steel is generally poor and I have had difficulties getting good fitting threads using these. I no longer waste my time using these.
As a result I now only buy good quality HSS taps and dies, To keep my cost down I try to stay with UNF, and on larger sizes UNEF, for fine threads and BA for small threads. For general use I use metric course. Metric fine would be a good alternative to UNF.
Mostly I am using 10 to 0 BA sizes, UNF 1/4" to 3/4" and UNEF 3/8" to 3/4" and rarely use anything else. Where metric or ME sizes are specified I will substitute with these.
I find by sticking to this philosophy good quality brand tools can be bought at relatively good prices.
Maybe others have had better experiences with ME taps and dies and can recommend a good quality source at reasonable prices.
FYI here's UNEF thread range which I find very useful.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/04/2014 08:02:45
|Thread: Drilling hardened steel - drill supplier|
Thanks everyone for you help and suggestions. Some good reference for future similar problems. I was very surprised to find left hand drills on ebay, so a few sizes are on my wish as 'will be useful someday' tool kit accessories.
I visited my friend today to have a look, the broken stud and stud extraction tool is in a cylinder head where the exhaust manifold bolts on. He doesn't want to take the cylinder head off to try and fix the problem. Access is tight so it's difficult to get weight onto a pistol drill for drilling hardened steel using a modified masonry or tungsten drill.
We decided it would be best to take it gently and get a small diamond burr and 5mm diamond coated core drill. The plan is to use the diamond burr to flatten and dimple the end of the broken stud/stud extractor. It's hoped that said dimple will help centralise the core drill which will follow.
My friend has also bought a set Frhei drill bits for drilling hardened steel in case they may be useful at some future date.
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