Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Importing a Tormach mill|
Andrew did pm me with some details.
I have contacted the advertiser on here with an offer but as I am working in Singapore for the next few weeks I can't collect any purchase until December
From Quingdao Port, China to Aberdeenshire.
Tormach website says they can arrange freight or I can arrange myself. I've not made any enquiries yet, I'm interested in what others experiences are and what they would recommend.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 02/11/2015 15:04:53
For those with experience importing a Tormach pcnc mill, any recommended does and don'ts, any rough idea what freight cost I could expect?
|Thread: rev counter for lathe|
I bought one of these but haven't installed it yet so can't say how reliable it is.
|Thread: Subscriptions through site offline?|
After my ME paper subscription ended I subscribed to the digital edition last week, an email advised my subscription number will be sent by post, that was disappointing, I expected almost immediate access, but I still haven't received it.
My MEW paper subscription ends in 2016, but I have not received the last edition.
I had not realised there was to be a change in the subscription provider, I guess I will give it a week to let things settle down in the hope it will sort it's self out.
|Thread: Clapper box|
Here's some pictures of the clapper box I have, It's 4" long x 2-3/4" wide. Its got surface rust though I think it will clean up nicely. Please send me a PM if you want it and I will find out the postage cost.
There is some play on the pin, probably this will need replacing and the through hole trued up, the pin measures 7/16" parallel so could be made 12mm.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 29/08/2015 18:36:35
|Thread: How to change M12 to 1/2" BSW drawbar thread?|
I've just completed a mod on my I/2 " BSW draw bar to accept arbours with M12, M10 and 3/8 BSW.
My captive draw bar is easy to remove, so I cut the end off and drilled and tapped it M8, then I made adapters to screw in. The pics show the before and after.
This does require the draw bar to be removed each time a different threaded arbour is used, If that's not acceptable then the same mod could be done but with the adaptors made to screw tight into the arbour, just provide a flange to tighten up against.
I did notice some arbours require a longer draw bar by 3/4"
|Thread: Torque wrench testing|
I though the following might be of interest as it's relevant to torque tightening.
Torque wrench calibration is one thing but out of calibration tools are not the main source of error when tightening a bolt to a pre defined load.
A higher proportion of the torque value is needed to overcome friction between the mating threads and the underside of the nut in contact with the joint/washer known as the Spot face. This friction has to be known/controlled to get close to a predefined bolt load. This friction can be controlled by using a suitable lubricant or anti-seize compound.
Therefore, a specified torque value should always be accompanied with the lubricant to be used.
M12 grade 10.9 bolt to be torque tightened to a bolt load of 70kN.
Using KS Paul Easyrun 100 (low co-efficient of friction lubricant) Torque value = 98Nm to achieve 70kN bolt load
Using KS Paul PBC (higher co-efficient of friction lubricant) Torque value = 167Nm to achieve 70 kN bolt load
For this example I have chosen to commonly used lubricants used in industry that are at the opposite ends of the co-efficient of friction scale. It can be seen that if you were given a torque value of 167 Nm but used Easyrun 100 to lubricate the threads and nut spot face you would dangerously overload the bolt. Vice-versa will apply resulting in a bolt seriously under loaded bolt and perhaps subject to eventual failure due to fatigue under cyclic loading.
To summarise, a torque value without a specified lubricant is meaningless and therefore, so will be the torque wrench calibration. The correct bolt preparation is an essential part of the process.
|Thread: Clapper box|
I have a clapper box form an unknown shaper which is of no use to me. It's smaller than the one on my 10" Elliott shaper so perhaps could be about the right size for you.
I am working overseas right now, if your still interested, when I get back home next week I will PM you the details so you can see if it meets your requirements.
|Thread: Tiny grinder|
I bought one if these grinders a few years back and personally would not recommend it. In my experience it would not be suitable for grinding up lathe tools from 6mm or 8mm HSS tool bits other than sharpening an existing profile. It will cope OK with 3mm or 4mm tool bits and sharpening drills up to about 6mm.
For it's size it is quite powerful, it has a variable speed control which to me seems of no benefit on a grinder. I was disappointed with mine, during a longish grinding session mine stopped working, I resume there is a fault on the speed control board, I have been meaning to see if I can re-wire it to bypass this board but till now it remains under the bench.
ARC sell some 40mm diamond coated discs, maybe these combined with a small motor could make a neat little grinder but for 6 - 8 mm tool bits I would recommend a 6" grinder as others have and find a way store it away when not in use.
|Thread: Workshop Flooring|
My originally painted my workshop floor, after a few years some areas were badly worn and getting very dusty.
I covered the entire floor with this vinyl flooring. Mine is a hard vinyl as opposed to a foam vinyl also advertised. It's not solid, the underside has a honeycomb hollow pattern,
My Elliott Junior mill stands on this without any problem, just some 3/4" ply to spread the load. It cleans very easily and so far, (3 years) is not showing much sign of wear.
There are circular and chequer patterns as well.
I am very happy with it and would use it again, it's not much trouble to lay other than having to move workshop stuff around to clear floor space.
Usual disclaimer - no connection with the advertiser linked above.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 08/06/2015 12:02:54
Edited By tractionengine42 on 08/06/2015 12:04:59
|Thread: Electrical question re transformers|
I have only made a tentative look so far and found equivalent toroidal transformers @ 104 GBP from Maplin for 3 off. I thought that I could perhaps get away with a single transformer at a lower cost something like a 36v 0v 36v with would give 72vac but then it would have to be around 700va.
I was wondering if 60v ac would be OK as there seems to be a better choice of transformers, but the cost doesn't appear to work out any cheaper for a single large transformer. Ben does say 50vac should be workable i.e. 2 of his transformers instead of 3.
Anyway, I will be looking further and will let you know.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 05/06/2015 13:50:14
Thanks everyone for your reassuring and informative responses.
At the risk of showing how dumb I an at electrics, I have a question regarding ratings of transformers connected in series.
If I have 2 transformers 12v 1amp they are rated 12 x 1 =12 VA?
If I connect them in series I get 24v. Will the current rating be the same? so I end up with an ac power supply of 24 VA?
I expect the current rating cannot increase because the wire gauge on the winding can't change.
Reference the following diagram.
The reason for my question is that I am looking at Ben Fleming's pulse EDM, he uses 3 off 24v 10 amp transformers in series to get 72v. I was wondering if I could replace these with say a single 75v 750VA transformer, or 2off x 36v 350va transformers? I don't at present know if this approach would be OK, available or cheaper, just an idea.
Thanks in advance.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 04/06/2015 16:52:56
Edited By tractionengine42 on 04/06/2015 16:54:03
|Thread: Etching Brass and Photoresist|
I could not get a dense enough print from my laser printer, I ended up using 2 prints carefully superimposed on one another, this gave much better results.
It took me several tries to get an acceptable etch, I found the photoresist thickness, UV light exposure time and image blackness (+ a bit of luck) are all variables affecting a good result. when developing I found it helpful to carefully clean the surface with a soft brush.
|Thread: gauge glass valve design|
Thanks Jason, that's great, by the looks of it not a great deal to it, I guess allot depends upon getting the right fit for the insert and spindle.
I steam tested my 3" Allchin for the first time last Friday and found the valves leaking a little. I had suspected this might happen and, although they don't leak much, I doubt they will pass a hydraulic test for boiler certification. I intend giving PTFE inserts a try.
Many model designs show a tapered plug type valve design for gauge glass valves etc. However, many suppliers specify gauge glass valves having PTFE inserts, I was wondering if anyone could elaborate on the design of such valves with a view to making my own.
|Thread: 3" Scale Allchin|
Here's some pics of my engine, Once the blanking plugs are painted black I think they will not be very noticeable, as you said you could disguise then as a dummy mud lid instead of have them on the corner which would provide a better appearance.
Hope this helps.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 17/04/2015 11:57:25
I've just finished my 3" Allchin.
I made the dummy throat plate flush with the washout plug bushes, didn't find any problems as a consequence.
If you wish I can take a photo and up load it here.
Also Bonnie Scotland (Alford)
|Thread: Simple way to control nema stepper motor|
I've not used it so can't provide any feed back.
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