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Member postings for tractionengine42

Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Heartbroken!
16/08/2019 15:54:49

I broke a 7 BA tap in a blind hole the other day, I managed to grind away the tap using a small diamond coated burrs with a Dremel. I basically ground away the centre portion of the tap after initially grinding the top surface reasonably flat to get a good start. I used a fine pointed burr and a very small spherical burr, alternating between the two.

I did this with the aid of a desk illuminated desk magnifying glass.

It took 15 - 20 minutes and I was surprised how well the it went. 8ba is a little smaller though but I think manageable by this method.


Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019
04/08/2019 19:00:09

My 5"g Lion Boiler is progressing, I'm finding silver soldering this mass of copper very challenging but I think I've done an OK job even though some looks a bit messy, soon find out on the hydrostatic test, fingers crossed. Hope to be finished this boiler in a couple of weeks.

boiler front.jpg

boiler rear.jpg

boiler side.jpg

The drawings show a square manhole on the boiler dome and I initially machined, drilled and tapped the dome casting accordingly.

dome sq.jpg

However, the loco in the Museum of Liverpool has a round manhole on the boiler dome.

lion cover.jpg

I decided to modify my dome casting to resemble the full size loco. I bored out the dome casting, machined up a ring and silver soldered it in place. One benefit is that I can use a silicon 'O'ring as a seal.

dome rd2.jpg

dome rd1.jpg

I'll be allot happier when I can get back to machining parts rather than very nerve racking silver soldering.


Thread: Timesaver - which grades?
11/07/2019 11:07:18
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 11/07/2019 10:56:24

My experience is much depends on the start point. If there are deep scratches then it's quicker to start coarse and step methodically down through all the grades. Conversely, when the lathe delivers a good surface from the get go, it's not smart to make extra work by spoiling it with a coarse grit!

The goal is to never use a fine grit to remove a significant amount of metal. As it takes forever, fine grades are best kept for finishing only.


Good point, when lapping I think it's beneficial aim for a smooth machined finish from which to start lapping.


Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/07/2019 11:07:45

10/07/2019 15:22:14

I've lapped in bronze half bearings and only used the fine (yellow) grade and it quickly smoothed out the machining marks on a 3/4" diameter bearing, that said I think you will be ok with medium and fine for your application, you may be surprised at the rate of metal removal.

I used Medium Green on steel gears on my 3" traction engine, it worked a treat with only one application, made them smooth and much quieter.

Time saver is not like conventional lapping compounds, it does not embed into metals so won't embed into either of the components, it disintegrates and can then be washed/cleaned off.


Thread: Beamish Museum
08/07/2019 09:29:01

There's also some interesting old machines at the Tanfield Railway workshops (not far from Beamish) including a small planer, (though it's been a few years since i visited). Not been to Beamish for 20 years, I think a visit is on the cards.


Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019
30/05/2019 08:47:24

Thanks Duncan. Your recollection is correct, I have an ME article 21st Dec 1973 that gives corrections to the 5"g valve gear.


29/05/2019 10:41:04

Started a new project, 5"g Lion. These are the boiler parts ready for the dreaded silver soldering, I'm tackling the boiler first as that is the biggest challenge for me, if I can achieve this then I can finish the engine.

I'm generally following the LBSC drawings but using photo's I took of the full size engine in the Liverpool City museum to add detail.

lion boiler parts 2.jpg


Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
02/04/2019 10:32:17


Could be hydrogen embrittlement, higher strength/hardness materials are more susceptible. I'm not an expert but basically the material absorbs hydrogen atoms which results in material becoming very susceptible to brittle failure and unable to sustain it's normal/design loads.

It can be cured buy heating the component over several hours at something like 200 deg but must be done very soon after the hydrogen embrittlement occurs, If not done in time then the heat treatment is not effective.

It's normal practice for High tensile components to have hydrogen enbrittlement prevention heat treatment done after various plating processes etc were the material may have absorbed hydrogen atoms.


Edited By tractionengine42 on 02/04/2019 10:33:17

Thread: Huloo from North East Scotland
17/03/2019 10:25:53

Hi Roy

I'm not that far from you, just west of Alford.

Good to hear of another enthusiast in the NE Scotland. I am a member of the Aberdeen Model Engineering Society.

I did set up a face book page "here" as a place for local enthusiasts to communicate, but so far not done much to promote it, the little promotion I did didn't get any interest, but am keeping the page open for a while longer and maybe enough people may become interested in time.

Anyway, enjoy your new mill, it's exiting getting new tools and learning new skills, and it's great to share our home shop/modeling activity.


Thread: What did you do Today 2018
07/12/2018 13:58:44

Andrew, I'm using a 0.2mm/20 deg point carbide engraving cutter at 20k rpm.


07/12/2018 10:59:07

Another small name plate done on my home converted cnc mill. Very happy with this result.

10 v plate.jpg


Thread: Mach 3 doesnt see UC100 contoller
07/12/2018 10:43:44

I'm using a uc300 with mach 3 on a windows 7 desktop computer. I had consistent problems with the UC300 disconnecting in the middle of a job and tried all sorts to resolve it. Then i realised the problem only occurred when I had the radio on, never had any problem since having the radio off while the cnc is running.

At first I thought it might be coincidence but after many months of reliable operation it seems to have been the problem. Presumably the radio is putting out some electrical noise.

Probably not related to your problem but thought I'd mention it.



Edited By tractionengine42 on 07/12/2018 10:49:12

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
25/11/2018 20:11:46

Thanks Neil, A blob of paint on the '8' will be too much, probably a tiny spec of paint will fix it, LOL.

BTW, that brick work on your model also looks fantastic.


25/11/2018 17:35:39

Great looking engine Neil.

Today I was going to etch a small name plate for my Stuart 10V, I had good success previously with etching. Then decided give it a go on my home converted cnc mill, Very happy with the result though some improvements can be made for next time, done with a 0.2mm pcb carbide engraving cutter at 20k rpm.

!0v name plate.jpg


09/11/2018 19:42:14

I have a futrure project that requires spiral milling so today I have been busy converting a Drummond lathe head stock into a spiral milling attachment for my mill.

The first photo shows the head stock straight from the lathe. I stripped it down and machines the pulley casting, (which includes a gear for the back gear) then shrunk fitted and aluminium sleeve. The Aluminium sleeve was turned and milled to take a T5 timing belt, see second photo.

The plan is to use timing belts to get a drive from the mill lead screw. I think using the Drummond lathe head stock has benefits in that I can drive it in its high gear or in back gear. In backgear it gives me a 9:1 reduction not an ideal figure. The first job will require a 10:1 , so will use the back gear and have a small reduction from the lead screw using toothed belts.

The last photo shows the Drummond head stock converted, now I need to arrange for an intermediate shaft between the mill lead screw and the Drummond lathe head stock, that's tomorrows job, details to follow.

headstock 1.jpg

timing pulley milling.jpg

timing pulley finished.jpg

headstock modified..jpg


08/11/2018 16:58:23
Posted by Circlip on 05/11/2018 10:14:02:

Nigel, Triumph 5T adaptors, Is the head normally threaded or did that have to be done too? Venom Clubman has a pushed in spigot (REALLY bad idea).

Regards Ian.

Yes, as Thiagussi says, the exhaust ports on this 1959 Triumph 5T cylinder head are threaded, they are 1-1/2" x 16tpi with 55 deg included angle.


Thread: laying up an engine
05/11/2018 19:51:48

Apparently Lanolin is a good rust preventative. for steel parts.

Presumably it's a copper boiler so I don't think should have a problem.

My 3" Allchin has a steel boiler, for winter storage I'm filling it to the brim with water + boiler treatment added at a concentration used for a 1st steaming when new. and protected from frost. I'm intending trying lanolin for bear steel parts.

If possible keep it in a warm place.

Hope that's of some help.

How about bees wax on bear steel parts?


Edited By tractionengine42 on 05/11/2018 19:54:28

Thread: Double diamond tool
04/11/2018 17:08:42

Here's another interesting variant by ROBRENZ a master at his art.


Thread: The right sort of paint!
04/11/2018 12:58:18

I used Precision Paints enamel on my 3" scale traction engine cleading which has 4mm insulation. I've only steamed it for 1 year but no problems with the paint. However, if you can get the heat resistant paint mentioned above in the colour you want then go with that.


Thread: What did you do Today 2018
03/11/2018 18:05:45

Not today but earlier in the week I made some exhaust adapters for a 1959 Triumph 5T motor bike being restored locally, I nice pleasurable turning job apart from them being in 316 st st. I was amazed when they fitted the cylinder head perfectly. Plus I made a short video of the process.

exhaust adaptors.jpg


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