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Member postings for tractionengine42

Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: non machining method ebook
13/12/2010 14:10:33
Does not look like a model engineer posting!
Appologies hyauguen but I have to ask, are you an affiliate marketer trying to direct us to websites with incentives to part with our cash?
Call me synical
Thread: Chemical blackening
12/12/2010 23:49:40
look for:
Carrs metal black (used to be available at model shops, don't know if it still is)
Birchwood Casey Gun Blue
Thread: 1/4 Gypsy Major Aero engine castings for sale
08/12/2010 14:04:03
I sent you a PM. Please go to "my account' /'my messages'.
Thread: Gauge Plate specs
03/12/2010 21:55:40
I said medium carbon steel but Nick is right gauge plate  is high carbon steel.
0.3 to 0.6 %carbon is medium carbon steel
0.6 to 1 % carbon is high carbon steel
ref wikapedia
Thread: Brake Discs
03/12/2010 21:41:19
10 years + ago I machined some brake discs for a freind, I think it was an Astra but can't be sure. It was no problem at all, if memory serves me correct I machined up a mandrel to hold the disc by the portion that bolts to the wheel hub and machined one side,lighy cut, low speed and feed, carbide tool.  For the second side I clamped it to my skimmed face plate using studs through the disc bolt holes.
On more modern cars materials my be diffrent now, a friend of mime bought some on ebay for a vectra recently and they looked like cast iron with the brake surfaces ground, I doubt if they are genuine vectra parts though.
Thread: Gauge Plate specs
03/12/2010 20:57:13
Gauge plate is a medeum carbon alloy tool steel supplied ground to size and in the annealed condition with a hardness of about 230 Brinell equivalent to a tensile strength of 45 tons/sq in.
It's about twice as hard as mild steel and in comparison is tough to machine, you need to use sharp cutting tools and for HSS reduce your cutting speed to maybe half or less than you would for mild steel and use a cutting oil. Take your time with sharp tools and you should have no problem. Drilling small holes is best done with cobolt grade HSS.
I think it could be good for gib strips as supplied un hardened only because it's nicely ground and should be ok against cast iron.
The spec is AISI 01 British equivalent B01. You can harden and temper it much like silver steel to make cutting tools.

Edited By tractionengine42 on 03/12/2010 20:59:11

Thread: Working with Cast Iron Billets (Grade Selection)
26/11/2010 15:09:26
If my college days serve me correct Meehanite refers to a cast iron made to a closely controlled casting and heat treatment/cooling process to provide high quality fine grain structure and consistant mechanical properties throughout the casting section. I believe the process specifically controls the presipitation of graphite.
The Meehanite process can be applied to many cast iron grades including grey and white cast iron and nodular cast iron.
Continuous gr 17 (250) cast iron from many suppliers seems to exhibit meehanite quality but I can't be certain that it is? Anyway, the continuous cast iron I have used turned and milled very easily and the fine grain was very consistant, a joy to work with.
After machining and retiring from my workshop my dear wife was reminded of her dad returning from work, he was a coal miner. A suitable trail of news paper sheets was layed to guide me to the kitchen sink, enroute nothing had to be touched, only joking.
Thread: Chinese lathes
22/11/2010 21:17:19


1. I am happy to buy from Arc Euro because there terms and condition of sale are upfront and honest, they don’t poetry there products to be anything other than what they are. Then they give me an upfront choice, dismantle, clean and rework parts myself or use there services. Does their advice to strip and clean invalidate the warranty?

2. Members of this hobby should be loyal to fellow modellers first and suppliers that poetry their products as something they are not second.
3. Suppliers have known about this problem of casting sand for years but seem to take the view of out of site out of mind, so long as it lasts the warranty period who cares? It’s a lack of respect for the customer.
4. Thanks lathejack, you have shown us the true storey of what to expect and how to protect our meagre investment and have a serviceable machine at the end of it, better that than run the machine to destruction.
5. Thanks Arc Euro for your up front and honest marketing policy.
6. I don’t believe it’s an expensive exercise for manufacturers to properly clean parts before assembly and not allow components to rust; it’s a minimum quality expectation what ever the price.
Thread: Desperate ! Need parts list for Warco WM-240 lathe
22/11/2010 20:18:16
Did this issue ever get satisfactorily resolved?
Thread: Drilling of 34CrNiMo6 4340 817M40 En24?
10/11/2010 16:21:27
I have done allot of drilling of En24T and found that cobalt HSS cuts very well and lasts but with rpm very low and highish feed rate by hand.
Dormer 135 deg split point about 10mm tin coated cut extreamly well with out a pilot.
Plenty of coolant applied.
For small holes <2mm ordanary hss was useless but cobalt hss no problem.
There are plenty cobolt hss or even better carbide drills at reasonable prices on ebay.
Thread: TPI Threads
31/10/2010 04:46:13
This may be stupid but isn't an air brake not actually a brake in the real sense of the word when related to aircraft, is it not a spoiler to 'spoil' the airflow over the wing to reduce lift and put more weight on the ground more quickly so the wheel brakes are more effective more quickly?
Is it just a case of terminology?
Or is it the case that by reducing lift the plane slows thus effectively brakeing? 

Edited By tractionengine42 on 31/10/2010 05:16:06

Thread: Stock Suppliers
31/10/2010 01:02:16
M Machine are in Darlington if that's not to far, I used them oncea when working in that area to buy some big chunks of En1A.
Now living in Aberdeenshire local suppliers are thin on the ground so I buy from GLR and Live Steam Models both of whom advertise in ME and give good service.
If your OK wthj mild steel black bar your local blacksmith will supply or, if your prepared to buy full lengths, usually 3m, your local metal supplier may sell to you. For sheet metal go to a local sheet metal shop, they've plenty offcuts they will let you have.
Thread: Carbide Insert Quality
29/10/2010 14:45:52
Often resort to HSS or even CS to get a good finish!
Someone please point me in the direction of Neville Carter, first I have heard of him.
Many thanks
Thread: Convensional vs climb milling
28/10/2010 11:08:10
Here is a more appropriate link that explains why you should not climb mill when backlash is present, as will be the case with all convensional hobby milling machines.

Climb milling and backlash
Hope this clarifies the situation
Thread: MEW-169 Tool-post Grinder Article
28/10/2010 11:00:08
Understood, thanks.
Thread: TPI Threads
28/10/2010 10:11:10
I believe BA threads are actually of metric origin and not imperial, their size being determined using a geometric progression going down from 6mm.
I think the French are to blame
Thread: Convensional vs climb milling
28/10/2010 10:04:42
Hi Bogs and kwil
Thanks for your additional input all of which I fully agree with.
Yes, on reflection I don't think beginners should try climb milling but rather be aware of the two conditions in order to avoid it.
I must confess to having broken cutters by accidently climb milling and when I live dangerously and do it deliberately a little pressure on the table locking screws is used. So it may increase slide way ware a little but I doubt if I will be around long enongh to worry.
28/10/2010 01:59:01
Came across this link

convensional vs climb milling
which I thought would interest those new to milling.
I often use climb milling with light cuts to get a better finish but you have to be very careful about backlash in your leadscrew, graet care is needed,
Thread: MEW-169 Tool-post Grinder Article
28/10/2010 01:41:32
Steve, thanks for the diagram, comfirms what you've been saying.
If the work is held between centres then you will have to 'not climb grind'? Am I right?
Maybe way back this is where the need for the grinding wheel and work surfaces moving in opposite directions originated, I would imagine in days gone that working between centres would be more common.
I have always shayed away from trying toolpost grinding but I have learnt so much from this thread I will be giving it ago. I have a Sherline headstock with variable speed upto 10,000 rpm, I am thinking that I should be able to set up a fairly ridged arrangement on my 6" centre lathe and use the variable speed to get the right periferal speed for the grinding wheel diameter. Would not be suitable for using grinding points though, higher rpm would be needed.
Thread: Desperate ! Need parts list for Warco WM-240 lathe
26/10/2010 16:55:20
Hi Rik
On Thursday 21st David Clark says he sent Warco details of your problem to Warco. After 2 full working days, Friday and Monday, have they resolved this situation and emailed you the parts list you need?
My order for them awaits the outcome.
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