Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Car Boot Sales|
Gordon, I am a fellow sufferer, since moving to Aberdeenshire I have not been able to find any car boot sale bargains, because I haven’t found any car boot sales. There is the annual Alford transport museum auto jumble but to date not found any bargains.
|Thread: Steel Boiler Tubes|
Maybe it's possible to run some trace heating cable through the tubes, make it nice and cosy. more expensive than a light bulb though.
For corrosion prevention in long term storage would it be possible to fill the boiler with an inert gas like argon to eliminate oxygen? I am sure the boiler would have to be dry on the inside first and sealed after being filled? Would it increase the life of the boiler tubes?
Just an idea. Crazy or what?
|Thread: Slitting saws|
These sizes are listed on ebay ref RDG Tools
|Thread: Steel Boiler Tubes|
Chris Gunn's article (issue4396 ME) made very interesting and informative reading. I can certainly see a retube will be easier at an earlier stage of boiler tube deterioration.
I am building a 3" Allchin, I bought a commercial steel boiler however, the design does not provide a hand hole as in Chris Gunn's case, I can see that in my case if the tubes are allowed to deteriorate the same extent then I would have some very difficult problems removing them without some access to the inside of the boiler. If a tube was to collapse I can't think what I would do.
The tubes on my 3" scale are I think 3/32" as compared to Chris Gunn's 1/8" so presumably they should be replaced at an earlier. What are the experiences of owners of 3" scale traction engines? When should I consider renewing?
Is stainless steel a viable option to mild steel? I have never heard of stainless steel being used.
Does anyone use copper tubes in their 3" scale steel boilers?
|Thread: Valve handwheels|
Although in 3" scale, I made the valve handles as Jason's first description, that is, turning to shape and including a flat ring on the outside, then filing away the flat ring to leave the 4 tabs.
|Thread: Bridgeport series 1 milling machine|
DIY stores sell felt pads. I have thought of giving these a try but have not yet done so so I can't say whether they are suitable. May be worth a look.
|Thread: Condensation in workshops|
My first workshop was a concrete sectional construction garage.
I lined it out, including covering over the up and over door, with a sheet of polythene, then 1" thick polystyrene and 3/8" ply. The ply was screwed to a vertical wood battens secured to the wall panel clamp plates. I made a false ceiling with I think 2 x 2 timber frame and 1/8 ply insulated with loft insulation. Because I covered the up and over door, which improved security as this opened onto a street, I made and fitted a side door by removing one set of wall panels.
The concrete floor was painted, coverd with lanimate flooring underlay and then a layer of loft floor boards. The boards did tend to waer a bit so later I glued on some vinyl tiles.
I heated it with a 2kw convection heater, I had no problems with condensation and did not use dehumidifiers. I allowed the heater to heat slowly, turning it on a hour before I went in, I think this helps reduce condensation tendancies. after a bout 3 hours it was as warm as toast even on the coldest day.
It's alot of work and expence but I expect cheaper that running a dehumidifier over a period of time.
Apart from the floor I have done the same with my current workshop though this is block built and rendered, again I have no problems with condensation
My first workshop was in NE england by the sea, my current workshop is in the Grampians Scotland, both locations prone to cold damp weather at times.
My experiance is that it's well worth the effort and expence, it can be tricky and frustrating to do when the workshop is full of your gear.
Hope this helps
Edited By tractionengine42 on 30/01/2011 17:02:11
|Thread: Small rotary tables|
Sounds like I have the same 3" rotary table as Roger, very cheap but an expensive waste of money, the table visibly moves when milling or tightening the lock screw. I later bought a Sherline 4" on ebay which I am very happy with, very accurate and well made.
|Thread: non machining method ebook|
Does not look like a model engineer posting!
Appologies hyauguen but I have to ask, are you an affiliate marketer trying to direct us to websites with incentives to part with our cash?
Call me synical
|Thread: Chemical blackening|
Carrs metal black (used to be available at model shops, don't know if it still is)
Birchwood Casey Gun Blue
|Thread: 1/4 Gypsy Major Aero engine castings for sale|
I sent you a PM. Please go to "my account' /'my messages'.
|Thread: Gauge Plate specs|
I said medium carbon steel but Nick is right gauge plate is high carbon steel.
0.3 to 0.6 %carbon is medium carbon steel
0.6 to 1 % carbon is high carbon steel
|Thread: Brake Discs|
10 years + ago I machined some brake discs for a freind, I think it was an Astra but can't be sure. It was no problem at all, if memory serves me correct I machined up a mandrel to hold the disc by the portion that bolts to the wheel hub and machined one side,lighy cut, low speed and feed, carbide tool. For the second side I clamped it to my skimmed face plate using studs through the disc bolt holes.
On more modern cars materials my be diffrent now, a friend of mime bought some on ebay for a vectra recently and they looked like cast iron with the brake surfaces ground, I doubt if they are genuine vectra parts though.
|Thread: Gauge Plate specs|
Gauge plate is a medeum carbon alloy tool steel supplied ground to size and in the annealed condition with a hardness of about 230 Brinell equivalent to a tensile strength of 45 tons/sq in.
It's about twice as hard as mild steel and in comparison is tough to machine, you need to use sharp cutting tools and for HSS reduce your cutting speed to maybe half or less than you would for mild steel and use a cutting oil. Take your time with sharp tools and you should have no problem. Drilling small holes is best done with cobolt grade HSS.
I think it could be good for gib strips as supplied un hardened only because it's nicely ground and should be ok against cast iron.
The spec is AISI 01 British equivalent B01. You can harden and temper it much like silver steel to make cutting tools.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 03/12/2010 20:59:11
|Thread: Working with Cast Iron Billets (Grade Selection)|
If my college days serve me correct Meehanite refers to a cast iron made to a closely controlled casting and heat treatment/cooling process to provide high quality fine grain structure and consistant mechanical properties throughout the casting section. I believe the process specifically controls the presipitation of graphite.
The Meehanite process can be applied to many cast iron grades including grey and white cast iron and nodular cast iron.
Continuous gr 17 (250) cast iron from many suppliers seems to exhibit meehanite quality but I can't be certain that it is? Anyway, the continuous cast iron I have used turned and milled very easily and the fine grain was very consistant, a joy to work with.
After machining and retiring from my workshop my dear wife was reminded of her dad returning from work, he was a coal miner. A suitable trail of news paper sheets was layed to guide me to the kitchen sink, enroute nothing had to be touched, only joking.
|Thread: Chinese lathes|
1. I am happy to buy from Arc Euro because there terms and condition of sale are upfront and honest, they don’t poetry there products to be anything other than what they are. Then they give me an upfront choice, dismantle, clean and rework parts myself or use there services. Does their advice to strip and clean invalidate the warranty?
2. Members of this hobby should be loyal to fellow modellers first and suppliers that poetry their products as something they are not second.
3. Suppliers have known about this problem of casting sand for years but seem to take the view of out of site out of mind, so long as it lasts the warranty period who cares? It’s a lack of respect for the customer.
4. Thanks lathejack, you have shown us the true storey of what to expect and how to protect our meagre investment and have a serviceable machine at the end of it, better that than run the machine to destruction.
5. Thanks Arc Euro for your up front and honest marketing policy.
6. I don’t believe it’s an expensive exercise for manufacturers to properly clean parts before assembly and not allow components to rust; it’s a minimum quality expectation what ever the price.
|Thread: Desperate ! Need parts list for Warco WM-240 lathe|
Did this issue ever get satisfactorily resolved?
|Thread: Drilling of 34CrNiMo6 4340 817M40 En24?|
I have done allot of drilling of En24T and found that cobalt HSS cuts very well and lasts but with rpm very low and highish feed rate by hand.
Dormer 135 deg split point about 10mm tin coated cut extreamly well with out a pilot.
Plenty of coolant applied.
For small holes <2mm ordanary hss was useless but cobalt hss no problem.
There are plenty cobolt hss or even better carbide drills at reasonable prices on ebay.
|Thread: TPI Threads|
This may be stupid but isn't an air brake not actually a brake in the real sense of the word when related to aircraft, is it not a spoiler to 'spoil' the airflow over the wing to reduce lift and put more weight on the ground more quickly so the wheel brakes are more effective more quickly?
Is it just a case of terminology?
Or is it the case that by reducing lift the plane slows thus effectively brakeing?
Edited By tractionengine42 on 31/10/2010 05:16:06
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