Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vertex Auto Tapping Head|
Do you use ordiary taps with the auto tapping heads, so for a blind hole taper, second, and plug or do you need to use machine taps? Does it matter?
|Thread: Quorn Kit|
I think that looks a great project, a much faster and easier build than the Quorn. It's ideal for the begiinner as there is plenty scope to easily add your own variation and "improvements".
It's easier to use ones own expeience to modify a design, it's much more difficult to orgininate a design (and keep everyone happy).
JD. part of the satisfaction is to add your own stamp onto a project, this design is an ideal starting point for developing your own inventive skills and ideas. I don't think ME needs to be concerned to much about intimate detail, leave it to the hobby to develop the initial idea as each individual sees fit, beginners will learn from that discussion and experience.
I think it looks fine as it is and will do the job intended.
My variation would be to raise the bed and have the motor underneath and perhaps use a poly vee belt and yes, make it right hand. May be I will make an epoxy-concrete base just for the experience and joy thanks to another thread on this forum.
I am sure there are plenty ideas to share.
Oh, BTW I will paint mine orange (how do you get coloured text?)
Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/06/2011 06:37:59
Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/06/2011 06:39:56
|Thread: Using Micrometer/Hi-Spot blue|
I am just trying to get my head around the method you have explained, I always assumed that you would scrape the blue though I have not done any scraping. I would have done the same as Peter describes.
Suppose I was scraping a gib strip and using a flat surface plate as a reference. The way I understand what you are saying is that I would blue the gib strip, rub this against a clean reference surface and the blue would be moved to the low points, therefore I should scrape the clean metal showing through. Is that right? Or does it matter which is blued, the reference surface or the gib?
As I am writing this I am beginning to think it does not matter which you blue or even if both are blued, so long as the blue is applied very sparingly the high spots on both will rub and clean away the blue from said high spots. The trick must be in having the blue applied very sparingly.
So the same would apply to a bearing?
|Thread: HSS Tool Blank Grinder|
I was thinking of
Anyone any experience of these
|Thread: Face cutter cutting width|
The 1/64th rad was done using a slip stone.
|Thread: Technical and engineering drawing.|
With all this interest and publicity you’re getting in this post why not self-publish a book? Regard this as my pre-order; there you have already sold one.
Just a thought but risky.
Yes, I am agreeing with Terry really, and as you say lets not cloud the issue with talk of BS standards and 3D stuff.
Just something relavent to the hobby and appropriate to the way we build our models, guidance for the in-experienced regarding 2D drawing.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 22/04/2011 12:04:12
|Thread: Face cutter cutting width|
Wouldn’t a HSS fly cutter be a better option for this material when using our hobby machines?
A while back I was asked to skim an aluminum cylinder head. An old hand told me to use HSS fly cutter, put a 1/64th rad on the tool, hone the tool to a keen edge than slightly dull the edge which I did with fine wet and dry.
A high speed and fine feed with normal water soluble coolant provided a perfectly smooth finish much to my relief. The fly cutter was about 4" dia cutting almost full width at 5 thou depth.
|Thread: Technical and engineering drawing.|
Drawings and sketches in ME can sometimes be difficult to interpret easily. Sometimes dimensions have to be calculated from a collection of dimensions from various views. Uncertainty can be the result.
Terry, I think you have a valid proposal, ME’s are not really needing to read production drawings and know all the ins and outs of various standard and I know that is not what you propose. However, we do want to communicate effectively within our hobby using drawings, what better way is there.
Terry, maybe your article could set out a general standard for ME drawings, this could then be used from this point forward, not to make it mandatory but available for use. Contributors could then state, “Drawn generally in accordance with Terry ME standard”. Then maybe your article can be made permanently available on the web site for contributors and ME’s reference.
What basics should be included?
1. View projection
2. Hidden detail
3. Sectioning a view
4. Good dimensioning practice – Dimensioning from suitable datum’s is often not used in ME drawings
5. Tolerances – We’re not interested in putting tolerances on all our sizes but it would be helpful to know the quality of fit intended. I would like to know, is the fit within 0.0005-0.001 clearance. Maybe you could set a standard fit tol 1 = xxxx, fit tol 2 = xxxx. Don’t know just an idea.
6. Geometrical tolerance – We don’t want to have geometrical tolerances all over the drawing but we may want to emphasis diameters that need to be concentric (machined on one setting), these faces must be parallel. Etc.
I think that’s about as far as it goes. Not too comprehensive but good enough to help contributors and readers.
Regarding 5 & 6 above, we all work to our own standard and generally produce more accurate work than always needed, but sometimes some guidance would be helpful. Contributors who are not familiar with tolerances are not going to be able to apply relevant values. However, presumably they make the parts they are drawing and have an idea of the type of fit they used and when diameters needed to be concentric and so on. So some ME method of indicating this on ME drawings, without the intricacies of BS, ISO standards etc may be a way forward.
Maybe Terry and David could work together on this to provide something relevant to the hobby.
|Thread: Countryman's Steam - Chain drilling|
I still do not have a clue what this view reprsents, how it relates to the spokes or what the 13/16" is for. I just can't fathom it.
Any body able to explain?
|Thread: Travelling Steady Fixture for Thinning Narrow Diameter Bar|
I machined some 3mm dia x 60 long valve stems in stst by first placing a piece of ali bronze in the drill chuck held in the tailstock, then drilled and reamed it 3mm. I turned the end of the stst bar down to 3mm for about 8mm long. Then I repositioned the bar so that the turned end ran in the ali bronze for about 4mm length. Just supporting the end was enough to prevent deflection with a sharp tool and light cuts.
|Thread: Building lathe/mill in cast of concrete?|
Just a bit off topic but this thread reminded me of the remains of WW1 or WW2 concrete boats laying in a horbour near where I lived as a child. My grandmother assured me they did float. So concrete has more uses than you would think.
|Thread: Machinability v Mess v Finish.|
Is it just me but when machining En24T it seems to have a distinctive smell. Can metals have different smells when being machined?
maybe it's just my imagination but I have noticed this more than once with En24T.
I think En1A is limited in it's use, good for non stressed parts and easy to get a good finish.
I dislike En3, I can get a good finish some of the time but for me it's to much time playing around expertimenting and hoping a good finish is obtained as I approach the final cut. Usually I will hand finish to get a precise size with a good finish
I agree En24T is good to machine to a high standard however, I get good results with En8M, not as hard as En24T and lower tensile but still good for stressed parts and can be heat treated. Ordinary En8 I don't like much, I find it's like machining a harder version of En3.
Generaly I keep to 303 st st, En1A, En8M or En24T. and get good results easily.
I often use 303 st st in place of En1A for none stressed none wearing parts, almost as easy to machine won't rust and can takle a high polish quickly.
My favourate machining materials are gr 17 cast iron, leaded bronze or gun metal. Her in doors does not like me machining cast iron.
Above refers to turning, milling is another storey.
|Thread: Things we should not do|
Some machining operations produce long stringy swarf. Never under any circumstances be tempted to clear swarf while the machine is cutting or running, not even using a stick or anything, you could lose fingers in an instant. Peek drilling will prevent long stringy swarf or when turning experiment with different tooling, if using HSS grinding a chip breaker (groove ground just behind the cutting edge) can break up the swarf and make the turning operation safer.
An obvious safety precaution but one easily forgotten or ignored, always wear eye protection It's not nice to lose any body parts but to lose an eye!
+ where possible keep the distance from the stud to the work shorter than the distance from the stud to the packing. This increases the leverage in favour of the work piece thus increasing the clamping load holding the work piece .
This post has been an education, what have I learnt?
1. There are several correct ways to turn a morse taper dependent upon your equipment to hand (or maybe even just whatever method you fancy having a go at to develop your skills).
2. This (maybe not all) production turner has such a narrow breadth of experience and narrow mindedness he has little to offer the broader challenges of the amateur model engineer who seeks alternatives and innovations. I think Harold Hall must be a man who seeks alternatives and innovations to the so called correct way and does it very successfully.
3. Never ask for the correct way, it's too limiting, Ask what ways are there.
Thanks for the education
Edited By tractionengine42 on 24/03/2011 16:29:51
Edited By tractionengine42 on 24/03/2011 16:40:02
Heath Robinson will never die, thank goodness. I wonder how many times Heath Robinson has saved the day were limited resourcesare available, Apollo 13 springs to mind.
Long live Heath Robinson.
Oh, so obvious.
Thanks for a very quick answer
In his article MEW 175 'using collets in my lathe' Mike Houghton refers to collet runout measurmrnt as t.i.r. i.e. o.oo5" (t.i.r.)
What does t.i.r. stand for?
I am sure once someone tells me I will hang my head low in shame of not knowing.
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