Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vectric 2DCut and Mach3|
I don't usually look at a manual until I have broken something, so I thought this time I would get ahead of myself.
The mach 3 manual actually explains very well what John has advised and I can now begin to understand this absolute and incremental stuff.
This website seems very good if your just learning G-code, click on a g code and you can walk through a visual illustration of what the Gcode is doing. looks good to me anyway.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 10/10/2011 10:44:03
Sorry to hear your frustration, it's such a waste of valuable time when these things happen.
You will have gathered I am very new to cnc but learning fast. Just this post has shown me allot by pointing me in the right direction.
My startup string only has G80 so I will add the others you mention. I checked the gcode on the programme and the codes you mention are at the beginning so I guess vectric is doing a good job there and all should be safe.
I am keeping my feed rates very low until I feel a bit more confident.
BTW, I also wish you had a pound for every time you have answerd my question, your worth every penny.
Your second post must have arrived as I was making my reply.
Thanks for the additional info. Currently I am dedicated to metric so will have a look at what your saying.
I was thinking of having a metric and imperial configurtion and loading either via Mach3 loader. I assume that should work OK?
I was just wondering, the setting I have just changed from absolute to incrfemental, is there likely to be a circumstance where I would need to change it back?
Jim, yes I saved under mach2/3 mm
John, I made the config changes you stated and it's now working perfect.
I obviously need to learn more about config options.
Thanks so much, I had not expected such a quick and easy solution, that's the power of forum's, superb community support.
Here is a Preview from Vectric showing what the expected result should be.
I am just starting out on cnc and trying to use 2DCut to generate G code for Mach3.
I have tried several projects, some from dxf files and others drawn in 2Dcut but all with the same result.
All seems well in the 2DCut programme, the preview works OK. It saves the Gcode as a text file, when I load this into Mach3 there are masses of circular tool paths As can be seen in the above screen shot.. The actual tool paths wanted are in there (red lines) but obviously something is a miss.
Anyone using Vectric 2DCut and Mach3? Any ideas of what the problem is.
Incidentally I have used Meshcam to machine some test 3D shapes without any problem so I am sure this is to do with how 2DCut is processing the Gcode.
Any help appreciated.
By the way, I have tried to register with the Vectric Forum but it yells me my IP address is not permitted, hmm I have paid my money now.
PS. the profile I am trying to machine in this case is that of a Jaguar (cat). I will screen shot fron Vetric to my album to show the intended result.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 09/10/2011 17:50:05
Edited By tractionengine42 on 09/10/2011 17:50:43
|Thread: Oil grooves in piston valves|
303 is the free cutting grade of st st, machines very easily compared to 316 and easily polishes to a mirror finish.
If you want to stay with the drawing dimensioins of 1/64 wide a 1/16 deep another method might be to mill them using a slitting saw in the mill. Put the part in a chuck on a rotary table, feed the slitting saw to cutting depth and slowly rotate the table.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 16/09/2011 13:18:13
|Thread: bearing material,|
I built the 10V many years ago.
I am sure the bearings are extruded brass but do not know what grade of brass.
Don't think you can purchase anywhere else, not that I have seen anyway.
|Thread: GETTING CNC WORKING|
Here's my tale of woe:
I am having similar problems getting my computer to talk to my Gecko drivers correctly this last month.
Like you I am using XP, my drivers require my parallel port to be in EPP mode, if you have an on board parallel port it can usually be changed in the bios.
I do not have an on board port so I am using a PCI I/O card. Unfortunately for me, although the literature says it's EPP compatible when fitted it installs automatically in ECP mode and I can't find any way to change the config.
This seems to be why I can't get the system working, maybe you’re having similar problems for similar reasons.
Now I am trying to find a PCI parallel port I can set to EPP, hopefully one that uses a jumper setting so there is no option on installation.
The guys on Artsoft/Mach forun have been a great help.
|Thread: Vertex Auto Tapping Head|
Someone is sure to put up a youtube video, so let me be the first this time. First time I have seen this operation/tool.
Richard, interesting tool. Good luck with it if you buy one.
Do you use ordiary taps with the auto tapping heads, so for a blind hole taper, second, and plug or do you need to use machine taps? Does it matter?
|Thread: Quorn Kit|
I think that looks a great project, a much faster and easier build than the Quorn. It's ideal for the begiinner as there is plenty scope to easily add your own variation and "improvements".
It's easier to use ones own expeience to modify a design, it's much more difficult to orgininate a design (and keep everyone happy).
JD. part of the satisfaction is to add your own stamp onto a project, this design is an ideal starting point for developing your own inventive skills and ideas. I don't think ME needs to be concerned to much about intimate detail, leave it to the hobby to develop the initial idea as each individual sees fit, beginners will learn from that discussion and experience.
I think it looks fine as it is and will do the job intended.
My variation would be to raise the bed and have the motor underneath and perhaps use a poly vee belt and yes, make it right hand. May be I will make an epoxy-concrete base just for the experience and joy thanks to another thread on this forum.
I am sure there are plenty ideas to share.
Oh, BTW I will paint mine orange (how do you get coloured text?)
Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/06/2011 06:37:59
Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/06/2011 06:39:56
|Thread: Using Micrometer/Hi-Spot blue|
I am just trying to get my head around the method you have explained, I always assumed that you would scrape the blue though I have not done any scraping. I would have done the same as Peter describes.
Suppose I was scraping a gib strip and using a flat surface plate as a reference. The way I understand what you are saying is that I would blue the gib strip, rub this against a clean reference surface and the blue would be moved to the low points, therefore I should scrape the clean metal showing through. Is that right? Or does it matter which is blued, the reference surface or the gib?
As I am writing this I am beginning to think it does not matter which you blue or even if both are blued, so long as the blue is applied very sparingly the high spots on both will rub and clean away the blue from said high spots. The trick must be in having the blue applied very sparingly.
So the same would apply to a bearing?
|Thread: HSS Tool Blank Grinder|
I was thinking of
Anyone any experience of these
|Thread: Face cutter cutting width|
The 1/64th rad was done using a slip stone.
|Thread: Technical and engineering drawing.|
With all this interest and publicity you’re getting in this post why not self-publish a book? Regard this as my pre-order; there you have already sold one.
Just a thought but risky.
Yes, I am agreeing with Terry really, and as you say lets not cloud the issue with talk of BS standards and 3D stuff.
Just something relavent to the hobby and appropriate to the way we build our models, guidance for the in-experienced regarding 2D drawing.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 22/04/2011 12:04:12
|Thread: Face cutter cutting width|
Wouldn’t a HSS fly cutter be a better option for this material when using our hobby machines?
A while back I was asked to skim an aluminum cylinder head. An old hand told me to use HSS fly cutter, put a 1/64th rad on the tool, hone the tool to a keen edge than slightly dull the edge which I did with fine wet and dry.
A high speed and fine feed with normal water soluble coolant provided a perfectly smooth finish much to my relief. The fly cutter was about 4" dia cutting almost full width at 5 thou depth.
|Thread: Technical and engineering drawing.|
Drawings and sketches in ME can sometimes be difficult to interpret easily. Sometimes dimensions have to be calculated from a collection of dimensions from various views. Uncertainty can be the result.
Terry, I think you have a valid proposal, ME’s are not really needing to read production drawings and know all the ins and outs of various standard and I know that is not what you propose. However, we do want to communicate effectively within our hobby using drawings, what better way is there.
Terry, maybe your article could set out a general standard for ME drawings, this could then be used from this point forward, not to make it mandatory but available for use. Contributors could then state, “Drawn generally in accordance with Terry ME standard”. Then maybe your article can be made permanently available on the web site for contributors and ME’s reference.
What basics should be included?
1. View projection
2. Hidden detail
3. Sectioning a view
4. Good dimensioning practice – Dimensioning from suitable datum’s is often not used in ME drawings
5. Tolerances – We’re not interested in putting tolerances on all our sizes but it would be helpful to know the quality of fit intended. I would like to know, is the fit within 0.0005-0.001 clearance. Maybe you could set a standard fit tol 1 = xxxx, fit tol 2 = xxxx. Don’t know just an idea.
6. Geometrical tolerance – We don’t want to have geometrical tolerances all over the drawing but we may want to emphasis diameters that need to be concentric (machined on one setting), these faces must be parallel. Etc.
I think that’s about as far as it goes. Not too comprehensive but good enough to help contributors and readers.
Regarding 5 & 6 above, we all work to our own standard and generally produce more accurate work than always needed, but sometimes some guidance would be helpful. Contributors who are not familiar with tolerances are not going to be able to apply relevant values. However, presumably they make the parts they are drawing and have an idea of the type of fit they used and when diameters needed to be concentric and so on. So some ME method of indicating this on ME drawings, without the intricacies of BS, ISO standards etc may be a way forward.
Maybe Terry and David could work together on this to provide something relevant to the hobby.
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