Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Needle flame gas torch|
I have a couple of questions concerning needle flame torches
I am looking for a needle flame torch that uses propane and compressed air for precision silver soldering of small parts. I want to avoiding having to heat a large area to get sufficient heat, I want to try and keep the required heat localised, so I believe I need a flame temperature higher than that obtained from a normal propane/atmospheric air torch.
There seems to be plenty choice for needle flame propane/oxygen torches at reasonable cost however, I want to avoid having to use oxygen cylinders. Is it possible to convert these to operate with compressed air rather than oxygen?
Is there any information or plans for building a needle flame propane/compressed air torch?
One UK supplier does supply what I am looking for but at over 200 GBP for a torch, micro compressor and gas regulator the cost is quite high. A propane/oxygen needle flame torch is available at around 50 GBP but of course an oxygen cylinder is required.
Thanks in advance for sharing your own experience and/or suggestion.
|Thread: You know you are an engineer when...|
When you finally get the correct diagnosis for your suffering.
But there is no cure.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/07/2012 14:35:49
|Thread: Hot rolled steel vs Cold rolled steel which is better?|
Annealing temperature is around 700 deg C, dull cherry red as stated previously and will need to be held for a period to soak depending upon size/volume.
So domestic appliances are not suitable. Maybe a gas ring will do for very small pieces?
Chunky pieces will require a good size propane torch or a furnace.
|Thread: Milling Copper|
Here is an opportunity to add to your workshop.
Explain to your good lady that this job needs slow careful cutting to be successful and therefore requires the purchase of a good quality fret saw.
That will do the job fine.
Personally I would be hesitant to use a router but sandwiching between 2 pieces of MFD as suggested I think is essential.
|Thread: Material finishing|
Frost have some
|Thread: Unknown Machine ?|
Also, normally the business end of the spindle has a powered slide for facing as well as boring.
A lovely little horizontal borer, as mentioned by Mick above.
Very useful for boring, milling and drilling.
Usually they have an optional adjustable support at the right hand side to support a long boring bar, similar to how you would use a boring bar between centres on a lathe with the work on the cross slide or vertical slide.
The table has the usual x & y axis, the horizontal spindle moves up and down on a vertical guides.
PS I want one
Edited By tractionengine42 on 23/06/2012 23:23:19
|Thread: The Cambridge Turning Trials|
I have suffered from this banding phenomenon for as long as I have used my lathe and it can be frustrating when trying to get a really good finish. I have noticed it on most materials.
I have not investigated it in any depth, I assume the following may be contributing to the problem.
1. I am using a cheap Chinese lathe, so nothing is going to be perfect, poorly fitting surfaces/slides will be more effected by vibration than on a good quality machine.
2. The lathe is of light construction so has less vibration dampening effect.
3. There are various sinusoidal frequencies taking place from the motor, pulleys, gears in the feed train etc. each with there own frequency, these vibration frequencies periodically coincide and then separate.
4. Acting as such these frequencies create a pattern of vibration, the light construction and low quality slides/bearings makes the machine more susceptible to being effected which shows up in the work piece.
I have thought about re-mounting the motor separate from the lathe to reduce one source of vibration. Slightly eccentric pulleys, out of balance rotating parts, poor quality drive belts could all be contributing to sinusoidal frequencies in the machine.
So good quality comes down to hand finishing skills more than then machining quality, not a bad thing.
PS. This spell checker is a great improvement.
|Thread: Lead screw nuts|
Thanks for the link, actually that's what I was referring to, it's the same link given by Paul above, sorry I did not explain myself fully.
Looks a very easy method, reading through that thread it seems the Acetal is surprisingly durable.
I would be interested in how your Delrin nut performs.
This method looks great, would it be a good compromise for a cnc conversion? Provided you can accept a very small amount of backlash. Save allot of time and expense changing to ball screws. Maybe friction would be the issue though so more cost on bigger steppers and drivers.
|Thread: looking for Bronze|
Try Holme Dodsworth.
|Thread: Minishot 2 injection moulder machine|
Maybe rty a forum like this one
|Thread: 2mm Milling Cutter|
After breaking a couple of 1mm and 2mm slot drills on my cnc I now almost exclusively use carbide (pcb) engraving cutters on brass and gunmetal. Now I can do small milling with confidence and have never broken one of these, I am using 1mm wide cutter for most milling but down to 0.1mm or finishing and engraving.
One problem is, although my spindle max is 10,000 rpm, it's much happier at about 6000 rpm so not great.
Mind you these slot drills, although new ,were not great on sharpness, they were cheap but expensive to break.
Because the engraving cutter has tapered sides, sides need to be finished will the slot drill/endmill but for some jobs it does not matter.
I am using a small Sherline I converted to cnc.
These engraving cutters have one flat side like a 'D' bit, the 0.1mm cutter (very sharp) actually makes a good scriber point, the flat edge helps when scribing a line along a rulers edge.
|Thread: spline shaft cutters|
Splines can be of involute form and cut using an internal gear shaping method.
In a jobbing shop internal splines may also be done by spark erosion (EDM).
Or wire erosion
Edited By tractionengine42 on 15/04/2012 10:37:45
|Thread: Toolmaker's Clamps|
When it comes to tool makers clamps, size is not everytrhing.
I made some from 3/16" square bar and about an inch and a bit long. 6BA threads if I remember correctly.
I bet mine are not the smallest though.
|Thread: Hobbymat sale?????|
I would very much appreciate it if you could pass this message on to Lukas Walter, I am sure he is a very kind and generous person and I would like to give him this wonderful opportunity.
Unfortunately the aforementioned Sir Ashley Owen finds himself in a bit of a pickle and rather financially embarrassed. As a victim of scammers he lost all his money from his UK bank account, now without funds he is unable to access his offshore millions located in a bank in Timbuck Two. It saddens me so much to see my dear friend and employer in this very difficult position, I only wish I could help him myself. Without access to his offshore funds Sir Ashley's estate will fall into ruins.
If Lukas could send some money to the amount of 5000GBP Sir Ashley will than be able to release his offshore funds. If Lukas would be so very kind to do this Sir Ashey will generously reward him by paying 200,000 GBP directly into his personal bank account. If Lukas would be so kind to post his full bank details on this forum Sir Ashley will transfer this money promptly.
Butler, Chauffeur, Cook
|Thread: Alpine Mill/Drill|
If the 3MT /2MT sleeve protrudes below the end of the spindle a little you could turn a blank disc the diameter of the MT sleeve, weld it to the end of the MT sleeve, then drop a bar down the spindle bore and tap it out.
Turn a piece of bar to 2MT and loctite it into the sleeve, place a bar down the spindle bore and tap it out.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 27/02/2012 03:01:32
|Thread: What is EN24 like to machine?|
Here is some info on heat traeted conditions of EN24.
Can't realy give any specific help with heat traetement but I guess you will heat to cherry red, soak at that temp for a while, quench in oil, temper to a light purple. This might help.
|Thread: The dreaded drilling job!|
I cannot remember the exact arrangement but there was a method given in ME similar to that shown below. This arrangement allows you to position the drill and determine the drill exit point.
maybe others have used this method?
|Thread: buying copper for boiler makeing|
When riveting for silver soldering should you stop short of completely closing the rivet in order to maintain a few thou gap the for silver solder to flow between the joining surfaces.
I understand it's important to maintain a few thou gap to get a sound joint?
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