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Member postings for tractionengine42

Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: ELLIOT 10m
22/06/2020 22:46:33

My Elliot 10M motor runs at 725 rpm. I got an electric rewind company to convert it from 3 phase to on 240v single phase with a run capacitor.

As it hasn't got a start winding it runs up slow, because the shaper uses a clutch and the motor runs continually this has not been a problem.

Nigel

Thread: Floating Reamer Holder
22/06/2020 17:38:30

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts and experiences, (especially IanT, Howard Lewis and Oily rag).

Roger - that Angnt info, especially the sectional drawings is very interesting, a high end precision tool. I guess for production work a "floppy" reamer would be far from desirable but manageable in a home workshop.

Anyway, I've now got some fresh ideas regarding making a floating reamer holder for my larger reamers with MT shanks, but I'm going to leave it for a while, need to re-focus on my Lion build.

Cheers
Nigel

21/06/2020 17:11:02

Thanks Ian

Great to hear your enjoying my Lion build on YouTube, it's quite a big effort to do the videos so your interest is much appreciated.

Cheers

Nigel

21/06/2020 12:10:14
Posted by not done it yet on 21/06/2020 11:33:55:

Unfortunately my lathe is not in that category but adequate.

Being a bit of the devil here - does that indicate it is a more modern lathe of far eastern manufacture?😈

Yeah, you've hit the nail on the head. My lathe is good for the money and got me into the hobby, it's 20 years old now so no complaints. So far a good old iron lathe has eluded me. When you move to a rigid machine the difference is outstanding.

Nigel

21/06/2020 10:06:11

Hi Oily Rag

My go to mill is a a Deckel FP1 circa 1947 amazingly accurate inspite of it's age, one of my few indulgences. An Elliot Shaper and Omni-mill are my other prides of joy. Unfortunately my lathe is not in that category but adequate.

Cheers

Nigel

21/06/2020 09:26:47
Posted by Oily Rag on 20/06/2020 15:07:50:

NDIY -

It would be nice to see a small split collet arrangement similar to the old B&H model 20BA

img_3042.jpg

Thanks for the picture that explains allot of what your are saying.

I would like to also make a Floating Reamer Holder for taper shank reamers, you've given me some food for thought.

Cheers

Nigel

21/06/2020 09:01:50

Posted by Oily Rag on 20/06/2020 10:41:18:

A good video and some excellent workmanship in creating this tool. However, although the tool is of an interesting design, it appears to be overly complex, and in that I refer to the provision of 'azimuth displacement' effected by the roll of the head by using a ball bearing / pad design. The axial displacement is all that one 'should' need unless the lathe is hopelessly out of alignment.

The use of the chuck also puts a lot of mass outboard of the flexible joint - notice the drop of the reamer as it exits the hole. Surely the use of single split collets allows for a simpler design and a lower mass of the moving parts. A very simple and effective design is the old Buck & Hickman model 20BA.

Overall a very nice machining job though, congratulations!

I have noticed some angular alignment issues in my set up with reamer/drills deflecting as they enter a previously drilled hole, so I included the ball to try and address this. I did wonder whether the mass of a chuck would be detrimental, approaching this as a hobbyist I thought it was worth a try, the tool was an experiment and for sure could be improved.

I based my design upon a commercial product I was shown some time ago which was just as "floppy" as my design and I was told it had some angular freedom of movement as well as radial. While I didn't get the finer detail of it's design this is my best guess how it worked as far as I can fathom, my design achieves, as best as I can, the same result as the commercial one I was shown.

You got me thinking and it would be possible to move the pivot point in front og the taper on the collar/chuck carrier, the tool works very well for what I want so I'm not inclined to spend any more time on it.

Other than the one I was shown I'm not familiar with any other designs and didn't look into it, my aim was to replicate the commercial one I was shown and saw working.

Thanks for some interesting feedback.

Nigel

21/06/2020 08:36:33
Posted by not done it yet on 19/06/2020 23:56:29:

Splendid. A product of some fine engineering skill! Was the ally bronze made to fit a standard ‘C’ spanner? Or are you going to make one (just to finish off the job).🙂

I have a hinged type C spanner that can be used on different diameters, really useful, It's like this one

Nigel

20/06/2020 17:14:52

Thanks everyone for your interest and complimentary feedback. My post seems to have stimulated some discussion, all great stuff.

There's a few points i'd like to clarify/respond to which I will do once I have had a chance to digest all the replies.

Meanwhile I have a Lion Loco to build, so I'll catch up with you all fairly shortly.

Cheers

Nigel

19/06/2020 20:07:19

Hi

For those interested in DIY tooling, I made a Floating Reamer Holder, something I'd been wanting to build for a while, a tool making competition motivated me to get it done and enter the competition.

Part of the competition is to create a video of your tool, have a story line, show it being made and used.

This is my video for anyone interested.

I made it so that it can be used for drilling as well as reaming, I've used it a few times and it's been great, surprising the difference in getting an accurate reamed hole. I know there's more to it than just reamer alignment but this at least address one aspect.

Here's a picture of the tool, it's the bronze looking bit.
floating reamer holder.jpg

I used a chuck because I mostly use chucking reamers. I do have a few larger reamers with morse taper shanks so now have an idea how I can make a similar tool for those.

All made fro donated scrap off cuts, the best material for DIY tooling.

The tool making competition is #TMC2020

Nigel

Edited By tractionengine42 on 19/06/2020 20:20:21

Thread: New to model engineering - what solder / flux and annealing question
29/11/2019 11:00:53

Chris

I've a few video's on forming copper for my Lion boiler which may be of help. Some silver soldering videos to follow though there are quite a few silver soldering videos on silver soldering.

Here's one of my videos

It's challenging work but worth while in the end.

Nigel

Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019
22/11/2019 12:26:51

Thanks Derek

Glad you liked the video, not sure why the link in my post isn't working, but you've solved the problem. Unfortunately I can't get back in to the post to edit it.

I've used it with a toolmakers vice, (which has all the sides flat and square with each other), to accurately move the work in both X & Y directions.

Thanks Again

 

Nigel

 

Edited By tractionengine42 on 22/11/2019 12:31:34

22/11/2019 10:53:47

I made this simple tools some time ago and put it to use on my drilling machine with my Spin Indexer. It helps accurately position holes on a machine without any X & Y axis let alone without a DRO. Today I published my video showing how I used it to drill a matrix of hole in a cylinder.

20191119_163827_hdr.jpg

01/11/2019 09:47:56

Continued my 5"g LION build series bending up the throat plate, proved to be a challenge to get good tight corners.

The previously flanged material pulled in at the sides so I learnt the lesson that I should have made an allowance when I made the blank ready for flanging and should have left some additional material at the sides. However, because the the sides are right up to the flange and the flange blends into the corner radius the width of contact for silver soldering remains pretty much constant, so it looks like I got away with that one.

For anyone interested in following my build here's this particular video: Bending the Throat Plate

throat plate 2.jpg

20/10/2019 16:05:32

Amazing work Richard! Looks Great!

Nigel

08/10/2019 17:04:50

One of the links in my post above doesn't seem to work. here's another which hopefully will.

Lion Boiler Build pt1

Nigel

08/10/2019 16:59:36

I've occasionally posted on here my progress building my Lion boiler, I had taken lots of video and have decided to have a bash at building a video series of my build.

Today I uploaded my second video, for any one interested here's a link: Lion Boiler Build pt2

Part 1 is an introduction which is here :Lion Boiler Build pt 1

Here it is finished, now I'm busy with the frames, horn plates and wheels.

lion 34.jpg

I hope my videos help anyone thinking of building a model of this historic loco.

 

BTW, Very nice work George on that crank.

 

Nigel

 

Edited By tractionengine42 on 08/10/2019 17:01:47

07/10/2019 19:27:15

Mick

So you have a mill with a 'Dead Man' switch, cool!

Nigel

Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019
27/09/2019 15:18:11

5" Lion build.

Finally, after what seems endless hours and problems with weeping bushes I have a water tight boiler on the third hydraulic test, held 160psi for 15 minutes.

It's not pretty but it's water tight.

I received a great tip, after the boiler was finished off course, when making the threaded bushes drill and tap them with a blind hole then, when you test the boiler you don't need to fit blanking plugs, once the boiler is tested successfully finish drilling and tapping the threaded bushes.

I have done the boiler first as this was the biggest challenge, so pleased I can now get on with the frames and wheels etc.

Nigel

boiler on test.jpg

Edited By tractionengine42 on 27/09/2019 15:18:30

Thread: Allchin
27/09/2019 15:05:59
Posted by RICHARD CALLIS on 27/09/2019 13:44:08:

In the 2018 boiler guide it states that either the water gauge or injector can be fed from the manifold but not both. Has anyone overcome this.

Cheers

Richard

I've built a 3" Allchin with a steel boiler.

I fitted a plug between the two ports on the manifold, then ran a pipe from the boiler to the other end of the manifold so that the manifold is fed from both sides and each side only feeds one outlet.

My boiler has two ports under the crankshaft, I used one of these, I fitted a custom low profile elbow to it and ran the pipe under the gears and up to the manifold, it's a bit tight but easy enough to find a route that does not clash with anything moving. I used 1/4" pipe.

If you're building a 1-1/2" with a copper boiler then maybe you can add a threaded bush to the top of the boiler in a suitable location.

Nigel

Edited By tractionengine42 on 27/09/2019 15:29:55

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