Here is a list of all the postings tractionengine42 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Timesaver - which grades?|
Good point, when lapping I think it's beneficial aim for a smooth machined finish from which to start lapping.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 11/07/2019 11:07:45
I've lapped in bronze half bearings and only used the fine (yellow) grade and it quickly smoothed out the machining marks on a 3/4" diameter bearing, that said I think you will be ok with medium and fine for your application, you may be surprised at the rate of metal removal.
I used Medium Green on steel gears on my 3" traction engine, it worked a treat with only one application, made them smooth and much quieter.
|Thread: Beamish Museum|
There's also some interesting old machines at the Tanfield Railway workshops (not far from Beamish) including a small planer, (though it's been a few years since i visited). Not been to Beamish for 20 years, I think a visit is on the cards.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Thanks Duncan. Your recollection is correct, I have an ME article 21st Dec 1973 that gives corrections to the 5"g valve gear.
Started a new project, 5"g Lion. These are the boiler parts ready for the dreaded silver soldering, I'm tackling the boiler first as that is the biggest challenge for me, if I can achieve this then I can finish the engine.
I'm generally following the LBSC drawings but using photo's I took of the full size engine in the Liverpool City museum to add detail.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Could be hydrogen embrittlement, higher strength/hardness materials are more susceptible. I'm not an expert but basically the material absorbs hydrogen atoms which results in material becoming very susceptible to brittle failure and unable to sustain it's normal/design loads.
It can be cured buy heating the component over several hours at something like 200 deg but must be done very soon after the hydrogen embrittlement occurs, If not done in time then the heat treatment is not effective.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 02/04/2019 10:33:17
|Thread: Huloo from North East Scotland|
I'm not that far from you, just west of Alford.
Good to hear of another enthusiast in the NE Scotland. I am a member of the Aberdeen Model Engineering Society.
I did set up a face book page "here" as a place for local enthusiasts to communicate, but so far not done much to promote it, the little promotion I did didn't get any interest, but am keeping the page open for a while longer and maybe enough people may become interested in time.
Anyway, enjoy your new mill, it's exiting getting new tools and learning new skills, and it's great to share our home shop/modeling activity.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Andrew, I'm using a 0.2mm/20 deg point carbide engraving cutter at 20k rpm.
Another small name plate done on my home converted cnc mill. Very happy with this result.
|Thread: Mach 3 doesnt see UC100 contoller|
I'm using a uc300 with mach 3 on a windows 7 desktop computer. I had consistent problems with the UC300 disconnecting in the middle of a job and tried all sorts to resolve it. Then i realised the problem only occurred when I had the radio on, never had any problem since having the radio off while the cnc is running.
At first I thought it might be coincidence but after many months of reliable operation it seems to have been the problem. Presumably the radio is putting out some electrical noise.
Probably not related to your problem but thought I'd mention it.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 07/12/2018 10:49:12
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Thanks Neil, A blob of paint on the '8' will be too much, probably a tiny spec of paint will fix it, LOL.
BTW, that brick work on your model also looks fantastic.
Great looking engine Neil.
Today I was going to etch a small name plate for my Stuart 10V, I had good success previously with etching. Then decided give it a go on my home converted cnc mill, Very happy with the result though some improvements can be made for next time, done with a 0.2mm pcb carbide engraving cutter at 20k rpm.
I have a futrure project that requires spiral milling so today I have been busy converting a Drummond lathe head stock into a spiral milling attachment for my mill.
The first photo shows the head stock straight from the lathe. I stripped it down and machines the pulley casting, (which includes a gear for the back gear) then shrunk fitted and aluminium sleeve. The Aluminium sleeve was turned and milled to take a T5 timing belt, see second photo.
The plan is to use timing belts to get a drive from the mill lead screw. I think using the Drummond lathe head stock has benefits in that I can drive it in its high gear or in back gear. In backgear it gives me a 9:1 reduction not an ideal figure. The first job will require a 10:1 , so will use the back gear and have a small reduction from the lead screw using toothed belts.
The last photo shows the Drummond head stock converted, now I need to arrange for an intermediate shaft between the mill lead screw and the Drummond lathe head stock, that's tomorrows job, details to follow.
Yes, as Thiagussi says, the exhaust ports on this 1959 Triumph 5T cylinder head are threaded, they are 1-1/2" x 16tpi with 55 deg included angle.
|Thread: laying up an engine|
Apparently Lanolin is a good rust preventative. for steel parts.
Presumably it's a copper boiler so I don't think should have a problem.
My 3" Allchin has a steel boiler, for winter storage I'm filling it to the brim with water + boiler treatment added at a concentration used for a 1st steaming when new. and protected from frost. I'm intending trying lanolin for bear steel parts.
If possible keep it in a warm place.
Hope that's of some help.
How about bees wax on bear steel parts?
Edited By tractionengine42 on 05/11/2018 19:54:28
|Thread: Double diamond tool|
Here's another interesting variant by ROBRENZ a master at his art.
|Thread: The right sort of paint!|
I used Precision Paints enamel on my 3" scale traction engine cleading which has 4mm insulation. I've only steamed it for 1 year but no problems with the paint. However, if you can get the heat resistant paint mentioned above in the colour you want then go with that.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Not today but earlier in the week I made some exhaust adapters for a 1959 Triumph 5T motor bike being restored locally, I nice pleasurable turning job apart from them being in 316 st st. I was amazed when they fitted the cylinder head perfectly. Plus I made a short video of the process.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018|
The needles cost less than £2 the set and all the other materials were just some off cuts so a very cheap and quick project, the practice takes longer than the building.
I missed a digit off the last link, here it is again.
I have a Stuart 10V i'd like to paint and do a bit of lining on. I've done some lining with an old fashioned draughtsman pen but wanted to try a lining pen. I found some 'blunt dispensing needles' and used them to make a lining pen. My initial trials have given some pretty good results though I need to learn more of the technique. I made some video's to share the idea if anyone should be interested.
Edited By tractionengine42 on 01/11/2018 20:44:57
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