Here is a list of all the postings steamdave has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: what is it|
The compressor looks like a Stuart design that is based on their Sirius engine, which is 1" bore and stroke. That should give you a starting point!
|Thread: New Member from Ireland|
Trust you are a Munster supporter, then!
Welcome to the forum,John.
Just curious,what part of Ireland? Anywhere near West Cork?
|Thread: Jobs we had as kids|
Does anyone remember Bob-a-Job week for the wolf cubs/boy scouts?
Some of the jobs were easy and I got paid more than the Bob. Others were darned hard and/or dirty work and I got paid just the Bob. One I remember was having to clean an old brass/copper gas geyser that provided hot water for the bath. The housewife kept checking up on me and pointing out all the areas I had missed or not done to her satisfaction. About an hour's work for the Bob. That was as a lad of maybe 10 years old.
|Thread: Is there any tips for sawing aluminium|
Now, as for technique with your new blade:
With the bar in your vice, start sawing 'uphill' (from bottom front to top mid) then saw 'downhill' (from top mid to rear bottom). This will give you an inverted V shaped slot. Cut off the apex then resume as before. The logic behind this is that your cuts are shorter than just cutting straight across the bar.
Thanks to Tubal Caine (Tom Walshaw) for this method.
Now I've got a power hacksaw, my muscles have become all flabby without the use of Armstrong's Patent.
|Thread: UK availability of 1/8" Dia shank End mill/Slot drills|
The ones linked to are 1/4" shank.
For 1/8" shank, try eBay 282916540783. These are ball end, but he does do radiused end versions. Can't find any square end ones, though.
In times past, I've had some of these and they were good value.
|Thread: Silicone oven liner material|
I asked the question about sourcing teflon sheet for gaskets and one answer was to use oven liner.
Haven't tried it because I still have enough teflon sheet for my present project. I don't know the thickness, but I would have thought that oven liner would be a bit too thick for small engine gaskets. My teflon sheet is 0.006 thou thick (as close as I can measure it).
The Emerald Isle
Edited By steamdave on 30/08/2020 16:17:51
|Thread: De ham lathe|
First port of call would be lathes.co.uk
http://www.lathes.co.uk/denham/ Will give you a quick read on your lathe. It states that literature is available.
|Thread: Hydraulic ram machining|
Hydraulic rams - how easy/safe is it to remove the rod from the cylinder? There is not much force on the ram and no fluid leak.
|Thread: Myford ML7 questions|
You would do well to subscribe to the Myford group on .io There you will find a wealth of knowledge.
Not saying that there is a dearth of knowledge here, mind you!
|Thread: Spark plug washers and Teflon shim|
They will, but the question is still the same. Thankfully it has now been answered.
I knew you would have the info!
Any ideas where I can get spare spark plug washers for 1/4" x 32 plugs?
I've had a look at Hemingway and S/S but they don't appear to have them. The copper washers on eBay are too wide (difference between inner and outer diameters)
While I'm at it, who sells Teflon (PTFE) sheet in 5 or 10 thou thick sheets? No luck on eBay or the usual ME suppliers. If all else fails,I can get copper shim 0.2mm thick. I suppose that would be OK instead?
|Thread: Watchmaker's lathe|
Quite a number of years ago I came by a watchmaker's lathe. At the time, I knew nothing about it, but after giving it another looking at recently, I have discovered it is a Lorch.
Looking at the lathes.co.uk sight, it is actually a Lorch Schmidt 'Geneva' pattern 6mm lathe.
Unfortunately, what is pictured is all that I have. What the small brass 'pulley' is I have no idea, except that it is not really a pulley because it is fixed and at an angle to the lathe axis.
Originally I intended to try and make a few bits and pieces for it, but that is another job that will become a squaretuit as opposed to a roundtuit.
Just posting this out of interest to the watchmaking fraternity here.
|Thread: base finishing|
A bit late in the day, but I use a home brew furniture polish that resists oil and fuel quite well. It gives a matt sheen when buffed up.
1 part pure turpentine
Shake well and apply with a soft cloth to the bare wood. Several coats can be applied in fairly quick succession. I usually aim for a minimum of 4 coats. Keep it sealed in a small honey jar or similar and it will last for ages. Just shake again before using each time.
|Thread: Emco FB2 Quirks and Additions|
As a former FB2 owner, (who regrets changing it for a more modern machine) I seem to remember that removing tools from the spindle was no problem due to the top hat on the top of the spindle. Just screw the top hat down and pressure was brought to bear on the draw bar, et voila - the tool was out.
|Thread: Yet Another Mystery Object|
Indeed, it is the end of a sounding tape for manually dipping fuel (not cargo fuel) tanks. The tape was metal and graduated in inches, taking over from the graduated brass weight. The tape was wound on a reel.
Bilge sounding rods were usually thinner brass rods (1/2" or so diameter) about 12" long and the 'tape' was a rope. This was just coiled up after use.
At the bottom of all sounding pipes was a disc welded to the shell plating and due to the continual speedy lowering of the weights, this disc would quite quickly become pitted. It was not unknown for the weight to become detached from the tape and lodge at the bottom of the sounding pipe staying there until the next drydocking! Needless to say, spare sounding tapes were always carried on board.
|Thread: Hammer flipping experiment?|
Or for some Real fun with a hammer, try this:
|Thread: Spark plug lead|
Thanks for the suggestions, guys.
I have some black test lead, got specially for ignition systems so will try soldering a piece to the end of the red supplied plug lead (which is solid copper wire). If it works, I will take the plunge and cut the red lead down reasonably close to the box and re-solder. The join I will cover with some heat shrink tape.
I'm not too concerned with electrical radiation in a small engine. There are many other model engines around that run satisfactorily without complaints about interference.
Thanks for the suggestion of phos. bronze, Roger. I've got some beryllium copper strip that I will try.
I'm building a slow revving single cylinder I.C. engine and intend to use a Chinee ignition unit with potted components. (Sold as a spare part for the Chinee hit n miss engines).
The spark plug lead is red and I want black. Is there any electrical reason why I cannot solder a black lead onto the (shortened) red lead? I did think about covering the red lead in black heat shrink sleeving, but that would make it very bulky.
While in questioning mode, how do you make the spark plug clip - the type that slides on the groove at the end of the plug? I've tried drilling a piece of brass and slitting it, but that soon loses its spring. Spark plug size is 1/4" x 32 if that makes a difference. The modern type that are usually covered in a boot is not what I'm wanting.
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