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Member postings for steamdave

Here is a list of all the postings steamdave has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford ML7 Tooling & Equipment
16/06/2012 23:26:58

John

For sound advice on all things Myford, join the Yahoo Myford Lathes group.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/myfordlathes/

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: posting adverts and offers
08/05/2012 11:36:32

Another good place to put an advert is http://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Harrogate Show
08/05/2012 11:34:18

And I'll be crossing the watery divide from Ireland. Hope to be there on Friday and Saturday.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Homeworkshop web site
27/04/2012 09:56:54

Well, all of a sudden things have changed and the page opens as normal without any extra input from me! Cyber magic or wot?

Dave

The Emerald Isle

26/04/2012 23:46:30

When I try and open the Homeworkshop site, I get the We use cookies on this site page, but nowhere to accept them and move on to the real content.

Paragraphs I can see are:

What cookies do we use

Your privacy

Cookie removal

Cookie usage.

Thats it. The page never finishes loading. I use Opera 11.62 and am loathe to change to some other browser. What to do? How to move on?

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Polly Models AGE
04/04/2012 23:22:50

Here's a picture of the modified head. I took the opportunity to put the bevel on the inside of the port while the head was off for the engine overhaul.

Modified head

Dave

The Emerald Isle

04/04/2012 12:46:45

John

Hope you manage to get back to the Scott quite soon. I had a look at your work over on MM and was mightily impressed. Don't let it gather too much dust!

It is. or in my case now, was a very interesting runner. Mine looks very sad at the moment with all the corrosion on the bare parts.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

04/04/2012 12:39:58

Norman

Minimum friction in all moving parts is essential to success. Spring tension needs to be the bare minimum to keep the block against the cylinder head. The springs are too stiff as supplied, but take care and don't stretch them too much. If that has happened, cut off a couple of turns and try again. Guess how I found out!

Dave

The Emerald Isle

03/04/2012 22:50:52

Norman

I made the Scott a couple of years ago and it fired up first time, much to my surprise for a flame licker. One change I made is to ease the flame path into the cylinder by arranging the graphite valve block to drop down to close the port, rather than lifting to close, as shown on the drawings.

I am trying to strip it down at the moment because I used antifreeze as a coolant and everything not painted has corroded quite badly. (I kept it in its own wooden travelling box and that exacerbated the problem). I thought antifreeze was supposed to stop that sort of problem?

One mod I read about somewhere that I intend to try is to bevel the inside of the intake port. Don't know whether it will have any effect, positive or otherwise, but it's worth a try.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

03/04/2012 20:07:41

Has anyone made the Polly Models Atmosheric Gas Engine and got it to run successfully?

It looks an interesting little engine but I understand it can be a real challenge to get it to run because the original design from the 1900s on which it is based used coal gas as fuel.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Thoughts on the Emco Lathe & Millier
03/04/2012 19:57:21

John

I had a Unimat 3 combo and was very pleased with it except that I thought the motor was a bit weak at 120 watt and also it was only intermittently rated.

The motor had to be taken from the headstock and mounted to the milling column, but this was a case of just taking off and tightening two bolts. You could of course get a second motor, but if not much milling is envisaged, then hold on to your cash. The U4, which I believe is Far Eastern made, has a more powerful and continuously rated motor. Apart from that the two models look the same to me, although no doubt there are detail differences.

If you get a U3 or 4, which are much more rigid than the original SL (which only had a 90 watt motor), get hold of the books 'Making the Most of the Unimat' by Rex Tingey and also the book by Bob Loader, the name of which escapes me at the moment. Both give details of useful improvements and accessories that can easily be made.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Which boring head should I go for?
18/03/2012 19:22:16

For a long while I used an Arrand Engineering boring head. When I changed my milling machine, I sold the Arrand head (separately) and bought a Far Eastern 2" boring head. They appear to be the same whatever badge is on them. BIG mistake. Wish I had kept the Arrand head now and indeed, may even save up for another one.

I must say I like the look of Graham's boring/facing head!

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Stirling hot air engine plans
29/02/2012 16:09:09

Clarence Myers has a design for a stove top fan. Not sure whether he would sell you the drawings without the castings, though.

http://myersengines.com/_x/

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Double thread T- nuts
26/01/2012 21:02:14
Posted by colin hawes on 26/01/2012 17:53:28:
Make sure you can get a longer nut into the T slot! There is not enough space on my minimill.
Colin

My sentiments exactly. My Wabeco mill has very limited clearance at the end of the table to get Tee nuts in. Certainly not enough for MiteeBite type low profile clamps.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: collet holders???
17/01/2012 13:19:07

I had a FB2 for many years. I never had to change the gearbox oil because it leaked out through the quill, so it was just a case of topping it up using 32 grade hydraulic oil (same as Myfords use). As an aside, ProMachine reckon that 80% of FB2 quills leak.

Draw bars are easy to make. Just a length of 10mm bar. Put the desired thread on the working end (M10 or 3/8" BSW). For the other end, get an M10 cap screw turn it down to put a smaller thread on it. Drill and tap the top end of the prospective drawbar the same and screw and Loctite the cap screw in. Done.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Zeroed Cross Slide
05/01/2012 15:04:01

There are several designs, the earliest that I know of was by GHT in the mid 1970s. Issues 3572 (Nov 1977), 3573, 3574, 3575, 3576. These articles cover micrometer dials for the whole Series 7 lathes.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Sherline verses Cowells
15/12/2011 14:44:15

I am surprised that no-one has mentioned the Unimat. I have no experience with the latest incarnation, but the U3 served me well for many a year - in fact it was the first lathe I owned. The attachments are plentiful and books and many articles have been written about making accessories for it. I believe that the U4 has addressed the lack of power and the fact that the U3 motor was only intermittent rated.

I found the milling attachment quite useful, even though in larger size machines the combi machine is restricting.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: MEW, would less be more?
04/12/2011 11:50:07

Gave up ME soon after I moved to Ireland, but kept on MEW. If it was possible to get the two magazines in one wrapper (to reduce postage charges), I might consider returning.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

01/12/2011 10:48:20

Talking of advertising. Remember the days in ME when the adverts were all grouped at the front and back of the magazine and you could read the contents Without distraction?

Dave

The Emerald Isle

Thread: Moving a lathe
27/11/2011 09:55:17

I moved my workshop, which included an M300, from England to Ireland. All machines were loaded into a 7.5t lorry with a 1t tail lift. A combination of a pallet truck and 2t engine hoist (for the extra outreach) proved to be perfectly satisfactory.

As far as I know, a 7.5t lorry is the smallest with the required power in the tail lift for your lathe. If you consider a Hiab, make sure it has sufficient outreach for your needs. You will still need the pallet truck and/or engine hoist. The pallet truck is not long enough to support the weight of the lathe if loaded lengthways. The engine hoist, lifting from the screw in eye (use a certified eye) has barely sufficient height to clear the bottom frame of the hoist. Using a sling round the bed would probably result in even less lifting height.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

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