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Member postings for steamdave

Here is a list of all the postings steamdave has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Magnetic chucks on smallish mills
23/07/2014 12:24:05
Posted by David Colwill on 23/07/2014 09:33:56:

I have a round magnetic chuck which I use on my lathe in exactly the way John McNamara describes, it works very well even on small items. You can only take fine cuts but I find it extremely useful.

Regards.

David.

Note quite the answer to the original question, but for occasional use on a lathe, a superglue chuck would be a lot more compact, lighter and cheaper for the small jobs that seem to be mentioned as being suitable for magnetic chucks. Also, a superglue chuck can be used for non-ferrous work.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


Thread: UK Museums to see old stationary engines
21/07/2014 11:56:00

If you can get out to deepest, darkest west Wales, between Cardigan and Aberystwyth, there is also the Museum Of Internal Fire.

http://www.internalfire.com/

The main difference between this one and the Anson is that Internal Fire try to display the engines in a period working environment.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Stirling engine bits
17/07/2014 23:01:33

If you still want to use a glass cylinder and piston, have a look at eBay 310970428925.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Edith
07/07/2014 11:44:49

I don't know anything about Edith. Is it a reprint or a new model?

From your description, I seem to recall that this technique was known as gummed paper strip construction. In days gone by, you could buy rolls of brown paper strip gummed on one side. Pas partout? Perhaps papier mache could be used.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Which is the best parting tool ?
24/06/2014 10:12:33

Once you have got the Best parting tool sorted, you may wish to consider a parting tool for small parts. The large wide tools may be rigid, but they can waste a lot of material.

For small parts, tubes and pieces using up odd ends, a parting tool made from a broken hacksaw blade has much to recommend it. A suitable holder can be made in a short time and can be used at the front or rear position.

[URL=https://imageshack.com/i/31hacksawpartingtoolj][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/109/hacksawpartingtool.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=https://imageshack.com/i/59hacksawpartingtoolbitsj][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/189/hacksawpartingtoolbits.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Dave
The Emerald Isle


Thread: Searching for rubber seal
18/06/2014 10:22:29

Peter: That's the stuff I was thinking about. Thanks

Bob: You've missed out Fireballs. And Hornets - good fun with the sliding seats!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

17/06/2014 16:09:35

Further elaboration: The 3/4" panels slide into channels that are a nominal 2" inside width. The channels are secured to the doorframes and remain in place. (and are relatively unobtrusive and do not impede access/egress from the building. The panels with ali trim and say, 1/2" thick seal have plenty of room to slide in and out. To prevent them floating upwards before the water pressure creates a seal, two thumb screws hold the panels in place. Water pressure is not an issue to the frames due to how/where they are secured. It is the inside edge of the channel that bears against the doorframe that takes the pressure, thus, no loading on it.

Jason: Another good suggestion. Will look at it closely later.

Neil: Air bricks? Not on the premises we are looking at, but a good point nevertheless.

John: Regular flooding is a perennial problem in West Cork towns. Cork city had a seal swimming in one of the main shopping streets during the last winter floods!

Dave
The Emerald Isle


16/06/2014 17:36:16

Firstly, thanks for the replies.

To elaborate. I will be using 3/4" marine ply initially, but later may drop to 1/2" thickness because of weight. Panels are about 32" square. I need the seals on 2 vertical faces and across the bottom, which is the undulating part - where it seals to, not my cutting of the ply! The edges of the ply are bound with ali angle to prevent damage to the end grain. The panels slide in ali channels on each side of the door frame.

Any ex RN or MN types out there? The seals for manual closing watertight doors was the initial thought, but I can't remember the specs for it. It was reasonably bungy, but still quite hard wearing.

Bob: I'll search through the link, but looks promising. Perhaps I can get some ideas from there and adapt them.

Gordon: I've considered plastic tubing, but the problem is securing it. Some sort of Selastic is OK, but screws through the tube as the back up will destroy the seal - unless there is a way to secure through only one wall thickness.

Bazyle: 1" is the width, but it could go down to 3/4". Not to do with misalignment - that's the thickness's job. Have thought about draft excluder type stuff, but these barriers are slide in when flood threat is imminent and slide out and stored at all other times.

S,M! Bicycle inner tubes, empty, have been considered, but were dismissed because of trying to keep them straight and likely poor lifespan in use.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

16/06/2014 15:30:18

I'm looking for some rubber type seal, size about 1" x 1/4" and 1" x 3/8", quite a lot to use as sealing round flood barriers for people's homes in a charitable venture. The seal will be glued to varnished plywood and backed up by screws through into the wood. (At least that is the present idea).

Not really sure what I want, so googling is a bit difficult. Needs to be soft enough to be able to seal against a non-perfect bottom, but not so soft that it tears with repeated possibly careless use.

Neoprene would give a good seal, but not be too hard wearing in this usage. Solid rubber would give the hard wearing characteristic, but would be no good on undulating surfaces. I've even looked at sash window seals, but again, not hard wearing enough for this use.

Your thoughts, gentlemen, Please.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Chamfering on the lathe
23/05/2014 20:09:47

I can't disagree with the short chamfer methods suggested.

For a long internal chamfer, why not use a boring bar with the toolpost set round to the required angle? Just feed in with the topslide. Use the X axis for the depth of feed.

For an outside chamfer, use any toolbit that has a straight edge with the toolpost swung round to the required angle and just feed in. Jason's set up for the external chamfer will avoid hitting the wrong bits of the lathe.

Am I missing something?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Problem setting up stationary engine.
26/04/2014 19:28:42

Brian

I don't know where you are located, but is there a model engineering club or another engine builder anywhere near where you live? If so, why not take your engine along and let others see first hand what the problem is. Being able to see up close and dirty will be a lot easier to diagnose the fault than trying to describe things in writing.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
14/03/2014 15:56:53
Posted by JasonB on 13/03/2014 16:54:47:

As out of place on the road as a Loco build would be in MEWcheeky

J

PS hope you were not driving

Edited By JasonB on 13/03/2014 16:55:28

Oh, I thought he meant the truck!

Dave
The Emerald Isle


Thread: Thickness of Bahco Sandflex 12" hacksaw blade.
10/02/2014 17:33:45
Posted by Stub Mandrel on 10/02/2014 11:47:16:

Personally i swear by Starrett blades, when I can get them.

Neil

I swear AT Starrett blades. Bought a bunch of bi metallic ones some years ago and the teeth seem to just Fall off, regardless of the tension put on the hacksaw frame.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Has the world gone mad
23/01/2014 14:33:26

Posted by Ian S C on 23/01/2014 10:15:09:

We should be able to soon do the house lighting circuit with low voltage, maybe 6V DC or less if all the lights go LED, that might make for safety. Ian S C

'Fraid that's old hat. It was proposed in the early 80's. I remember reading an article in Pop. Science showing an 'energy saving' house built in Arizona (I think). Among the ideas was using 12v for all lighting circuits.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


Thread: Name change
19/12/2013 10:42:10
Posted by blowlamp on 19/12/2013 10:17:42:

What's good enough for a Knight of the Realm is good enough for me.

Once a King, always a King.
Once a Night is enough.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: THIEL DUPLEX universal machines or bridgeport series 1
22/11/2013 22:25:27

I've had my Thiel 158 for a number of years now, and am very pleased with it. I was lucky to get a torpedo vertical head for it, the only downside to which was that it has a MT5 socketr, whereas the horizontal spindle has a Thiel taper. I made up a number of MT5 blanks which have been converted into toolholding as required.

There's a bit of backlash in the X axis, but the DRO takes care of any positioning problems.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: eBAY Charges
22/11/2013 22:08:54

Many German eBay sellers, it seems, do not accept PayPal.. When I purchased something from Germany recently, PayPal wasn't even an option. Bank transfer was how I had to do the deal. I looked at several other items for sale from different sellers and they were the same.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Knurling tool - which one to buy
03/10/2013 12:46:11

The Hemmingway Sensitive knurler is a copy of the Marlco item. The design for model engineering first appeared in EIM vol 2(?), but Hemmingway have probably 'refined' that design somewhat.

Construction was not very difficult, and this said by a metal butcher.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Best universal (horizontal + vertical) milling machine
02/10/2013 17:19:36

I'm very pleased with my Thiel 158. Fortunately, it came with all the original attachments, which is just as well because if anything can be found, it tends to be quite expensive. I removed the very suspect electrics and now run it from a 1 - 3 phase inverter. I've also added a 3 axis DRO because there is a bit of backlash, particularly in the X axis. I know I can compensate for this manually, but I'm lazy!

Originally supplied to the Armstrong Whitworth Aircraft company in 1971.

This is a Ram type machine. The vertical head stays in place when in horizontal mode. The 28 x 10" table tilts 30 degrees left/right, front back and the table is removable leaving 2 horizontal Tee slots for mounting tools, although I have never done a job that needs this facility. I would like the fixed table if I could ever find one at an economic price just for the extra real estate it provides.

The footprint for quite a large machine is moderate, but the weight of the machine bare is approximately 1.25 T. It still sits on the industrial pallet that it was delivered on, although it had chocks inserted between the top and bottom planks. I don't have the headroom to lift it off the pallet, but there has been no problem for the 10 years or so that have owned it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Cutting Gears
27/07/2013 22:35:00
Posted by Carl Wilson 4 on 27/07/2013 21:52:34:

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

Further to my researches into gear manufacture, and to be more specific, making some imperial change gears for my Harrison M250. The Harrison change gears have a female spline as their driving feature, and I have learned from a source on the Yahoo Harrison Lathe Group that such a spline can be made using a keyway broach. This makes sense to me, but I'm wondering, does anyone have any experience in the use of keyway broaches? If so can you give me some pointers? I understand they are used in conjunction with an Arbor press. I hear this is better than using a hydraulic press as there is more feel.

Any advice gratefully received. Many thanks,

Carl.

Or you can make a simple keyway slotter to mount in the toolpost.

http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Keyway_Slotting_Attachment.html shows a stand-alone item for a Myford lathe, but the basic idea can be adapted to fit your toolpost.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

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