Here is a list of all the postings steamdave has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Magnetic chucks on smallish mills|
|Thread: UK Museums to see old stationary engines|
If you can get out to deepest, darkest west Wales, between Cardigan and Aberystwyth, there is also the Museum Of Internal Fire.
The main difference between this one and the Anson is that Internal Fire try to display the engines in a period working environment.
|Thread: Stirling engine bits|
If you still want to use a glass cylinder and piston, have a look at eBay 310970428925.
I don't know anything about Edith. Is it a reprint or a new model?
From your description, I seem to recall that this technique was known as gummed paper strip construction. In days gone by, you could buy rolls of brown paper strip gummed on one side. Pas partout? Perhaps papier mache could be used.
|Thread: Which is the best parting tool ?|
Once you have got the Best parting tool sorted, you may wish to consider a parting tool for small parts. The large wide tools may be rigid, but they can waste a lot of material.
For small parts, tubes and pieces using up odd ends, a parting tool made from a broken hacksaw blade has much to recommend it. A suitable holder can be made in a short time and can be used at the front or rear position.
|Thread: Searching for rubber seal|
Peter: That's the stuff I was thinking about. Thanks
Bob: You've missed out Fireballs. And Hornets - good fun with the sliding seats!
Further elaboration: The 3/4" panels slide into channels that are a nominal 2" inside width. The channels are secured to the doorframes and remain in place. (and are relatively unobtrusive and do not impede access/egress from the building. The panels with ali trim and say, 1/2" thick seal have plenty of room to slide in and out. To prevent them floating upwards before the water pressure creates a seal, two thumb screws hold the panels in place. Water pressure is not an issue to the frames due to how/where they are secured. It is the inside edge of the channel that bears against the doorframe that takes the pressure, thus, no loading on it.
Jason: Another good suggestion. Will look at it closely later.
Neil: Air bricks? Not on the premises we are looking at, but a good point nevertheless.
John: Regular flooding is a perennial problem in West Cork towns. Cork city had a seal swimming in one of the main shopping streets during the last winter floods!
Firstly, thanks for the replies.
To elaborate. I will be using 3/4" marine ply initially, but later may drop to 1/2" thickness because of weight. Panels are about 32" square. I need the seals on 2 vertical faces and across the bottom, which is the undulating part - where it seals to, not my cutting of the ply! The edges of the ply are bound with ali angle to prevent damage to the end grain. The panels slide in ali channels on each side of the door frame.
Any ex RN or MN types out there? The seals for manual closing watertight doors was the initial thought, but I can't remember the specs for it. It was reasonably bungy, but still quite hard wearing.
Bob: I'll search through the link, but looks promising. Perhaps I can get some ideas from there and adapt them.
Gordon: I've considered plastic tubing, but the problem is securing it. Some sort of Selastic is OK, but screws through the tube as the back up will destroy the seal - unless there is a way to secure through only one wall thickness.
Bazyle: 1" is the width, but it could go down to 3/4". Not to do with misalignment - that's the thickness's job. Have thought about draft excluder type stuff, but these barriers are slide in when flood threat is imminent and slide out and stored at all other times.
S,M! Bicycle inner tubes, empty, have been considered, but were dismissed because of trying to keep them straight and likely poor lifespan in use.
I'm looking for some rubber type seal, size about 1" x 1/4" and 1" x 3/8", quite a lot to use as sealing round flood barriers for people's homes in a charitable venture. The seal will be glued to varnished plywood and backed up by screws through into the wood. (At least that is the present idea).
Not really sure what I want, so googling is a bit difficult. Needs to be soft enough to be able to seal against a non-perfect bottom, but not so soft that it tears with repeated possibly careless use.
Neoprene would give a good seal, but not be too hard wearing in this usage. Solid rubber would give the hard wearing characteristic, but would be no good on undulating surfaces. I've even looked at sash window seals, but again, not hard wearing enough for this use.
Your thoughts, gentlemen, Please.
|Thread: Chamfering on the lathe|
I can't disagree with the short chamfer methods suggested.
For a long internal chamfer, why not use a boring bar with the toolpost set round to the required angle? Just feed in with the topslide. Use the X axis for the depth of feed.
For an outside chamfer, use any toolbit that has a straight edge with the toolpost swung round to the required angle and just feed in. Jason's set up for the external chamfer will avoid hitting the wrong bits of the lathe.
Am I missing something?
|Thread: Problem setting up stationary engine.|
I don't know where you are located, but is there a model engineering club or another engine builder anywhere near where you live? If so, why not take your engine along and let others see first hand what the problem is. Being able to see up close and dirty will be a lot easier to diagnose the fault than trying to describe things in writing.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
|Thread: Thickness of Bahco Sandflex 12" hacksaw blade.|
I swear AT Starrett blades. Bought a bunch of bi metallic ones some years ago and the teeth seem to just Fall off, regardless of the tension put on the hacksaw frame.
|Thread: Has the world gone mad|
|Thread: Name change|
Once a King, always a King.
|Thread: THIEL DUPLEX universal machines or bridgeport series 1|
I've had my Thiel 158 for a number of years now, and am very pleased with it. I was lucky to get a torpedo vertical head for it, the only downside to which was that it has a MT5 socketr, whereas the horizontal spindle has a Thiel taper. I made up a number of MT5 blanks which have been converted into toolholding as required.
There's a bit of backlash in the X axis, but the DRO takes care of any positioning problems.
|Thread: eBAY Charges|
Many German eBay sellers, it seems, do not accept PayPal.. When I purchased something from Germany recently, PayPal wasn't even an option. Bank transfer was how I had to do the deal. I looked at several other items for sale from different sellers and they were the same.
|Thread: Knurling tool - which one to buy|
The Hemmingway Sensitive knurler is a copy of the Marlco item. The design for model engineering first appeared in EIM vol 2(?), but Hemmingway have probably 'refined' that design somewhat.
Construction was not very difficult, and this said by a metal butcher.
|Thread: Best universal (horizontal + vertical) milling machine|
I'm very pleased with my Thiel 158. Fortunately, it came with all the original attachments, which is just as well because if anything can be found, it tends to be quite expensive. I removed the very suspect electrics and now run it from a 1 - 3 phase inverter. I've also added a 3 axis DRO because there is a bit of backlash, particularly in the X axis. I know I can compensate for this manually, but I'm lazy!
Originally supplied to the Armstrong Whitworth Aircraft company in 1971.
This is a Ram type machine. The vertical head stays in place when in horizontal mode. The 28 x 10" table tilts 30 degrees left/right, front back and the table is removable leaving 2 horizontal Tee slots for mounting tools, although I have never done a job that needs this facility. I would like the fixed table if I could ever find one at an economic price just for the extra real estate it provides.
The footprint for quite a large machine is moderate, but the weight of the machine bare is approximately 1.25 T. It still sits on the industrial pallet that it was delivered on, although it had chocks inserted between the top and bottom planks. I don't have the headroom to lift it off the pallet, but there has been no problem for the 10 years or so that have owned it.
|Thread: Cutting Gears|
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.