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Member postings for steamdave

Here is a list of all the postings steamdave has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Recomendations for a Keyless Chuck?
31/12/2021 07:47:30

The only disadvantage of a keyless chuck over a conventional type is that when used in the milling machine, a lot of headroom is lost.

Maybe not an issue on larger machines, but it needs to be taken into consideration on smaller hobby type mills.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: A great Victorian BRITISH Scam!
21/12/2021 14:54:14
Posted by PaulG on 21/12/2021 12:30:36:

... I have to admit that I am one of those sad people who have a (modest) collection of old sewing machines. I never cease to be amazed that on approaching 150 years of age they can still work perfectly. A tribute to the design and more importantly the suitability of the design for production in such astronomical quantities.

Last time I visited Oldway Mansion I thought an opportunity had been lost to develop the sewing machine theme further. Other interested parties (if there are any) might be interested to visit the London Sewing Machine Museum in Wimbledon when it reopens, which houses an excellent collection.

The wife of an acquaintance in Oregon has a collection of more than 100 sewing machines. All different shapes and sizes. All fully working and like you, I was amazed in the quality of the workmanship of the period.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: (again) buying new European made lathe
14/12/2021 16:30:59
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 13/12/2021 19:31:16:

It looks as if you've rather decided!

Wabeco has been advertising in ME for some years now, and though I have not seen the name mentioned by users, would think that longevity must be in their favour.

Warco usually has a good name, but I have not seen the threads you mean. Possibly some people have had unhappy experiences with their own examples but generally they are popular machine-tools, suggesting the Warco company itself is normally on top of the quality-control.

I would suggest that using the mass as a factor should be in conjunction with the volume. You do not want a lathe that is fairly light-weight because it is not very robust for its capacity.

I have a Wabeco milling machine. I bought it in favour of a far eastern equivalent because of where I live and I liked the idea of a 5 year warranty and 'German' quality. It was nearly 3 times the cost of the equivalent far eastern machine.

My machine was made in the far east and finished / checked in Germany. It was about 2 weeks over the 5 year warranty period when the European built-in inverter blew up. The UK supplier of Wabeco tools wanted £1000 for a new motor/inverter combo. What I did was buy a separate inverter for 25% of the price and wired it into the original motor. Still going strong.

Moral of the story: Just because it is labelled as 'Made in Germany', or wherever and there is a long warranty period doesn't make the tool any better than a far eastern machine.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Plans and castings
18/11/2021 18:01:01

Or, if you fancy making a Stuart engine, look on eBay for the castings. That way should get you a set at a lot less than what Stuarts are asking. If they are being sold without drawings, these are available from Stuart Models. Other designs also frequently come up for sale. Probably best to avoid part built engines, at least to start with - you never know what horrors you may come across.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: UK fires up old coal power plant as gas prices soar
04/11/2021 11:54:00
Posted by Journeyman on 04/11/2021 09:05:38:

There still seems to be very little progress towards developing tidal power in the UK. If there's one thing we have in abundance it's plenty of coastline and the tides are reliable and predictable. France has had *** La Rance Barrage *** operating for years but all we seem to have come up with is *** Salters Duck *** and that's about it.

Perhaps spend a bit more on tidal power research and less on generating hot air at COP 26frown

John

10 years or so ago, there was an experimental tidal generator in the Bay Of Fundy (Canada). Talking to crew members of the support vessel, they told me that the generator lasted about 6 months before being destroyed by boulders being washed to and fro on the tides trying to pass through the generator. Apparently, it did produce good quantities of electricity when it (briefly) worked.

On one of the previous posts about Pumped Hydro, this system, but using sea water, has been working in Okinawa for about 20 years. There is a plan to copy their design in Co. Mayo, Ireland where a lake 150m above sea level is located very close to the sea. Like most things in Ireland, it might get built one day after all the bureaucratic interference has been overcome.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Ludwig-Hunger valve seat cutter
14/10/2021 15:36:25

I had never heard of a Ludwig Hunger valve seat cutter before, so did a quick search and I found out the company is still in business.

https://www.ludwig-hunger.de/index.php/eng/Products/Automotive/Counterboring-valve-seat-ring-bores

Maybe worth contacting them.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Tundish - how to make?
28/09/2021 15:07:34

I'm not going down any sort of casting process. I've got enough processes to cope with at the moment. But thanks for your idea Tim.

Tug. I've decided on the silver soldered approach and will consider the surface finish when I've achieved a suitable shape. Probably several weeks down the line at the speed I work at.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

25/09/2021 22:21:44

Peter. I don't have a 3D printer, nor do I know anyone with one, so that idea is out.

I think I will go with my original idea and carve from the solid, cut off a slice and silver solder a flat plate where the slice was removed. The bead will be incorporated in the turning of the outside and I'll pre-solder a bead on the flat plate before securing it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

25/09/2021 15:24:24

I've just registered with T.T., Andrew, in order to search for the topic.

Noel. The original may well have been cast, but at the scale I'm using the use of something like coarse Scotchbrite to take away the shine will probably not look too different. Besides, I have no casting facilities or experience nor is there anyone locally with such knowledge. I suppose I did ask for other ideas!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

25/09/2021 14:04:19

I need to make a tundish for my present project. Basically it is a truncated cone, but it has a flat side to it.

tundish 2.jpg

The top is about 1-5/16" diameter and the hex at the bottom is 5/16".

I thought about initially turning the round shape from a piece of brass bar and then slicing off a section and soldering on a piece of flat plate to give the required shape. It would be quite wasteful of the brass bar, but I do have a suitable piece that has been waiting to be used.

Another thought was to roll the tube from brass sheet after soldering on the top lip then solder in the bottom. Finally slice off a part and solder on the flat. My main worry with this method is trying to roll the tube with the bead pre-soldered on. If I leave the bead off, I doubt my silver soldering skills are good enough to roll the bead afterwards and silver solder it on before cutting out a section for the flat part.

Any other ideas would be welcome.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Governor drive belt
04/09/2021 16:16:49
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 04/09/2021 14:21:06:

The drive belt for the fan on my Farm Boy is made from 1.8 mm O ring material joined with a simple butt join glued with a generic cyanoacrelate (super glue). I've been very pleasantly surprised how robust the belt is, so a simple glued butt join may well be worth a try.

HTH,

Rod

It is interesting to learn that 'super glue' is flexible and lasting enough for a drive belt. If asked, I would have thought that Evostik type glue would have been the choice for this type of job.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Disposal of swarf
03/09/2021 12:18:22

I bag mine up in industrial plastic bags then when I've got sufficient waste of all kinds, I take a trip to the recycling centre. If I'm getting short of bags (very rarely), I'll empty them and fill them up a 2nd or even 3rd time. 4 EU. for a car load of waste every few months won't break the bank.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Firebox lining
30/08/2021 14:11:48
Posted by JasonB on 30/08/2021 06:55:06:

In that case Dave why not just use a stove paint, that is what I have used on my Robinson and Heinrici and CHUK without problems as well as quite a few IC engine exhausts. Thermacure is the one I like

I might just do that.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

30/08/2021 12:06:14

Very nice looking engine there, John.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

29/08/2021 21:05:28

I believe the main reason for the lining is not so much to retain any heat, but to prevent the paint coating getting damaged by the heat. With the (hopefully) small flame, there should not be as much heat as from my gas torch and maybe the Kaowool in greater thickness will be adequate for the second engine (steel firebox, about 3" diameter).

John P. What did you use for the lining in your firebox? Engine is the Improved Rider, 2" bore from Myers.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

29/08/2021 16:47:12

Q1.
I need to line the cast aluminium firebox of a hot air engine. I have some welder's ceramic blanket. What is the best way to secure this inside the 'box? The 20th cent. building notes suggest using furnace cement, but I was wondering whether there was a different suggestion for the 21st cent. Would beads of JB Weld around the top/bottom and joints be up to the task?


07. firebox 2200-4.jpg

Q2.
For the next project. Another hot air engine. Again, firebox lining, this time it is a steel tube. I was going to use Kaowool, but giving my 2mm sheet a quick blast with my propane torch, the Kaowool curled up and died. The engine will be gas fuelled, so is there any other material I could use? And how to secure it?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Vise/Vice advise
10/08/2021 16:56:56

I was going to suggest the Warco DH1 vice
https://www.warco.co.uk/machine-vices-vice-jaws/303151-dh-1-precision-vice.html?search_query=vice&results=65
but I've just noticed the price!

I've had one for a number of years and have always found it does the job for me. Should any job be too small for it, the easiest way round about would be to make up an 'infinite length' vice. I tried to find a good pic, of one, but my quick search came up empty.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thread: Running needle roller bearings
28/07/2021 15:36:19

I'm going to go for the bronze bushings, and like the idea of the sintered bronze idea (Oilite?) One advantage is that they have a smaller overall dimension than needle rollers or ball bearings and this helps getting closer to scale full size dimensions and shape with the bearing housings.

(J.B. it's the Improved Rider engine.)

Dave
The Emerald Isle

27/07/2021 20:45:13

Thanks for the suggestions, gents.

Because the engine will be slow revving, developing little power (hot air engine) I will modify the design and use gunmetal bushings. Lot less chance of um...mishap.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

27/07/2021 17:01:00

Is it necessary to run needle roller bearings on hardened steel shafts?

I'm making a slow running engine (up to 200 rpm sort of speed) and the drawings show roller bearings on crankshaft and con rod ends. The two cranks are overhung on each end of the crankshaft. Diameter of shaft is 1/2" for main bearings reducing to 5/16" for the crank arm location.

I don't want to use hardened steel if I don't have to because of probable distortion when cooling, even if plunged end on.

If I can run on unhardened silver steel, I was considering eBay UK 222987986234 for the job.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

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