Member postings for steamdave

Just to show that I do follow up on the answers to my questions. Well, some of them!

These are my soft jaws. 2-1/4" Ali hex. The holes are .700" and the jaws are locked in place by M3 cap screws with the heads reduced in diameter a few thou. The front faces have deliberately not been faced.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

"Good judgement is the result of experience and experience is the result of bad judgement." Mark Twain

Dave
The Emerald Isle

That's it DC. Many thanks.

Also, your idea Mike was one I had seen before but had forgotten about.

Now to put some redundant ali hex to good use.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

That's £30 too much for me Clive!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Somewhere, sometime ago there was a description of how to make soft jaws for a 3 jaw chuck. The method used hex aluminium with holes bored through the centre to fit over each jaw projection and secured somehow to the jaws.

Does anyone remember the design and where I would be able to find it? A Google search doesn't bring up anything for me.

I have seen Harold Hall's design, but I don't want to drill the jaws of my Pratt Burnerd chuck.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Vic. If I get enough plastic film, I'll give your idea a try. In the meantime, I have a new official one winging its way here.

Mark. Nothing out of the ordinary for a detached garage workshop, so I'll just make sure to keep it out of sunlight so that it doesn't roast.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I have a sanding belt cleaner - one of those rubber sticks that you press against the belt as it's running. Had it maybe about 3 or 4 years. Went to use it today and it just melted and clogged up the belt. Belt ruined.

Looking at the cleaner, it has gone very spongy. Has anyone any ideas how/why this could happen? I've ordered a new one and don't want to let the same thing happen to it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

And then there was MiniBrix - rubber blocks that clipped together somewhat like Lego.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Another good book is 'Making the Most Of The Unimat' by Rex Tingey.

Should be available for download off the Internet, but if you can't find it, I can let you have a copy.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I used to have a GHT 4 way indexing toolpost for my Myford. Actually I made 2, one for machining ferrous metals, the other for non-ferrous. Surprisingly I very rarely changed between the two blocks, it was quicker to swap out the cutting tools (which were kept pre-shimmed). A few years ago when 'everybody' was advocating the QCTP made by a company supplying Myford, I changed over. Biggest mistake I ever made.

It maybe 'quick change', but not as quick as spinning the turret round one or 2 places. It is definitely not as rigid as the GHT toolpost. One thing that hasn't come up this time is that people complaining they snag their hands on the non-cutting tools. I don't remember doing that and I can be quite careless. For those folk, there is always the Lammas 3 way toolpost.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I'll be coming over from Ireland and combining a visit to the show (on Friday) with a trip to see family members in darkest West Country.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Unless they are very special cutters, is it really worth paying £3 - £10 for resharpening when new cutters won't cost much more, if anything, with careful shopping around?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Dougie

This is the best I can do. I sold the lathe a couple of years ago.

From memory, the angle of the V is 70 degrees, but you had better check it!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Here's an auxiliary boring table that I made for my M300. Clamps to the cross slide with wedge blocks as per Harrison's design. Plate was ex 12mm and screw holes are M10.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I also have a copy but postage from Ireland will be quite expensive. If you can wait until July time, I will be in Blighty then if you haven't been satisfied beforehand.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

ega

Send me a private message with your email address and I'll send you all the info. There is too much to put here.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Chuck Fellows (RIP) described a small sensitive drill table and I based mine on his design.

It uses a linear bearing for the vertical slide. The screw holes are spaced to accept a Myford vice and extra counterweights are available to maintain a neutral balance. It mounts on the milling machine table or in the main vice easily. It may not suit Barry's requirements for the high speed but Mike mentioned a very valid point about sensitivity.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 23/04/2022 12:50:15

Edited By steamdave on 23/04/2022 12:51:13

I would second JB's opinion of the Femi bandsaws. Stakesy's was the cheapest place when I was looking and service was also good.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Here's another way to make a rope knurl

http://www.frets.com/HomeShopTech/Projects/RopeKnurl/ropeknurl.html

Dave
The Emerald Isle

At long last, I have machined the .375" concave radius in the parts that I was making.

Thanks to all the suggestions and help offered.

Dave
The Emerald Isle