Member postings for steamdave

GHT used 1/4" BSF threads in his Tee nuts on 3/8" clamping bars. This was on a Tom Senior mill.
If it was good enough for him, it would be good enough for most others, even converting to the metric equivalent!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I had a Thiel Duplex 158 for a number of years. Originally bought it for the dual horizontal and vertical capability without having to change heads.

It was a 1971 machine that came from the Armstrong Whitworth Aircraft Company and had all the original attachments. A fantastic machine that I couldn't even begin to test the functionality of with my limited ability. 17" headroom under vertical head. Huge outreach, but only 16" X travel, but that was never a problem.

Built like the proverbial outhouse, but if you get one without the desirable accessories, kitting them out could be expensive.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Whilst I have nothing against electric vehicles, I think the politicos are jumping on the bandwagon to save us all from death by climate change, or tax us out of existence.

On another news group, I received the following last week. No date given, but from the poster I would think it is up to date.

______________________________________________________
Subject: more CO2 emissions than diesel ones

Electric vehicles in Germany account for more CO2 emissions than diesel
ones, according to a study by German scientists. When CO2 emissions
linked to the production of batteries and the German energy mix - in
which coal still plays an important role - are taken into consideration,
electric vehicles emit 11% to 28% more than their diesel counterparts,
according to the study, presented on Wednesday at the Ifo Institute in
Munich.

Mining and processing the lithium, cobalt and manganese used for
batteries consume a great deal of energy. A Tesla Model 3 battery, for
example, represents between 11 and 15 tonnes of CO2. Given a lifetime of
10 years and an annual travel distance of 15,000 kilometres, this
translates into 73 to 98 grams of CO2 per kilometre, scientists
Christoph Buchal, Hans-Dieter Karl and Hans-Werner Sinn noted in their
study.

The CO2 given off to produce the electricity that powers such vehicles
also needs to be factored in, they say.

When all these factors are considered, each Tesla emits 156 to 180 grams
of CO2 per kilometre, which is more than a comparable diesel vehicle
produced by the German company Mercedes, for example.

The German researchers therefore take issue with the fact that European
officials view electric vehicles as zero-emission ones. They note
further that the EU target of 59 grams of CO2 per km by 2030 corresponds
to a “technically unrealistic” consumption of 2.2 litres of diesel or
2.6 litres of gas per 100 kms.

These new limits pressure German and other European car manufacturers
into switching massively to electric vehicles whereas, the researchers
feel, it would have been preferable to opt for methane engines, “whose
emissions are one-third less than those of diesel motors.”

Oscar Schneider
The Brussels Times

I suppose it all depends on which side of the fence you sit whether you believe the hype or not.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

You could always subscribe to the Yahoo Group for Myford lathes.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/myfordlathes/info

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Also, the ball bearings are top quality.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Probably an old one for the Brits, but here in Ireland the phone rings. I answer it. No one speaks. Hang up phone. The caller is obviously hoping I will call him back and be charged some exorbitant rate for the privilege. Get wife to call the house phone from her mobile thereby ensuring the phone line is not open.

Another recent one is a scam call coming from a local number. (My local land line number is only 5 digits) On answering it, the Indian sounding voice goes into his repertoire. How can they get hold of a local number from (presumably) India? The phone provider does not appear to give a damn because calling their help line nobody answers! The gards and local radio station have been informed.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I wish I could get insurance for my workshop here in Ireland. I've numerous brokers, but nobody will entertain insuring contents of 'outbuildings' on a domestic property for more than 3000eu. I contacted Walter Midgely to see if they had any contacts over here, but drew a blank on that one.

Still wouldn't move away, though!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thanks for the updated suggestions.

I'll see the exact size I need when I get to that stage, but I may well get away with the M3 size. With no detailed photos, who will notice the odd few thou difference!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Apologies for not being clearer with the dimensions.

I'm not worried about loading capability as it will be 'decorative'. Internal diameter of eye will be 1/4". Bar thickness commensurate with diameter to 'look the part'.

David, I tried using a screw eye and fitting a 'washer' to the bottom of the eye to hide the join, but didn't like the result. Your method is one that I originally thought about doing it and will probably end up doing it that way.

Good suggestion, George, but unfortunately they are too large.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I want to make a lifting eye, the diameter of the ring is about 1/4".

I can't think where to get a ring of that sort of size that I could solder to a stem and I don't think I could bend a bar neatly enough to form the ring.

Any suggestions, please?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

If you are desperate to get a set of Quorn castings, you could always import some from the USA.

http://www.martinmodel.com/MMPtools-subfiles/Quorn/tools-quorn.html

Sorry, Can't help with a UK supplier.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

That's it, Andy. Use the Allen key as a lever.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Most came from the local scrap yard before I escaped and I think the original source was HM Dockyard, Devonport. All I need now is the will to use it!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I use 4" drainpipe on end. There are 5 rows of pipe, 1 x 12", 1x 24" 1 x 36" The pipes are glued together with normal plastic glue and are self supporting. They sit on a piece of 1/2" plywood.

The pipes are set a little way from the corner so that large pieces unable to fit in the pipes are able to be propped up in the corner.

Pieces that would get hidden in the short pipes are put in Linbins. The items wrapped in newspaper are steel billets.

Works OK for me.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 06/02/2019 09:43:48

I've had this note about S7 bearing adjustment (I can't remember where I found it) and you may care to read and follow:

Sounds like out of adjustment bearings. The pressure from the live centre is reducing the front bearing clearance to zero. Carry out the following as per Myford (Nottingham) practice:

ADJUSTING HEADSTOCK BEARINGS

This is what Myford Ltd used to do:

1. Power Down

2. Remove all belt tension.

3. Remove Chuck

4. Rotate RH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).

5. Rotate LH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).

Spindle should be completely free of front bush.

6.Loosen Allen screw on collar at end of spindle.

7. Using the Allen key tighten collar as tight at it will go by hand.

Inner tapered roller races are now locked together with correct pre-load.

8. Back off LH collar one complete turn + a bit (top away from you).

9. Rocking the spindle by holding the spindle nose tighten the RH collar by hand (top away from you).

10. When you feel resistance to movement stop.

11. Collar should be just tight enough that spindle can just be moved by hand holding the nose.

12. Do up the LH collar by hand (top towards you). You should still feel resistance when turning the spindle by the nose.

13. With the crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) on the LH collar tap the end smartly with a 12oz hammer.

The spindle should move forwards by a couple of tenths and be completely free running.

14. With the lathe running slowly (lowest direct speed) put the oil gun in the front oil cup and pump until oil issues from the front bearing. (It comes out of the back and is sprayed around by the bull wheel at least it did on mine).

15. All should be sweetness and light with great rejoicing in heaven and on the earth.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

For many years I used a GHT designed 4 way toolpost on my Myford. In fact, I made 2 - one was to be for non ferrous metals and the other for normal steel turning. Then a few years ago, I fell under the spell of the supposed superiority of the QCTP. In my mind, changing over was the worst decision I made regarding tool holding but couldn't go back because I sold them!

The GHT design was far more rigid, it had accurate indexing and with all my tools pre-shimmed to centre height, it took very little time to change tools when required. Another big advantage was when making multiple parts like special screws, just a spin of the turret and the correct tool was presented.

True, it was only practical to hold 3 tools, but that never was a problem. As has been mentioned earlier, a Lammas 3 way tool post would probably be the perfect compromise. The idea of changing turrets never really happened unless I had a large amount of brass/bronze turning to do.

As has also been said, at the end of the day it is what the individual feels happy with using.

Dav
The Emerald Isle

From an Irish perspective and my age profile, solar water heating is not cost effective. Taking into consideration the cost of installation and the savings, it just doesn't work. Perhaps in a large family which includes teenagers it may be different.

In a household of 2, how much pure hot water is used daily? The hot water normally has to be mixed with cold water to be usable, so take showers x 2, a bit of other cleaning usage, say about 80/90 litres. The installation cost of solar means that I can use a lot oil (no gas available in the stix) to heat that 80 litres. Dishwashers and washing machines which are the main appliances using water seem to be all cold fill anyway. (OK, I'm sure you can prove me wrong).

I'm not interested in the possible increase in value of my property because I will be here until carried out in a box (or plastic bag!)

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Shaft diameter is 1/2". The original intention was to drill 29/64, true up with a boring tool and finally ream.

With confirmation that the material is suitable, looks like I will be doing a bit more boring than originally anticipated!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I need to make a pair of bushings for a silver steel crankshaft which will rotate about 4 - 500 rpm.

I've got some bronze - drawn, I believe looking at the spiral marks on it. It's playing hell with the drills, just as bad as phosphor bronze: the hole seeming to close in on the drill and then the inevitable seizure. I could continue by boring, hoping to hit the correct size.

Regardless of technique, if I can machine it successfully will it in fact be good as a bearing material?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Has it jammed because you have wound the cross slide out too far and the lead screw has become disengaged and you can't wind it back in?

If so, you can restore normal operations by trying to wind in the cross slide and at the same time winding the leadscrew handle forwards and backwards maybe half a turn each way. It may well take several attempts, but it will eventually go.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 07/12/2018 16:22:55