Member postings for steamdave

Or for some Real fun with a hammer, try this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTqbdxL_gmU

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

I have some black test lead, got specially for ignition systems so will try soldering a piece to the end of the red supplied plug lead (which is solid copper wire). If it works, I will take the plunge and cut the red lead down reasonably close to the box and re-solder. The join I will cover with some heat shrink tape.

I'm not too concerned with electrical radiation in a small engine. There are many other model engines around that run satisfactorily without complaints about interference.

Thanks for the suggestion of phos. bronze, Roger. I've got some beryllium copper strip that I will try.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I'm building a slow revving single cylinder I.C. engine and intend to use a Chinee ignition unit with potted components. (Sold as a spare part for the Chinee hit n miss engines).

The spark plug lead is red and I want black. Is there any electrical reason why I cannot solder a black lead onto the (shortened) red lead? I did think about covering the red lead in black heat shrink sleeving, but that would make it very bulky.
I'd rather not receive suggestions to alternative ignition systems as I already have the mentioned item.

While in questioning mode, how do you make the spark plug clip - the type that slides on the groove at the end of the plug? I've tried drilling a piece of brass and slitting it, but that soon loses its spring. Spark plug size is 1/4" x 32 if that makes a difference. The modern type that are usually covered in a boot is not what I'm wanting.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

The pauper's surface plate:

Make a framed piece of plywood with a baize top and put on a piece of plate glass. For my 'every day' usage, I use the platen from a retired scanner. Good enough for the girls I go out with!

I also have a second one that I use with wet/dry for smoothing my Many surface irregularities.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

If you need a larger vice and not too heavy,consider the Darmet Precision vice.

https://darmet.com.pl/en/vises/1652-precision-machine-vise-fpzb

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I've occasionally chalked files, particularly when working with aluminium. The stated wisdom is that it is supposed to reduce clogging of the file teeth.

Coarse files don't clog as easily compared to the finer files, particularly on ali. castings.

I haven't found it particularly effective to prevent clogging, but it does seem to ease cleaning the file (with a piece of flattened copper pipe) afterwards.

Does anyone have any experience with chalked files and whether they can keep the file clean while using it?

This question has come up because I'm working on aluminium castings at the moment.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

You can read about a recreation of the Quadricycle over on HMEM.

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/ford-quadricycle.19283/

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Very nice fan you have there, Chris.

I think that the hex. bar is just a plug. Take it out and you would find a hole connecting the power cylinder to the displacer. Unless you are desperate to find out if I'm correct (or not), I would leave it in place, especially now you seem to have it running well.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

You could always look for Tubal Cain's book on building the S9.

Building the Stuart No.9 Engine That's the book, but wouldn't recommend paying that asking price!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I have a length of 3mm pitch roller chain and need two sprockets of 10 or possibly 12 teeth.

HPC gears list 4mm pitch as their smallest and a search on the internet doesn't reveal any other manufacturer of such a small chain or sprockets.

So over to the brains trust: any ideas on where to get the required sprockets?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

The two brackets with set screws in + the angle piece bottom left look like parts from ETW's powered hacksaw machine.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

One way is to use a jig for drilling the ports.

For one such jig, have a look at Elmer's Fancy 2 oscillator (wobbler). The drawings can be downloaded from
http://www.john-tom.com/html/ElmersEngines.html
Download no.18 and the jig is shown in the drawings.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Two sheets? I thought the norm was three: 1 up, 1 down, 1 polish.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thanks for the suggestions.

I did wonder about using the paper stuck to wood idea, but I will spend the kids inheritance and get a 50 tooth change gear. (The kids don't want the lathe).  I like the idea of the forked detent.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 10/02/2020 21:34:53

I want to replace the handwheels on my Myford S7 with the GHT design. What is a suitable way to make the 100 divisions on a gear box equipped S7? I don't have a dividing head that fits on the lathe.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I found that my S7 was too low for me to work comfortably. I used 2 pieces of 3" x 2" x !8" hardwood laid front to back and screwed the stand to them.
Killed two birds with one stone: Raised the height sufficiently and the lathe (unbolted to the floor) is perfectly stable.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Welcome, Dave and hello from West Cork.

You might consider joining the Myford Owners .io group to get helpful advice with your machine.
https://groups.io/g/myfordlathes

Dave
The Emerald Isle

My usual milling machine vice for quite a while has been the very good Warco DH1. About 18 months ago, I bought a Polish Darmet vice that was advertised on eBay. For the larger jobs, I find it excellent.
Just had a look and the 100mm size (which is what I got) is not listed. On their own website it is listed, but the price has gone up considerably.
https://toolsmach.com/en/precision-machine-vises/11-precision-machine-vise-100mm-fpzb-100100.html?SubmitCurrency=1&id_currency=4

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Have a look at my Myford Lathe album where I have uploaded a drawing for an oil gun adapter that fits the Myford nipples very well - leak free!

It's not my design, by the way. My thanks to the original designer.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I've now read through Mogen Kilde's construction series on his Scroll Saw and I might make one. However, I cannot see fig. 5 nor pictures 22 to 28.

Am I blind, or are there really gaps in the description? I could quite easily work out the eccentric throw, but there maybe others who would need the dimensions.

There must be others who are contemplating constructing this tool, but strangely no-one else has remarked on the missing fig 5.

Dave
The Emerald Isle