Member postings for steamdave

Thanks for the updated suggestions.

I'll see the exact size I need when I get to that stage, but I may well get away with the M3 size. With no detailed photos, who will notice the odd few thou difference!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Apologies for not being clearer with the dimensions.

I'm not worried about loading capability as it will be 'decorative'. Internal diameter of eye will be 1/4". Bar thickness commensurate with diameter to 'look the part'.

David, I tried using a screw eye and fitting a 'washer' to the bottom of the eye to hide the join, but didn't like the result. Your method is one that I originally thought about doing it and will probably end up doing it that way.

Good suggestion, George, but unfortunately they are too large.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I want to make a lifting eye, the diameter of the ring is about 1/4".

I can't think where to get a ring of that sort of size that I could solder to a stem and I don't think I could bend a bar neatly enough to form the ring.

Any suggestions, please?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

If you are desperate to get a set of Quorn castings, you could always import some from the USA.

http://www.martinmodel.com/MMPtools-subfiles/Quorn/tools-quorn.html

Sorry, Can't help with a UK supplier.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

That's it, Andy. Use the Allen key as a lever.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Most came from the local scrap yard before I escaped and I think the original source was HM Dockyard, Devonport. All I need now is the will to use it!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I use 4" drainpipe on end. There are 5 rows of pipe, 1 x 12", 1x 24" 1 x 36" The pipes are glued together with normal plastic glue and are self supporting. They sit on a piece of 1/2" plywood.

The pipes are set a little way from the corner so that large pieces unable to fit in the pipes are able to be propped up in the corner.

Pieces that would get hidden in the short pipes are put in Linbins. The items wrapped in newspaper are steel billets.

Works OK for me.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 06/02/2019 09:43:48

I've had this note about S7 bearing adjustment (I can't remember where I found it) and you may care to read and follow:

Sounds like out of adjustment bearings. The pressure from the live centre is reducing the front bearing clearance to zero. Carry out the following as per Myford (Nottingham) practice:

ADJUSTING HEADSTOCK BEARINGS

This is what Myford Ltd used to do:

1. Power Down

2. Remove all belt tension.

3. Remove Chuck

4. Rotate RH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).

5. Rotate LH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).

Spindle should be completely free of front bush.

6.Loosen Allen screw on collar at end of spindle.

7. Using the Allen key tighten collar as tight at it will go by hand.

Inner tapered roller races are now locked together with correct pre-load.

8. Back off LH collar one complete turn + a bit (top away from you).

9. Rocking the spindle by holding the spindle nose tighten the RH collar by hand (top away from you).

10. When you feel resistance to movement stop.

11. Collar should be just tight enough that spindle can just be moved by hand holding the nose.

12. Do up the LH collar by hand (top towards you). You should still feel resistance when turning the spindle by the nose.

13. With the crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) on the LH collar tap the end smartly with a 12oz hammer.

The spindle should move forwards by a couple of tenths and be completely free running.

14. With the lathe running slowly (lowest direct speed) put the oil gun in the front oil cup and pump until oil issues from the front bearing. (It comes out of the back and is sprayed around by the bull wheel at least it did on mine).

15. All should be sweetness and light with great rejoicing in heaven and on the earth.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

For many years I used a GHT designed 4 way toolpost on my Myford. In fact, I made 2 - one was to be for non ferrous metals and the other for normal steel turning. Then a few years ago, I fell under the spell of the supposed superiority of the QCTP. In my mind, changing over was the worst decision I made regarding tool holding but couldn't go back because I sold them!

The GHT design was far more rigid, it had accurate indexing and with all my tools pre-shimmed to centre height, it took very little time to change tools when required. Another big advantage was when making multiple parts like special screws, just a spin of the turret and the correct tool was presented.

True, it was only practical to hold 3 tools, but that never was a problem. As has been mentioned earlier, a Lammas 3 way tool post would probably be the perfect compromise. The idea of changing turrets never really happened unless I had a large amount of brass/bronze turning to do.

As has also been said, at the end of the day it is what the individual feels happy with using.

Dav
The Emerald Isle

From an Irish perspective and my age profile, solar water heating is not cost effective. Taking into consideration the cost of installation and the savings, it just doesn't work. Perhaps in a large family which includes teenagers it may be different.

In a household of 2, how much pure hot water is used daily? The hot water normally has to be mixed with cold water to be usable, so take showers x 2, a bit of other cleaning usage, say about 80/90 litres. The installation cost of solar means that I can use a lot oil (no gas available in the stix) to heat that 80 litres. Dishwashers and washing machines which are the main appliances using water seem to be all cold fill anyway. (OK, I'm sure you can prove me wrong).

I'm not interested in the possible increase in value of my property because I will be here until carried out in a box (or plastic bag!)

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Shaft diameter is 1/2". The original intention was to drill 29/64, true up with a boring tool and finally ream.

With confirmation that the material is suitable, looks like I will be doing a bit more boring than originally anticipated!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I need to make a pair of bushings for a silver steel crankshaft which will rotate about 4 - 500 rpm.

I've got some bronze - drawn, I believe looking at the spiral marks on it. It's playing hell with the drills, just as bad as phosphor bronze: the hole seeming to close in on the drill and then the inevitable seizure. I could continue by boring, hoping to hit the correct size.

Regardless of technique, if I can machine it successfully will it in fact be good as a bearing material?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Has it jammed because you have wound the cross slide out too far and the lead screw has become disengaged and you can't wind it back in?

If so, you can restore normal operations by trying to wind in the cross slide and at the same time winding the leadscrew handle forwards and backwards maybe half a turn each way. It may well take several attempts, but it will eventually go.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 07/12/2018 16:22:55

I started off with a Myford S7 and later bought a Harrison M300. S7 is imperial, M300 is metric.

For sure, the M300 is a far more capable turning machine, but I don't like it!

My main dislike on the M300 is the low position of the controls - I seem to be stooping to use the cross slide handwheel. Also being an imperial dinosaur, I struggle with the metric dimensions when moving between the two machines. I don't like the direct reading of the M300 cross slide dial and that doesn't help me.

I have recently sold the M300 and am much more confident in my turning now using the trusty S7.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Harold Hall described collets for square material that would fit inside a standard ER (or probably any other) collet.
I had several Burnerd multisize square collets and I never ever used them!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Seems like it's not too bad living in deepest, darkest West Cork. Skibbereen and Clonakilty are thriving little towns.

Plenty of independent small shops, free parking (2 hour limit) and a very good local market on the weekends. Lidl and Aldi have made an appearance but they do not seem to have taken away too much trade from the smaller independent shops. No Tesco, M & S or other multiples.

Only thing lacking is a decent tool shop!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Here's a 1921 Pop. Mechanics method of clearing a drain. Sounds quite exciting!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thanks, Rod. Please send me a PM or email.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

The wife of Sussex Steam owner is very seriously ill and the business is moribund at the moment. MiniSteam maybe taking up some of their designs in the future.

Rod. I would be interested in your beam engine kit if Fabiano doesn't want it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Exactly.

The only possible 'excuse' for English shows and the number of club stands stewarded by club volunteers (well done those people, by the way) and static displays is that 'over there' the exhibitors generally are individuals because Model Engineering clubs as they are in England are very few and far between. Some of the exhibitors to the major shows will travel for several days to get there and back home again afterwards.

One income generating item in Cabin Fever and NAMES are the auctions and commission sales. The last CF that I attended had a lot of non ME but engineering orientated content for auction: There were a lot of antique engineering tools and scientific instruments, including a lot of Tesla items as well as a large number of models. The auction was conducted on the first day and took up most of that day. Items for commission sale were displayed throughout the exhibition with a wanted price label on them. When bought, they were generally removed at the time of sale.

Dave
The Emerald Isle