Member postings for steamdave

I had never heard of a Ludwig Hunger valve seat cutter before, so did a quick search and I found out the company is still in business.

https://www.ludwig-hunger.de/index.php/eng/Products/Automotive/Counterboring-valve-seat-ring-bores

Maybe worth contacting them.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I'm not going down any sort of casting process. I've got enough processes to cope with at the moment. But thanks for your idea Tim.

Tug. I've decided on the silver soldered approach and will consider the surface finish when I've achieved a suitable shape. Probably several weeks down the line at the speed I work at.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Peter. I don't have a 3D printer, nor do I know anyone with one, so that idea is out.

I think I will go with my original idea and carve from the solid, cut off a slice and silver solder a flat plate where the slice was removed. The bead will be incorporated in the turning of the outside and I'll pre-solder a bead on the flat plate before securing it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I've just registered with T.T., Andrew, in order to search for the topic.

Noel. The original may well have been cast, but at the scale I'm using the use of something like coarse Scotchbrite to take away the shine will probably not look too different. Besides, I have no casting facilities or experience nor is there anyone locally with such knowledge. I suppose I did ask for other ideas!

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I need to make a tundish for my present project. Basically it is a truncated cone, but it has a flat side to it.

The top is about 1-5/16" diameter and the hex at the bottom is 5/16".

I thought about initially turning the round shape from a piece of brass bar and then slicing off a section and soldering on a piece of flat plate to give the required shape. It would be quite wasteful of the brass bar, but I do have a suitable piece that has been waiting to be used.

Another thought was to roll the tube from brass sheet after soldering on the top lip then solder in the bottom. Finally slice off a part and solder on the flat. My main worry with this method is trying to roll the tube with the bead pre-soldered on. If I leave the bead off, I doubt my silver soldering skills are good enough to roll the bead afterwards and silver solder it on before cutting out a section for the flat part.

Any other ideas would be welcome.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

It is interesting to learn that 'super glue' is flexible and lasting enough for a drive belt. If asked, I would have thought that Evostik type glue would have been the choice for this type of job.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I bag mine up in industrial plastic bags then when I've got sufficient waste of all kinds, I take a trip to the recycling centre. If I'm getting short of bags (very rarely), I'll empty them and fill them up a 2nd or even 3rd time. 4 EU. for a car load of waste every few months won't break the bank.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I might just do that.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Very nice looking engine there, John.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I believe the main reason for the lining is not so much to retain any heat, but to prevent the paint coating getting damaged by the heat. With the (hopefully) small flame, there should not be as much heat as from my gas torch and maybe the Kaowool in greater thickness will be adequate for the second engine (steel firebox, about 3" diameter).

John P. What did you use for the lining in your firebox? Engine is the Improved Rider, 2" bore from Myers.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Q1.
I need to line the cast aluminium firebox of a hot air engine. I have some welder's ceramic blanket. What is the best way to secure this inside the 'box? The 20th cent. building notes suggest using furnace cement, but I was wondering whether there was a different suggestion for the 21st cent. Would beads of JB Weld around the top/bottom and joints be up to the task?

Q2.
For the next project. Another hot air engine. Again, firebox lining, this time it is a steel tube. I was going to use Kaowool, but giving my 2mm sheet a quick blast with my propane torch, the Kaowool curled up and died. The engine will be gas fuelled, so is there any other material I could use? And how to secure it?

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I was going to suggest the Warco DH1 vice
https://www.warco.co.uk/machine-vices-vice-jaws/303151-dh-1-precision-vice.html?search_query=vice&results=65
but I've just noticed the price!

I've had one for a number of years and have always found it does the job for me. Should any job be too small for it, the easiest way round about would be to make up an 'infinite length' vice. I tried to find a good pic, of one, but my quick search came up empty.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

I'm going to go for the bronze bushings, and like the idea of the sintered bronze idea (Oilite?) One advantage is that they have a smaller overall dimension than needle rollers or ball bearings and this helps getting closer to scale full size dimensions and shape with the bearing housings.

(J.B. it's the Improved Rider engine.)

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thanks for the suggestions, gents.

Because the engine will be slow revving, developing little power (hot air engine) I will modify the design and use gunmetal bushings. Lot less chance of um...mishap.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Is it necessary to run needle roller bearings on hardened steel shafts?

I'm making a slow running engine (up to 200 rpm sort of speed) and the drawings show roller bearings on crankshaft and con rod ends. The two cranks are overhung on each end of the crankshaft. Diameter of shaft is 1/2" for main bearings reducing to 5/16" for the crank arm location.

I don't want to use hardened steel if I don't have to because of probable distortion when cooling, even if plunged end on.

If I can run on unhardened silver steel, I was considering eBay UK 222987986234 for the job.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Here's mine. Simple and effective.

I use it in combination with my indexable lathe stop, usually with longer jobs and the indexing rods can't reach the normal fixed stop.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 20/07/2021 10:43:47

I've used Peter Wood a couple of times and can thoroughly recommend his work. He's very easy to deal with and costs are reasonable and not too long to wait.

http://menp.co.uk/

The pic is of his pre-order drawings of the required plates. The originals are 2nd row, left side, 3rd row right side. Finished plates are about 1-1/8" x 7/8".

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Thanks gents for your help. All sorted now.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Is it possible to organise Excel into ascending or descending order across all columns?

I particularly would like to reorganise the Model Engineer index Excel spreadsheet to show contributors in alphabetical order with their contributions. This would make it easier to search for particular articles.

I can sort and filter Authors in alphabetical order but the remaining columns are not sorted using the Sort & Filter button.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Very nice car you have there.

I used to fancy a Porsche 928, but even before my geriatric state, I found it difficult to get in and out of. Also very tight in the cockpit, especially with the sunroof.

I believe your (original) engine was designed as one bank of the v-8, but stand to be corrected.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

Edited By steamdave on 10/05/2021 16:19:07