Here is a list of all the postings Simon0362 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Identification help|
Thanks to your general identification, it appears that they are handmade (in copper) on Indonesia for stamping batik fabrics.
Made from the early part of the 20th century apparently - Wiki knows all in this link
Wow, I am constantly amazed by the depth and breadth of knowledge on this site.
Thank you all for your analysis, I can now look for a home for them.
Bazyle, nothing obvious to my completely untutored eye.
Following a recent house move I have started to sort through the junk with a view to ditching some of those 'might be useful one day' pieces, especially where they have not proven to be useful in the previous 30 or so years.
However when I came to these things, I am completely stumped as to their use let alone whether I could ever use them. I think we acquired them as a result of a house move where the removers took everything not physically attached to the structure.
They are about 6" in the longest dimension with a clear handle on top. I suspect from the complex pattern that they are more ink related than heat branding - but I cannot either detect any old material or make anything rub off from the stamping face.
I would be quite happy to move them onto a home where they will be used if anyone can shed any light on where that home might be! Any and all suggestions are welcomed....
|Thread: USB breakout board alternatives|
1). Open to other suggestions such as Ethernet - but I am trying to get away from printer boards which are ever more difficult to locate and built to ever lower quality levels. One of the chief issues I have with the PoKeys is that there is obviously some disconnect between the board and the PC since starting it seems to be vaguely random but associated with moving the joystick and also there is s serious lag between inputs to the board and activity at the pc - or rather ibn-activity since movement continues long after stopping the input.
Whether this is Mach3 or Pokeys or a combination of the two - I don't care, but it is seriously not right to a dangeroyus degree...
2). Yes, I was aware they work with LinuxCNC but I have a paid up Mach3 licence and extra coding and effort focused on Mach3 as well as having my mill completely driven by Mach3. I was hoping someone could report on their use with Mach 3.....
3). Thanks - I may have to go down this route.
4); Good luck - I still have my Unimat3 which I was given when I was 18, although it constantly trips the ECB now and needs 'investigation'
I currently operate my Emco 5PC CNC lathe through a parallel port with the 'standard' conversion to allow Mach 3 to drive the Emco electronics.
Since I need several more inputs and outputs, I decided to go 'USB' and bought a PoKeys board allowing USB control of the lathe - however I am deeply unhappy with it and the general level of compatibility along with several safety related issues and I am now looking around for alternatives.
Ideally I would like to move the 2-axis drive step/direction onto USB but more importantly, I need a number of inputs/outputs that can be controlled/read by Mach 3 as well as the standard I/O such as Index and limit switches.
I have seen some correspondence on the 5i25 from Mesa but I am open to hearing what anyone else can suggest - ideally with a reliable Mach3 setup..
|Thread: Anybody ever seen a level like this one?|
Better photo of the name:
Martin, PM sent.
Michael, some interesting information you found, especially the patent which looks similar to the guts of mine and gives a rough starting date.
I understood the BTE S.G.D.G to mean that a patent was recognised (by the official French system) but had not gone through a process - like Patent Pending. Moreover, the patent had not been examined for either accuracy, nor for clashes with other existing ones. **LINK** for a deeper explanation. As for the France et Etranger, I think that merely describes the territory of the patent - like old UK ones that referred to GB and Empire.
I still suspect the Plomb with its vaguely masonic symbol may be the key.
For the scale - I read it as showing say 5cm in 1M or 5cm in 100 = thus the angle is tan-1 of 5/100 = 2.8° which corresponds to the roughly 3° mark on the scale - or am I missing something?
I would be surprised if it was for anything dirty or outdoor since it is both clean and shows no signs of having had an outdoor life at any time. I rather prefer Jason's idea of boatbuilding or similar in wood rather than anything more aggressive.
Also the accuracy is limited to say the least and would only give +/- a degree I suspect - if nothing else the scale unit is a good but not imovable fit in the brass bound wooden frame.
The link is good to show that others out there have them....but the use and origins are still unclear to me - nor even the approximate date which I suspect to be the 30s due to the celluloid and the general style of the scale.
More thoughts and ideas welcome
Thanks Michael, it looked a good deal and the man at the car boot sale eventually halved the price due to the damage. Couldn't find anything on ebay.fr apart from a centre section that sold for 60€, nothing current anyway.
I recently bought the level shown in the photo at a French car boot sale.
On returning home and looking at it carefully it uses a weight/lever method to provide horizontal and vertical angle measurement and is marked in both centimetres per metre and in degrees.
The measurement block can be removed from the brass bound wooden frame with the two sliding catches. The windows of which only one is complete appear to be celluloid (but I am open to correction).
The limited amount of information shows “Niveau PECQUEUR and also “PLOMB” with what I think is a masonic style ‘A’ with the crossbar broken into a dipping ‘v’ form.
There is no other information on the level and I have failed to find anything of interest on any French or English web sites.
If anyone can provide me with some more information, I would be very grateful – or maybe suggest a more suitable place to post my query!
|Thread: TIG welding|
Murray, Which gas did you use with the TiG brazing?
|Thread: Band saw running off true|
My own experience when this happens - it is time to replace the blade which has probably become blunt.
|Thread: 3D printing seems to have gone quiet. Where are we all at?|
I tripped into the 'need one' category a few weeks abck and scooped up an almost unused 'UP!' from fleabay for a fraction of the list price - I looked for a second hand commercial unit rather than an assembled kit of bits to give me some confidence that what I bought might work more or less out of the box.
I have been really pleased with the results and so far I have made a box for my PoKeys CNC interface (a fast printt to confirm it actually worked and a more solid version that is printing alongside me now), a QC toolholder incorporating a boss for a DTI ( no critical strength issues), 4 T nuts (medium strength task, we will see how they last) along with several SWMBO related items to demonstrate the usefulness of it......including a St Patricks day 4 leaf clover in bright green!
In some ways, I would advise against getting one.....the attraction of '..just printing a...' is rather too beguiling - but I guess the phase will eventually end.
I have also been using OnShape (as per another thread) for drawing everything up - it goes without saying that you need 'some' competence in 3D drawing to make any use of the printer...
|Thread: Onshape CAD|
I received an email from OnShape asking how I was getting on with it. I responded commenting on my lack of success with Opera as well as a comment on what I consider to be missing functionality and received the following in a personal email from them:
If you like, you can submit enhancement requests for any feature you want to see in Onshape. We release updates to Onshape every 2-3 weeks and we take enhancement requests into consideration when adding new features. The feedback button is a great way for you to help us prioritize new features and get notified once we add them to Onshape. We will certainly have copy "n" points in the future, but submitting an enhancement request puts it higher on our priority list.
Regarding the loading issue, I'd also use the feedback button and submit a ticket. User support will then help you resolve.
Maybe those having difficulties should try this?
I think its more than just the graphics performance - I have a separate nVidia graphics card on my machine running Win7 pro and Firefox works happily on it. Opera however loads and operates up to the point that I try and open something and it just sits 'loading'. I tried their instructions regarding WebGL and also ensured that the nVidia settings were correct too.
This morning I had to update Adobe Flash because there was a warning screen that the version of Flash was at risk and I was unable to proceed until the update was installed.
When I do get it running, I am extremely impressed by it - I made a box, rounded edges, bosses for circuit board mountings, hole for DB25 connector, hoe for Ethernet socket and an access hole for a USB in about 6 hours from first accessing the package.
The 3D printed version is sitting alongside me resplendent in a yucky shade of pale blue.
I successfully applied for and received my invitation about 12 hours later.
However it looks like it is very sensitive to browsers and other packages so would try your application using Firefox (which I can confirm works fully or with Opera (which works for the application form but not the application itself it seems). I am not an IE fan so I only use it when there is no option but I suspect this is your problem.
You will only be able to use Chrome (which I didn't test), Firefox (which works perfectly for me) Opera alegedly (but which I could make work) and I think something else but not IE.
All in all, deeply impressed with my initial playing, I have a reasonable amount of 2D experience and virtually no 3D but this had me drawing the beginner's tutorial object in less than an hour and I now have a long list of boxes and 'thingys' to do as source for a newly acquired 3D printer.
|Thread: 3D printing seems to have gone quiet. Where are we all at?|
Can you share the printer make that you own?
|Thread: Forgotten engineering techniques|
I remove ball races in blind holes (think gearbox pilot bearings in flywheels) by inserting a suitably sized Rawlbolt, tightening to 'enough' torque and then attaching a slide hammer to the exposed bolt end.
Works every time and better than the grease method, especially when the ball race has eaten its own shields and lacks a hydraulic seal.
The last time I was in Sydney I was taken to the old shipyards on Cockatoo Island in Sydney bay - at the time it was possible to wander around the remains of the machine shop with huge machinery - not so much 'I could put my whole lathe on this faceplate', more a case of 'I could put my entire workshop on this faceplate'...
I took dozens of photos all ruined by a data card fault which gave the modern equivilent of the broken sprocket holes in film syndrome - all the shots were placed at the same memory card address.
However a quick google reveals other people's photos:
All in a bit of an untidy state when I visited 4 years or so back, but well worth a visit - if only to be overawed by the shear size of everything.
|Thread: Perfecto power shaper pulley wheel size|
thank you for your universally helpful responses.
Your thoughts on the speed are 'noted' but probably for future attention.
Phil, yes it appears to be the original 8" or so pulley so I know what to make or hunt down. I managed to find an A series pulley just a little larger at 2.25" which I will try as a starter - I think it came courtesy of one of the meaty alternators I had awaiting a use in life. Stand is now almost complete and next task is bushing the pulley as well as locating a suitable a suitable sized donor for pulley #2 - no 10:1 reduction boxes lying around unfortunately
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