Here is a list of all the postings Simon0362 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Reference bar ?|
A couple of words of warning - depending on your source of bar, test the test bar first. I purchased one from an Indian source and discovered some curious readings.
Once I set the bar between the end centres it became obvious that:
further checking revealed that it is a MT2.25 taper - or something like that - it is too fat at the large end so doesn't even fit tightly into the headstock...
Mr eBay was kind enough to refund my money with no quibbling once it was established that the seller was no longer a member of eBay.
I have purchased a replacement (also from India) and it has tested out successfully.
If anyone can suggest a use for a ground bar, roughly circular and to that well known size of (roughly 18.35mm), attached to a (roughly) MT2 taper, I would be pleased to hear them...
BTW, please don't assault me with "should have bought from X and not India, China, etc", I bought it with my eyes fully open and am not complaining
|Thread: Car problems|
Had a very similar experience with a car with an overdrive - the shock of the O/D engaging ripped the spline section from the clutch plate material. No noise apart from a slight tinkling but no drive either. Box out, replace clutch - not sure if they do that to modern cars though!
|Thread: Making a small plastic fan|
John, sent you a PM
Having both CNC and 3D printing equipment, I would do these in 3D. From your description and some rough guesses, I drew the attached in about 20 mins, stl file comes out from the drawings (in Onshape, stored in public under "small plastic fan" if anyone wants to play further with them). Dimensions taken from your text plus some guesswork to be roughly right.
Get them printed at a 3D printshop from the web in 'whatever' - probably ABS or nylon would be best.
Definition is down to 0.1mm so detail should not be an issue.
|Thread: Something special coming in issue 253 of MEW|
Richard, sent you a PM.
|Thread: Alternative to PC based Cnc controllers|
Murry, PM sent to you
|Thread: I 'Want' a bigger lathe. :)|
Maybe this one would be suitable for you - Dean, Smith and Grace, one careful owner (and a number of very careless ones). I am sure that the working surfaces are pristine under the coating of what looks like emulsion paint.....
(more photos in my album, sorry one is upside down but I can't see a way to invert it using the site software)
Spotted last year in a place that recycles building materials, so somewhat out of place in the sets of railing, shutters and second hand windows. Located on the outskirts of Aix en Provence - goodness knows what n°191 was doing here in the first place, but I suspect I can see its eventual destination.
Edited By Simon0362 on 20/03/2017 13:20:36
|Thread: Machinery's Handbook|
I have a copy of the American Machinists' Handbook by Colwin and Stanley, 2nd edition dated 1914 that I picked up for 10€ in a Paris 2nd hand bookshop - I confess that I have only skimmed through it and usually dive to Google for any data since the time taken to hunt the information down far exceeds today's search engines.
That being said, my quick flick through revealed an interesting way to measure 3 flute tools using a 60° V block, so maybe I will add it to the bedside table reading pile. Surprised also by the support for metric measurements and information being given equal status with the imperial versions.
|Thread: Remotely adjustable water nozzle|
Before I head off into deep design, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of either an off the shelf product or a published design for an adjustable nozzle for spraying water based liquids.
I am looking for something in the same style as the slightly old-fashioned hand held garden hose spray - where it is possible to go from a fine mist spray through to a straight jet of water by a simple twist of the nozzle body.
It actually needs to be rather smaller than a hose size - more the scale from a small pump up garden spray.
Operating pressure is likely to be in the 6-10 Bar range, although probably nearer the lower end of this range.
The key point is that it needs to be remotely controlled by a servo-like arrangement - so, as an example, turning a pot causes the output to go from spray through to jet - or stop somewhere mid point.
The rest of the technology either exists or will be designed/bought to match this part.
If necessary, I will rig up something from a combination of R/C servos and bits of garden watering systems, etc but it would be useful if somebody has already invented the wheel!
All thoughts gratefully received.....
|Thread: Gearotic Query|
Thanks John, I will try again when I have a mo.
|Thread: 1.5mm milling cutters|
I agree - I have switched back to HSS in the 3mm size - and these guys do 50 for GBP20 **LINK**
So far, 2 blunted, none broken, running them at 10,500 rpm in Al
|Thread: Gearotic Query|
+1, I always assumed it was just me!
|Thread: Fireproof Overalls|
I did have the opportunity whilst doing some work at a German steelworks, working with the very appropriately named Herr Stahlschmidt. This was a highly unofficial tour at about 3 am while we waited for a 300Mb disk drive to format (that rather dates it!). I was taken over the gantries above the streams of white hot steel pouring down from the furnace and we then zigged and zagged across more gantries watching as it cooled and I think started to be formed. We also wandered into the main area just as one of the crucibles was up ended, presumably to empty the clag out of it roughly 5 tons of stuff hit the floor and reverberated through the enormous building. My lasting impression was the colossal scale of everything.
I was almost certainly dressed in my standard jeans, trainers and a cotton sweatshirt or ex army green woolly pully, so perfectly in line with H&S..... I still have the photos that I took somewhat surreptitiously with my then super new SLR
On the original subject, I had a source of plastic coated paper overalls from a friend who did composites at BA - wonderful working coveralls especially while stripping gearboxes or other very oily items -until the very cold evening when I was standing right next to the space heater and felt a tightening around my lower parts and discovered that I was being slowly shrink-wrapped....
Edited By Simon0362 on 05/02/2017 11:32:21
|Thread: Ebayer refused to sell to me - on their avoid list|
Made my afternoon.......
|Thread: workshop removal abroad|
Agree about Tartaix, especially clock brass and also Blockenstock - very useful for offcuts
Edited By Simon0362 on 05/12/2016 19:48:36
|Thread: A Fabricated Small DIY Tool & Cutter Grinder - Joe in Swakopmund|
Really impressed with this as well as your other use of brushless motors - I did something similar as a high speed spindle but I used an inrunner and added a water cooling jacket - which was not ideal (It was written up in a ME a couple of years ago)
Regarding the airflow - or lack of it - are you having an issue with the proximity of the outrunner body and the casing leading to a boundary layer being permanently attached to the motor?
I might be tempted to try a) a larger diameter cover and b) a 'scraper blade almost touching the rotating body and directly in front of a slot which forms the exit path. A corresponding slot or set of tiny holes greater in cross section than the slot to allow air to enter
this quick sketch might make my point clearer (the red is the motor assuming it is turning clockwise, the blue is the casing):
|Thread: Measuring PCD holes|
I see the trade refers to them as "centreless wheel balancing adaptor" - like this:
This came from the 1st search result: https://www.garageequipmentonline.com/products/tyre-changer-and-balancer-options/centreless-wheel-adaptor
Hope that is clearer.
Ah, not so......I have had exactly this problem which took me some time to understand - balancing tyres at the tyre centre produced a clearly out of balance wheel.
Eventually I took the car to a performance focused place and they took one look and got out a 5 way 'sliding spider' affair that they installed in place of the cones. This looks like 5 studs on some form of geared backplate that expand in unison, maintaining their centre distance. Add wheel and then screw up 5 nuts and balance.
Cause of lots of grumbling at the tyre place since it is a non trivial exercise but perfect result.
Wheels are of GKN origin and were originally shod with Avon tyres way back in 1973.
|Thread: workshop removal abroad|
There are a couple of sites in France where you can order offcuts directly and get them 'posted' to you. I have bought lumps of steel and aluminium and had them delivered (along with some interesting comments from the delivery guy) - one 15kg lump of steel was 'wrapped' in 2 layers of bubble wrap so I pity the remaining parcels in that delivery!
Stock steel and al are also available delivered and at reasonable prices IMO - I bought a 2m length of 20mm silver steel for about 45€. Terminology is the usual problem - silver steel is for instance sold either as 'Stub', or 'Stubs' or as '100C6'.
Not sure where you are heading but there is a small steam focused club in this region (Aix en Provence). Feel free to PM me with any questions.
|Thread: C0 self centraling 3 jaw chuck.|
My mantra from the first days of my Unimat (similar reversing jaws scroll chuck) was remove 3 jaws, move scroll back to just before space 1 on the chuck then "3 into 1", move scroll to space n°2, "2 into 2", move scroll to space n°3, "1 into 3".
To return to inside jaws, move scroll back to just before space 1 on the chuck then "1 into 1", move scroll to space n°2, "2 into 2", move scroll to space n°3, "3 into 3".
Cleanliness is definitely next to godliness (well, concentricity), clean out the teeth on the jaws frequently and also the scroll itself - old toothbrush works well.
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