Here is a list of all the postings ChrisH has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Skynet is Coming|
Our machine is also of Turkish origin - a Beko, despite vowing never to buy a Beko as they had a record of bursting into flames at one time.
Manual written in English one can understand, but to try and find one particular piece of information - say what all the pretty little icons on the display panel all mean for example - is very laborious to say the least.
There are three levels of dryness available we have discovered, extra dry, cupboard dry and iron dry. What each level of dryness precisely means I am not sure, but seeing as how we stopped ironing anything as soon as we retired 14 years ago the iron dry level is never going to be used.
You can also set the dryer to run for a certain period of time, it would seem from playing with the settings, but I've not read that in the manual. Mind you, it's a plus point that 1. we have a manual and 2. we can nearly understand it.
It's a seemingly clever little machine with lots of features buried in the manual and not clearly and readily visible, therefore you don't really know what you are doing until you have thoroughly mastered the manual, why do manufacturers have to make things so difficult, instead of applying a little thought to the process and marking the dials to clearly identify the process. For example, one wash programme is called Down Wear. What does that do? Well according to that manual we figured it mean we could wash clothing that contains feathers, but doesn't say what temperature it runs at. Another programme says Hand Wash. This is for washing woollen clothes apparently, but again doesn't say at what temperature. Why not say Wollens? To be fair the machine does select a temperature and you can alter it down if required. I think!
|Thread: Stuart victoria|
The text is probably missing a word like 'top', as in top dead centre (or even bottom dead centre).
|Thread: Skynet is Coming|
3 days ago our washer dryer died - we don't have room for both machines seperate. Screen dead. In the middle of a wash. Died for no apparent reason. But it's electic, has wires coming out of it so not to be totally trusted. No power getting past whatever is the first bit it comes to in the machine. All looked good inside the machine, no dangling disconnected leads or dodgy smelling bits. Chance of trouble shooting that is as remore as a new car under bonnet problem.
It was an Ikea machine, so probably made by Whirlpool or Electrolux, bought partly because Ikea stuff comes with 5 year guarentees, this one had lasted over 10 so had probably done well by modern standards. Up to it failed it had been working perfectly, and all seemed super inside, probably what failed was some little electronic bit that costs about tuppence/ten thousand.
So new machine ordered next day, and day after it arrived. All installed and working so back in the dhobi business again, but this machine was supplied with a manual, so much stuff these days isn't. Mind you, the text is small, tricky to read and it takes for ever to read too, and then you find you have to learn a complete new way of working the machine and washing process.
There was this little light that kept flashing - the bluetooth icon. It appeared that it would connect with my mobile phone if I wanted. Going back to the OP - why on earth would I want to do that for, why was that thought a desirable option to fit.? As the OP said, you have to go to the machine to load it. So why would I want to then go and sit down in another room and the start it over the phone. Crazy
Luckily, the manual also told me which button to hold down for 3 seconds to make it disappear!
|Thread: Two or three axis DRO|
I also started with a 3 axis display on the mill but only scales on the X and Y, but soon added the Z when the opportuntity arose, and wouldn't be without it.
I believe at one time Warco said one couldn't fit a scale on their round column mills, but I managed to fit one on mine - where there's a will there's a way!!
|Thread: A Marine Condensing Engine|
Buried deep in my shed I have a MacGibbons, or the bible as it was known back in the mists of time when i was doing my tickets. All forgotten now, too long ago. Must check it out seeing as we are now back into the old steam stuff!!
Lets assume the ship has a RH prop then and do the crankshaft accordingly, HP leading the LP seems the most logical.
So good that an innocent question can provoke so much discussion and then an answer - great stuff these forums!
|Thread: Condenser Cooling water flow|
Edited By ChrisH on 24/02/2021 13:10:53
Edited By ChrisH on 24/02/2021 13:11:59
I would put cold water in at the bottom too, and exit at the top. The general convention is that the flows go against each other, as stated above.
|Thread: A Marine Condensing Engine|
Don't tell me Tug - that concave face will be JB Welded to the LP cylinder!! Nice bit of machining, I like it. Still reading the download, heavy going in parts.
I noticed on the MEM build log of this engine quite a bit of discussion on the crankshaft having the crankpins at 180deg., one could easily put them at 90 deg I think, to make the engine start in any position, but with my luck I would get the 90 deg in the wrong rotation. Which way does the engine rotate do you think?
Re MEM and this site, I find it goes in waves, sometimes there seems loads of interesting stuff going on at once on MEM and sometimes, like now, not much (interesting to me that is), and the same here.
|Thread: Should it be bent? Meddings Content|
Woodlikesbikes - your first two photos are a no-brainer, that motor pulley is way out in just about every way possible.
Needs a major re-alignment, starting with a strip down of all the motor holding and tensioning parts and closely examining them, looking for un-natural bends or other damage and asking yourself if it was all assembled correctly before strip down.
And I would also bet that the motor is a replacement for the original too, which would lead me to suspect the machine has been dropped or suffered impact damage by some means, hence your problem.
It may be camera angle but in the first photo the steel rule also looks as if it might not be sitting level on the top of the quill pulley and rising up a tad towards the motor pulley.
It would be worthwhile checking the pulleys are turning round true, unlikely the shafts are bent but not unknown, but the pulleys themselves may be not sitting on the shafts squarely, worth a check.
As has been stated above, the pulleys must align perfectly both vertically and horizontally - thats your target! The quill pulley will be your reference providing it is, or when it is, true so all the adjustment comes at the motor end. You may find that you need to provide support under the motor while you are doing this and doing everything up, the motor gets heavily the longer you try and hold it up with one hand while tightening with the other, safer too.
Good luck - not at all difficult, just needs close attention to detail!!
|Thread: Skynet is Coming|
But Duncan, if you can understand and fix your oven when it goes wrong what is the poor mender man going to do, his survival depends on selling you a load of expensive rubbish you don't need.
|Thread: A Marine Condensing Engine|
Jason - thanks for the link, another very interesting thread to read!
Tug - thanks for the detailed reply, you have explained things very well, all is now clear. So many ways to do something and you seem to sort out a very easy and logical path, especially getting around lack of castings - and probably saving shed loads of dosh in the process - as well as providing a satisfying time machining which is after all a major factor in the likes of us doing it in the first place; I have learned a lot from your posts both here and elsewhere.
Never expected for one minute you would do a build log, you've been there, done that and I know you don't want the additional time requirements that would entail; what you are doing now is information enough.
Sorry to hear you don't visit the MEM site much these days, I personally like the way the threads are laid out there, seem clearer to me than here, but thats just my personal preferences!
Funnnily enough, all the time I was at sea I only once saw a marine steam recip engine, in 1964 in a drydock in Cardiff, but never sailed with one. Diesels and steam turbines yes, plenty of, but not steam recip., which is maybe the attraction here!
Re my earlier questions, Q3 - I meant material not weight!!
Trouble with reading a thread like this is you end up wondering what thread it was that was closed and who was the member who took his bat and ball home and wont come out to play again. At least, not with his old name........
Bit like rubber necking an accident really...... one is naturally nosey!
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
Not today but yesterday, I went an bought a replacement rechargeable hand torch, a fairly big one, to replace the same one that is now about 18months old and would not hold a charge and glowed only but dimly.
Me being a hoarder, I took the old torch out to my shed to see what fancy new-fangled battery it had and to then see if I could buy a replacement anywhere.
Stripped it out and found to me surprise that it had a little 4v, 2cell lead-acid battery, not one of the fancy new types I was expecting. And I found I could lift the little cover off, revealing the two little rubber caps over the cells, these came off and there was access to the cells. They seemed dry, not that you could see inside the hooles are so small. I have some little hyperdermic syringe bought in Italy a few years ago, but then couldn't find the battery top up water. But I did have a fulll tank of condensate from the dehymidifyer handy, so a little of that water was added to each cell and then the battery left on charge all night.
So tonight I tested it and its back working just like a real one again. So now I have two!
|Thread: A Marine Condensing Engine|
Having downloaded and printed off the pdf on this engine and then gone through and studied all the drawings, although not read all the construction notes at this stage, has given me a far greater appreciation of what has gone into your condenser to replicate by fabrication what is called for quite a fair casting in the original article. I do like that mindset than can think in that direction.
If I be a pain, could I ask:
I see the front of the bedplate has been hollowed out between top and bottom plates, is that replicated at the back and underneath at all?
Are the supports on the condenser - for the rear of the cylinders etc etc - fixed by c/s screws into the parts through the condenser walls as well as by the now famed JB Weld? (where would you be without JBW?!)
Why did you make the main bearing caps from two pieces - I assume it is a top and a bottom pieces - was it to save weight?
I think I might well work this up for a future project, noting the drawings in dimensions in red for the scale to be worked in, but might do the drawings at half scale instead of 5/8th scale; however I will see how this pans out all the way through the fittings and fixtures as well as part sizes before deciding what scale. I will do them in imperial not metric as I work in imperial for preference, a thou means more to me, I can visualise them better, than bits of a mm although I will/can work in metric.
Finally, can I ask that you continue to post as many pictures - you are generally very generous in this respect - as you can as you progress the build, close-ups as well as general views, as pictures are worth a thousand words as they say.
Looking forward to the next installment,
PS: For the record I am also a manual twiddler, no CNC, the mill has a very nice DRO but only a dial gauge on the lathe longitudinal feed. I too am too old to do this CNC stuff, can't get my head around drawing in 3D never mind whats required for CNC, 2D stuff is still fine for me!
Edited By ChrisH on 19/02/2021 19:31:08
Having now had the time to take a very close and long look at the thread so far, what a lovely bit or workmanship there Tug, it's all looking just so good. Not seen the slip joint done before so always good to learn a new trick, but how did you clean up the JB Weld that (must have) squirted out on the inside, or did you just scrape it off with a long implement like a chisel while it was still soft?
It's blowing a hoolie here and lashing it down so I guess an afternoon studying the pdf download is well on the cards. Scaled to 0.625 you say...........
Tug - brilliant, what a good find, now you have me looking at them and downloading the same pdf, a marine steam engine has always been on my "to do" , it's just my snails pace speed of working has held me back as I struggle to finish and aero engine.
Will be following this build along Tug
|Thread: Confused ....Advice needed rotary table vs dividing head|
Not really the thread to ask this, going off subject, I do apologise in advance, but as Jason mentioned the new forum software, could Jason say whether it will have posts numbered for easy reference please?
|Thread: Plans for updating the archaic forum?|
My thoughts are that this forum may not be the best but it's OK and one can jog along nicely on it. It has limitations but nothing too bad that one can't deal with. To me it's fine as is but I appreciate others get upset by it's limitations and there are reasons to change.
To me I find the Model Engine Maker the best forum site to read and follow, I like the way the posts are presented, easy to read and follow, very clear, easy to refer to other posts as they are numbered, putting photos on are a pain, so not perfect. Home Model Engine Machinist is also a not bad forum site, perhaps clearer than this one, not that I post there much.
There has been talk of the RCM&E website, had not been there recently so took a look. Awful.
PLEASE, don't go down the RCM&E website route until it has been improved greatly, if we must go that route, as has been alluded to in previous posts on this thread. Went on there and it was awful, really awful, not at all user friendly. Trying to find your way around a nightmare, a complete turn-off, do I really need a whole white screen between posts, do I really need to scroll down miles to read the next post, and text is not that clear against the background when you do find it. Got so fed up with it I couldn't be bothered to explore it further, too much effort with not enough interest to reward that effort, so binned the site pronto. A site needs to be easy to use to encourage users to use it, the RCM&E site definitely fails in that respect.
And on the subject of text against a background please take into consideration that some people, like me, are partially colour blind. With certain colour combinations of text and background, blues and yellows and reds and greens, all of certain shades, for starters, means we literally cannot read the text, or can only read it with a lot of difficulty and squinting and frowning and concentration, so get put off and bin the idea and go to something else we can read. Colour blindness also means that those with it 'sees' certain colours completely differently to how other people see it, a certain shade of yellow can appear as a shade of green for example as we see it, which further complicates the issue. To assume all can read all colour combinations demonstrates a complete lack of understanding of the abilities of those with less than perfect eyesight.
PS - I have just been back on the RCM&E website and it has changed since my earlier visit and the posts are much better now, more a more normal look, so I take back some of my earlier criticism, but I am still not liking much of what I see and do I like the adverts between posts -NO!
Edited By ChrisH on 13/02/2021 19:01:03
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