Here is a list of all the postings ChrisH has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ropey Radio Reception?|
Ah - Radio Luxembury and Radio Caroline - that brings back memories and dates me at the same time.
As a young student in 1964 I and a few friends lived in rented a semi-basement flat in Plymouth, I had a good old valve radio, but Luxemburg was hard to pull in, very faint.
Then I realised that the phone line that had been put in when the previous married tennants were 'expecting' and needed a phone for the babys arrival was still in place, the handset had gone but the line was in place.
Eureka! Aerial lead from radio was promptly connected to the phone line and now I had a really effective radio aerial of how ever long it was! Didn't look - didn't dare, anyway at that age, who cared!
Luxemburg now pulled in loud and clear, in fact I could trun the volume up to full because of distortion the signal was now so strong. Ripper!
Edited By ChrisH on 08/05/2021 16:55:47
How bizarre, website perfect with the iPad, no pics with the MacBook. How does that work then?
I will try with my iPad, when I have charged it up!!
Humm Jason, any idea why I should not see photos of the products?
Is it just my computer or is there a problem with the Allendale-Ultrasonics website? Can everyone else see pictures for all the products? On my screen there are only a couple of products sporting photos of the object, the rest of them seem to just have a sort of logo or else the blue square with a question mark in it?
So is it just me?
Edited By ChrisH on 07/05/2021 19:22:19
|Thread: Adept No 1 or Mal-adept?|
I have an Adapt 2 shaper - looking at the pics I do see a ceratin similarity there, so could be an Adapt 1
Chris in good ol' Pommieland
Bob - thanks for the heads up. Sounds like sharp practice.
Will conclude my family tracing and cancel the subscription and also cancel the direct debit at my bank at the same time.
|Thread: B&D workmate|
larry you are NOT alone! I sometimes see my bench, when I'm having a clear up and clear out day, but other days.........
|Thread: Drilled Hole Tolerances|
Thanks for all the responses - it being a nice day have been totally tied up in gardening and then the first barbie of the season, so sorry for no reply until now.
Some very interesting replies, and a nice trick with the to size drill with the corners stoned off, might try that.
Have taken all that has been said on board and will rethink the method application in the morning, too tired now!
Agreed Jason, but the bar is about an inch down in a block and will be mounted on the mill table. Just concerned that I would be able to accurately achieve that using the mill's boring bar, hence the easier option of a drill so the question remains.
I could try a setup on the lathe if I could hold the assembly in the four jaw and set it up to run true, easier to set up true on the mill, I'm certainly more confident of accuracy in boring on the lathe.
I have also tried a 10mm end mill to fo the final (skim) cut, but with the same result as the drills, 10+thou over.
PS Plus I don't have a reamer and reluctant to buy one just now!
Edited By ChrisH on 24/04/2021 10:30:31
Putting a bracket ) after a " and I get a winking smilie when the post is posted, not what I wanted! Why is that?
I have a need to accurately drill a 10mm diameter hole transversely in a 16mm diameter bar. Actually, a hole a few thou under 10mm would be ideal. 25/64th inch is 0.3906", 0.003" under, so possibly ideal.
However. I was concerned that it would not drill accurately - my 10mm diameter drill drilled a hole nigh on 0.014" (0.35mm) bigger than 10mm - so I did a trial.
I have a stub of 20mm bar so set that up on the drill and drilled progressively holes of diameters 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and finally 25/64", starting with a centre drill and using a pecking technique rather than just blasting through. From 1/4" and upwards I measured each hole diameter with an inside mic; the 1/4" hole was 0.0025" oversize, the 5/16" hole 0.003" oversize, the 3/8" hole a whopping 011" oversize and the 25/64 hole 0.006" oversize.
So the 25/64, far from being 0.003" in theory under 10mm ends up 0/003" over 10mm.
Question is, are these tolerances the norm (not really bothered to check before) or would a better quality drill be more accurate?
And would getting a 9.8mm - 0.3858" - drill on the basis that if it drilled few thou oversize as expected it would end up roughly where I want it to be, be a good option, or would a high quality drill drill more accurately, and if so, what make is recommended?
All my drills are bog standard HSS drills of no particular parentage BTW.
Edited By ChrisH on 24/04/2021 10:18:20
Edited By ChrisH on 24/04/2021 10:19:11
|Thread: Accuracy to be expected from a 0-1" travel DTI|
I use a 0-2" dial indicator (as in Andrews post above) on an adjustable rod to measure carriage travel towards the headstock on my lathe. It has always been spot on for me with no errors noted.
|Thread: Axminster tools to discontinue their engineering courses.|
I first went into Axminster Tools in Axminster in about 2008 after I moved down to Somerset.
Since that time they have been steadily running down the engineering side with less and less available every time I went in (and seemingly to me putting the prices up on what they did sell) and concentrating on tools and stuff to use on that brown stuff, so not surprised that the engineering courses are to end/have ended.
I stopped going into Axminster Tools about 18months ago because of that. No point.
|Thread: A Marine Condensing Engine|
Tug - you mentioned two phases in your last post that I missed when I commented on using JB Weld - "if done properly" and "fully cure". They are the important bits!
Nice work Tug - most impressive construction for the cylinders. Not only have you made the lot look like a real casting, but I am sure the JB Weld used will hold well and is a good construction material. I know you want to run the engine only on air, so heat doesn't come into it, but even on steam I fell sure JB Weld would be good.
I would hazard a guess that most model engineers, running this engine on steam, would only use steam at about 150psi max; (though probably a bit less, 100-125 psi maybe, maybe as low as 80psi) at 150psi the saturated steam temp is only around 350ish deg.F, (358 to be pedantic at 150psi!). Given that the Original JB Weld is able to withstand 550 deg.F and even at 200 psi the saturated steam temp is only about 380deg.F, so there is a fair degree of leeway in there temp-wise, even allowing for a fair degree of superheat, so yes, technique used is good to go!
Know what you mean about garden work, on the case myself, but looking forward to your next instalment whenever that is.
Edited By ChrisH on 15/03/2021 14:01:00
|Thread: A Certain Age|
I think it all depends on whether we are looking at "number" or "items" as to whether we use "is" or "are".
There is an argument that says that "items" is the subject in that sentence. If that were the case then "numbers" just refers to the items in the same ways as we could say "some of the items", in which case the use of "are" is correct.
|Thread: Dipping a toe into VFD stuff|
+1 for that
|Thread: Is this a daft idea please?|
I bought a Warco 'Economy' Mill/Drill, one of the last they sold about 7 or 8 years ago, forget when exactly - think RF25 mill/drill for comparison. That weighted about the same, a tad over 200kg I seem to remember.
It had to go into my shed then up onto a solid built wooden bench 900mm off the deck, so I did exactly what you are proposing - took the motor off, then the head, then the table which left just the base and the column and its base. I would have taken the column and its base off as well had I been on my own but my daughter was staying with us so she helped me lift what remained onto the bench, then I reassembled it.
Gave me a good insight into how it was built and I could check on a few things as I reasembled it too.
So definitely doable!!
|Thread: A Marine Condensing Engine|
Thanks Tug, what you say about the slip joint clearance & JBW was what I had imagined but it was nice to have the confirmation having not done it yet.
Re the bores I was thinking maybe if acute attention was paid to the turning then honing may not be necessary, I hope so!
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