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Member postings for John Wood1

Here is a list of all the postings John Wood1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford ML7 Tooling & Equipment
16/06/2012 15:33:28

Hi John, well done on getting the ML7. In case you don't yet know the current Myford owners are www.rdgtools.co.uk where you can navigate to the Myford users section to find lots of tooling and accessories. (Also see their ad on this forum)

Three jaw chucks usually come with both pairs of jaws which are specific to that chuck for accuracy purposes so, it may be best to get a new chuck when you can and keep the other as a spare (most useful as you get on).

The shank size of your lathe tools is dependent on the tool post being used. The tool cutting edge needs to be set at exact centre to the mandrel so you should measure from the lathe centre to the bottom of your tool holder to find the maximum tool shank you can use although you should allow a little for adjustment (packing). In practice a 10mm shank is usually fine.

Cutting tools are many and various of course and everyone has their own views on the subject however, a good starting point is to either buy a small selection of HSS (High Speed Steel) tools or, if you are able, get some HSS blanks and grind your own. This method is cheap and versatile. There are many sets of carbide tipped tools which are also worthy contenders but you could do with a special (green) wheel for sharpening. The indexable tools are very good and convenient but somewhat expensive, plus you need to keep spare tips so possibly leave those for the future. Glanz and Greenwood being a couple of popular makes.

Many of the usual suppliers advertise on this website so do have a look on the right hand side of the page.

Hope this helps

John

Thread: Why are flywheel keys square?
04/05/2012 15:15:15

Many thanks for the posts which have helped me get my head around the subject. Also thanks for the other ideas, all useful info.

Cheers John

24/04/2012 15:19:35

I am currently building the Redwing engine and have got to the flywheels. The keyway has to be broached but I don't have a proper broach and therefore have to use a square ended tool and 'plane' the metal away. The problem is the casting is so hard thet I struggle to take any metal off at all. I have made a cast iron plug to fit snugly into the centre and drilled through at the intersection, this removes most of the metal and I have now managed to get a decent square groove,

It occured to me that if one used a round key then all this fuss would be avoided - wouldn't it? I know one would have to use a round nosed cutter to mill the corresponding groove in the crankshaft but I reckon that's easier than broaching.

I bet there is something I have not realised so would someone please enlighten me?

Thanks, John

Thread: Propane and glow plugs
30/03/2012 16:15:04

Hi Howard. The demand regulator design you have works very well but you may struggle to find a suitable diaphragm and needle valve. When made do carry out a hydro check for leakage.

I have recently written an article describing the use for model engines of a commercial demand regulator, this looks similar to the old 'gas bags' used on early town gas powered stationary engines. One of these fitted to a Propane bottle provides a ready-to-go system which can easily be coupled to any engine. It's not cheap though - around £100!

The article is with David for ME magazine but i don't know when, or if it will be published. If you do need any advance information then please let me know and I can e-mail to you.

All the best, John

Thread: Cleaning up castings
08/02/2012 15:13:40
OK, thanks guys. I ended up getting the really rough high bits off with a small grinding wheel in an electric drill (outdoors mounted on a Workmate) and for general smoothing I tried out my two sets of Dremmel style grinding/polishing kits, just to see how they performed. One was low power and kept stopping under load and the other had decent power but a very poor button arrangement to stop the chuck turning whilst tightening on a tool, result....the tool kept working out. It did however prove to me that this approach was what I needed and so I have splashed out on a Dremmel 4000 kit which, so far, is excellent.
 
I considered leaving the castings in the rough for authenticity and realised that a totally smooth finish may look a bit out of place so I have gone somewhere in between, the resulting painted look is, in my opinion about right.
 
Thanks again for all the advice. Now I'm battling with turning the darn'd flywheels!!
 
John
Thread: Mig Welder Caught Fire
08/02/2012 14:25:50
If it's just a bush then I understand one can get machinable ceramic from (I believe) RS Components. I have made many insulation components in the past from Tufnol which is a woven fibre material rather like paxolin but not brittle and easy to machine.
 
Hope this helps - John
Thread: Cleaning up castings
18/01/2012 11:07:28
Many thanks to one and all, you have given me several good ideas to go at and it's a real help to know what others do. It looks like I don't need to chuck money at it really so that can be kept for something else.
 
Right then! it's goggles on, dustmask and gloves on and wait for a mild day when I can do it outside so as not to spread iron dust all over the workshop.
 
Thanks again, John
17/01/2012 15:53:28
Thanks for that. I will investigate die grinders although I don't have an air source. I thought of the Dremel but, to be honest, I have a couple of these mini grinder type sets, one from a holiday in France (some obscure make I reckon) and the other is a Black & Decker. I find that neither of these have much power and the motor slows to a stop with very light pressue on any tool. My question now is does the Dremel have reasonable power to actually do any sensible work? as I am reluctent to buy one only to find it is no better than these others.
 
Not an easy question to answer of course because I can't quantify the power of mine but some indication would be helpful. I guess the only real way is with the hand tools.
 
Thanks, John
16/01/2012 10:54:34
Up 'till now I have cleaned up new castings using normal hand tools but this can sometimes be hard work. I have just started work on my latest project, a Redwing hit-n-miss engine, and find the castings have a lot of flashing to be removed as well as a good amount of finishing, so I thought it about time I got mechanised.
 
I have had a look at disc sanders, disc and belt sanders and the hand (file) type 1" sanders, mainly in the Axminster catalogue, all of which no doubt would do some or all of the job but I would very much appreciate the advice of those who do have a method of cleaning up castings without too much hard work.
 
Many thanks, John
Thread: Stationary Engine for Beginner
01/12/2011 16:45:43
yep, Terryd is quite right; get hold of both of Tubal Cain's books on simple steam engines and these will take you from the very simple oscillating engine right up to quite advanced designs. No castings and excellent instructions are invaluable when starting out and, as Terryd says, results are often quick to acheive thus providing great satisfaction. The experience gained is invaluable and helps give confidence to go on to more demanding products.
 
The main thing is to enjoy it first and strive for perfection later.
 
All the best, John
Thread: My Super-7 trips out
08/11/2011 11:56:18
Thanks guys, I shall go away and check all the above out and I'm sure I shall be able to resolve the problem now. Of course I could just convert to three phase and use one of the proprietry speed controllers, I have done this to my larger Warco and it's brillient.
 
First things first though.....
 
John
05/11/2011 11:34:28
I purchased a factory rebuilt Super-7 lathe on an industrial stand from Myford's liquidators back in the summer but am having trouble with it cutting out.
 
I can use it for five minutes or so then the cut-out relay clunks but resets itself, so I carry on. A minute or so later it trips out completely. Press the start button and it comes on OK for a minute or so then does it again, this time often with a bit of relay chatter first, start it again and a minute later it stops and will not re-start until it has stood for five or ten minutes. I have tried it under load (being used) and just running free but no difference. The motor has only the chill taken off it, certainly not hot so I need to investigate further.
 
I have the usual industrial switch panel with the large red stop and smaller green start buttons. The overload relay is a Crabtree type BD. I have made sure the white adjusting wheel is set to maximum (it was when I got the lathe) and the relay looks to be in good condition and has been probably re-wired at Myfords. The relay contacts were dirty so these were cleaned but with no improvement.
 
Does anyone have any suggestions please?
 
Thanks, John
Thread: Lathe and mill or combination
30/09/2011 16:10:49
I bought a Warco 300 combination lathe but soon discovered that decent milling was hard to achieve and it was a right pain changing between lathe and milling work. I now have a separate miller and have in fact removed the milling head from the lathe as it gets in the way.
 
John
Thread: Different Steels
31/01/2011 17:32:21
Cor, it's all a bit highbrow. Now in my 'last-word-in-technology' workshop (?) I just buy whatever is marked 'BMS' for turning and either HSS or silver steel for toolmaking, it seems to work - most of the time! I expect I will come a cropper somewhere along the line.
 
Good information though guys and all noted in my little black book for future reference.
 
All the best
John
Thread: My Farm Engine
18/12/2010 12:18:56
Hi Hobbynut, you really don't need much compression with this form of low-revving engine, so long as you can feel a noticable resistance at TDC then you should be OK. If it's a new build you might benefit from 'running-in' for a while, I usually hook up a belt to a lathe, take out the spark plug and turn it over on a  medium speed for perhaps an hour or so, this helps bed the rings in and will help compression.  I assume there is an auto inlet valve so you need to make sure that there is enough suction to open this, although (helpfully!) you often can't see this happening, if you suspect a lack of fuel in the cylinder then try using a lighter valve spring.
 
As Ian says compression requirements can vary to some extent depending on the fuel used but I use both petrol and Butane gas without problems.  If it is firing there can't be much wrong. Often these engines go best at around TDC or just before and, in my experience this setting is not that critical. If though you are using  electronic ignition then this may need setting more like the 20 degrees BTDC that Ian mentions.
 
It can help if you put a squirt of WD40 into the cylinder before starting, this helps ensure maximum compression at start-up.  Otherwise do certainly have a look at the IC forum on this site.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards,  John
Thread: Scale model Economy hit & miss engine builders wanted
27/11/2010 11:55:55
Well done Charles, it's certainly getting there and all credit to you.  The governor spring needs to be lighter to run slower, and indeed to get it to open in the first place, I can run mine VERY slowly indeed and much less that 400rpm although 4 to 5 is certainly a decent working speed.  I picked up a small electronic strobe off the internet, it's the type which triggers from a small piece of white reflective tape stuck onto the wheel, it all works fine and was not too expensive (about £20 as I remember). I thought about building one myself based on the 555 timer chip but felt my time was worth more to me so went for the easy commercial option.
 
Will you be trying it on gas at any time I wonder?
 
LA Services demo engine runs slowly but without hit & miss which, I agree is not the best way of demonstrating, I guess it's less likely to falter when running continuously so that's why they do it.
 
Have now moved house (at last) so no workshop yet.  Will get back into it probably in the spring.
 
All the best,  John
Thread: Drill chuck keys
19/10/2010 15:38:57
Posted by David Clark 1 on 01/10/2010 07:57:09:
Hi There
A good drill chuck should not need a key.
You should be able to tighten it by hand and the drull should not turn unless you force it into the job.
regards david
 
 This makes sense although the comment from Axel re thread size probably qualifies the practice, try it and if it works for you then great. This now brings up the question as to whether keyless chucks are good replacements for keyed ones, presumably they are made to give a good grip. A changeover to keyless would certainly solve the usual "where's that darn key gone" problem.
 
Regards
John
Thread: End mills in lathe chuck
19/10/2010 15:26:36
Thanks Derrick for starting this thread, it's been a real eye opener for me who naively thought that 3-jaw chucks were pretty good and that milling in the lathe was easy and accurate.  In the light of all the valuable gen which has come to light from those learned scribes above, I am now going off to review my turning and milling techniques with the view to improving accuracy across the board.  Thanks guys.
 
All the best
John  
Thread: Scale model Economy hit & miss engine builders wanted
15/10/2010 16:02:51
Yes, 1/4 BSP is what LA Services use to fit standard iron elbows which is also what they use on theirs - and mine.
 
Charles, lots of gen on the way to you, see separate e-mail.
 
Luck to all
 
John
Thread: Midlands Model Engineering Show at Warwick
15/10/2010 15:54:40
Hi John, be there on Monday to say hello.
 
Have fun
John
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