Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: My Elmers Tiny wont work !|
If you squirt a drip or two of oil into the inlet pipework before you connect your air hose that will blow the oil through the engine and get it all lubed internally.
|Thread: Turning / machining Aluminium - Tips|
Alloy is not ideal for flywheels as being light weight it does not have the mass of an brass, bronze or iron flywheel. What other bits are you thinking of changing then we can advise if alloy is suitable.
Parafin is a good lubricant or pump action WD40.
HSS will be fine though you may want to grind a slightly higher top rake, if going for tipped tools then the specific alloy and non ferrous tips work very well.
|Thread: Stephenson valve gear|
Can't see why you are wanting to make another slide valve.
The Paxman has a 0.6" long valve and the overall width of the ports is 0.5" so that will give you the 0.05" lap at each end as Greenley (not Paxman) says.
Eccentrics look to give approx 1/4" of movement and the inlet slots are 5/64" wide.
Therfore when eccentric is in mid position there will be 0.05" of valve beyond the port, when eccentric is at full throw it will have moved 0.125" which is equal to the lap (0.05" ) plus Port (0.078" ) so the inlet port will be fully opened.
Now what you are possible getting confused with is the "lead" of the valve which if the eccentric is set to lead the crank by 90deg plus say 8-12 deg will show a hairline opening when the crank is a TDC not the eccentric.
Edited By JasonB on 29/03/2012 17:13:42
|Thread: accurate boring|
Accurately mark out both parts so the centre distances are the same, clamp to the faceplate and use a dti to pick up one centre, drill to about 1/16" less than finished and then bore to the required fit. Repeat for the other 3 holes. If you leave the bar as one piece 4" long it will make it easier to hold and the saw in half afterwards.
If you have a mill then hold teh bar in the vice on parallels, drill and bore as above with a boring head.
PS if your faceplate is not true then skim it before starting work.
PPS That sounds a largish engine it would be worth pinning the joints after soldering so it won't budge. Or cut from solid, this and the next few picks show a crank machined from 2"x1" bar.
Edited By JasonB on 28/03/2012 17:46:42
Edited By JasonB on 28/03/2012 17:49:13
|Thread: Turning small brass knobs|
May just be easier to get some small brass knobs, something like these and remove the steel woodscrew and replace with a bit of threaded rod, they come 3/8, 1/2 & 3/4 inch dia and in polished brass. Not too far from you either and there ironmongery is all very good quality not your usual thin cheap tat, I use them quite a bit.
|Thread: Copper Rivets|
If you need the fabrication to be watertight then tin the mating surfaces with soft solder before riviting then sweat them together once all the rivits have been hammered home, thats what makes this brass fabrication watertight.
|Thread: My Elmers Tiny wont work !|
Needs the flywheel
|Thread: How Would You makes this?|
The wheels for marking leather are still available, this is one of the suppliers I use for woodworking tools but they do leather working as well
Edited By JasonB on 27/03/2012 12:27:24
Looks like you will have to get someone to take of Photo of you and Bandit and use that then John
The bit of a metric scale in the bottom right makes it easy to see what the size is and how would you drill the rectangular holes on a mill?
Yes I thought brass as well.
Edited By JasonB on 26/03/2012 07:27:59
Looks like its been punched out so would have to make a rectangular punch and space out a row of holes, step over for the next row and then back for the next etc.
|Thread: burrell traction engine|
Oh, just saw the 3/4" in which case it may be a Basset Lowke as they did a "Burrell type" engine in that scale.
Depends on what scale and which particular design of engine. several different people do Burrells
Also by kit are you referring to a set of machined parts or castings & drawings
|Thread: filing cat iron|
Take the skin off as much as possible with a carbide burr or small grinding bit in a Dremel or die grinder then file out the corners and tidy the faces with a file.
You say the part cannot be machined but why can't you mill out to the 7/8 square and then just file the corners if you don't want an internal radius. You could also knock up a tool like a slotting head and plane the corners out. I think filing alone will not give a good sliding face unless you are very good at filing or use a rest.
To help people see what you want to do, this is the part in question
Edited By JasonB on 25/03/2012 08:16:43
|Thread: source of plans|
They are now MHobbyStore, click the plans and x-list plans tab on teh left
|Thread: 7/16" BSP Tap|
Well about right for BSP as 1/4" & 3/8" also use the 19tpi before it changes to 14 for 1/2"
Ian you are making the same mistake that I did. JS's tap is about 3/4 dia so that would be about right for a 7/16 ID pipe with 1/8" wall thickness.
|Thread: New blocks on the kid ?|
The backstop facility must be governed by how much you tighten the nut. So you could get bit of a different setting each time you change a part.
|Thread: Quorn Castings|
Just saw on another forum that the site is back up
dodgy link deleted
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 07/05/2018 18:31:28
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