By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Novice beginner
10/02/2010 17:58:32
I,ve just had a look through all the old 3" Burrells on SRS and they all seem to have perfectly sizes front spokes. Without seeing the drawing its a bit hards to say whats wrong, Have a look through The pictures for yourself and see how the Tee is proportioned to the spoke thickness as this may indicate that the 5/8 dim is wrong.
The 3/8" does sound a bit small for a 3" engine, the palms of the front spokes on my 2" Fowler are 3/8, even allowing for the fact the Burrell is a smaller prototype I would have thought they would be bigger
Thread: Info needed
10/02/2010 17:48:24
Not dealt with him but just watch out as some of his lathes do not include things like 4-jaw, faceplate , fixed and traveling steadies, etc as standard unlike Chester and Warco so this may not make the item such a good deal by the time these have been added on.
Thread: Novice beginner
10/02/2010 16:43:22
The adhesive is used in addition to the csk screws, just stops any slight movement. Something like a slow setting Araldite will do.
The palm of the spoke does not usually touch the inside face of the rim due to the fillet on the casting or welded joint. I'll look at a few engines and get back to you re what should be right. And the boys on TT will also help, seen you have been there.
Thread: Tertium Quid Drawing Errors
09/02/2010 20:34:34
Just spotted a few errors on these drawings
Base plate (both drawings) the overall size of the cut out is given as 1/4" (25mm) assume it should be 1".
Also on the base plate there is no way of locating the cutout vertically. I think it should align with teh 1/8 & 1/4 hole positions abu as drawn the cutout lines do not line up with the centre holes.
Flywheel The side elevation gives a total rim thickness of 1/4" but the section gives 1/4 + 1/16
Don't know if the metric dims are a new addition or from the original article but if newly added can they be consistant. 1 1/4" is shown as both 30mm and 32mm. 7/8" is given as 24mm and 25mm when its usual to round it to 22mm
I'll let you know if I see any more
Thread: Lusus Naturae - Drawing Revisions
09/02/2010 20:14:37
Thanks guys but the vertical centres of the holes are still missing.
09/02/2010 19:40:06
Good to see that the missing dimensions have been added to the web site.
Unfortunately these revisions are wrong, the Valve cranks are made from two pieces of 1/16" material and  you have now changed the overall thickness to 1/2" not the 1/8" as printed in the magmust be used to working in metric as the 1.5mm and 3.0mm sizes are right.
There is still no vertical centre distance for the holes, though it looks like its the same as the horizontal at 3/8"
And for consistancy should the 3/8" hole centers also have a nominal 10mm as all the other imperial sizes have a metric equivalent shown.

Edited By JasonB on 09/02/2010 19:42:34

Edited By JasonB on 09/02/2010 19:49:05

Thread: Novice beginner
09/02/2010 18:53:04
Good to hear you have made a start.
Its usual practice to mount the rim & hub in a jig and then bend the spokes to suit as the angle will vary slightly depending on what radius you allow on teh bend and how far from the hub/palm you make the bends.

Edited By JasonB on 09/02/2010 18:53:57

Thread: Bending steel tube
08/02/2010 14:55:48
You can get 16mm conduit benders,
may even be able to hire one for a day.


Edited By David Clark 1 on 22/02/2010 15:14:14

Thread: Hexagon holes
07/02/2010 07:56:38
You could make a broach to finish the hole once its been roughed out as you describe, assuming its a through hole. You can buy hex broaches but at over £100 for the smallers sizes you would need to be making a lot of holes.
Depending what you call small and the depth of cut it could be done with a rotary table and small milling cutter, then just file out the corners
Or build yourself an EDM machine
Thread: Adhesives
30/01/2010 18:53:45
This will take you to an album with pictures of a CI face being made and then glued in, give me a while and I'll find the builders description of the process.
30/01/2010 17:01:09
I've seen it done on a 4" traction engine with Araldite, go for a slower setting one not the 5min rapid.
Thread: Is it worth the money
27/01/2010 18:52:28
It can be worked out from whats on the backhead, I'll pm you rather than mention on the forum.
These photos and the subject of this post have done the rounds on a number of forums over the last year or so. They have been removed from several due to possible legal issues (David Please Note)
27/01/2010 18:33:24
Meyrick, its not just the soldering, look in the albums section for the rest of the photos.

Edited By JasonB on 27/01/2010 18:34:12

27/01/2010 17:03:39
Just seen the other pics in your album and now realise this is the same boiler you have posted about on several other forums under the username Ayesha2. Yes it does look rough and I would have expected better if paying for it.
Not sure what that companies price is compared to others but I went to the supplier recommended for my fowler boiler not the one with the lowest price or the shortest waiting list.
27/01/2010 10:15:20
Without knowing what you paid for it its hard to say if its worth the money!!
Are you asking if a professionally made boiler should look a bit tidier? This is my Fowler one by Western Steam if you want something to compare with, at least Helen can do a decent job with the letter punches
That firehole ring joint looks like it could do with a bit more solder
Thread: Rack locomotive of 1812
25/01/2010 12:33:34
If you look at the drawing and the photo there is a 5.5mm dia flange thats 1mm thick and 11mm from the the end. You will either have to it from 7/32 reducing teh ends to 3mm and 0.110 or silver solder a flange onto some 3mm rod and just turn the top down to 0.110 for the 6BA thread.
I assume the cross head bears against this flange and is retained by the 6ba nut
Thread: PTFE Plastics
23/01/2010 17:07:50
Having made a similar ball turner  there is no real need for any form of washer, infact I ended up using the small spanner from my QCTP as the lever which is quite short. Lets face it out cross and top slides are just metal on metal and they run OK under the same loads.
As Meyrick says a drop of way oil under the body will do the job.

Edited By JasonB on 23/01/2010 17:10:33

Thread: Rack locomotive of 1812
23/01/2010 16:30:56
I would say that the shoulder and lip are the same thing, the short end being turned to suit the 6ba thread.
Thread: colchester vertical slide
22/01/2010 13:15:46
No the sides are just square so that method won't work, you can see it clearly on the MK2 drawing below, the MK 1 is almost identical
I've just looked through a book on building hit & miss engine models and the guy uses a Bantum, you can clearly see a tee slotted sub table fixed to teh back half of teh cross slide and some threaded holes in teh topslide when its not in use. Question is are these threaded holes standard??

Edited By JasonB on 22/01/2010 13:19:04

22/01/2010 11:53:57
I don't think the cross slide is slotted so you would have to cobble up some form of sub-table or drill the topslide. You can but a tee slotted table but it will set you back around £250
The later ones were MT5 not sure about the arlier but I suspect they were MT tapered. Make sure it comes with a short MT reducer as that will add to teh cost if you need a new one. ARC Eurotrade do them.
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Meridenne Boat 2019
Eccentric July 5 2018
TRANSWAVE Converters
Eccentric Engineering
Allendale Electronics
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest