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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Gear wheels
04/12/2009 17:51:30
Another vote for HPC
 
J
Thread: Flanging tender side panels
04/12/2009 17:47:32
Being brass the tender was tinned with soft solder and once rivited was heated again and more solder run around the joints.
 
You can use a rubber like isoflex or there are several similar products for sealing petrol tanks etc that you just pour in, swill around and then empty out the excess.
 
Jason
03/12/2009 18:49:49
Photobucket is now working again, if you have a look in this album you can see the former, 30mm mild steel with a 10mm cover plate. There is also a pic of the soldered in corner near the end of the album.
 
Jason
Thread: stuart s50 build
03/12/2009 13:09:40
Smal lpieces of aluminium between the jaws and the 3 sides of the cylinder will allow you to hold it with the 4th jaw on the valve face. Just make sure there is no risk of the packers flying out. If th edifference is not that much then you may be able to bend a bit of flat into a "U" shape.
 
You may find a bung of wood in the end of the cyl will help with marking the ctr so you can align it with the tailstock ctr and a square off the chuck face to keep it in line
 
Try to machine the bore and the end of the casting where the piston rod enters at the same setting then all will be square and concentric, it does not matter if the other end is a little off.
 
Jason
Thread: Novice beginner
03/12/2009 13:04:34
You don't actually need discs. You just need a flat platform like a bit of MDF or off cut of worktop. You then fit a pin to hold the hub and clamp the rim concentric to this as you build up the wheels.
 
I would suggest you ask Santa for a good book on building traction engines that will show you the different ways to tackle the various parts be it wheel building, machining the cylinder, forming the tender etc. I think the best one is Edward Georges you can get details from his site and Dave's books are quite good as well.
 
It wil also help to look through some peoples build diaries such as Conrad's on his 4" Burrell and there are several builds being documented on Traction Talk forum in the model engines section.
 
Most people seem to start with the front end as its a reasonable way to ease yourself into a project.
 
And don't be affraid to ask anything.
 
Jason
Thread: Flanging tender side panels
03/12/2009 07:20:54
You really need to make the former from a substantial piece of MS plate, cut to profile and with the corners eased to suit the radius of the curve and another plate to clamp your tender side down flat.
 
There is no need to work the metal hot but as it work hardens it will need annealing, if you try to do this to just the tender side it will buckle and you will have a job getting it flat. If you keep it clamped between the steel formers but slid it out about an inch you can anneal with a propane torch and the formers will stop the heat affecting the flat area.
 
I did my 2" Fowler this way though I found it easier to cut and silver solder a piece into the bottom corner rather than try and loose the metal. This is quite often done on the larger scale engines as it then means you just need to flange straight section and add the bottom corner and in your case the curve for the bunker
 
The site I use to host photos is down for maintanace at the moment so can't post pics of my formers & tender but have a look at Conrads site and this and the following page
 
Jason
Thread: HELP Wanted! Cutting Metal - But By What Means?
02/12/2009 16:24:59
It can be done on the lathe either by sandwiching between a disc of wood held in the lathe and another to apply pressure from the tailstock with light cuts. If there is a hole in the ctr of the disc then add a pin which will help stop it going AWOL id you get it wrong and have a dig in.
 
A treppaning tool in the brill or mill will also do the job.
 
Jason
02/12/2009 12:47:43
I still think you would clog the teeth on anything over 1" stock as the stroke of the blade is quite short compared with a power hacksaw, so the swarf will just get rubbed back and forth, gravity won't pull it down out of the cut. You would also have the proiblem of the blade trying to lift the work off the table if it was mounted on the top as they cut on the pull.
 
Only you know what sizes you will need to be cutting so its hard to say if the extra capacity is worth it
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 02/12/2009 12:48:46

02/12/2009 07:32:38
The problem with a Recip' saw is that because the blade is only held at one end it will tend to wander. Also the short stroke will have a job clearing swarf from the cut
 
Jason
Thread: Milling cutters
02/12/2009 07:28:12
HSS with or without cobalt will be fine, The solid carbide are really only of use on difficult materials like chilled cast iron, they are also easily damaged, just drop one and you could chip it.
 
Your ER collet will work fine holding screwed, plain of the FC-3 disposables with the flat on the shank.
 
The disposable FC-3 type work out quite economic but being a bit shorter can give clearance problems when you need to mill close to hold down bolts as the chuck can hit the bolts.
 
You would be better off buying the cutters as you need them and get ones of a reasonable quality, some of the sets can be a bit rough.
 
Have a read of this recent thread as it covers some of what you are asking 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 02/12/2009 07:29:39

Thread: Super X3 Mill spindle
01/12/2009 20:29:37
You may also want to ask on the X series mill Group
 
Jason
01/12/2009 07:30:15
I'd also measure the inside edge of the MT just to make sure its not the bar. Did it not come with an original test certificate. Also check the bearings are adjusted properly my X3 adjusting nuts were so loose you could move the spindle 20thou each way.
 
Jason
Thread: HELP Wanted! Cutting Metal - But By What Means?
01/12/2009 07:27:28
Warco do quite a compact  Bench mounted one, and the usual 4x6 that most other suppliers do.
 
Jason
 
 
Thread: Novice beginner
30/11/2009 19:08:41
Have a look at Alan Stepney's site before you cut any metal as there are some drawing errors listed there.
 
 
Jason
Thread: Water cut wheels
29/11/2009 10:33:16
You should be able to find someone local. If you can give them a DXF file then they should be able to put that straight into the machine. Though they can work from a paper drawing you will have to pay for them to convert it.
 
This guy advertises on several other forums, never tried him myself, worth an e-mail to see if he can do it
 

Roger Mason, St. Agnes
marodo.cutting[ at ]virgin.net
01872 553 488

 
Jason
Thread: Milling Tools
29/11/2009 07:17:04
Hertel is the maker, not the type. and yes as far as I can tell they are FC3s
 
If you want some very reasonably priced milling cutters try these can't beat them for general work or use on castings to save risking the Dormers on a hard spot.
 
Jason
Thread: myford boxford or colchester
28/11/2009 17:23:19
I tend to leave my lathe on the 50-950 range a sthe slower speed is more useful than the high I can get in the 100-1900 range.
 
Yes the Maximat is also good, having had a Emcomat 8.6 for 20yrs I can vouch for Emco quality. You just don't see many about
 
Jason
Thread: Boring an Engine Cylinder
28/11/2009 16:41:59
Its not hard to make a between ctrs bar out of a bit of say 1" bar, cross drill oor a 1/4" HSS toolbit and retain with a grub screw, you can stop teh 1/4" hole short and thread the remainder so a screw can be used to advance the tool bit. Thats how I did the cylinder for my Hit and Miss engine.
 
The faceplate is another option, you can just use any angle iron and some clamps, bit like this cylinder thats about the same size as yours. I used a bit of 5/8 bar and machined the end to take a carbide insert to give me a stiff boring bar.
 
Jason
Thread: myford boxford or colchester
28/11/2009 13:02:01
You can get the Bantum 1600 which has a two speed motor so you get twice as many speeds from the same box with the fastest being 1600.
 
And the Mk II can be had in 800, 1600 and 2000
 
And the Mk III went to 2000 and was basically a rebadged Harrison M250
 
Bit more spec here
 
Jason
 
PS I'd go for the Bantum pref Mk2 or 3

Edited By JasonB on 28/11/2009 13:03:48

Thread: Milling Tools
28/11/2009 07:27:10
Have a look at J&L for cutting tools, they do a large range of Dormer drills, taps, mills etc will also have a moore & wright tri-square (not set square)
 
Their Hertel disposable milling cutters are also good value, especially iof you wait for a pro-mo, I just stocked up as they had 35% off.
 
Its a bit hard to search the site but if you click the virtual catalogue thats easy to flick through, also worth ordering the paper catalogue which is about 2" thick.
 
 
 
And talking of ball race shells, there was an interesting bit in MEB, the guy used what looked about a 9" dia shell when tramming his mill, it allows a DTI to be revolved buy hand without it dipping into the tee slots
 
Jason

Edited By JasonB on 28/11/2009 07:29:30

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