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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Muncaster's Simple Entablature Engine
09/08/2019 07:39:47

Additional content to go with Part 2.

The four embryo columns with the end spigots turned and ctr drilled.


This is the method I used to cut the tapers using a boring head to offset the centre but the same can be done by offsetting the tailstock.

Hold by the bottom spigot with enough room to let the tool clear the cut and touch off against the 12mm diameter.


Zero the handwheel dial or DRO if you have one.


Wind the tool away by half the difference in diameters in this case 1mm [(10-8) / 2], my dial reads in diameter so I moved it 2mm (0.079" )


Now move the carrage so that the tool is at the other end of the work and you will see the gap


Now move the ctr towards you until the tool touches off on the work



It is now just a case of turning along teh length in a couple of passes preferably using power feed until your cross slide reads zero and you should end up with a nice taper.


Repeat for the other 3 columns


Thread: Lathe - dead centre wont reach the workpiece
09/08/2019 07:00:31

That's an easy one to solve if you have spare length in the workpiece. Turn your toolpost through 180 degrees and mount the holder on the right side and have the tool poking out the other end. A revolving ctr will also help as they are longer than dead ctrs.

You may also need to angle the topslide so the handle end does not foul the tailstock

Thread: First Lathe
08/08/2019 20:28:12

So it sounds like you are not going to be doing a great deal of screw cutting as most model engines can be done without or on the odd occasion where something non standard or large is needed will be rare in which case something like the 290 you originally mentioned would be fine. The extra 5mins it takes to change over the gear train a few times a year is acceptable and opens up your options.

The 290 size machine can also be had with a "keyhole" type mounting which just requires the loosening of 3 nuts and off comes the chuck for another and just nip up the 3 nuts again. This is a better option than a loose nutted flange mount which can be fiddly particularly if you are mounting the faceplate or have fat fingers.

The main reason for having a large bore is that you can chuck a length of bar, machine your part and then saw or part off, if you have a smaller spindle bore then you have to cut bar into shorter lengths and end up with a growing pile of bar ends.

Thread: Finished my beam engine.
07/08/2019 15:11:04

Engine looks good, you could turn that ply box into a stone plinth quite easily as i described here

Thread: Sx3 mill
07/08/2019 07:01:51

Ketan does not stock the SX4 so won't have first hand experience of it. Also it used a knob to adjust speed not up/down buttons

What I wrote for the SX2.7 was as a direct request from Ketan as he had become aware of people (like yourself) using the e-stop for general stopping of the machine and that could do damage. He is away for a couple of days and possibly not watching the forum as much as he usually does.

Thread: First Lathe
06/08/2019 19:07:47

There is a Super 11 CD in the classifieds at the moment

Thread: Sx3 mill
06/08/2019 18:58:08

For anyone with one of the Sieg mills with push button speed adjustment I wrote this about the SX2.7 with input from Ketan and is basically what I said above.

Thread: Furrows on a milled edge
06/08/2019 18:36:01
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 06/08/2019 10:06:58:

The pulley is pressed onto the spindle - its position determines the end-float. It can be 'adjusted' by judicious use of press or more brutal techniques.

The pulley screws onto mine. If you take it off and slip a suitably sized bit of tube over the end of the shaft and then put the lot in a press or even a vice you can push the metal collar down further to take out any end float.

It would probably be possible to take it all apart and put say a 1mm pitch thread on the spindle and fit a couple of lock rings, this combined with a slightly looser collar would make it more easily adjusted.


Thread: First Lathe
06/08/2019 18:26:19

That does not really have a screwcutting gearbox.

It is the same as the Warco etc 280 & 290 models where you get a simple 1:2, 1:1. 2:1 gearbox that gives 3 pitches per change wheel setup eg if you set for 1mm pitch you can also get 0.5mm and 2mm without changing anything. You will have to change the gear train each time you want to go back to a fine feed.

I think SPG also did it at one time with the camlock spindle.

Thread: Furrows on a milled edge
06/08/2019 17:04:35

The quill is solid so you can't put an arbor up it. Or as I mentioned the shank of a long cutter.

Thread: Sx3 mill
06/08/2019 17:02:40

The SX2.7 has a similar arrangement to set the speed. I just press the stop button and then the start so it ramps upto the previous speed which seems fine.

Only use the emercency stop as just that not for general stopping of the machine.

Thread: Furrows on a milled edge
06/08/2019 13:22:18
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 06/08/2019 10:06:58:

............... making the attachment effectively useless for milling. ................

Depends what you define as useless, I made use of mine to do all the milling on this.

Also did the milling for a Stuart beam on it as well as about 50% on my minnie the remeainder being done with a vertical slide
05/08/2019 18:52:10

So I dusted off the milling attachment which has not seen the light of day for at least 20yrs and had a go.

I don't have a collet chuck for mine so used the 3-jaw. And used 1/4" material as no 5mm or 3/16 small enough.

Only 4-flute 4mm cutter I had was a coated carbide one with quite along shank which meant it stuck out far more than I would really like. First cut on the video is this cutter at 2500, 0.2mm DOC, some chatter and deflection which is due to the stick out and a worn machine an resulted in a fair amout coming off on the return cut.

Second cut is a 3-flute HSS FC-3 cutter at 2500rpm, 0.2mm DOC, less spring on the return cut due to lower stick out.

Final cut is the same cutter at 4000rpm, 0.1mm DOC which gave about the best finish.

Looking at the surface in a raking light there are some vertical lines but they can't be felt with a finger nail and would come out with a couple of draw file passes of fine emery or wet and dry wrapped around the file. I could probably play around and get a better finish with a bit more time, a tweak of the machine and say a 6mm cutter.


Edited By JasonB on 05/08/2019 18:53:21

Thread: Size of groove for O rings
05/08/2019 18:15:41

For model steam engines and IC engines you don't want to squash the ring as much as most commercial suppliers show

For a nominal 1/8" ring of 0.139" a width of 0.160" and depth of 0.132" will seal without excess friction

taken from Model Engineers handbook and also the same sizes can be found in Reeves paper catalogue.

Thread: Furrows on a milled edge
05/08/2019 12:34:13

I'll also see if I can rig mine up later if I still have some intact drive belts.

Are you using the milling attachment?

05/08/2019 12:02:51

Up the speed to 2500 or even 4000

You don't say how far you are cutting in on each pass but with a small 4mm cutter take say 0.25mm per pass, definately don't try to go full depth and full width. Swarf should be fine 5mm long needles not dust or chips.

Also are the furrows vertical across or horizontal along the edge

Edited By JasonB on 05/08/2019 12:04:21

05/08/2019 11:42:14

Are you cutting the full 5mm in one depth or several? 4-flute is OK.

What material, what material & dia is the cutter, speed, feed, what machine.????

Edited By JasonB on 05/08/2019 11:45:20

Thread: Fire door
05/08/2019 10:09:04

And a Fowler one in 2"

fire door.jpg

Thread: Collet Chucks out of true
04/08/2019 20:56:33

Iain, I wonder if some or all of the error you are getting is from incorrect fitting of the collet. looking at some of your photos it looks like the collet is sitting way to far back into the nut.

The collet should be snapped into the nut and then the two fitted to the chuck, our good friends ARC show how to do it here

Thread: Most difficult part first
04/08/2019 13:55:09

More often that not I will start making some of the smaller simple parts of the next engine while the previous one is being finished off as it beats twiddling your thumbs while the paint dries etc. This also seems to make a project come together faster as you can start to assemble the bigger more complex parts as they are made if all the small fixings, bushings, etc are ready to fit. It is also useful when I feel like a bit of workshop time after work to just pick a simple part or two that does not need too much thinking about or leaving the machines set up as a long machining sequence can't be completed in one sitting.

However sometimes I will tackle what I feel is the most testing part first particularly if it is one that I may be fabricating or cutting from solid where the original may have used castings. If I can't make the major part then I have not wasted time and materials on the small bits.

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