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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Indoor R/C Flight & a whole lot more
09/11/2019 20:35:48

This Video popped up on You-Tube, some quite amazing indoor flight, a bit more advanced than your old balsa and a rubber band!

More video of other subjects further down the thread

Edited By JasonB on 10/11/2019 07:41:27

Thread: Hello from Wyoming
09/11/2019 20:32:55

Welcome John, I take it that it was one of your mags that was featured in Model Engine Builder Magazine a few years back?

How to post photos here

Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019
09/11/2019 20:08:32

I turned a 5" length of 5/8" steel into a pile of swarf and an Conrod, bit of a change from the usual designs as is most of this engine.

Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?
09/11/2019 18:24:55

I suppose the problem with that is you can't easily touch up a tool part way through a job unless you take it out of the lathe and possibly chuck too if you are using that to hold an arbor.

Thread: Tramming The WM18 mill head
09/11/2019 17:17:02
Posted by ChrisB on 09/11/2019 16:52:58:

Some time ago I had tilted the head of my WM18 mill to cut some angles but when I was done and tried to tram the head back to normal I ran into problems.

If you got the problem from loosening the swivel then surely that is where the error is not in the column as you did not alter anything there.

As well as checking the tram you should check the head moves true and that the quill movement is true to the table

Thread: Drilling big holes (in tiles)
09/11/2019 16:28:43

Diamond coated holesaw will do it in a cordless. Cheap enough from the far east, I use Richon

Use it to drill a hole through some 6mm ply or MDF then hold that against the wall to guide the holesaw until it has started the cut, slow speed and keep wet, I just dip the end into a bucket every 20secs or so.

You don't really need it big enough for your hand, make a tool with a forked end to sit over the stopcock handle with a tommy bat on the opposite end. Plastic cap from a cardboard tube may suit to plug the hole.


Edited By JasonB on 09/11/2019 16:31:10

Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?
09/11/2019 16:23:39
Posted by Chris TickTock on 09/11/2019 13:52:10:

My only hesitation is in not understanding what they mean by idle speed stated as 2000-12000. Baring in mind the DC input for this motor has a range of 12v to 100 are they talking about the no load speed?

Yes slowest no load speed will be 2000rpm and I doubt you will drop much more when running as you won't be putting much pressure on the wheels for lapping so too fast for what you want.

Thread: piston rings
09/11/2019 16:04:47

That's the ones.

09/11/2019 13:10:00

Yep that's the engine I understood it to be, hence my suggestion for a ring to fit a 1.5" bore.

Forgot that one I'm working on at the moment uses a Viton Quad Ring so interesting to see how that goes.

Thread: Painting! There one day, gone the next!
09/11/2019 13:04:23

Particularly when using light colours the primer helps a lot to give the correct colour without excessive coats and you also get an uniform colour when spraying light coloured metal such as aluminium and darker iron where if you don't prime the CI darkens the look particularly on external edges where the film thickness is always at its lowest.

Must admit that unless I want a particular colour or finish the airbrush won't get used as rattle cans are easier and often more compatible with the clear fuel proofer I use on the IC engines as well as VHT for hot bits

Thread: piston rings
09/11/2019 10:11:59

The last three IC engines that I have done, two Alyn Foundry open crank engines and one of my own design have all had a single Viton O ring and they make very good compression and run well.

For your 1.5" bore engine I would go with a BS number 125 ring which is 3/32" nominal section and 1.5" nominal OD, actually 0.103" section and 1.505 OD. make the groove 0.125" wide and the bottom of the groove 1.304" dia. You will want a fine honed finish to the bore.

Thread: Painting! There one day, gone the next!
09/11/2019 08:02:17

Build it up in thinner layers, with acrylics it can also help to warm the part beforehand to speed up initial tack so stand on a radiator for an hour or so before you spray it.

Largest nozzle/needle you have so paint does not have to be thinned excessively. Use an acrylic thinner rather than water which will dry faster between coats.

Also can't see if you have primed it or not, for a Kermit green like that a white primer will give best results and need the least thickness of topcoat to give solid colour, grey for a darker green.

Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?
08/11/2019 12:59:37
Posted by Chris TickTock on 08/11/2019 12:17:39:
Posted by JasonB on 08/11/2019 11:39:19:

I'd just get a cheap or even slightly more expensive spindle and run that via a belt off your lathe motor so you have the vari speed.

I have never come across the head powered spindle. I take it pullies go on one end but what goes on the other? I am awaiting the arrival of the cutting disk and arbour before thinking again.


Pully goes on the end with the keyway and the other end has a tapered hole and external thread with closing nut to take ER16 collets which would grip a simple arbor for your wheels

Thread: Weir vertical feed pump model
08/11/2019 11:42:15

Probably Blackgates who now produce the Southworth range of pumps and model engines.

Page 94

Edited By JasonB on 08/11/2019 11:43:42

Thread: How does someone gauge the power of a DC or AC motor?
08/11/2019 11:39:19

I'd just get a cheap or even slightly more expensive spindle and run that via a belt off your lathe motor so you have the vari speed.

08/11/2019 07:34:29

His other thread on diamond grinding and lapping will give an idea of use

Chris can you post a link to these discs, I can't find any with google. Do sound a bit more like diamond coated discs for lapping stone and glass for lapidary rather than shapening.

Like others 400rpm sounds slow at that diameter if you are using these to shape your own tools they it will take forever. If they are just to tough up a previously shaped tool then may be OK and slow speed will not generate heat. At this speed the cutting speed won't be far off my Tormek but I would not use that for initial shaping, 67.6m/min on the Tormek vs. 60m/min on the little discs

By way of power the Tormek turns a 250mm wheel with 200W input power but drive system plays a big part in things.



Edited By JasonB on 08/11/2019 07:52:12

Thread: Pending
07/11/2019 16:07:33

Content to follow

Thread: Allchin 1.1.2" boiler
07/11/2019 11:41:19

No confusing here.

Th throatplate and ring can be made up as one and brazed so no problem with the higher temps affecting anything else so Brazing is OK , much like this one for a Fowler

dougs throatplate 1.jpg

dougs throatplate 2.jpg

dougs throatplate 3.jpg

You can then pop a couple of loose rivits or bronze screws in to the ring to hold it to the barrel while the joint is silver soldered, ditto the wrapper. The lower half of the barrel will need some tidy fitting to get a minimal gap where it joins the throatplate.

Which should allow for a good solder joint

Nothing wrong with changes to construction provided boiler inspector is happy with them though having seen the copper strip after I posted about brazing I can't see any need to deviate from the strip method.

Thread: S50 cylinder issue?
07/11/2019 10:03:18

Doubt it will affect performance. Could be filled with JB Weld before you hone the cylinder.

Also make sure you poke some thin wire down into the steam passages as they often have core sand left in them which won't do the engine much good.

Thread: Allchin 1.1.2" boiler
06/11/2019 13:01:28

The first line on the "silver soldering" section on page 15 gives a clue. "If you have the necessary heat, then these joints can be BRAZED........."

Would have been sifbronze brazed back in the day and still acceptable under certain codes. which gives a good strong fillet to the butt joint, there is no forward flange.

The drawing shows what looks like an 1/8" x 1/8" strip placed into the internal corner formed by barrel and throutplate which will give  alarger area for silver solder to form a strong joint.

As with all things boiler related talk to your boiler inspector to see what he will find acceptable, you may be able to use a grade of Silver solder that forms a good fillet or he may want some sort of flange.

Edited By JasonB on 06/11/2019 13:04:58

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