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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1
17/08/2019 20:31:21

next part for the Midget engine that could be done on the CNC were the rocker arms which were cut on the opposite ends of a bit of 1.5" x 0.25" flat steel bar.

First a clearing cut all round with 6mm 3-flute cutter at full depth plus 1.1mm to give the later 1mm R corner mill clearance, this then rises up and roughs out the top contour in 0.5mm steps.

Followed by a 4mm dia 4-flute 1mm R corner cutter working it's way down in 0.2mm steps on the flatter surfaces then 1mm as it gets to the vertical.

Side shot of the work so far.

Then a shot after it was sawn off the bar and held in machined jaws to bring down to 5mm thickness in the X3

Then back with the 4mm bit to contour the other side again held in the machined jaws

Finished parts after a lick with a needle file.

Thread: 4 jaw chuck axial allignment
17/08/2019 19:45:15

Provided your chuck face is true then this can help. useful when putting stock that is sawn on both ends into the 4-jaw.


Thread: Metal Cutting Power Saw
17/08/2019 18:04:32


Thread: Grinding your own lathe cutters
17/08/2019 13:47:04
Posted by Christopher judd on 17/08/2019 13:40:31:
brazed carbide will be better as it will be made more exactly than home ground HSS.


When you buy brazed carbide tools they come roughly shaped and will at a minimum need to be touche dup with a diamond stone, in teh long tem they will need freshening up with a bench grinder and that will need either a green grit or diamond wheel, the supplied wheels won't sharpen carbide.

So the brazed ones will be no more exact than HSS and as they are harder to shape and sharpen probably less exact

You then get into the quality of the bit of carbide that is brazed to the holder, plenty of cheap ones about for 50p but the carbide is not the same as ones for £20.

Edited By JasonB on 17/08/2019 13:50:22

17/08/2019 13:43:42

Do be careful looking at carbide depot and some other US sites as they use ANSI & ISO codes where just about all the information you are being given here is for ISO codes.

Yes There are decent inserts for the Sherline available, sherline even sell them but not worth buying from them as postage will be high.

Not sure what you mean by "rotate" but the CCMT, CCGT, DCGT etc that have been suggested can all be turned around in the holder to use the opposite corner and in the case of CC** inserts with an additional holder the other two 100deg corners can be used too.

Thread: Parting problem - Morse taper
17/08/2019 10:21:55

Depends a bit on the maker but the "hardened" taper is not so hard that it can't be cut with a hacksaw,

If a hacksaw won't touch it then or has difficulty you will need to anneal it as you won't be able to drill and tap it even if you have cut the end off.

Thread: Can Anyone Help Me to Identify This Very Old Boiler Please?
17/08/2019 10:13:42

Dave. I very much doubt that the item below the firehole is a gas inlet.

1. We already have a grate for coal

2. If you look closely at the last picture Hattie posted you can see the tell tale oval shaped hole of the mudhole and the slightly recessed mudlid behind it. we then have the cresent shaped bracket which is vertical so hard to see it's shape, nut and protruding stud.

3. If you look at the B&W section I posted further up the page you can see a similar arrangement with the large manhole at the top and several smaller mudholes including two just above the foundation ring, the third would have allowed access to the cross tube to clear any sediment from that, expect there is one for each cross tube out of sight.


Yes Clive the Manhole was also used during construction for access, things like inserting the carrot bolts that pass out through holes to secure a traction engine cylinder to the top of teh barrel.

Edited By JasonB on 17/08/2019 10:17:32

Thread: Which size drill bit
17/08/2019 07:34:14

For that sort of diameter these days I would drill 0.3mm smaller so something like a 6.8mm, under 1/4" I tend to go with 0.2mm smaller and have stub drills in these sizes eg 3.8, 4.8, 5.8 for metric which I find myself using mostly now , if imperial then I have 0.1mm increment jobber drills upto 10mm. Over that size I would drop 1/64th if I have the drill or find the nearest to it though if in the lathe I'm more inclinded to bore to finished size once things get to over 10mm.

Thread: Stuart Turner #1
16/08/2019 19:36:03

Very nice John, and a pleasant change from the usual greens, neat cladding too.

Thread: Velocette
16/08/2019 18:20:59


As you now have some photos in an album all you do while posting a reply is click the little black camera icon at teh top of the box you are typing in and select the image from there. Michael's link earlier also gives details

Thread: Can Anyone Help Me to Identify This Very Old Boiler Please?
16/08/2019 15:50:35
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 16/08/2019 15:32:43:


The 'mud-hole' is opened and the items to be treated are placed on a shelf inside. Once the mud-hole replaced the fire is lit. The spigot underneath the fire door may be a gas inlet, perhaps used to ignite a solid fuel with minimum fuss.

The mudhole is as I stated earlier the small access cover under the firebox door used to clear sediment, how you would get anything usefuul in there I don't know. It is also not a spigot.

If by mudhole you mean the larger manhole then that would very much depend on the gap between the top of the firebox and the top of the boiler. If the firebox is below the manhole then possible, if it is above then it is purely for cleaning the boiler.

The upper test cock is also above the level of the manhole so you could not fill to that then open the manhole unless you wanted wet feet

Hattie, are you able to measure the height inside the boiler so we can get an idea of the distance the inner top is to the outer top.

Typical man hole is the large one on the side of the boiler, mudholes are the small ones on the corners of teh firebox placed just above the foundation ring for clearing sediment


Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2019 15:53:27

Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2019 16:27:58

Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch
16/08/2019 15:43:31

Do any of the screws go through into the water space?

Thread: Should I begin with mild steel on lathe?
16/08/2019 15:40:04

The SCLCR code is

S Screw to retain insert

C Shape of insert

L Holder shape

C matches relief angle of insert

R Right Hand

You then get 06 06 which is a square 6mm x 6mm shank

Then say 100 which is the length of the tool.

Note the Glanze site uses the same ISO code for an 8mm shank holder for all their cutters

Further homework here

16/08/2019 15:32:48

The right hand holder is the most versatile and the same can be said of the CC** shaped inserts so any 6mm shank (don't really come in imperial) SCLCR holder will work as well as the JB cutting tools one linked to earlier you could try one from Glanze or ARC as they are all of a resonable quality for a reasonable price.

If you drop down the JB tools page you will see the CCGT inserts listed or these are reasonable quality in packs of two.

These inserts are not handed, they will fit left, right & neutral holders as well as boring bars. One holder will take all tip radius inserts of the same basic shape

Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2019 15:33:37

16/08/2019 15:05:42

Stresses will generally be the same for all grades between black and bright.

Silver steel is a specific type of carbon steel, having a certain composition, carbon percentage and ground finish. There are many other steels with different cabon contents and usually drawn or black finishes.

If you look at the price list from M-machine that Adrian took his link from and go down to about page 20 you will see that this supplier states the type and finish of their various steels so you know what you should be getting.

If you want to post the link to your local supplier I'm sure we can point you to what you need.


Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2019 15:11:12

16/08/2019 13:34:06

ENIA can come in both bright and black forms but if your supplier does not state the exact metal spec then goe elsewhere or ask. For practice get bright.

Bright bar is also known as cold rolled which means it goes through the shaping and sizing cold and the scale drops off. Black is known as hot rolled so shaped hot and a scale that is "black" forms as it cools. Bright can has some stresses in it but for turning don;t worry about that now.

Thread: Can Anyone Help Me to Identify This Very Old Boiler Please?
16/08/2019 13:24:29

Yes deffinately hollow.

The big plate at the top known as a "manhole" would give access for cleaning and inspection the structure. The smaller one at the bottom under the fire door is known as a "mudhole" and would have been used when cleaning to wash out any sediment (mud)

What is strange about your boiler is there is no apparent way to fill it as water or steam are drawn off, steam would usually have been taken from near the top so another threaded hole for a steam fitting would be usual.

Also the fact that most of the heat from the fire burning on the grate would go straight up the chimney, usually there are several more tubes containing water that would increase the heating area, as it is you just rely on the radiant heat from the fire. Alternatively there would be a lot of vertical tubes for the hot gasses to pass through surrounded by water acting a bit like the elements in a kettle.

Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2019 13:27:53

Thread: Flash player
16/08/2019 13:10:30

Just tried it and I get the same problem will let Neil and the back room boffins know.

I often get the message but this time clicking on the "get adobe Flashplayer" goes no further.

Thread: Should I begin with mild steel on lathe?
16/08/2019 12:13:47
Posted by Christopher judd on 16/08/2019 11:58:52n another forum a renowned craftsman and horologist only uses braxrd carbide for this type of work as he cannot get the precision required with inserts. This must mean almost no radius surely/ At my stage of the game it matters little but being aware of pitfalls in precion maching cannot be a bad jhing?

That would very much depend on how he ground his brazed carbide tools, some of mine have quite a large radius, certainly more that the corner radius found on most inserts.

16/08/2019 12:06:21

They are inserts MADE FOR CUTTING aluminium, not actually made OF IT

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