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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Allchin trunk stay
25/05/2019 16:55:52

Yes I would say that is the best way to fix it by riviting and then running silver solder around it and the rivits.

The location of the pad is given on the boiler drawing sheet 9, a bit of calculation and sketching should get the angle about right and the packing shown on sheet 6 will take up any slight error lengthways.

Bracket is not much more than a plate with the lower edge cut to follow the boiler, top suit the lug on thetrunk guide and something pleasing to the eye to join the two. the four holes are best spotted through from the angle and lug on assembly

Thread: Steam Engine Number One
25/05/2019 14:05:47

Threaded pod and locknut into threded cross head is a good way to go as it allows some adjustment so you can get the piston travel central of the cylinder. needs a good square thread so best screwcut and if you are using 12mm rod then go for a finer pitch than teh usual M12 coarse pitch. Other option is to turn a spigot say 10mm dia that is a good fit into a bored 10mm hole in the cross head and use a tapered cotter to pull the two together.

Piston end of the rod is best reduced in dia so you have a shoulder to bear against the piston, 8 or 10mm dia would do, part thread this but leave a section unthreaded that can locate in a bored hole in the piston. Piston is drilled and tapped to suit your thread then counterbored to suit the plain section of the spigot. Other side of piston is recessed for a lock nut so it does not hit the cylinder cover.

No need to go bashing your nuts, drop of thread lock will do and as suggested finish turn OD of piston when it is on the rod.

Drawing below shows what I have just describes click to view larger, scale to suit your engine.

piston rod detail 1.jpg

25/05/2019 13:12:01

Iain, what parentage is the insert that you are using in the cutter?

I bought a 50mm facemill a year or so back and my X3 did not like it one bit with poor finish and lots of really bad vibration shaking teh whole machine. A change to some better quality inserts which cost more than the whole facemill, arbour and 10 inserts solved the problem and it now works well.

Some of the cheap inserts don't have much in the way of a cutting edge which may be OK on a hefty machine that can power its way through but it is just like using a blunt cutter on our lighter machines.

25/05/2019 10:48:31

Well as i had mixed up some flux to photograph why stop there!

Piece of unknown steel 36 x 20 x 11 that already had an 8mm hole in it, just sawed it off a bar and cleaned up the flat faces on the belt sander. Piece of unknown 13mm bar turned to fit the hole.

dsc03618.jpg

Flux to a thick creamy consistancy (see later video) applied to hole and spigot, no punch marks use on this job. no other cleaning done

dsc03619.jpg

Push the two together and make sure there is a good fillet of solder around the job. Raised the work up off the vermiculite blocks which saves the flux sticking to the block and also allows heat under the large lump of steel. Solder won't take to the rusty bits of angle iron which are kept for this type of use.

dsc03620.jpg

See video for heating, use dthe same torch and burner as you, my 4bar regulator was fully open. I did use 42% solder you you may need 30secs or so to get upto 55% temps.

taken just after the torch was turned off you can see the flux starting to harden and the clean area of steel where it has flowed can easily be seen through it

dsc03621.jpg

After quenching, I don't often quench but a sit was just for a test no need to worry about distortion or hardening unknown metals, extent of solder flow easier to see.

dsc03623.jpg

After 20mins in the brick cleaner, the pink tinge is copper from the acid which is a couple of years old, it leaches out when you also use the pickle for copper/bronze and brass but cleans off easily enough.

dsc03624.jpg

dsc03627.jpg

Finally the proof of the pudding, a nice fillet of solder at the end of the spigot showing good penitration.

dsc03626.jpg

 

Not the best video as it is hard to hold the torch and camera in one hand while waving the solder about in the other. Job is hot enough for solder to flow at 1.36 into the video, a bit cold before that so allowing for the flux shots that is 1min 20secs to get upto heat and a similar volume of steel to yours.

 

Edited By JasonB on 25/05/2019 10:50:12

Thread: Beginners question (sorry) - why I am breaking my small centre drills?
25/05/2019 10:13:06

When I manage to break or wear out the colonial BS-0 one that I have been using for the last 4-5 years I'll bear that in mindsmiley

25/05/2019 07:34:17

There is no need to use a fixed steady to drill a long protruding shaft. Hold in the collet with a minimum amount sticking out, face and then drill. You can then pull out what length you need and bring up the tailstock.

Neil's comment about spot drills doing a better job should say at making a dimple to start a drill, you could think he is saying they do a better job at producing a recess for a ctr.

Thread: Getting rid of the garage door...........
24/05/2019 19:25:17

No real need to brick it up below the window. Most double glazing companies will do a full height unit with the bottom half fitted with an insulated panel much like you find on half glazed doors. Other option would be studwork infill to cill level with insulation, boarded on the inside and something simple like a UPVC cladding on the outside.

I have on of my double garage doors sealed up, just left the up and over door and sealed around the edges then built a stud wall behind, insulation between studs and ply skin. Simple to return to a garage if it gets sold.

Thread: Turning long slender arbors
24/05/2019 19:10:50

YYes that's the basic Idea. I tend to use a 10mm shank 55 degree insert tool which leaves a 5 degree clearance to the live ctr.

close cut1.jpg

You can also grind up some HSS to a similar shape. Also you don't need such a large section tool though depending on your toolpost it may clash with the tailstock Ctr unless you have a lot of tool sticking out in which case one of the Dickson extended tool holders comes in handy

close cut 2.jpg

Thread: suffolk dredging tractor
24/05/2019 18:44:51

No Joy. That article had some chat about the dredging arm but the rest was the ploughing engine boiler hence why it came up in a search.

Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please!
24/05/2019 17:39:50

Ah yes, you can go to 2tpi and no worries about stopping at the end as I should think things happen quite fast at those sort of pitchessmiley

Thread: Steam Engine Number One
24/05/2019 17:33:24

This is the stuff I get from my local builders merchant, Feb products should be easy enough to find.

Thread: Turning long slender arbors
24/05/2019 16:13:18

What tool are you using I can happily ctr drill and turn down to a 3/32" shaft and use a MT3 revolving ctr.

Thread: Minnie 1"
24/05/2019 15:52:03

Slow but safe.

Thread: Steam Engine Number One
24/05/2019 15:50:39

If you want to use punch marks then three evenly spaced ones will do the job.

Add as much powder to the water as you can before it won't dissolve any more though it will take a long time with such a mild acid, Brick and patio cleaner will do it in 1/2hr but don't forget you have something in there or it may get eaten. Just let the muck settle and decant the clear stuff, discard the bit in the bottom.

When you take it out of the pickle rinse in water and give a scrub with a small wire brush, dry and spray on a bit of WD40 straight away.

Flux will first bubble to a white throth, then becomes a sticky melted sugar consistency then it will flow as a clear liquid at which point you are upto temperature. I'll photograph a bit of mixed up flux over the weekend for you

Thread: What is the cheapest coal fired live steam locomotive?
24/05/2019 15:40:08

Small gauge garden railway coal fired is probably the cheapest but if you want it to pull you round in circles it will be found lacking but OK for radio control.

Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please!
24/05/2019 15:37:56

You need someone with a 4th axis CNC which should be able to mill a 2.5 pitch 2 start even if they don't know what one looks likedevil

Can be done good enough on a manual mill without gearing the table but very time consuming .

Thread: Alibre Atom 3D pdf manual free to MEW readers
24/05/2019 13:16:56

Have you got a link James, I've not seen one selling for £11.50

There is the readily available Atom 3D Exercise Manual but that is free

Thread: Fire bricks
23/05/2019 15:41:38

CuP are a good supplier to use and will happily answer any specific queries, also have a read of their "Best Brazing practice" along the top of the black bar on their website.

Thread: Bookpress 5tpi Square thread help please!
23/05/2019 13:29:55

Has the look of a double start to me.

Grind up a tool like a parting tool but with clearance so it does not rub on the helix of the thread. First thread I ever screwcut was a 1/4" x 16 sq

Thread: suffolk dredging tractor
23/05/2019 13:26:37

3672 sounds promising as it was a year or so after the series, think I have it but will have to look later.

You may get quite a few tests done for the additional cost of copper and silver solder over steel!

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