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Member postings for JasonB

Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: CARADOC - boiler dimensions please
19/07/2019 15:28:37

14" long x 8.5"OD x 1/4" wall steel for the main barrel. add 2.5" below for an ashpan and another 1" or so ontop for "smokebox" projection

21No 9/16 copper tubes

Edited By JasonB on 19/07/2019 15:29:57

Thread: Threads used on electrical brass fittings
19/07/2019 13:03:11

Are you sure it is not 1mm pitch, a lot of the smaller size electrical stuff is 1mm pitch eg M10x1

14mm is also quite close to 9/16 x 26 or 20 tpi

19/07/2019 12:38:54

PG conduit thread maybe

Thread: Cruise meeting crash
19/07/2019 11:24:23
Posted by David Colwill on 19/07/2019 10:45:03:

It is more a shame that there is no better and safer space available.

 

Easy enough to take your car on a track day if you want to drive it hard. Or joint a club, get a basic comp licence and do the odd hilclimb, sprint or speed test.

Edited By JasonB on 19/07/2019 11:26:20

Thread: Crystal Ball Gazing
19/07/2019 11:18:53
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/07/2019 10:03:41:

... still hoping that Neil will disclose and [unless he is its author] perhaps credit, the source of his graph.

.

Edit: The title of this thread seems increasingly appropriate

You don't need to look too closely at your balls to see where Neil got it from

Thread: Aldi bargain laser level
19/07/2019 07:27:30
Posted by Ian Johnson 1 on 19/07/2019 00:22:44:

Has anybody got any spare sloppy taps and dies? Preferably sloppy UNC though!

Ian, I thought that you already had a suitably sloppy tap and die going by what you said earlier, the 1/2" male and 5/8" female thread should be plenty sloppy enough. With the bonus that you also have the tools for a good firm fit fot the 5/8" male to 1/2" female option!

"Thanks Michael but there is no need to, it is a very sloppy M16 x 2 (which I haven't got any taps or dies for) so I'll re-cut the thread to something I have got. Something like 1/2"UNC / Whit,"

Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1
19/07/2019 07:15:45

That is a HSS 2-flute cutter with the steeper angle specifically for aluminium and not coated to help stop swarf sticking. It is also a long series one so could probably be run a bit harder if standard length. ARC do the carbide version too and that does come in standard and long length and like the HSS work well on brass and bronze too.

The only downside with the single flute cutters that I can think of is you have to feed at half the rate of a 2-flute if keeping the chip load and speed the same.

This is another of teh HSS 2-flute sin action on th emanual mill

Thread: Milling Problems
19/07/2019 07:07:58

1.Although it helps to have a rigid machine these cutters can work on light machines, I exchanged a few Wattsapp messages yesterday with someone happily using a 40mm facemill on a SX1LP. End mill eg 4-flute cutter would be the best of the three options you have but if it is from a similar source to the facemill and inserts then all bets are off.

2. No you need hotter than your oven about 875deg C and it needs to soak right through then cool slowly, On a limp like that I would say you may just have a harder skin not chilled a sthat mostly happens on thin castings and corners/edges very much like George's photo

3. Two videos at the end of this reply first is with the supplied inserts, see how the lamp vibrates, second is with better inserts on the same piece of iron, then steel and then aluminium all cut fine after changing inserts and making sure the head was running concentric to its loose fitting arbor

4. 1000rpm would be about right but I suggested the 500 as a conservative improvement also don't know what Rodney is able to run at.

When it's cutting right you will get small chips not dust so although your belly will be clean it will also get lots of little burn marks

Cost is about quality of the carbide and a keen edge.

 

Edited By JasonB on 19/07/2019 07:18:05

Thread: lost thread
18/07/2019 20:36:23

When I went to the Admin section there were three posts by Simon.

The one above and two shorter versions where he was obviously trying to post but they were not showing up as none had been approved.

I deleted the two shorter ones but the thread created by them is this one.

I then moved Simons fuller post from The thread Michael links to here hence it has the date/time Michael quotes

Have not seen one about Alibre though there is a slight chance a fellow moderator may have deleted it in error as the delete and approve tabs are close together and we don't get a "are you sure...." when a first post is deleted.

 

The "latest posts" list shows "moved" activity for a while, not sure of exact time maybe hourly correction. Same applies to removed adverts that is wht you may still see them listed but when clicked get a message about not available or being moderated when infact they have been deleted by a Mod.

Edited By JasonB on 18/07/2019 20:38:55

18/07/2019 17:51:48

Simon, if you read this can you post again, not sure what is going on but will look for your Alibre question. Or just ask it again in this thread

Thread: Piece of Cake
18/07/2019 17:41:40

Plasma, a few photos of a small crank being made here

Thread: Lanz tractor
18/07/2019 12:28:28

It's not ideal to machine oilite particularly a small internal bore so best to use bronze, SA660 would be the ideal choice and machines better than others.

It is possible to turn the outside of Oilite bushes with very sharp HSS or a **GT tip but reaming the inside will not give a good internal finish.

Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1
18/07/2019 06:53:48

Thank's Jeff, I just hope she does not want all the other pivots remade to match!

17/07/2019 20:56:34

Oh dear, the word is out that I have a new Machine. crying 2 Got a phone call last week to say my Niece had bought a second hand lamp to take to Uni and after repainting it had found the bracket that holds the shade had cracked and would my new toy tool be able to make a replacement?

It was posted to me and after drawing up a suitable replacement that CAM was done to produce the code and a pair of brackets cut from a bit of 2" x 0.5" 6082. All milling done with one of Ketan's 6mm HSS aluminium specific cutters. After cutting apart on the bandsaw the counterbores were added on the lathe at the same time as the waste was turned away. Think it will do the job.

Edited By JasonB on 17/07/2019 20:57:38

Thread: Accessing Digital Issues
17/07/2019 20:50:00

It's something at your end as I have just logged in as you and can view older issues. I tend to use Chrome but hopefully an Edge user may come up with a suggestion.

Thread: Milling Problems
17/07/2019 19:33:44

I'd say 90% chance of it being poor inserts and 10% hard casting.

can you post a good closeup of a used corner of an insert. My cheap 50mm facemill was transformed from junk to a usable tool buy changing inserts which cost more than the whole arbor/head and inserts from a well known far eastern selling site.

run at around 500rpm

Edited By JasonB on 17/07/2019 19:40:59

Thread: A little rant about Emojis and their kin
17/07/2019 13:15:48
Posted by Bazyle on 17/07/2019 12:47:34:

Can we release some ME related ones? (not that I can see a point in that).

Oh I don't know about that I'm sure there are a few useful ones.

Thread: Myford ML7 tailstock bore, and threading the barrel to fit a chuck
17/07/2019 06:58:25

Bumping this one up as it's a sad day when not one of all those Myford owners can provide a couple of measurements.

Must all be too busy talking about electric cars and navigation at sea!

Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1
16/07/2019 10:41:06

I suppose it depends on how you look at it,

For the manually machined engine crank cases I designed the parts and drew them up in 3D CAD so no difference there. Both design stages will take into account what you have available to make the part with and how you will use those items.

Granted you don't need to produce the G-code but you still need to plan a scheme or machining sequence for the type and order of the manual cuts. Also agree that to get the best out of the CNC machine you need to get feeds, speeds and type of cutting right especially as it is harder to alter things once you pres GO!

Fixtures were still needed to hold the parts as well as many setups on the lathe and mill so they could be manually machined. As for clashing I mentioned above that the tool needed to protrude a certain distance to prevent the collet hitting the work, this would be no different on the manual mill or making sure a boring bar is long enough on the lathe so you don't run the toolpost into the work though the manual methods may not result in such a big bang as it would if you got it wrong on the CNC

As for the waving scale there are a lot who would say doing something manually is a lot higher up the shaft than with CNC but may well have never actually tried it.

Thread: Aldi bargain laser level
16/07/2019 07:03:18

Enough.

Go to a sailing forum if you want to play sailors and your abreviations will be known and not anoy members here.

Keep to the subject about the tripod please.

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