Member postings for JasonB

Just a word of caution following Old Marts link. Do be very wary of the super cheap "face mills" on ebay etc, from personal experience they can leave a lot to be desired - poor fit on arbour leading to eccentric running, poor inserts that will shake you machine to bits and poorly seated inserts. I have posted video of the short comings here before.

Next MEW will have a review of what look to be similar items from ARC but a world of difference in quality for not a lot more cost.

If flycutting a hard casting you will want to use a left hand insert holder otherwise it will take the edge straight off the HSS bit.

I'd hold fire and see what the replacement is like with an old file as I suggested earlier.

You can then resurrect that cutter by grinding right across the end at an angle of 2-4 degrees, no need for fancy jigs or cutter grinders and use that on the casing. If it is soft you will be able to cut it OK and you have saved yourself a cutter, if hard you have not risked a new cutter.

Like Foggy for flat surfaces on CI I more often than not opt for insert cutters on the mill which will show what wonders are hiding within, if OK then smaller more detailed work can be done with HSS milling cutters or if a bit dodgy then Carbide ones where the larger insert cutters won't fit such as machining a narrow slot.

All very well saying force the tool in deep but when Stuarts give you a 1/64th or less machining allowance you don't have much choice.

A really chilled casting can even give carbide inserts a run for their money the good old **GT can come to your aid once again with the "sharper" edge being less likely to be pushed off of the work.

Ron you would be best with carbide as MDF is quite abrasive and will quickly wear the cutter. Either a 2-flute carbide milling cutter or router bit both run at top speed.

If you have not bought the MDF yet then get MR MDF (Moisture resistant) not so much for that property but it is almost twice the density of "standard" MDF so does not have such a fluffy edge when cut.

Probably easiest if you pop it back into the chuck and take another photo so we can get an idea of what you ware holding it by and how much work was sticking out.

Almost certainly a chilled casting though the photos are a bit small to see clearly.

Stuarts should be able to replace it but not the cutter, BTW mot much point in using ripper/roughing cutters for a job like this as you are buying a cutter which is meant to have it's side used for profiling not just the end for facing.

If you do get a new one then try it with an old file first as it too may be chilled, if the file just skids off it will be. heating to bright red and holding it the re for 10mins then allowing to cool slowly may help or leave in an open fire or wood burner overnight. Carbide tipped tools can help but that would only cover the milling not drilling and tapping.

Final option is to get a bit of 1/8" or 3mm flat steel and mill a decorative recess into that.

Not tried the RDG cutters and doubt I ever will but the ARC ones cope fine with a decent bit of cast iron, notice I'm using the edge not the end.

Edited By JasonB on 12/12/2019 10:26:17

One thing Hopper missed off is to clean the metal back to bright after hardening otherwise you won't be able to see the colours when tempering, otherwise I would do it exactly as he has described.

I moved it to David's new thread.

Strakes first while it is easy to get to the rivits

That's how they can do them at a reasonable cost, easy and quick to do a batch on a match plate in one go, far more labour intensive and therefore costly for them to be done as individual patterns.

Can you not take a silicon mould of your pattern halves and cast up say 6 resin copies and then stick them to a match board, add the runners and away you go.

2 or 3 positions depends on the size of the post, the smaller sizes only take two.

Could be a genuine post with aftermarket unmarked holders.

Its hardly surprising that the aftermarket ones vary in fit when even the drawings posted in this thread have differing dimensions

Of the 20plus holders I have only 4 are originals but they all seem to fit, the last few needed a bit of encouragement but at about £10 each fair enough. Anyone tried a Bison one on a Dickson post?

EKP

College Engineering

Macc

Noggin End

Mallard Metals

M-Machine

All do materials in short lengths and I have used them all at some time.

Far simpler way than Howard's is to look how many degrees on the handwheel, you are likely to find it is 5deg

360/5 =72 Simples.

Eddy you should be able to get 1/8BSP or G1/8 plugs from e-bay, just use ebay.com rather than ebay.ca which will tend to give mostly NPT results.

Pitch of the two threads is also different so unlikely to fit NPT is 27tpi and BSP is 28tpi

Sizes that you need to match if you are going to use an ARC dividing plate etc are.

approx 38mm spigot for plate to fit onto.

approx 10mm shaft for handle to fit onto

Approx 54mm over the two M5 fixings = 49mm ctrs

Edited By JasonB on 10/12/2019 19:24:10

KWIL (Ken) has not been such a regular visitor to the site lately but you stand more chance of him noticing if you start a new thread rather than tack it onto this one, Graham is also more likely to see it.

In the mean time there are a few photos in KWIL's album here I can only claim a little input in so much as he borrowed my 1/16" broack to cut the keyways

Edited By JasonB on 10/12/2019 19:13:26

plenty of those burners on e-bay, I have used them and the adaptor on several models about 10mm x 0.75 but not.

The other adaptor in the photo is for an "easy-click" cansiter and the side not shown has the thread for the regulator.

EDIT, thread is 7/16" UNEF,canister spec EN417

Edited By JasonB on 10/12/2019 17:30:04

It won't be for Propane

Butane or Butane mix camping or blowlamp canister, 100s on e-bay or decent DIY and camping shops.

Only we can do it

Just click the flag at the bottom of a post in the thread to report it and state the season why or PM one of us.