Member postings for JasonB

Its ALTiN coated, similar to the grey coating you get on some milling cutters. Bit of blurb about it here from the Kennametal website. I did not buy them specifically with that coating it's just that the size and price was right.

Some people get quite dreative with old gas bottles, quite fancy doing one of the se myself but would put a copper "boiler" inside the top half of the canister "shell" if running on steam.

Those working on Air conditioning, refrigeration etc do

Assuming it's for fabrication work and given your existing torch I would go with the lowest melting point alloy which is 455 and HT5 Flux as that will last longer if it takes a while to get upto heat.

The burner size is what governs the heating ability as that gives the wattage, your torch may be OK on smaller items but for something say the size of a Victoria cylinder you want 7-8 Kw which is what the usually standard supplied Sievert burnet puts out when run on Propane. If you do end up getting one of these bigger torches then you could go with 445 solder or even 430 which is cheaper but does take a bit more heating.

I would stay with HT 5 flux even with the bigger torch as it does last longer and will also work with stainless.

As for a source, CuP should have all you need in the way of solder and flux.

A simple cure for those that can't multitask is to slip the tool into the collet and bring the quill down until cutter rests on something and the right amount of tool is exposed then lock the quill. You can then tighten with two hands before unlocking the quill and allowing it to rise.

Sorry missed that you were looking at the "B" and not just the WM18. But you will have to swap between two pulley ratios unlike the SX3 that just has one belt position.

Can you give a more accurate ctr distance as you are on the border line between 10DP and MOD2.5

60mm (2.362" ) would work out OK with MOD 2.5

2.400" (60.91mm) would work out OK with 10DP

Edited By JasonB on 15/01/2021 17:14:20

Gene, you have to have a digital subscription and need to enter your 10digit subscriber number.

J

PS sorted out Georges formatting.

The two cast iron flywheels turned up today along with some barstock for other parts, I can see cast iron swarf featuring heavily in my upcoming workshop activity Good service from M-machine as only ordered yesterday.

Made a start on one of them getting the turning done prior to going on the CNC, I used the crank to gauge a nice firm push fit of the bore which should eliminate any tendency to wobble.

As Colin was asking about speeds for turning cast iron the other day I thought I would film the facing off of the excess material. 140mm dia, 425rpm, 0.75mm DOC, 0.075mm/rev feed. Quite reasonable chips and minimal dust, I find the 280 prefers to run a bit on the fast side with a slightly lighter cut rather than a slow backgear speed and deeper cut but the 0.75mm or 30thou DOC soon got rid of the waste material.

If you can't get the plug undone you can fill via one of the screw holes that hold the thread dial indicator to the carriage, one nearest the front being best option.

Yes, head tilts on the SX3.

As NDIY hints do check to see if the figures are input power or output, ARC are output. but as well as power you need to consider torque, the Brushless motor on the SX3 has more torque and can run as a direct belt drive from motor to spindle so is quiet and you don't have to change speed ranges. The brushed motor on the Warco does not have so much torque at low revs so there is a gearbox in the head that gives high and low range.

I can't see what retains the spring but since you can't do much about the co-efficient of friction between the two brass parts then the only other factor you can alter is the force holding them together. As you say you don't want to change the spring then can it be moved closer to the brass part so it applies more force.

If there is no way to move the spring what about annealing the spring, bending it more and then rehardening so once back in the same place it is applying more force.

Another option would be to introduce a material that has a higher co-efficient of friction in the form of a thin washer between the two brass parts.

In the case of the Sieg machines then if you can afford it go for the SX3. I've had a couple of members ask me the same in recent months and that is what I have suggested to them as it is a more marked step up in the the grunt and capacity stakes.

I've had a X3 which has a lot of the same parts since 2007 and not found the traditional gibs on X & Y to be an issue, maybe give then a tweak every couple of years and forget. The Z axis has a tapered gib anyway. What makes more difference is the fact the dovetails are further apart and longer than on the SX2.7 so the table is better supported. The column has a larger base and is a far more substantial casting both of which make it a lot more rigid than the 2.7. I also prefer the front handle to raise the head.

SX3 also has quite a bit more room between spindle and table , I have found the 2.7 wanting in that respect at times plus the table area is a lot greater as it is wider than the quite narrow one on the 2.7.

Have you looked at the spindle suppliers, seems they do ones made for the job.

Make sure it is low enough to stop cavitation

Very nicely done, look forward to seeing it in the aircraft though not sure I would want to risk all that work myself.

I'll lock this thread so everything stays in one place and move the first two posts.

Oops should have been this

You will no doubt need an acid pickle to clean the boiler at various stages during construction and that will also clean the rivits.

This is what should be happening

Check that the top half of the nut is moving down like the lower is moving up.

Also try it when the lathe is running slower and make sure the carriage lock is not done up.

Edited By JasonB on 13/01/2021 17:12:03