Member postings for JasonB

The problem with buying from an item that says "steel bar" is you just don't know what grade you are going to get and that is why you are getting mixed results. If you stick with adverts that say EN1A steel or 230M07 you will get a freecutting one.

Same with Aluminium alloys if it does not say you could get allsorts, look for 6082T6 or at least the 6082 bit

What you need to bear in mind is that the range of tools they sell on the website is far smaller than what is on their stand at the show, the Made in UK applies to the items on the website and then only the ones with the little flag next to them. Inserts quite often Kennametal if supplied with a holder.

jenny may well have the phone on divert to her mobile but probably won't have access to computer to check status of orders, then again may have a laptop with her.

Edited By JasonB on 19/10/2018 07:38:50

Likely busy packing and traveling to Midlands show where they were today. I've not had problems with them mail order or bought from shows

Can't be a bucket, where is the handle? bowl maybe

Rather than post them all again I have spread my photos from today over a few posts on MEM forum starting here I must have been slacking as a few locos slipped in there somehow

The throw away FC-3 type can be resharpened it is just the fact it is not economic for industry to do so and that is why they became known as throw away.

Links work OK for me.

I thought he would have been saying "get the sparks flying"

There is also the middle ground such as the basic YG-1 mills and the better quality ranges from the ME suppliers like ARC's premium range, certainly a whole lot better than some of the lesser no name ones and at a reasonable price and not the £100 you could pay for say a 10mm Dormer.

There is always the question of how "used" a cutter may be from an e-bay seller.

Two different articles being talked about here, Graham's was in ME and very good if a bit short and the castings looked a lot better than the ones in Andy's article which was in MEW

I tend to use the Americam Keo brand spotting drills, 1/8" one started that 0.3mm drill in the pic above OK. They have a smaller "flat" than other makes. Keo in the front. I only use Ctr drills where the 60deg seat is needed.

Now you need to work out a way that it will move to the left so you can get close enough for faceplate work

For a straight taper use a ctr at the head end, not held rigidly like in my photo. I purposely wanted a slight curve to give that conrod a "fish belly" also works well for classic columns.

You are less likely to get concave than convex, if there is any tendency for the work to deflect away from the tool it will end up convex. best to finish with some fine wet and dry backed up by some flat metal plate to get a fine finish that is nice and even along the length.

That angle works out nicely to 1:200 or 1:100 included which may have been why it was originally chosen. Though being old 1:96 may have been more likely how sure are you of the two diameters?

Edited By JasonB on 17/10/2018 07:39:02

Try some lump charcoal (not brickettes) start with some that has been soaked in paraffin then when the fire is burning well use dry.

Small air line directed up the chimney will act as a blower before you can make steam to use the boilers own one and an extension to the chimney often helps.

Why do you nee dto use the compound? Far better to offset the tailstock or better still use a boring head in the tailstock to offset.

That way you can use power feed for a nice constant cut and the angle is easily adjusted by moving the boring head a thou at a time.

Similar taper here 4mm to 3mm over 67mm length

Well it can look a bit rough to start with

And still a bit dull from roughing out

But comes up Ok with finishing cuts

Bit of shaping of the webs and it is as the earlier photo, in the engine below

Macc's flat is bright so will need heating first, M-Machines won't.

I've tried bright in the past and you can see it move before your eyes as you stitch drill out the waste. Since then I have used flat section or flame cut from plate.

Then again you could do a built up one from PGMS and a couple of slices of round EN1A and make the balance weights as one with the webs. Silver solder or even stick it together with Loctite and it will be good to go

What Neil says it is low tensile when compared to some of the higher carbon steel but better than others and more then strong enough for model open crank engines. Also a lot easier to get hold of in flat sections than EN1A

303 is not that common in flat which the OP wants unless he likes making a lot of swarf, 316 flat is easy enough to get hold of