Member postings for JasonB

One thing I will add about the same models being seen each year, Generally I do not notice this with competition or display entries by individuals. You do get the same thing on club stands even SMEE have the same models and the EDM machine has done the rounds quite a bit.

Alan one thing that has changed is the number any type of shows. When I first went to the ME show at Wembly it was run by MAP who's titles covered a far broader spectrum of model making. So you had Model Enineering, RC Models, Boat models, Figure and plastic models all under one roof and it was really the only large show and could get good foot fall for the 9 days it ran for.

Now with many publishing houses having a couple of titles each they all seem to want to put on shows so we now have MEX, Model boat show, model railway (small gauges) show, Plastic model shows, Tractor and plant model shows, RC events, the list just goes on and on.

Can a supplier who may have goods that all these branches of the hobby could use be expected to attend them all when the actual buying power of the hobbist is the same.

As to entries as mentioned earlier it is a drain on time if you need to make more than one visit to deliver and collect so unless you are retired or live within reasonable distance people won't be able to show. Gone are the days when models were collected and returned.

Staffing is another thing, take My Time Media as en example, most of the staff are part time and work from home and their time is already fully taken up by just getting the mag out each month/2 weeks so hard to organise an event. Different for Meridian as they are an events company nor a publishing one and have their own site which helps with a lot of the shows they put on there.

Also gone are the days where you had to send off some stamps for a poorly photocopied catalogue and then guess the postage when you sent off your check. This meant people would hold off making purchases as the show got near preferring to see and buy the goods at the show. Now it is so easy to see pictures of items and place an order and pay with a couple of clicks of the mouse and have the item arrive next day. So amount purchased at shows goes down.

Edited By JasonB on 23/10/2019 13:09:34

I have a Myford size Dickson on mine as that is what was on my previous lathe an dI had plenty of tool holders. If starting from scratch then the "boxford" size would be better

As there is not much load taken by these parts you could go up in tapping drill size by an extra 0.1mm to make life easier for the tap.

I blame you, that looks like steel

You may be lucky with the eccentric strap if you give the flat mating surfaces a light rum on some fine emery cloth laid on a flat surface, this will tighten the strap up a bit.

You should have equal steam of air going to both sides of the cylinder, sounds like the valve may not be central over the ports or the timing is off.

Any boring bar that takes CC** inserts will cut a flat bottom provide you have the height right

had my non inverter one for about 10 years now and still going strong.

Crate is not that much bigger than the overall machine size, end cover removed in this photo and crate is sitting on a pallet

E-bay or one of the dealers that sells old magazines. The later is usually the best option with whole volumes selling for about £2.

If you are in a club they may have a library with old issues you could borrow.

Edit, that was not hard to find on e-bay and part two here 

Edited By JasonB on 22/10/2019 07:56:28

I'll take you a close up photo tomorrow. The pin on the Emco is tapered so may have worn the black off around the holes too

It's only the black coating that has come off, no sign of wear in the metal, more a sign of me not pulling back against the pin's spring enough than a problem.

Also compared to the vast number of 5C spin indexers in use the plates are far less "flimsy" being of similar thickness but much smaller diameter. Again like the 5C indexers the holes are through holes but just covered by the scale disc in both cases the pin does not go full depth into the hole, think more like the pin on a dividing head's arm.

As Emgee says the back have different mumbers of holes for indexing.

Though the fronts only have angular graduations not hole numbers.

Not sure what is disappointing about the U3 but having one edge that fits directly to the lathe bed was often usefull to me in the past as were the other mounting options eg the two cap heads that can be seen allow it to fit the cross slide. As well as the ability to set it to any angle as shown on the face of the wheels not just what was covered by the index holes. having the standard M14 x 1 spindle nose is also a big improvement as you can easily fit any chucks or face plate with work left in them, with the SL you would have to take work off of it to get at the 3 mounting screws if you wanted to index an part that had been turned on the faceplate. With the U3 just unscrew from lathe spindle and screw onto indexer.

Edited By JasonB on 21/10/2019 17:47:39

Baz, I know the feeling having used a similar amount of Super Unleaded getting there and back.

I've done the two trip method with Sandown, Brooklands and Guildford all of which are about an hour away so not too bad particularly Guildford as you used to be able to drop off models early before the show opened to the public rather than the day before I would not have thought the logistics too hard for the organisers to accept 1 day exhibits which would encourage more people to display their models.

But if you have a mobile shed why not take that and stay up there, I know at least one exhibitor who did that, Mike Cole of the IC Engine Builders Group found a cheap place to park locally and stayed for the duration.

Jon, there is no problem displaying individual or even 2 or 3 models. You simply enter them in the competition or display class. Would need to attend twice to drop off and collect at the minimum but no need to attend all days.

Why won't your drill touch the silver steel? Did you quench it straight after soldering as that may have hardened it, if so just heat up and allow to cool slowly

The crankshaft started out as a length of EN8 steel that was faced to length and ctr drilled for the throw and shaft centers before milling out most of the waste around the pin which is a lot faster and easier than turning it away. I left it for a week to settle after this but it did nor show any signs of having moved.

Then the pin and inner webs were turned, I used a boring bar for the left hand web and an HSS knife tool for the right, the pin was completed with a modified parting tool that has had the middle of the cutting edge ground away with a Dremel which stops any chatter as the tool is worked from side to side as a fine cut is put on.

I then rough turned the ends down using a holder that takes the "other two" corners of a CCMT insert while holding the web in the chuck.

Final finishing was done between centers using a DCMT insert which again helps reduce chatter and will also take off a fine cut.

I also turned and rough bored the flywheel at this stage but more of that later.

Last jobs for the lathe were to screwcut a thread on the end and then cut the taper for the flywheel, doing it at the chuck end makes it easy to bore the flywheel at the same topslide setting.

Finally back to the mill to shape the webs to give some counterbalance.

Also interesting to see who has the biggest adverts on this forum, without them you would not have anywhere to moan. Without that income there may also be no mag let alone forum.

Any company can do the sums and see what gives the best return for their money, they may choose to have banner adds at the top of the page or a prominent one top right.

They may invest a considerable amount of money into sponsoring beginners articles in the mags or spend time explaining queries via the forum.

They may only supply the hobby as part of their client base and would risk not being able to serve the commercial side while at a show

Or they may go to a show.

Edited By JasonB on 20/10/2019 13:18:19

Stainless OK for grate and ashpan.

Bolts should be fine provided there is not too much play in the hornplate holes, though I doubt you will be riding behind the engine that much which can see the fixings start to fret if there is play.

Edited By JasonB on 20/10/2019 06:57:47

Ron, it's a fairly basic barrel carb and by having the jar lid as part of the barrel/spray bar assembly the lid and therefor the jar act just like a lever would on a RC model carb, I could also add a thin lever between lid and barrel if I wanted.

Couple of pics with the actual body removed so you can see the assembled parts that all rotate as one.

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