Member postings for JasonB

I have a feeling it is used to mount the cylinder heads (via valve holes) for one or more machining operations.

That's it. The intermittant cut should not be an issue and if you had the "spacers" a little closer together in your sketch then the final cuts will be constant.

A loose packer at either end will spread the load rather than push against the central soldered in packers, infacct arranged that way you could use superglue rather than solder as then it is only a case of stopping the bits sliding about when initially clamping.

You don't need a full strip in the middle so short bits will do or anything that could be cut to 1/2" long.

Don't forget to poke some fuse wire down the cast steam passages as they are often still full of core sand and you don't want to go spreading that over your machines

There are a few phone apps that will act as a trip. Basically hit the trip at a junction and the phone's GPS will total up the distance then wifey just needs to do the maths by subtracting the trip distance from the road book distances and tell you how far to next junction. You may be able to enter the distances and get it to count down which would make it even simpler. look for "rally trip apps"

Edit, beaten to it, should have given a shorter answer

Edited By JasonB on 18/06/2021 20:36:16

The feed shaft really only reduces wear on the lead screw as then that is kept just for screwcutting.

Regarding speed changing on the mills then variable speed is faster than belt/pulley or gears and usually quieter too. Slight downside can be a loss of torque at low speeds but cuts can be kept shallow and feed rates upped if spindle speed is kept in the motors comfort zone so not much difference in overall machining time.

Done.

For future ref if anyone duplicate posts they can click the "Report" tab which will bring it to the Mods attention a bit quicker as another forum member did in this case.

Edited By JasonB on 18/06/2021 06:53:25

I just tighten the tap wrench onto the shank of the tap then any guide will reach, also if tap get stoo tight the wrench will hopefully slip before the tap breaks.

How to post images

Best to place a for sale add in the classifieds. If you click "classifieds" in the black bar towards the top of the page you will then see "place an add" towards the right.

Atom should do all of those with the possible exception of surface finishes, colour, transparency and reflection can be done but that's about it. I just stick it into F360 (free) if I want to do a better rendering.

Allow sufficient length to reverse the work for a finish facing cut to clean up the sawn part as well as the parted surface as finish is seldom as good and if dia of work is large your 1mm tool may well wander to one side or the other

Also nothing wrong with using a hacksaw for all the cut or the last bit once the tailstock ctr has been removed.

I use Alibre Design Pro but their ATOM3D would give you most of the functions for less outlay. You can pay a one off fee or an additional yearly sub to get latest updates etc.

Common sense, if by doing it the way I suggested the leaf of the hinge becomes 1.5mm thick (60% of core sandwich) then that will be stronger than your original 1.25mm (50% of core sandwich)

However I would say whatever the proportions of the hinge that will not be your weak point. Most likely to be where you have a single thickness of material be that 1.5 or 1mm as shown with the blue arrow. That's if the bond between hinge and board does not fail first

That will be the No84 then Nicely done and look forward to the video when the painting is complete.

If you put the thicker of the two sheets towards the inside edges then you will not loose any strength as the "leaves" of the hinge will still be 1.5mm. Infact they will be stronger than if they had been 1.3mm.

Edited By JasonB on 15/06/2021 07:05:47

Can you make the core from one layer each of 1.0mm and 1.5mm which with the other items would give the total you desire.

Or if you want to make sure the structure is balanced then two of the 1.0mm with something 0.5mm in the middle of the sandwich.

Just use the drill bit that you drilled the initial hole with to spot the location onto the other part as Ramon describes above. This was the standard way to do it before many makers got mills and DROs. Run it slowly in your drill or even turn by hand if you just want a mark to pick up. You can also make up your own transfer punched by turning a point onto a suitable diameter, probably have to do that anyway as bought sets tend to be 1/32" or 0.5mm increments so won't be a good fit in holes for BA fixings

Don't eyeball.

Edited By JasonB on 14/06/2021 08:26:05

Let a moderator know your old username and the password can be reset. Best done by clicking "message member" just under this reply box.

Formica, Decamel and all the other similar products are "High Pressure Laminates" HPL