Member postings for JasonB

Step drill would be another option if you can live with the inaccuracies of a drilled hole. But I would still opt for the boring head, if you get then rough laser cut to 23 or 23.5mm it's just one light cut to clean up the hole to exact size.

Boring head, that will allow you to fine tune the fit.

Or a 24mm Rotabroach cutter in a 19mm MT3 collet

Edited By JasonB on 12/04/2021 14:56:56

Run it off a cheap recon XP machine from Ebay as quite a few Mach3 users do. Just do your CAD & CAM on an up to date machine and transfer the file to the XP with a USB stick.

With spoke threads being rolled rather than cut I would have thought there should be less of a risk

As for Chrome, it was very popular on forks and the rear triangle of all quality bicycles before more exotics came along

When I used to ride my MTB I had aluminium nuts on the titanium skewers, think they were only M5 thread but can't remember what the ali was, probably a 7000series

Plenty of Titanium framed bicycles around too as well as aluminium wheel spindles (On Mountain bikes too Neil)

Edited By JasonB on 12/04/2021 07:49:13

I don't round mine.

Yes once you are close give it a lick with the diamond so it's good and sharp for the last couple of cuts.

From Jon's earlier posts I think it's for a push bike.

Yes you can do it like single point cutting a bevel gear, just rotating the work in a vertical rotary table with a Vee pointed cutter held in a shaft in the spindle.

Also worth noting that cycle "track nuts" are actually in two parts with the knurled "washer" captive on the nut so you don't chew up the dropouts when turning the nut, the knurl is there to stop the axle shifting under side load from the chain not to stop the nut coming undone.

Well I had a change of plan on the colour as the cream I had thought of using is no longer available so found a tin of something suitable in the back of a draw and sprayed that on then stuck it on a base.

The eagle eyed will see that I have added a bit of extra detail to the cylinder and valve chest as well as getting rid of the bolt together eccentric rod, apart from that it's fairly stock except for the corrected dimensions which will hopefully follow soon.

Yes you want the top face sloping down slightly from the cutting edge as shown in green but make sure the red clearance angle is not lost as you rotate it, you want both to be about 5degrees

I've not tried it on stainless but would think it would need a lot of pressure applied to it.

Hole forming here

Looks about right.

Just make sure that the bottom of the tool arrowed in blue does not rub against the edge of the hole

Its the arrowed edge that does the cutting and that's the one you could give a run to with a diamond slip

Best to avoid using teh side of teh wheel if you can

With those requirements a vertical saw designed for metal will have a decent throat width for the plate and if you make up a sled then round and section can be cut safely.

I use my old woodworking bandsaw for nonferrous sheet/plate and before getting the Femi it wa salso used for bar, with a bimetal HHS blade at woodworking speeds it cut OK, this is 3" square 6082 but it would be too fast for steel.

Take a bog standard knurling tool and set the height either much lower or higher than usual, flip the end up/down so only one wheel is engaged and feed into the slowly rotating face.

Alternative is to set up in the mill and cut two sets of Vee Grooves at 90deg to each other into the face.

What are you cutting with?

I prefer to ctr drill with a very small Ctr Drill and use tailstock support so the shaft can be turned in one go. I use a DCGT insert with 0.2mm tip radius and that allows fine cuts to be taken without deflecting the work. If that does not work then polish to finish with fine emery backed by a block.

You can leave extra length on the stem if needed for clearance and to take the hole then cut off and face to length.

I've only silver soldered larger valves but doing it all at one setting from soliid metal gets everything concentric

You can also scroll down the page until you see "latest for sale adds" in the righthand column, click "More for sale adds" and the page that comes up has "place an add" top right.

The threads are ME series 1/4" x 32, 3/16" x 32 and 5/32 x 40 if fitting drain cocks and 1/4" x 32 & 5/16" x 26 for teh glands

You can tap what you like unless you intend to use commercial steam fittings which will have an ME thread if sourced in the UK. If you want to make your own fittings then no problem as you will be doing both male and female threads.

valve gland could be done with 0BA but you would need something larger for the piston rod gland M8 x 1 metric or the specified 5/16 x 26 or 5/16 x 32ME is another option.

Should be fine for engraving as the router has a decent max speed and you are not limited by having something for the pantograph to follow and if engraving to depth can get nice angled internal corners not rounded due to a round cutter.

Can't give an official answer but it's only a couple more clicks to snip the image of the page and print to paper or PDF. from either Pocketmags or website archive.

John I have stayed with Alibre for my drawing and as said just export a STEP file which I then open up in F360, goto manufacture and take it from there. You could try a sample part in each and see which you prefer.

Have a look at this and the next 2 videos by Lars which are a good way to get a basic understanding of F360's CAM, there have been slight changes to the layout since they were made but more or less the same.

When I did look into Meshcam I did get the feeling it was aimed more at the "maker" with a gantry router than at more engineering based users with a mill so you may get on OK with it.

Each maker of software tend to call things a slightly different name so no book will give the exact description. Probably best to see if there are some Meshcam videos on the net and watch them. When I looked at the trial of Meshcam I found it quite limited and basic so stuck with F360's CAM which has a lot of info out there and even just hovering your mouse over the various machining stratedgies gives an explanation of what they are.

Adaptive clearing and roughing cuts are an efficient way to remove the bulk of the material with the CAM working out the shortest route and this will tend to leave a "stepped" surface depending on whet you set the stepover and step down at. Following that you pick one of many finishing paths depending on the shape, angle of slope etc of the surface, I think Meshcam was limited to various parallel passes.