Member postings for JasonB

I'm afraid I can't offer you any advice Ian as although the milling vice I purchased 11yrs ago falls within your size requirements it only currently retails at about 50% of the minimum you want to spend so anything I suggest would be pure speculation based on what I can see on the net.

The vice I do have has been perfectly adequate for my needs and many engines have been made with it

Look forward to seeing the actual item.

In the mean time I have just dusted these off which I think are similar to what you describe, they are the two parts that make up the winding drum for a 2" Superba Ploughing engine and are about 12" dia. The webs are all cleanly cast with a very slight draft angle and I would say 5/32" thick on average.

The alternative would be to get them laser cut or mill them yourself from steel sheet and stick them together a bit like the one at the bottom of this page

Edited By JasonB on 18/08/2018 14:02:25

I have inquired with one of the motor boys who does have castings for quite a lot of the old engines as well as being the custodian of many of Westbury's own engines but it is not one he has castings for.

One thing you won'tl get with a welded joint that you will with a screwed one is slipping of the two parts, Most trussed structured get their strength from the fact the two members can't "slip" against each other when the bending load is applied. So any excess clearance in your bolt holes will allow movement.

May need some fitted dowels to stop any movement in the plate/50mm pole joint and the same will apply to your 30mm bracing tubes as any movement in the joints will allow your tower to flex..

Edited By JasonB on 18/08/2018 07:47:53

Edited By JasonB on 18/08/2018 07:48:45

Came back from the Bristol show only to find these had made their way into my boot

3/16" should be OK in iron, have you got a sketch of the actual part ?

But you can't buy it online from them - shop only purchase which seems to be the same with other dealers.

Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2018 18:56:55

I've just plumbed an RC "klunk" tank the opposite way round when needed but a nice little jam jar does look mor ethe part for display.

Have a look at this for how to add a photo of your engine

If you have a local Model Technics stockist they should be able to add it to their next order if they don't actually keep it.

Turn it over the top of the sleeper and tack it down. If you are not building the walls off the sleeper then trim it off once concrete set. If you are building off the sleeper then leave in place and put DPC on top.

If you try to cut it flush before concreting it will more than likely move down with weight of concrete.

Where do the walls actually come as may affect where you turn it up.

Edited By JasonB on 16/08/2018 07:01:12

Dave, are you having a job getting any closer to the headstock? Looks like you have the topslide fully extended to the left and quite a lot of tool overhang. If the problem is partly down to movement in the ways then getting the overhang as small as possible will help.

As I suggested it I did notice the results, I'd rather look at the figures 0.23 down to 0.08 which is somewhat better than half as Dave said in subsequent posts. Still about another 30% to chase down though.

Might also be worth checking the faceplate with a straight edge and feeler gauges and if that is good mount it up and run the DTI along that with the base mounted on the cross slide. I'm assuming Dave has not skimmed his.

Oh in that case I may be in with a chance as after 4 pages my suggestion is the only one that has seen an improvement and as that was 65% anything else won't stand a chance

Those look like skamolex blocks and sheet to me, very good insulator and tends to throw the heat back at the work.

I think I would be worried about the lack of parent metal left if putting an M6 insert into 8mm thick material. A Helicoil would be about 7.3mm OD and other inserts even more, that leaves only 0.35mm or less of metal either side of the thread.

HPC gears are 20pa not the 14.5pa used on Myfords. 

Surprising what comes up when you put 47T Myford gear into Google. Home and Workshop also usually have a good selection of "odd" Myford gears"

Edited By JasonB on 15/08/2018 07:38:19

I've run a couple of my engines on quickly knocked up vapour carbs when I was having flooding problems did not even think of blowback. Seen plenty of other engines running with them and all seem OK. The propane ones are more likely to singe your eyebrows!

Baz, I think Diane and Martin are already there, couple of engine build articles I can think of that were previously in Maschinen im Modellbau which is a German ME mag, shame I had already seen them but the english text was useful.

Mark, Put it here in the wanted classifieds not the help and assistance thread.

Going by the cover of 271 I though Neil had already started on the repeats