Member postings for JasonB

The fact that they cost less than a fiver makes it uneconomical for industry to sharpen them so more cost effective to replace hence the FC-3 type are known as throw away. I sharpened some on the ARC EMG-12 when I had it for test.

Just to add to Mike's comment, this particular link was a bit borderline so that is why I went to the trouble of posting the image so at least the thread could continue.

Ketan gives details here

I don't recall them ever doing BA or ME and they have always tended to be more Metrically orientated.

This is one of the few occasions when I would suggest drilling the cleading first and then spotting through the hole positions onto the cylinder or simply clamp the cleading around the cylinder and drill tapping size right though both before tapping the casting and opening up the other holes.

Comes down by about 1/3rd for a bearing nut, Rego Fix give 100 plain nut and 65 bearing nut for the same dia bit in an ER32

As most of us don't take cuts that are anything like as heavy as industrial users do there is less need for us to use long handled torque wrenches and hefty bench mounted fixtures to hold the chucks in while tightening. Though there will be a lot of variation between what individuals can apply given the same pair of spanners which may be why some on here say ER collets let tools slip while others including myself have never had a problem..

Michael, have you tried Nominal size only ER Collets rather than collapsible ones

Edited By JasonB on 28/09/2020 18:29:24

I would not have thought a SG Iron rod would break like a grey iron one.

The experiment should work with say 25mm long rod which would not be hard to turn from some sliced up larger good quality grade 260 bar

I did not have any quality problems with the castings for my Fowler from MJ but it is quite a bit bigger. This is mine with the showman's version of the GMT behind

I think that is about it as far as reliable supply of castings go, next up would be the 2" Gold Medal Burrell Tractor at 28" long. The Ruston Proctor SD Light comes out about 24" but supply may be problematic.

Also make good tweezers for pulling out metal splinters

I've never seen 3/16" sash weights and not seen CI bar sold in smaller than 25mm

For those that would want to hammer their handles the same style of vice that Blue Healer is looking at can be had with all the spheroids needed for an extra £20 or so for an SG Iron bodied version. Maybe it's the 90% of buyers who don't want to pay the extra who complain when they bust the bargain basement the vice.

But hopefully the lighter nature of these mills means they use far smaller cutters so should not need the vice hammering closed unlike a big horizontal with a slab cutter would.

That turned out very nicely and runs well too.

With a reasonable quality facemill the inserts will not be a problem to fit, just screw em in. very cheap ones can have loose fitting pockets.

Provided you are cutting around the right speed size won't make much difference and unless you have a means to sharpen then its more economic t wear and replace a 6mm one than a 12mm one

Probably best to check the whole lathe over for ware as if the bearings have gone that far things like bed and tailstock may also need work which could end up costing a lot more than lathe would be worth financially.

The basic design is fine but with the swivel base may swamp a minimill though they are not needed very often.

The real question is what factory did it come out of and what's the quality like. If a decent source then they work fine, I use a similar looking 80mm one on my CNC but there are also some that are not made so well depending on source. It's only a few dollars less than the ones from mainland companies like Ausee so is it worth taking the risk on quality.

Now that is a good runner and looker too, usually I'm not keen on the barstock and cap screw look but you have executed it very nicely particularly with those recessed heads..

I also like the easy way that the lever over rides the governor latch while the engine is running.

Nick was asking in 2016, hopefully he has bought something by now.

It is most likely bearings but a badly bell mouthed chuck could also be allowing some movement of the bar that is why it is best to remove the check from the equation at this stage and put the bar into the spindle's socket