Member postings for JasonB

As most on here will be using a computer to post it is also very easy to just draw out what you need, print and stick it to your material. No need for fancy CAD, something like Windows Paint will do ellipses

Well at least the Gout one you had an idea of what it was about from the title so could be avoided. With a title of "shingle bells" it could have been about what aggregate to use for a shed base or bell making as it was under general questions.

If this is turning into a whats my ailment forum can members at least post in the "midden Tea Room" section to make it easier for the minority who come here for engineering to avoid.

I will move this thread there.

J

Edited By JasonB on 17/07/2018 11:02:51

Good luck with that now you have pulled the machine apart, may just have needed a slight adjustment of the gib strips that hold the carrage to the bed.

Edited By JasonB on 16/07/2018 20:21:17

Must pay more attention

This shows one being done as per Dave's sketch

Well those sizes seem to fit together quite nicely and will come out of 7/8" (22.2mm) stock

This first picture shows part of my construction drawing, the red line is the outline of the gland made up from two 19mm radius arcs (38mm dia circles) and the ends rounded to 3.6mm radius. You hopefully can just see a dashed green line that almost matches the red outline which is actually a true ellipse so the made up one comes close enough for most things. Click on all pictures and they should come up larger.

I added a boss if you need one and this is what the finished flange will look like

For the Jig a piece of bar  38mm diameter or larger, I have shown 38 as it matched the curve of the side of the gland and is also more or less 1.5" diameter which you may have to hand. Length is not critical but enough to hold so 20mm plus. Face off then mark out and drill and tap two holes 7BA in the positions shown. replace in chuck and skim down the end to 38mm dia and zero the handwheel dial. Screw on the flange and turn one side to the zero setting then reverse it round and do the other side

The flange is just turned 22mm round and the two holes drilled and will take on the shape as you turn it on the jig. Finally file the ends round using filing buttons.

And this is the drawing to work to PDF to download or just use this image

Edited By JasonB on 16/07/2018 19:13:14

Edited By JasonB on 16/07/2018 19:16:13

Mine is 4" compacted hardcore and approx 4" concrete with a sheet of A142 mesh, not moved for the last 25yrs. 2.8m x 4.9m. Topsoil dig out and onto the clay.

Keith, if you can give the the hole size and spacing I'll sketch it out for you so you know the dia of the jig and how far out from the middle the holes need to be.

Brass will be fine as it is just going to be in contact with air or steam not the hot water which can attack brass.

From the digital version

Page 44 is about using screws to clean threads

page 45 is a short review of an airbrush and compressor

Page 46(not numbered) is an advert from the Co that supplied the airbrush

Page 47 is the start of the Unimat indexing head.

Given your interest in traction engines maybe the "Wells" traction engine which was used as a schools project would have more interest for you. I did use some simple castings that were cast at school but these could be made from solid or fabricated and the drawings are in metric. You should be able to download from this post and the casting pattern drawings from this one. You may need to join the forum to see the attached PDFs.

Also search the net for "Wells traction engine" or "schools traction engine" to see what it is like and find a couple of build threads

Edited By JasonB on 16/07/2018 08:26:47

I have done quite a few small wooden ellipses using the same principal that Michael's link to the trend jig uses, you just need a strip of wood or even the edge of a bit of paper, just mark 1/2 of each axis and then move your rod around and mark the edge of the elipse.

Since I have had CAD I tend to use that to draw a suitable ellipse and then produce a set of co-ordinates, for big things like dining tables I tend to just make a jig of 1/4 of the ellipse from say 6mm MDF then use that to mark out and finally guide a router.

Similar can be done for smaller metal ones just by drawing a second ellipse outside the first that is larger by half the diameter of your cutter, again you only need to work out for 1/4 of the shape and simply adjust the +/-valve . Plunge at each co-ordinate and the finish with a file. Depending on spacing and dia of cutter you can leave yourself more or less filing as you prefer.

The only downside to the method Frances describes is that the sides of the resulting ellipse are not perpendicular to the face. Perfect method if you want to make a butterfly valve but not for something like a gland.

That jig does not give a true ellipse, it just cuts the two sides of the flange to a radius and then you usually round the ends with a file though they could be milled.

Similar can also be done with a boring head on the mill.

What size ellipse do you want, what material etc as there are ways to cut true ellipses but would be fiddly on something as small as a gland

Edited By JasonB on 15/07/2018 19:35:51

Apart from winding up the speed a bit I don't do anything special for that size drill in any metal. Last steam engine I did had about 20 M1.6 holes for which I drilled 1.2mm in a mixture of steel, iron, aluminium, brass and bronze and a couple of 0.8mm cross holes in steel pins for 1/32" split pins.

Don't think I have ever stoned a bit for brass/bronze just use the same I would for anything else.

If you have already broken that many drills there is something seriously wrong with your methods or the drill bits you are using. Try a decent bit such as Dormer A002 split points or the shorter A022 Stub Length ones.

Not Really. From Ross's earlier threads he was just posting to help anyone who like him was looking for castings to make some of the projects in the books by passing on details as the old supplier no longer does them.

I think with such a small demand and the supplier not having those specific patterns it was unlikely to be cost effective to make new patterns as it would take too long to recover the costs through the sale of castings. He had the flywheel castings already so they were more viable.

The 3/4" thread is likely to be the thread ontop of the ram, though thinking again it is probably the pitch that is 3/4" on about a 1 3/4" dia

Bottom of ram should be 1" bore so you put a round shank tool into it and retain with a couple of screws

Edited By JasonB on 15/07/2018 13:23:57

And with one of the Judges catch phrases being "It will Kill" you wonder why it is allowed to be screened over here? Some of what they produce on the show makes a Zombie knife look like it was meant for butter. Look on the bright side the postal ban may bring a few more people into metal working as the last time I look it was OK to post an anvil and big hammer!

There was also the one a couple of years ago on the gunsmiths called American Guns that showed quite a bit of the machining and engraving going on that was quite interestingh, I think the boss is now doing time for tax evasion.

Is it really worth searching around for then when you can get a new brass pair for a fiver, maybe less with a bit of searching on e-bay.

Also as they are really under no load you could cut your own with a home ground tool, just freehand ground by eye.

Edited By JasonB on 15/07/2018 07:15:38