Member postings for JasonB

Nothing special in the hand tool department, mostly a 6mm square file to blend the stepped convex part, a 10mm round file, few grades of emery and a bit of 12mm steel bar to wrap the emery around as well as around the sq file.

As the name suggests it is only the point or end that has a spiral which due to being so short looks more like an angled flute here, unlike a drill the flute is left handed so pushes the swarf down.

You can see the spiral a lot better on spiral flute taps which have a longer spiral and that is right handed so it lifts the swarf out of blind holes here and below.

It's jobs like this that make CNC appealing but do I really need it when I have got Alibre to give me some tool offsets and a DRO so the mill can be set to these?

Started with a bit of 16mm 6082, drilled a couple of holes that will be easier now than later and then squared the ends with a couple of full depth passes.

Made a start with a 12mm high by 1mm deep pass all round

Then worked my way up in 0.5mm increments

Until I got to a height where a 12mm bull nose cutter could be used for the other half of the ogee

Then did similar to the corners except I used 1.0mm steps

Then a bit of hand work to blend in all the steps.

If you have not used a spiral point tap for through holes you have been missing out, I cut this M8 x 0.75 without backing off the tap and the swarf shown all came out the bottom of the hole rather than clogging up the flutes like you would get with a traditional tap.

Edited By JasonB on 18/12/2018 19:17:24

Problem with 6061 for Sam is it is not that common in Europe, not so hard to find in the US. Just as well that 6082 is about the same as far as corrosion resistance and that is probably going to be the most likely spec of any odd bar you have to hand as it is the old HE30 and what just about every e-bay seller lists for round bar.

Could it be worn chuck jaws, light cuts in stainless with a tipped tool may well want to push the work rather than cut and that could make the work move and start to wobble.

As Nick says if the whole chuck wobbles then that would eliminate the jaws.

Ron, the idea of those little angle gauges and the reason I said to cut a rectangle with your notch in is that you hold one side of the gauge against the work and then adjust the tool in it's holder so it fits the vee, see bottom left

You can't run it all the way forwards as the bracket that the handle runs in hits the lower part so can't simply wind it off.

EDIT. I just remembered that I took it off to show someone else how to do it, handle can remain in place, just undo the two bracket screws and then you can slide it all the way off.

Edited By JasonB on 18/12/2018 07:58:22

I suppose we should ask was it OK in the 4 years between regrind and when you stopped using it? This would eliminate the possibility of previous damage and point towards something that has happened in storage.

My thoughts on the belts was that at certain revs there may be a frequency that causes more vibration than at other times.

Take the handle off then dial and then unscrew the two screws either side of the bracket and you should be able to slide it off.

David once you paste the text from the other forum you will need to go through it and remove the IMG codes and cut and paste the URL between them into the Image icon at the top of the editing screen.

I'll do what you have already posted as you may not be able to get back to edit it.

EDIT, looks like you got there first

Edited By JasonB on 17/12/2018 19:16:41

For a one off why not drawn it out on a bit of stiff paper or light card then use a stanley knife to cut out the vee and make a little rectangular tool.

Simple if you put a line at right angles to your papers edge 100mm long, then mark 36.4 or 36.5 would do each side and make the triangle.

Subs emails would not have come from the forum so will not use any user names, may be picking up something from when you took out the subscription with whoever was providing that service at the time.-

Suggest you reply to address the e-mail originates from or any contact e-mail within.

Could the drive belts from the motor have taken a "set" over 7 years of standing idle? that could set up vibrations.

Not sure how the gap piece being off would affect the work "suddenly starting to wobble" but would affect accuracy and being able to turn parallel.

What conditions was it stored in? warm and heated or cold and damp.

As neil says you still need to hold it the right way up when taking landscape

Here is one taken landscape with phone " shutter release" to the left. Uploaded straight from phone.

And one with it on the right

Some previous "upside down" photos in Robert's album would seem to suggest this is what he is doing. The only image of this engine the right way up is the one I edited and uploaded to Roberts album.

This next screenshot from my PC also confirms that windows can read which way up the image should go as both are the right way up when I view the phone's content on my PC but the forum software can't tell the right way up.

Edited By JasonB on 17/12/2018 09:36:10

It could also be that Robert is seeing them the right way on his machine but not saving them the right way round.

As I said on the first post under the photo I rotated Neil's No 1 works best or just take all photos for the forum with phone in landscape mode.

If running on air then with the crank at TDC the high point of the eccentric wants to lead by about 90degrees plus 10degrees so 100 degrees ahead total. If on steam you want about 30 degrees of lead so 120degrees total.

So for air with crank at 12o'clock high point of eccentric wants to be at 20 past 3 and with steam at 4o'clock. for teh opposite direction then 8.40 for air or 8 o'clock for steam

Which of the Bolton engins is it?

Edited By JasonB on 16/12/2018 19:06:18

Looks to be running well Mike, you don't see many of these made. Nice shade of green too.

The bushes are bronze, the fittings brass

Myself any that will be in contact with the water I would do in bronze, those only likely to be in contact with steam I would use brass for. It is the impurities in the water at temperature that can cause dezincification not the steam.

Maybe you could tell Myford what it is

Paul, I know how displacement ones work but that lubricator is OPEN where you watch the drip

How does that drip feed oiler work? air/steam pressure will want to blow back out of it and even if you had a non-return valve there would be no vacuum to open it.