Member postings for JasonB

I doubt it will affect just working displays. Static displayed items still need to be transported to an event and back home which is where the cost is likely to be as you won't cover many miles at a rally.

It is also likely to affect smaller ME shows, all the ones I have shown at you don't get paid, free entry is usually all you get. As it often means two trips one to drop off the model and another to collect or one trip and an overnight stay there will be less that can afford that and may only make a single day trip to attend as a punter not an exhibitor.

The Amadeal is not the same as the other two which do both come out of the Sieg factory.

Supplier backup, knowledge and spares would be something to consider not just a guarentee, would a mostly woodworking based supplier have the same knowledge of the machines and engineering in general as one that only does enginnering tools and machines?

Yes shank size.

Thanks for the comments.

I must admit I like an engine with a nice slow tick over, quite relaxing to just sit there watching them run. Though the IC engines are enjoyable to make and run they are not so peaceful to watch.

This is the Robinson Oil Engine I mentioned if the FB link did not work, set of castings are almost on their way to me. I did have a hand in some of the pattern making. At least it should smell good running on paraffin with hot tube ignition and eventually a spirit lamp to heat the tube.

I use the free one and just renewed when it ran out. Store my CAM stuff on it and don't find it slow to bring anything up except for a click or two to alter it from read only to editable. I did upgrade my PC to SSD and changed virus protection a few months back and it's a lot faster as is the whole PC.

In fact at the moment you can run all the usual paid for items for free as they are trying to let you see what you may be missing.

Edited By JasonB on 25/06/2022 13:29:58

Like Andrew I can usually do mine in a lot less than 5mins, more like 30seconds. You are just looking for movement in the needle not taking readings at each end and then trying to half those.

I did fit the keys to the 80mm ARC versatile and they are good enough for most jobs, it lives with the CNC milll and does not get clocked when I fit it.

before anyone says "it's a ghost train" There are some photos in Makon's album

Not good photos but I would suggest you consider the boiler as not usable at this stage.

Edited By JasonB on 25/06/2022 06:52:03

The keen eyed will have spotted that I went with an off white paint colour for this engine, Ford "Ivory" was what caught my eye in Halfords. Non ferrous metal was primed with Upol Acid8, the Flywheel and cylinder with Upol High5. Bothe were then given a coat of Halfords white primer as were the remaining steel parts to get a uniform base for the topcoat.

A few shots of the parts laid out prior to final assembly, the engine having been test run before hand as I like to sort out any issues if there are any without the risk of damaging the paint if you have to start pulling things apart a few times. All visible fixings are small hex metric, mostly studs and nuts which you can see in one container and those that don't show are socket head.









Well lets see what they look like all put together.















So that about wraps up the build. I'm happy with how it turned out and it has fulfilled my initial desire to show that an attractive and individual model can be built based on an existing design for about half what it would cost if you bought the full kit and you also get a lot more workshop time for your outlay.

I don't know how many of you are like me and enjoy looking at "naked" models (not that sort). Be it plastic AFVs, miniature figures or model engines I like to see them before they are painted a sit lets you see some of what has gone on in the construction as well as materials and methods used so here is a video of the early test run, just tacked together with a few screws, minor bits missing, no gaskets, packing or piston rings. It was also before I added the balance weight to the flywheel.

Having just seen the latest collaberation with Graham C come to life I best get on and finish this one to make room for another project, A proper oil burning Robinson HA, the first runs can be seen on facebook. Not sure if this link will work

I'm a bit of a fan of aluminium pistons in engines both IC and steam as they do reduce the reciprocating weight so starting with some 1" 6082 bar the end was faced, spot drilled, drilled tapping size right through and then counter drilled 5mm (piston rod size) for about 1/3rd the piston thickness before being tapped M5 with a spiral flute tap.



After sawing off a length the sawn surface was faced and a counterbore turned so that a lock nut can be used on the piston rod but not hit the cylinder end cover.



The piston was then screwed onto the previously prepared stainless steel piston rod and locked with a thinned down nut never to be taken apart again. Then holding by the rod in a collet and with tailstock support the OD was taken down to 25mm using the cylinder to once again gauge the fit followed by cutting a groove for an O ring



Well that covers all the parts I took specific photos of but there are a few others which luckily seem to have all migrated to this corner of the group photo.



The Eccentric rod is just 1.5 x 5mm section reduced down from the next available stock size, drilled at both ends (one CSK) and then rounded over.

A couple of pins for the crosshead, valve rod/eccentric rod, etc are just basic turning. A couple of flanged pipe fittings, I decided just to do short stubs and not fully plumb in the engine.

There is also the cylinder cladding which was some veneer that I cut up into planks with a scaple and stuck onto some thin linen which makes them easy to handle as one so they can be cut to a card template. The brass bands hold the cladding in place.

Edited By JasonB on 24/06/2022 20:48:56

Probably easier to reduce the round hoop by filing

If you look at a simples single acting wobbler the inlet is open for 170-180deg and similar for the exhaust . Remember when running on air you will not get expansion like you do with steam so even more need to keep things open for longer.

A double acting steam engine with no lap will also be close to 180/180.

I think poking some ball bearings into the flywheel holes would be more effective and look better too,

Noel, how do you make it double acting?

To me the connections are at one end of the cylinder so piston only sees air pressure on one side.

Can't see your single valve either as there are two valves per cylinder one is the inlet that feeds to one end extending the ram and the other the exhaust that allows the air out of the same end of the cylinder as the ram is pushed back by the opposing cylinder x 2 for the other cylinder

And Cross coupled usually has two cranks at opposite ends of a crankshaft, this is more of a horizontally opposed layout.

Edited By JasonB on 24/06/2022 12:07:33

Ian and V8 as you will have seen in the linked thread you will be sent an ID when the system is fully up and running if you did not get it with the DD e-mail or you can contact them if you can't wait.

"We are planning to send an email to everyone with Customer IDs. Currently, the only way to get it is from the cover sheet that gets posted with the magazine, or by emailing or calling customer services: 01507 529529 - emailqueries@mortons.co.uk"

I would also suggest you read the last 3 editorials in MEW where Neil has advised of the change in ownership, delays to online access and also about contacting subscribers who pay by card etc. You can Access your subscriptions through Pocketmags as normal to do this.

Edited By JasonB on 24/06/2022 11:42:46

Or you can buy them with the radius already on the corners I use these quite a bit on the CNC to leave a fillet, I have both and it is a good way to use up blunted ones, you can grind concave and convex corners for beads etc. Freehand grinding will do and any slight errors will be averaged out by 3 or 4 teeth and it's a casting we are trying to replicate after all.

The main advantage of the Vietti one sis that they are half the size of the Minimag and don't look too out of scale when mounted on the engine. He also has a low tension one for use with ignitor sand an oscillating one that can be driven by the pushrod and not off the crank just like full size.

Looks good and yes I would add the fillet.

have a read through this thread about updates due to change of publisher. If you got an e-mail a couple of weeks ago about change to Direct Debit then your ID number will be on that.

Just "DLW" may be possible.

It's the fact the letters are small and raised that makes it difficult, if small and cut into the metal that is a lot easier to do.

1mm cutter won't really do it. This is text on a 25mm circle. to get into the top of the "a" the cutter needs to be 0.3mm and 0.6mm is the largest that will get into the enclosed part. You would also really need to layout each letter individually as normal spacing makes the r & t almost touch

Can be done with a tapered engraving cutter with 0.2mm tip but you won't get very deep , this combined with the fact the upper case letters are only 3.25mm high and it will probably end up as a black blob of scorched wood

Edited By JasonB on 23/06/2022 20:32:55

Edited By JasonB on 23/06/2022 20:35:27

That is going to be quite a small font at just less than 1" long and you are are likely to just get burnt black blobs where the o and a should be.