By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Russell Eberhardt

Here is a list of all the postings Russell Eberhardt has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Wheel cutting depth of feed
09/02/2012 13:53:32
Can anyone explain why the depth of feed for modules 0 to 1.5 is given as 2.95 x M except for the range 0.5 to 1.0 where it is given as 3.38 x M?
This doesn't seem logical to me. I could understand a smaller module being different to a larger one but changing back again seems strange Or is there a misprint in the tables?
Thread: old Simplex articles
09/02/2012 13:43:52
Sorry, I haven't seen a suitable redesign. This is a bit of a grey area as different boiler inspectors have different ideas. A commercially made boiler is CE marked and complies with the pressure vessels directive and should be accepted anywhere in Europe whatever it's construction.
If you want to make a boiler youself and have it tested and used in the UK it is best to discuss it with the inspector you will be using before starting.
08/02/2012 19:58:17
When considering the boiler you will have to consider any rules laid down in Germany for model boilers. The Simplex boiler as described will not be accepted by UK boiler inspectors and insurance companies as they don't like the T section crown stays. It is acceptable here in France but has to be fitted with a fusible plug which means you have to change the superheater design.
Thread: Power Hacksaw run off
08/02/2012 19:48:54
Posted by Les Jones 1 on 08/02/2012 18:30:32:
I am impressed by its accuracy.

From the video it looks as if his foot was impressed by that large lump he cut!
Thread: old Simplex articles
08/02/2012 10:06:58
Posted by Jo Thoms on 07/02/2012 20:00:44:If you search on simplex website: the guys should be able to help you with everything you need (including helping by identifying the numerous corrections to the published articale/drawings)

Unfortunately this site hasn't been updated for several years. There is useful information there but there does'nt seem to be anyone to contact.
07/02/2012 15:27:15
What is your line on people requesting or sending PDF copies of articles for personal use? Is there a copyright problem?
Thread: Digital Issues
07/02/2012 10:26:55
Are there any plans to expend the issues of M.E. further back? I would love to be able to put my back numbers out of the way in the attic.
Thread: Serendipity
05/02/2012 14:19:55
A few years back, when I moved into a rented house I also found an engineers square - along with some toolmakers clamps, files, a micrometer, and best of all bench shears. Spoke to the landlord and he didn't want them so they left with me.

Thread: Is this scrap?
05/02/2012 14:08:11
Harold Hall published a design for a jig (or is it a fixture?) for sharpening slitting saws on his grinding rest. I have built one and it only takes a few minutes to sharpen the saw while it takes several days to get a new one sent mail order!
Most small mills run the spindle much too fast on their lowest speed for using a slitting saw. That was my initial reason for fitting a variable speed drive.
Thread: 9x20 Lathe Parts
04/02/2012 21:10:40
Thanks for all the replies. I now have the manual.
Thread: Quality of Engineer's squares
04/02/2012 10:48:53
A cheap source of cylindrical squares is old gudgeon pins from a car scrapyard. I have a pair of Rover 2000 ones that I have used for years. They are precision ground to a couple of tenths under 1" dia. and just under 3" long. I'm sure something bigger could be found from a truck.
Thread: 9x20 Lathe Parts
04/02/2012 10:31:41
Posted by wotsit on 13/01/2012 20:20:58:

This site has a good copy of a rebuild manual from Cletus Berkeley (it used to be in the Yahoo Group at one time) - it refers to the Grizzly version, but fits most makes.


Does anyone have a copy of this file or a working link? The above link is broken.
Thread: Lidl cast steel vice-16.99
04/02/2012 10:15:21
Posted by John Stevenson on 04/02/2012 00:49:42:

Same with printers, these are sold with 30% filled cartridges and they make their money on new consumables. So now just buy one, run it until it runs out of ink then bin it.
..or just refill the cartridges with ink or toner yourself. It's a bit meesy but much cheaper.
Thread: graphite yarn no thanks o-rings yes please
04/02/2012 10:04:17
Posted by JasonB on 04/02/2012 07:38:04:
Get a copy of "Model Engineers Handbook" the tables in that give sizes specifically for our use on pistons as well as the usual type seals.

I agree. It's a very useful book by "Tubal Caine" and full of indispensable info.
Regarding the "O" rings, There shouldn't be any "nip" between the bottom of the groove in the piston and the bore as suggested by some. This will just give excessive wear.
The bore should be exactly the nominal OD of the ring. This will give slight compression of the ring. There should be less than about 5 thou diametrical clearance between the piston and bore to prevent the ring from extruding between the bore and piston. The depth of the groove should be sufficient to give a slight clearance to the ring, just a few thou deeper than the ring section. The groove width should be about 10 thou greater than the ring section to allow movement.
The seal isn't produced by pinching between bore and piston. The steam pressure pushes the ring against the side of the groove to obtain a seal, hence the necessity for the groove to have some side clearance.
However, don't believe me, get Tubal Cain's book.
Thread: 15-day Skeleton Timepiece
27/01/2012 17:03:52
26/01/2012 19:58:27
Hi John,
Thanks for that.
Perhaps a silly question but:
I had a problem with a clock I repaired where I re-bushed a couple of pivot holes. It would run OK for a few days, then loose half an hour the next day, then run OK again. I found the problem to be that I had made the pivot holes too sharp on the inside edge and the pivots had a significantly rounded corner at the shoulder. This occasionally caused things to stick.
Would you recommend an undercut on the shoulder of thee pivot, making polishing difficult or a slight countersink on the inside edge of the holes?
25/01/2012 20:47:20
It's looking good so far.
The drill sizes I came up with are the closest I could find to the decimal dimensions in the article. The metric ones are closer than the nearest number drills. Of course, as you say, it doesn't really matter as the parts should be made to fit.
A question when it comes to the pivot holes in the frames: I guess the holes are drilled to the pivot diameters and then opened out with a broach. My question is how much should they be opened? I have seen books recommending that the arbors should be able to tilt by about 15 deg. but the frame thickness must affect the amount of tilt for a given clearance. What would you recommend?
23/01/2012 10:46:15
After several years of model engineering and as my grandfather, great grandfather, and great great grandfather were all watch and clock makers I have decided to make my own clock.
I have chosen John Parslow's skeleton clock as it is described as being suitable for beginners to clockmaking and looks nice.
Having started it I have found that he assumes rather a lot of clockmaking knowledge so have been reading up on techniques and nomenclature. I have also found quite a few errors in the articles (some, but not all, of which were corrected in later articles) so I will note them here in case it helps anyone else:
1. The material list omits the brass for the minute wheel. This should be 1.5 in Dia. x 3/32.
2. The 4 mm winding key specified will not fit on the 0.18 AF end of the barrel arbor. The correct key is 4.5 mm.
3. The suspension spring should be part no. S5516.
4. The mainspring should be part no. 0321 204515.
5. He gives some rather odd dimensions for the bores of the wheel collets and pinions. I'm using the following drill sizes:
0.78 2 mm.
0.85 #44
0.112 #33
0.118 3 mm.
That's all for now - back to the workshop.
Thread: Beginners first simple clock kit / plans
23/01/2012 10:19:37
Hi Chris,
It depends on your skill level. Some of the clocks intended for beginners by John Wilding are good and have pretty detailed instructions in his ME articles (reprinted as books).  Have a look at Ian Cobb's website here for the books and materials and, if you need them, pre-cut wheels.
I have just started John Parslow's 15-day Skeleton Clock which was described in ME as a simple beginner's clock and serialised in ME in 2008. Have a look at it on Digital Editions if you are a subscriber. However, although it is described as a beginner's clock, the building instructions assume quite a bit of knowledge and there are qute a few errors.

Edited By russell eberhardt on 23/01/2012 10:23:03

Edited By russell eberhardt on 23/01/2012 10:23:28

Thread: Rob Roy
22/01/2012 14:05:01
It's to allow the collection of steam well above the water level in the boiler. A pipe sticks up into the dome to collect (reasonably) dry steam for the cykinders.
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
rapid Direct
walker midge
JD Metals
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest