Here is a list of all the postings Russell Eberhardt has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Wheel cutting depth of feed|
Can anyone explain why the depth of feed for modules 0 to 1.5 is given as 2.95 x M except for the range 0.5 to 1.0 where it is given as 3.38 x M?
This doesn't seem logical to me. I could understand a smaller module being different to a larger one but changing back again seems strange Or is there a misprint in the tables?
|Thread: old Simplex articles|
Sorry, I haven't seen a suitable redesign. This is a bit of a grey area as different boiler inspectors have different ideas. A commercially made boiler is CE marked and complies with the pressure vessels directive and should be accepted anywhere in Europe whatever it's construction.
If you want to make a boiler youself and have it tested and used in the UK it is best to discuss it with the inspector you will be using before starting.
When considering the boiler you will have to consider any rules laid down in Germany for model boilers. The Simplex boiler as described will not be accepted by UK boiler inspectors and insurance companies as they don't like the T section crown stays. It is acceptable here in France but has to be fitted with a fusible plug which means you have to change the superheater design.
|Thread: Power Hacksaw run off|
From the video it looks as if his foot was impressed by that large lump he cut!
|Thread: old Simplex articles|
Unfortunately this site hasn't been updated for several years. There is useful information there but there does'nt seem to be anyone to contact.
What is your line on people requesting or sending PDF copies of articles for personal use? Is there a copyright problem?
|Thread: Digital Issues|
Are there any plans to expend the issues of M.E. further back? I would love to be able to put my back numbers out of the way in the attic.
A few years back, when I moved into a rented house I also found an engineers square - along with some toolmakers clamps, files, a micrometer, and best of all bench shears. Spoke to the landlord and he didn't want them so they left with me.
|Thread: Is this scrap?|
Harold Hall published a design for a jig (or is it a fixture?) for sharpening slitting saws on his grinding rest. I have built one and it only takes a few minutes to sharpen the saw while it takes several days to get a new one sent mail order!
Most small mills run the spindle much too fast on their lowest speed for using a slitting saw. That was my initial reason for fitting a variable speed drive.
|Thread: 9x20 Lathe Parts|
Thanks for all the replies. I now have the manual.
|Thread: Quality of Engineer's squares|
A cheap source of cylindrical squares is old gudgeon pins from a car scrapyard. I have a pair of Rover 2000 ones that I have used for years. They are precision ground to a couple of tenths under 1" dia. and just under 3" long. I'm sure something bigger could be found from a truck.
|Thread: 9x20 Lathe Parts|
Does anyone have a copy of this file or a working link? The above link is broken.
|Thread: Lidl cast steel vice-16.99|
..or just refill the cartridges with ink or toner yourself. It's a bit meesy but much cheaper.
|Thread: graphite yarn no thanks o-rings yes please|
I agree. It's a very useful book by "Tubal Caine" and full of indispensable info.
Regarding the "O" rings, There shouldn't be any "nip" between the bottom of the groove in the piston and the bore as suggested by some. This will just give excessive wear.
The bore should be exactly the nominal OD of the ring. This will give slight compression of the ring. There should be less than about 5 thou diametrical clearance between the piston and bore to prevent the ring from extruding between the bore and piston. The depth of the groove should be sufficient to give a slight clearance to the ring, just a few thou deeper than the ring section. The groove width should be about 10 thou greater than the ring section to allow movement.
The seal isn't produced by pinching between bore and piston. The steam pressure pushes the ring against the side of the groove to obtain a seal, hence the necessity for the groove to have some side clearance.
However, don't believe me, get Tubal Cain's book.
|Thread: 15-day Skeleton Timepiece|
Thanks for that.
Perhaps a silly question but:
I had a problem with a clock I repaired where I re-bushed a couple of pivot holes. It would run OK for a few days, then loose half an hour the next day, then run OK again. I found the problem to be that I had made the pivot holes too sharp on the inside edge and the pivots had a significantly rounded corner at the shoulder. This occasionally caused things to stick.
Would you recommend an undercut on the shoulder of thee pivot, making polishing difficult or a slight countersink on the inside edge of the holes?
It's looking good so far.
The drill sizes I came up with are the closest I could find to the decimal dimensions in the article. The metric ones are closer than the nearest number drills. Of course, as you say, it doesn't really matter as the parts should be made to fit.
A question when it comes to the pivot holes in the frames: I guess the holes are drilled to the pivot diameters and then opened out with a broach. My question is how much should they be opened? I have seen books recommending that the arbors should be able to tilt by about 15 deg. but the frame thickness must affect the amount of tilt for a given clearance. What would you recommend?
After several years of model engineering and as my grandfather, great grandfather, and great great grandfather were all watch and clock makers I have decided to make my own clock.
I have chosen John Parslow's skeleton clock as it is described as being suitable for beginners to clockmaking and looks nice.
Having started it I have found that he assumes rather a lot of clockmaking knowledge so have been reading up on techniques and nomenclature. I have also found quite a few errors in the articles (some, but not all, of which were corrected in later articles) so I will note them here in case it helps anyone else:
1. The material list omits the brass for the minute wheel. This should be 1.5 in Dia. x 3/32.
2. The 4 mm winding key specified will not fit on the 0.18 AF end of the barrel arbor. The correct key is 4.5 mm.
3. The suspension spring should be part no. S5516.
4. The mainspring should be part no. 0321 204515.
5. He gives some rather odd dimensions for the bores of the wheel collets and pinions. I'm using the following drill sizes:
0.78 2 mm.
0.118 3 mm.
That's all for now - back to the workshop.
|Thread: Beginners first simple clock kit / plans|
It depends on your skill level. Some of the clocks intended for beginners by John Wilding are good and have pretty detailed instructions in his ME articles (reprinted as books). Have a look at Ian Cobb's website here for the books and materials and, if you need them, pre-cut wheels.
I have just started John Parslow's 15-day Skeleton Clock which was described in ME as a simple beginner's clock and serialised in ME in 2008. Have a look at it on Digital Editions if you are a subscriber. However, although it is described as a beginner's clock, the building instructions assume quite a bit of knowledge and there are qute a few errors.
Edited By russell eberhardt on 23/01/2012 10:23:03
Edited By russell eberhardt on 23/01/2012 10:23:28
|Thread: Rob Roy|
It's to allow the collection of steam well above the water level in the boiler. A pipe sticks up into the dome to collect (reasonably) dry steam for the cykinders.
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