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Member postings for Russell Eberhardt

Here is a list of all the postings Russell Eberhardt has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Model Engineer's Handbook printing error
19/04/2019 10:58:09

My third edition is fine.

Russell

Thread: Hard to please OAPs
17/04/2019 11:29:49

I was awarded a masters degree 48 years ago for research in artificial intelligence. Should never have started it - I hate things like Google Home and Alexa!

Grumpy Old Russell

Thread: DraftSight no longer free
09/04/2019 15:21:01

For anyone having problems with translating .dwg files to .dfx there is a very useful utility called "ODA File Converter". It is a free download for Linux, Mac, or Windows.

**LINK**

https://www.opendesign.com/guestfiles/oda_file_converter

It will translate your .dwg or .dxf files to any .dwg form at from Autocad R12 to 2018 and to 21 different versions of .dfx.

Russell

Thread: Ferric chloride
09/04/2019 15:03:48
Posted by Maurice on 08/04/2019 18:57:22:

Another tip, was to fix the work to something which allows the work to be held in the etchant face down to allow the debris to fall away, and rock it gently at the same time.

Heating it a little helps. I have an idea to place a tray of etchant on the heated 3D printer bed and program the printer to an appropriate temperature and to give a gentle back and forward movement to agitate. Some experimentation to come.

Russell

Thread: Todays DUMBO award
06/04/2019 11:05:47
Posted by Hopper on 05/04/2019 07:49:27:

I worked with Swiss engineers who always fitted hacksaw blades "backwards" because thats the way they do it there. They swear it works better.

I've done that for years. Try it! I think it's because the centre of push on the handle is higher than the blade teeth. So if the teeth catch the push makes them dig in more. If pulling to cut the pull tends to lift the teeth if they catch.

. . . or perhaps it's because I have Swiss ancestors smiley

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 06/04/2019 11:07:03

Thread: Machinery Directive and CE marking
06/04/2019 09:23:54
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 04/04/2019 22:20:03:
Posted by Phil Whitley on 04/04/2019 20:24:46:

The operative here is "products SOLD" if you are not selling it, it does not need a CE mark

The formal phrase is placed on the market. But Phil is essentially correct, if you'e not producing items for sale to the general population then there is no requirement to CE mark. As far as I'm aware it is illegal to CE when it is not mandated.

Andrew

As someone who was actively involved as a UK representative on EU standards committees and UK expert on various working groups in the EU before retirement I can confirm that Andrew is correct.

As far as EU Directives are concerned, they are not aimed at individuals or even manufacturers. They direct national governments to enact certain legislation. Thus you have to refer to and conform to the UK legislation.

It is illegal to CE mark anything that does not require it.

Russell

Thread: Motor control circuit
04/04/2019 09:20:02

IMHO that unit will be fine when connected via a fused 13 A plug. I would unplug it when not in use or when working on it. O.K. you might forget to unplug it but equally you might forget to switch any isolator switch off. Check that the NVR function is enabled by running the machine, unplugging and plugging in again.

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 04/04/2019 09:21:06

Thread: Dishwasher detergents
01/04/2019 09:16:46
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 30/03/2019 23:31:00:

Just make sure they have built in salt and rinse aid. Some very cheap ones are just detergent.

Most, if not all dishwashers have a built in water softener and do a rinse cycle after the wash. The water softener needs salt to regenerate the ion exchange resin. Salt in the tablet will not do that. Rince aid ( a non foaming detergent ) is dispensed at the end of the cycle to aid drying. Again I doubt if putting it in the tablet will help.

I may just be a sceptic but I suggest that 4 in one or 5 in one tablets are just a marketing gimmick.

As an aside, a few drops of rince aid in water works wonders in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Russell

Thread: DraftSight no longer free
28/03/2019 14:49:52
Posted by Brian G on 28/03/2019 14:27:32:but it is going to take a while to get used to it as I have been using the same AutoCAD/DraftSight interface since taking my C&G on AutoCAD R14.

I'm with you there Brian. I've been using Autocad and then Draftsight since 1984, Autocad version 1.4 I think. It's difficult for this old dog to learn new tricks!

Russell

28/03/2019 14:15:33

My copy is 2018 sp3 and works without an internet connection but comes up with a notice to say that news and community features will not be available. I bet it will stop working though!

It does seem very unfair as, although Qcad will read and work on simple drawings some of my drawings are virtually unuseable in Qcad as it confuses layers and uses different font styles and sizes for dimensions. Perhaps it will be worth exporting all my drawings in various dxf versions before Draftsight goes tits up.

On the other hand perhaps some kind hacker will come up with an unlocked version that will keep working.

Russell

26/03/2019 11:14:17

In addition to stopping the free version they are stopping support for Linux and MAC.

Russell

Thread: AC Capacitor
26/03/2019 11:05:58
Posted by Howard Lewis on 26/03/2019 08:08:12:

They need to be 450 V rating, because the normal UK supply is 230 V R M S, which means that the peak voltage is much higher, about 330, from memory.

Start capacitors are ac rated. That means they are rated for up to the stated RMS voltage. So, in principal one marked 230 V ac is OK however it is always a good idea to have some extra safety margin.

Russell

Thread: Collet Chuck or not ?
26/03/2019 10:41:45

If you're going to hold a milling cutter in a three jaw chuck it's a good idea to interpose some brass shim between the chuck jaws and the end mill. The cutter will be much less likely to slip. I did this for many years, milling in the lathe before I bought a mill.

Russell

Thread: Tile drlling jig
19/03/2019 11:49:54

The problem with the diamond tile drills is that they don't have a point. The end is cylindrical so it is very difficult to hold in position by hand.

Dust isn't a problem for the suction cups but they can be difficult to locate with joints between tiles or previously drilled holes which, by sod's law are just where you want to put the suction cup!

Russell

18/03/2019 15:51:56

Needing to accurately drill six holes in the wall of our tiled shower area to fit a handrail and, finding that my 6 mm masonry bit had gone missing, off I went to our local DIY store. I was attracted by Wolfcraft kit of diamond drills and a drill jig like this:

drilljig.jpg

I bought one and took it home, drilled the first hole which seemed to go well, measured the position for the next hole, set up the jig and drilled the second fixing hole - it was off position by about half the diameter of the 6 mm hole angry

A quick investigation showed that the drill bit shank was 8.9 mm and the hole in the yellow guide part was 9.52 mm. Furthermore, when the drill is just in contact with the tile surface, only 8 mm of the shank is within the guide. Add to that the fact that the fit of the guide in the body is nearly as loose and the tip of the drill bit can move by about 6 mm away from the centre position. That's a bit much considering that the smallest drill in the set is 5 mm dia.

At least the diamond drills cut well sideways so I could finish the job by using the jig to start the holes by about 1 mm and then cutting sideways without the jig to correct the position.

Added to the To Do list - make a new guide from brass or bronze.

Russell

Thread: Making nameplates
15/03/2019 11:29:01

Hi John

The film I used was Mungolux

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Photopolymer-Film-Photo-Resist-Dry-Film-Photoresist-for-etching-pcb-gravure/262473322396?hash=item3d1ca10f9c:m:mLOaDla06VixMKAwTwhq5QQ&frcectupt=true

I cleaned the brass first with hot water and detergent to remove any grease then with fine wet and dry paper and water to remove any oxide (not sure if that is really necessary). I sprayed the brass with a fine mist of water before pressing the film in place, carefully removing all the water by rubbing the film with a soft cloth. I have had success on smaller parts using a domestic iron ironing it through brown parcel paper, but a laminator is more reliable. I guess small parts could be stuck to a sheet of paper with double sided tape to make them easier to feed.

Etched in a warm ferric chloride solution with the dial upside down on spacers so that any residue could fall out of the etched area. Occasional agitation and inspection was done to make sure all was going well.

Hope that helps.

Russell

14/03/2019 16:20:10

I've used photoresist from Ebay to etch a brass clock dial on 1.5 mm brass sheet. I used an A3 laminator purchased cheaply from Lidl and ran the thing through the laminator twice to make sure of the adhesion. It was exposed using the sun for about 3 seconds to get even exposure as I don't have a light box.

There is a good guide to doing the job here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ML37yRmAsOA

A couple of photos showing the developed resist and the finished product with the engraving filled with celulose paint:

dscf2661.jpg

dscf2666s.jpg

Russell

Thread: Older/cheaper lathes
08/03/2019 16:20:35
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/03/2019 23:46:09

Atlas swings 6" diameter

Myford swings 3.5" radius

[both nominal because of the bed shape]

Myford also has a gap bed.

MichaelG.

.

Quite, all American lathes are specified by diameter as opposed to the British idea of specifying centre height.

The Atlas 618 actually has a 3.5 in centre height like the Myfords. It is a rather rare model in the UK as it was only sold in the US. You are much more likely to find the 5 inch centre height model10F in the UK as many were imported for war work and they were also built by a number of UK companies during and after the war.

Russell

07/03/2019 10:40:36
Posted by phil1962 on 07/03/2019 08:59:56:looking for something better now I am going to look at an Atlas lathe soon he wants £150 for it. It looks to be in great condition the bed looks good and there's no play in the head it will need a lick of paint but looks like its all there ATB Phil.

Atlas lathes are somewhat under valued in the UK. They are very popular in the US. I bought my Atlas 10F in the early 1970s for £500 and would be lucky to get that for it now. It is like a big brother to the Myford 7 series, similar design but with 5" centre height, power cross-feed, and wider bed.

Russell

Thread: Bench Grinder
24/02/2019 10:18:10

Old motors ran cool because the insulation available for the winding wire wouldn't stand high temperatures. Modern winding wire can stand higher temperatures so motors are designed taking advantage of that fact. Thus they are smaller and cheaper for a given power.

My old 1/4 hp grinder has a big, heavy motor and never gets more than slightly warm. The small cheapo grinder that I use with cup wheels and HH rest does get hot but has lasted for over 12 years so far.

Russell

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