Here is a list of all the postings Russell Eberhardt has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chemically cleaning brass - gently|
Yes, clock cleaning fluid which is a mixture of water, ammonia, oleic acid (olive oil will do), and a touch of acetone. Best used in an ultrasonic bath to get into small holes such as pivot holes in clock plates but should work on brass jets.
If, as Michael suggests, it is copper oxide you could try using household ammonia solution to clean it.
|Thread: Cura 4.8|
You could try "repetier-host" which comes with the Slic3r slicer. That's what I started with and I found the combination quite easy to use.
|Thread: Fast charging anyone?|
5 minute charging time for a Tesla S 60 battery will require 720 kW from the supply, not allowing for charging inefficiency. So, if a standard 240 V supply is used, it will need to supply over 3000 A. So how thick will the cables be? A motorway service station might need 10 charging points so it will need a 7 MW supply at peak times!
|Thread: dual boot Dell laptop|
They often do!
|Thread: Increasing Friction??|
Good solution Chris. I've done the same in the past - just have to be careful that everything is aligned correctly otherwise things can move as you tighten the screw.
|Thread: Etching brass|
I've used this for etching a brass clock face with great results:
Master was ink jet printed on overhead projector film. UV exposure was a few minutes in November sunshine in the South of France so perhaps a bit longer in the UK.
|Thread: Smallest powerboat ever?|
You might find it interesting to sign up for their weekly briefing:
3D printed boat only 30 microns long and powered by hydrogen peroxide:
Can anyone beat that?
|Thread: Removing bang in self tappers|
I found them easy to remove from vintage cast iron car engine blocks by filing flats on the edges and gripping with a mole wrench to twist them out.
|Thread: COMPRESSION RATIOS|
Yes Pratt's Ethyl fuel became available in early 1930 and the 2.3 litre Talbot 90 was racing reliably with an unheard of 10:1 compression ratio. That enabled them to compete with the Bentleys with their 6 litre engines!
The only problem I have with varifocals is when working close to something overhear such as when rewiring a ceiling rose. For those occasions I have a pair of prescription reading glasses.
|Thread: ultrasonic cleaning fluid ?|
I use this recipe for cleaning clock parts in my ultrasonic bath. It brings brass parts up to a lovely shine.
For general cleaning I just use a little dishwasher rinse aid in water. It is just detergent but doesnt foam.
|Thread: Remote Controlled Boat|
Will it detect and give way to small sailing boats?
|Thread: Carbon fibre pendulum rod|
Surely not. Sorry if I have assumed too much.
To simplify things; Q is just a measure of how much energy is lost on each cycle of the pendulum and how much energy must be given back to it on each tick of the clock to maintain it. The higher the Q the smaller the energy is needed to keep it going and the less disturbance that it causes to the regularity of the clock.
Hope that helps.
I did measure the Q factor of my pendulum with all fittings. I can't find my notes just now but I think it came out at about 6000. Easy enough - set it going and count the number of cycles it takes to decay to 37% of it's starting amplitude. Multiply that number by 2 x Pi to get the Q. The most important factor is the air resistance so best to use lead or even uranium for the bob and an aerodynamic shape. I stuck with steel not having uranium to hand!
The supplier of the pultruded CF tube I used for my regulator quoted -0.1 to -0.3 ppm/C. I used a threaded bottom fitting for the rod for use with a regulator nut at the bottom of the bob. I calculated that making the transition from CF to steel 30mm below the centre of the bob would compensate for 0.2 ppm/C for the rod with a small positive contribution from the suspension.
Seems to work fine.
|Thread: Another new member|
Hello and welcome Peter
I was always interested in clocks having taken old alarm clocks apart as a teenager to see how they worked. Most of them went back together and continued working!
In my retirement my wife bought me a Vienna regulator (American) on Ebay and I restored that and was pleased to get it working. Later, on researching my family tree, I discovered that three generations of my ancestors were watch and clock makers so I took the plunge and started clock making as well as repairing clocks for friends. Making gears (more correctly called wheels and pinions) isn't that tedious.
Your new mill is very good for small items and could be converted for CNC. I have an SX2P which I have converted for CNC and find it very useful for crossing out wheels which is more difficult than cutting the teeth.
|Thread: Cleaning emergency !|
Replacing the floor covering in a camper van is by no means easy. The flooring is usually laid before the installation of the furniture so everything must be removed including the kitchen sink!
A possible alternative is to use floor paint. This is a useful guide: **LINK**
Try Googling "Plasticiser migration". I think you're stuffed.
When manufacturing electronic products we used to have to be carefull how they were packaged to prevent the plasticiser from the power cable ruining the plastic case of the unit.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.