Member postings for Russell Eberhardt

Are you sure the o-ring is 1.5 mm cross section? The nearest UK standard size would be 1.6 mm. Tubal Cain recommends (in his Model Engineer's Handbook) a groove width of 2.3 to 2.5 mm and depth of 1.18 to 1.25 mm. The width is greater than the ring cross section to allow for the compression of the ring. I would start at the tighter end of the tolerances, try it, and adjust to get a good feel for the fit. Yes, silicone is good.

Russell

Even more confusing, current French uses "Soudage" for soft soldering, silver soldering, and welding. The French term "brazage" refers to using a brass (laiton) filler.

Russell

How about this: **LINK**

https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/ca584-hard-red-fibre-sheet-0-8mm-thick

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 22/01/2020 09:29:05

The flywheel fits to the crankshaft by a short taper. You can turn a matching taper in the lathe with a short threaded section for a holding nut. Fit the flywheel to that and it will run true and should turn easily.

Russell

I've allways had good service from Speedy Cables (London) Ltd. They will make cables to your spec.

Russell

Thanks, I was looking at the magazine in the archive and didn't see that.

Russell

Interesting article but it's a shame that the pull out sheet of drawings isn't there.

Russell

Sounds like an interesting project. I would be inclined to use silver steel for the bed and not harden it for fear of distortion. ER 11 collets should be fine unless you want to grip anything below 0.5 mm. This would be a good start for the head-stock spindle.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Milling-Collet-Chucks-Straight-Shank/ER11-Straight-Shank-Chuck-with-Mini-Nut

Russell

The motor the OP linked to is designed for inverter use and is rated for input frequency from 5 Hz to 75 Hz. It has better cooling than standard motors. I fitted the same motor to my lathe several years ago and have never had over-heating problems. I still change belts occasionally but can't remember when I last used back gear.

Russell

Collets are certainly not necessary although they do help.

I built Tubal Cain's beam engine Mary as my first model. Following Tubal Cain's book made it very easy with just a lathe (and no collets).

Russell

. . . and what about double de-clutching? Synchromesh is for wimps

Russell

Yes, had one for heating/cooling in the house for a couple of years. The latest inverter models are very efficient with a typical COP of about 4.5 for heating. So for every 1 kWh of electricity used they will produce 4.5 kWh of heat. They used to be impractical in cold areas but the latest Toshiba units are rated for heating down to -20 C outside. However the COP does drop at low outdoor temperatures and they can be slow to start when it is really cold as they have to go through a pre-heating cycle in the outdoor unit. Here, where the night time temperature never goes below -8 C they are highly recommended.

Russell

Err ... power = force x velocity

So less force at the same or lower speed means lower power. Certainly production costs are lower with carbide but that includes machine time and tool sharpening costs, not relevant for most of us.

Russell

You might be interested in this clickspring video. He uses a mill but the same thing could be done on a lathe with a dividing head mounted on the cross slide.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6Ai5F8O3iI

Russell

I guess that's why the minimum diameter is specified - less likely to get blocked. However dismissing them as problematic is a bit strange. They can't be any worse than not having one at all even if they don't work!

Russell

How did you clean it? Have you lubricated it? What oil did you use? Platform escapements are very delicate and need a watch oil.

Russell

That does seem to be rather small. Here in France fusible plugs are recommended for any boiler used for public running and the smallest size in the recommendation is 1/4 Gas, that is just over 1/2 inch OD.

Russell

Try MEW issue 100, page 26

Russell

Edited By Russell Eberhardt on 14/11/2019 09:27:02

For me, the shelf life is determined by the state of the outside of the bottles. No matter how careful I am, the outside of each bottle gradually builds up a sticky residue that is almost impossible to remove with solvents but gets all over my fingers!

Russell

Those things are all well and good as long as you have strength and flexibility in your hands and wrists. As one gets older and arthritis sets in they are as bad as child proof bottles for medicines!

Russell