Here is a list of all the postings Jim Whetren has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cowells lathe or mill ownership?|
I have never had any concerns regarding the temperature of my motor, even after a prolonged machining session. It certainly becomes warm, but that's about all.
My lathe is powered by an AC motor driving a countershaft with a 3 step pulley. There is also a back gear to provide 3 lower speeds.
I also have the fine feed gear train which is used for screw cuting with additional gears.
I would not say the lathe is noisy in direct drive, or much more so with the gears in use. If mounted on on rubber feet, I doubt it could be heard in the next room.
Hope this helps,
|Thread: Digital editions of Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop.|
Thank you for taking a look at the problem. Based on your browser suggestion, I had a look at 'Internet Options' and allowed Pop-Ups and Cookies to no avail, but if I disabled them and Mobile Code in my security suite, I now have access to all of the content.
This is strange as these were enabled before when everything used to work. However, I know what to do now, and must just remember to turn it all back on when I have finished.
As you can see, it's been keeping me awake!
I seem to be having the same problem as Hugh.
When I try to view either current or archive issues, the viewer loads with this message:
You are not authorised
to view this document.
Any ideas as to why this has suddenly happened?
|Thread: Query on Jim Whetren's toolrest|
If you scroll down the Home Page and click on More Latest Articles, this article is on page 6.
The rest was made for a Prazimat lathe - 180 x 450 mm. However, I can't see any reason why the tapered clamp should not still work if the parts were much narrower. It just means using smaller diameter screws and springs.
Although this isn't the only way to clamp, I was attracted to one twist of the lever for both jobs, as per Mr Thomas.
|Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder|
just log on and send a 'Message member'.
I got the plans many years ago, and although at that time I think the castings were available, being an honourary 'Scot', I made mine as a built up item.
Since making it I have sharpened most things from lathe tools to taps.
If you want more info, send me a message.
|Thread: 2" Tee Bolt|
I had a Myford Swivelling Slide which I used on a Drummond lathe at the time.
I found that when using it, the slide had a tendancy to move, so I replaced the single fixing with two bolts. It seems that Myford have had the same idea.
My bolt had a seperate T nut screwed on the end, which I believe is slightly larger than a Myford one?
In our tradition of 'never throw anything away' I still have the original T bolt which I think is about 1/2" in diameter.
|Thread: Tightening collets|
To return to the original query, I would have thought that if the work was spinning, then either the MT socket was too short and the collet was bottoming before it fully closed, or the drawbar thread was too short; and binding before the nut was fully tightened.
I would fit an empty collet and see if the slits start to close up if the drawbar is tightened.
|Thread: Old lathe, chuck accuracy|
I have sucessfully made a chuck for ER 20 collets to use them on a Cowells lathe.
If ypu make the register a good fit when it is screwed onto the mandrel, then bore the taper for the collet in situ, it should hold true.
I must admit that on all the ER holders I have made, I cheated and used purchased closing nuts to avoid the turning of the eccentric locating flange. Go for it.
|Thread: Myford ml7 clutch|
Hello again Steve,
I have sent you a message with my e-mail address so we can make contact outside of the forum.
It just so happens this was the first MEW issue I bought, and as I don't have a Myford, I only gave the plans a passing look.
What was it you wanted to know?
|Thread: Drill Chuck, Dismantle|
Seperate the nut and remove, but examine the jaws before removal as they are usually marked for position, The teeth end in different places and there are marks in the slots into which each fits.
If this is not so or it all goes wrong, fit the jaws aligned with the end as before and try to fit the nut. If one jaw is sticking out, swap them around until the tips are level and move in and out evenly as you turn the nut with your fingers.
When all is well, use the spacer/s and a piece of material to protect the back and press the sleeve back on. When apart you can see that with the jaws so aligned, the inner ends will clear the sleeve.
Now for the rub, The Rohm chuck has a split nut but it also incorporates the sleeves gear teeth. This means that the sleeve has to be pressed off the gear teeth towards the BACK of the chuck. The Nut/teeth unit is pulled apart and the other instructions apply.
With close examination it should be possible to decide which way to press. Don't do what I did and keep pressing until something gives. I killed the closing sleeve and had to make a new one!
I hope this is of some use to you.
|Thread: Printing error of MEW back issues|
Hello Garth & MP,
I had a play with the sample before committing to a sub, and found the same problem.
I attacked it in a different way. Instead of using my default printer, I selected Microsoft XPS document Writer, and in Printing Preferences\Advanced selected A4 Extra.
I then printed 20 pages at a time so I didn't have to wait too long to see the result. When viewed, the whole page was visible so it can be seen if any are out of squence.
Because I don't want to print the whole magazine, just the article Etc. of interest, I saved the three XPS files (p1-20 21-40 41-68) as Adobe PDF's and then combined them into a single PDF.
This resulted in a file the same as the other downloads - Model Mechanics Etc. which have the thumbnails down the side to find the page you want instantly.
I hope this is of some help.
|Thread: HELP Wanted! Cutting Metal - But By What Means?|
For what it's worth, I use the Metal cutting Bandsaw from Axminster. (£165 when I bought it; now on offer at £199)
It does not have the vertical facility but it is supplied with a self assembly metal stand which with the addition of some castors from B&Q, allows it to be easilly pulled out from against the wall to use it.
It also has an excellent quick set cam lock vice which I have used with a small mod to slice 1/8" off 3/4" square blocks stood on end. I have also cut a 1/2" length of 2" Dia. MS in half. The facing cut needed to clean up is less than 0.5mm.
I find this meets all my sawing needs. I have never had the blade come off and I don't use coolant. (usual disclaimer)
|Thread: Which Cutter Grinder?|
If you want a home build which is not too demanding and is complete, then I would recommend the Worden,
Given that it is ready to go when finished, the price is quite reasonable.
I am not knocking other kits, but with the work invollved and the purchase of a motor and grinding wheels, it becomes a long term project which is fairly expensive.
Horses for courses.
|Thread: Taper cutting|
Yes, as Mr Mason describes it; the swarf comes off like cobwebs.
I also agree with raising the tool in a QC-TP to reach a shoulder, and the use of Scotchbrite.
Was there ever an original thought in our hobby?
I have been using this tool for finishing since I saw it in 'Using the Small Lathe' by L C Mason. It is simple to make from round HSS.
The only proviso is to take very light cuts, in the order of a thou' or so.
If it helps anyone, look at page three of the past articles on this site where there is a photo of one in action in the 'Graduating to Better Scales' article, and an example of the finish obtained in the 'Hand Turning Rest' article.
The advantage of the round tool is that; although it is usually set at about 45 degrees, it can be presented more vertically when approaching a shoulder.
Ditch the emery..
|Thread: Compressed air on lathe|
Here's my twopenn'orth,
I agree with David regarding the use of a vacuum cleaner; but....there are cleaners and cleaners.
I have used for some time a Workshop Cleaner, the type which is wet or dry, with the facility to plug in power tools allowing the cleaner to start up when the tool is switched on.
Although this comes into its own when connected to woodworking tools; routers, planers etc. keeping everything clean and dust free, I use it a lot with the metalworking machines during machining and when doing a clean up.
It is a boon when working on cast iron and brass and also getting the fine splinters from some milling operations.
Because it doesn't have a bag, swarf contaminated with coolant isn't really a problem and it removes bits from all the hard to get at places.
The only thing to watch is to clean the end of the nozzle as it also used in the car.
Suck it up
|Thread: ER32 etc collets|
I agree, I use ER 32 colets on my lathe, spin indexer and dividing head, also on the mill until I changed to ER 20 here; to gain better access with the smaller closing nut.
I also use the ER 20 collets on a Worden grinder, as they cover metric and imperial shank cutters. I have also made a chuck to use them on a Cowells lathe. Making the chucks is quite straight forward, but I cheat and buy the closing nuts which are reasonably priced.
My lathe has a 3 MT which will pass 20mm using the ER 32 collet. If you use a 3 MT holder, you will need a drawbar and will loose this advantage.
My collets and closing nuts and a backplate fitting chuck for the lathe came from Arc Eurotrade, (usual disclaimer) and are of very good quality and also reasonably priced.
Go for it
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