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Member postings for YouraT

Here is a list of all the postings YouraT has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: universal pillar tool long arm castings
16/08/2021 15:56:28
Posted by Martin Kyte on 16/08/2021 14:49:51:

You could always make a cranked column. Couple of bits of PGMS and some 1 1/4 by 3/4" bar. Bore holes to suit the column, Loctite the whole to together and saw away the waste. Bit like a gap bed lathe. You only need to accomodate clockplates as you say and that way you can use all the fittings from your existing pillar tool.

How about that for thinking outside the box.

regards Martin

Martin

Genius idea!

I even have a bed like that for my little 8mm Boley watchmaker's lathe - maintaining of alignment is effectively built in, and it avoids having to make any more of those fiddly little clamping handles!

Youra.

16/08/2021 13:47:04
Posted by bernard towers on 15/08/2021 20:58:18:

Sorry but I thought that the idea behind GHTs Upt was the fact that it was for model makers. If you want bigger use a run of the mill drilling machine, it will also have a decent size column.

Well, I don't need enormous rigidity - I'm a clockmaker and use mine for bushing and staking purposes, so little in any side forces during use.

Making the arms pretty is a secondary concern, although them not being actively painful to look at is of course a plus

Using a nicely made and finished tool is always more of a pleasure than using a poorly finished one...

Y.

14/08/2021 23:17:59
Posted by Mike Poole on 14/08/2021 19:33:28:

Cast iron square bar could be a substitute, depending on how much trouble you want to go to is could pass for a casting after much work

Mike

Mike,

That's actually a smashing idea in this situation, don't really need it to pass for a casting, but might turn away some of the excess between the two ends.

14/08/2021 23:07:51
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 14/08/2021 19:12:05:

Why not adapt a bench-top pillar drill ?

I've already built and use the standard version, just occasionally need slightly more reach....

14/08/2021 19:05:08
Posted by DiogenesII on 14/08/2021 17:38:18:

Reeves?

Sadly not....

14/08/2021 17:14:45

Hi.

Does anyone know of a source for, or perhaps have a spare set of, the castings for the longer arm version of the UPT?

Hemingway don't do them, and buying them from Martin Model in the US results in some eye watering costs, mainly due to postage charges.

I've seen a build somewhere which fabricated some using cast pipe fittings, but I thought maybe finding a more local source of the castings might be an easier route....

Thanks,

Youra.

Thread: Which *simple* mobile steam model?
17/06/2021 22:14:14

Thanks guys

Further feedback from the young man in question has aimed things firmly at the MyfordBoy traction engine - we don't want to have to make/find/lay track to run it, and the price of the casting set is sensible, so we're going that way.

Thanks for the feedback!

Y.

16/06/2021 17:59:28

Thanks guys

The MyfordBoy traction engine seems a very good possibility - I'll see what my son thinks - he's already just rejected the idea of a steam boat, even though I rather fancy one....!

Y.

16/06/2021 13:59:08

Hi all.

My son has expressed an interest in making a mobile (road, track, something...) steam model with me over the summer holidays.

I have a decently equipped workshop, but have always leant towards clocks and the tools required for them rather than anything model or steam related.

My question is - any tips and pointers towards a published design for a steam model that will:

- move under its own power
- *might* take to having RC added for steering
- is preferably gas fired
- and most importantly, will be easy to complete over a relatively short number of weeks with me and an 11yo boy doing the work (him under close supervision, of course).

Faithful resemblance to a full scale steam machine is of no consequence whatsoever, simplicity is the name of the game.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Youra.

Thread: 30 hour clock electric winder
09/06/2021 11:49:03

Michael,

Yes, thanks for that - I've just opened my copy and saw that too - alterations required for my rope drive, but some good ideas!

Good name too

Y.

18/05/2021 22:15:01

Peter - thank you for the pictures - nice build!

Duncan - that's a possibility - I'm not exactly sure how everything is going to look just yet, and how I'll feel about routing the wires...

John - I understand your point - the task is to build a traditional clock (in most ways anyway...) - I want something up my sleeve in case the daily winding gets on my nerves, or I forget often enough for it to be a pain!

Rite Time have the "Horological Miscellanies" book for £25, which they tell me includes the BHI articles (with later updates) and a number of other articles which appear of interest, so I think I may well get that. I've located the HJ articles, but I think the other book content will make it worth it.

18/05/2021 16:19:24

Thanks all.

I have access to the HJ issues, and I'll look them up next weekend.

I've also asked for the price list from RiteTime, and might get the Horological Miscellanies book assuming there are updates worth worrying about in it.

It's a rope wind I want it for - I'm building a clock at the moment with a Hugens endless rope winding arrangement, and don't really want to re-invent the wheel!

Cheers,

Youra.

17/05/2021 20:41:40

John Wilding apparently had two publications with a design for an electric rewinder for 30hr long case clocks - one dedicated book, and a chapter in his "horological miscellanies" book.

Does anyone know if there is a difference between the two designs, or could recommend which one to track down?

Thanks,

Youra.

Thread: Multico high speed drill info
08/05/2021 18:04:57

All,

Success - new bearing in, and now nice and quiet - no more bags of spanners !

Thanks for all the pointers and enthusiasm!

Youra.

06/05/2021 15:18:06

All,

I've had a little bit of a fiddle over the past couple of days, and as far as I can tell the problem bearing is the one in the black cap that attaches the lever to the top of the spindle - sounds like a tin of ball bearings.....!

After taking out the pin that holds the lever to the cap, and removing the three little clips that stop everything falling out, the bearing is a pretty standard 6000-2RSH 26x10x8 type, so I have a new one on the way, and with any luck everything will be a lot quieter.

I can't detect any nasties on the main spindle bearings (and in fact I've stopped taking things apart at this point), but I guess the proof of that particular pudding will be when everything's back together.

cap_bearing.jpg

shaft_top.jpg

Cheers,

Youra

Edited By YouraT on 06/05/2021 15:38:16

28/04/2021 21:57:25

Pete,

Thanks for that - very useful - I'll have a play with mine in a weekend or two when I can afford for it to be out of action for a while!

Cheers,

Youra.

17/04/2021 12:05:42

I'm slightly confused by you saying the bearings are noisy, but don't want to take it apart as it's ’running nicely’ ?

Pete,

fair point. It's a little noisy (to the ear), but when I say it's running nicely, I mean that there's no excessive run-out or mechanical vibration that's affecting its use for the small holes (all sub 1.5mm, I use it for cross-drilling clock arbors and the like) I'm using it for - YET.

The RTD version we have at college is whisper quiet in comparison. I've already made a substantial improvement to the overall noise by replacing the belt that was on it when I got it, but there's a way to go yet.

I was looking for any service instructions mostly to work out how big a job it would be to take it apart, lubricate it and possibly even replace the bearings if that's what's necessary - what I really don't want is to strip it down and then discover that the bearing preload is set by grinding the odd micron off a spacer ring, as is the case in some lathes I've come across!

I'll update this thread with any progress!

Y.

16/04/2021 13:42:08
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 16/04/2021 12:22:43:

Another recent thread [but the same dead-ends]: **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=150687

I think you should ‘reverse engineer’ yours, Youra ... and write the manual, pro bono devil

MichaelG.

Thanks Michael

I might end up doing that if the noises get worse - just reluctant to tear it apart while it's still running nicely and not giving me run-out problems!

Y.

16/04/2021 10:20:20

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 16/04/2021 10:02:57:

Dr. Dave had a similar enquiry **LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=139922&p=11

... but apparently drew a blank with the links that I provided.

It looks a mighty useful machine [deep throat], so I hope you have more joy.

MichaelG.

Thanks Michael

As best as I've been able to work out, the Multico name has changed hands a *number* of times, and the manufacture of this particular little drill was at one point taken over by RTD Ltd, who have also gone the way of the Dodo, so info finding is going to be tough!

Youra.

16/04/2021 09:23:37

Hi all.

I have a high speed (10,000rpm top whack) bench drill by Multico (identical to the light grey one in the picture) and which I think is identical to a later RTD Model J unit (darker grey image). Working well, but slightly noisy spindle bearings compared to another one I have used - does anyone have a copy of the service instructions for these, or know where I could find them?

Thanks!

multico_1.jpg

multico_2.jpg

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