Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bassett-Lowke 2 1/2 inch flying scotsman|
Have sent you a pm regarding drawings.
So far as I am aware, the BL Scotsman was designed by E W Twining and had nothing to do with Henry Greenly.
HG did produce some excellent coal fired 2½" gauge designs for Bonds of Euston road which are quite capable of pulling a person or two. It was just Bassett Lowke that seemed to not want to progress beyond simple spirit fired boilers.
|Thread: PTFE piston rings|
I've used them on several 2½" gauge locos with excellent results. Also used PTFE on piston valve heads with equally good results. With these smaller bores though I haven't used backing O rings and just relied on the plain PTFE rings on their own. I fit two thin rings side by side with the gaps 180° apart to prevent leakage. It is essential to allow clearance for expansion when the rings get hot.
I haven't done it yet but I've thought of using graphite filled PTFE for the rings as this material is harder and springier than virgin PTFE and may not need the backing O rings in the larger sizes.
|Thread: 2 1/2" Gauge Dyak|
the drawings show the safety valve bushes as threaded 3/8" x 26.
|Thread: Brittania superheater|
I would think that the 4mm bore to feed the regulator is far too small for a 5" loco. I use larger than that for a 2½" gauge!
Is your problem with silver soldering the leak on the foundation ring simply due to a lack of heat? You're going to need a hell of a lot of heat to get it hot enough. Are you using a propane torch or do you have oxy acetylene or similar?
Edited By John Baguley on 08/05/2016 19:26:39
|Thread: Boiler Paint nightmare|
Have you tried Halfords high temperature enamel? I used it on my Helen Long smokebox and it's still good after 8 years. They do matt, satin, and gloss versions.
|Thread: denham junior mk2|
Yes, it's got 8 divisions. You might be able to get a suitable gear ready made or perhaps adapt a complete unit from a lathe with the same size leadscrew (4tpi) if there is one.
Will send you a pm with regard to the manual.
This is the dial fitted to mine:
I don't think it's an original part though as it looks homemade. I've had a look at the manual and there is no mention of a screw cutting dial so possibly the lathes didn't have one when originally built. I would expect one fitted at the factory would have had a cast body.
It looks pretty easy to make one. Couple of bits of bar soldered or welded together, with a spindle, dial, and gear wheel.
Just had another look at the manual and there should be a leadscrew guard that bolts onto the end of the apron where mine has the dial. That was obviously taken off and lost when the dial was fitted.
Edited By John Baguley on 25/02/2016 12:14:42
Edited By John Baguley on 25/02/2016 12:23:41
|Thread: Wet Belt|
My Triumph T160 with Norman Hyde 1000cc kit has a Norman Hyde toothed belt conversion to replace the old Triplex? primary chain. Hasn't been on the road for a few years now (must get it rebuilt!) but never gave any trouble when it was running. The belt's not rubber though. Can't remember what material it is offhand but some type of plastic (polyurethane?) I think.
|Thread: Superheater elements|
The ones I've made so far have all had the return bends silver soldered with Silverflo 24. No problems with them yet, touch wood! I've now got some Silverflo 20 so will use that next time. I use fully radiant superheaters with the return bends right at the back of the firebox so they keep a bit cooler. Would be nice to be able to TIG weld them though.
|Thread: Steam Engine Design|
As Julian says, I made a study of the Jim Ewins formulae and converted them to easy to use spreadsheets.
Also, as Julian says, the formulae are not the be all and end all and they don't 'fit' a lot of published designs, not that that itself means the formulae are wrong. It could well be the designs that are wrong. Jim really just came up with his formulae to try and establish design criteria based on some published designs, some of which worked well, and some not so well.
After much thought on the subject I think the critical areas to concentrate on are the engine factor Ee and the free gas area of the tubes versus the area of the grate. Personally, I now don't think the Keiller factor Kt is of any importance in 'our' sizes. It's pretty much accepted that only the first few inches of the tubes contribute much to the heating effect as the flow is laminar rather than turbulent in such small tubes so the length is pretty immaterial within reason. That also means the boiler factor Eb is not really valid and I think can be ignored.
So, my latest thoughts are that you should design the grate area to match the cylinders (steam consumption) and then try and get enough tubes in the boiler to match that grate area i.e. 12 - 15%. Also, fit a properly designed valve gear to make the best use of the steam produced. Most published designs have pretty poor valve gears. Oh, and use as much superheat as you can get to increase efficiency!
|Thread: Lathe paint|
Smith and Alan list it as Dark Grey BS632.
|Thread: Myford rear toolpost|
I had cause to measure the centre height of my ML7 from the top of the cross-slide a few years back and I got it to be 2.0625".
|Thread: Photos of my Henry Milnes Lathe (for Ralph)|
No, there's no means of locking the spindle. I just put it into the lowest gear to remove chucks etc. I've only got one chuck useable at the moment and I need to machine some more backplates to suit some others that I've got. Unfortunately, the spindle thread is not a common size so ready made backplates aren't available.
I've completely rebuilt mine and repainted it. It came from a friend who bought it over 40 years ago from a government surplus supplier. There's a plate on it which says it came from the Royal Radar Establishment and another which says it was refurbished in 1955. It had just sat on my friend's garage floor for the 40 years and unfortunately most of the headstock bearings had developed pits in the inner and outer races due to the spindle remaining in the same position for all that time. All but the two main bearings at the chuck end of the spindle had to be replaced.
Yes, it's virtually identical to my Denham Junior Mk 2.
Looks like yours has raising blocks though to increase the centre height?
|Thread: 'Brev' one way water top up valve? SM32 live steam loco|
It sounds like it's what is known as a 'Goodall?' Valve.
These are usually filled from a spray type pressure bottle with a length of tube on the end that fits onto the valve.
|Thread: Class 2 Standard 2-6-0 by Don Young|
The loco was described in 8 parts in issues 35,36,37,39,40,41,42, and 43 (Note not 38).
Copies of LLAS are quite hard to come by so if you are stuck, let me know as I have a full set.
|Thread: Show Us Your First Steps|
My first effort made at school when I was about 15. Double acting oscillator of about 3/4" bore I think. Never did make a boiler for it but it runs on a few psi of air.
Edited By John Baguley on 13/11/2015 12:44:57
|Thread: Engineering videos|
Thanks for the link Michael. I've got the Soba version and having watched the video I now realise you can adjust the backlash (mine's got quite a bit!) so it was worth spending the time watching it
|Thread: Loco 1831|
I've got nearly a complete set of MEs so if you can't get the issues you need I can sort you out with some copies of the articles.
I think in a later issue there may have been an improved drive system described?
|Thread: Tracking the sun's movement|
Back in the days when I was playing about with solar panels and wind turbines I built a solar tracker for two panels. I forget where I got the circuit from but it used 4 LEDs as photo sensors that drove a geared motor. The panels were mounted on an equatorilal mount that I bodged up from an old telescope mount I made years ago.
Very simple circuit and it tracked the sun perfectly. When it got dark it automatically drove the panels back to facing east ready for the next day. The mount was fitted with limit switches to prevent the panels moving too far.
The angle of elevation was adjusted manually every week or so by a threaded rod.
Used the panels to charge a 12 volt battery. I ran the house lights off it via an inverter until the battery was knackered. Was fine in the summer but the panels couldn't keep up with the winter demand. Not enough sun!
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.