Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Superheater elements|
The ones I've made so far have all had the return bends silver soldered with Silverflo 24. No problems with them yet, touch wood! I've now got some Silverflo 20 so will use that next time. I use fully radiant superheaters with the return bends right at the back of the firebox so they keep a bit cooler. Would be nice to be able to TIG weld them though.
|Thread: Steam Engine Design|
As Julian says, I made a study of the Jim Ewins formulae and converted them to easy to use spreadsheets.
Also, as Julian says, the formulae are not the be all and end all and they don't 'fit' a lot of published designs, not that that itself means the formulae are wrong. It could well be the designs that are wrong. Jim really just came up with his formulae to try and establish design criteria based on some published designs, some of which worked well, and some not so well.
After much thought on the subject I think the critical areas to concentrate on are the engine factor Ee and the free gas area of the tubes versus the area of the grate. Personally, I now don't think the Keiller factor Kt is of any importance in 'our' sizes. It's pretty much accepted that only the first few inches of the tubes contribute much to the heating effect as the flow is laminar rather than turbulent in such small tubes so the length is pretty immaterial within reason. That also means the boiler factor Eb is not really valid and I think can be ignored.
So, my latest thoughts are that you should design the grate area to match the cylinders (steam consumption) and then try and get enough tubes in the boiler to match that grate area i.e. 12 - 15%. Also, fit a properly designed valve gear to make the best use of the steam produced. Most published designs have pretty poor valve gears. Oh, and use as much superheat as you can get to increase efficiency!
|Thread: Lathe paint|
Smith and Alan list it as Dark Grey BS632.
|Thread: Myford rear toolpost|
I had cause to measure the centre height of my ML7 from the top of the cross-slide a few years back and I got it to be 2.0625".
|Thread: Photos of my Henry Milnes Lathe (for Ralph)|
No, there's no means of locking the spindle. I just put it into the lowest gear to remove chucks etc. I've only got one chuck useable at the moment and I need to machine some more backplates to suit some others that I've got. Unfortunately, the spindle thread is not a common size so ready made backplates aren't available.
I've completely rebuilt mine and repainted it. It came from a friend who bought it over 40 years ago from a government surplus supplier. There's a plate on it which says it came from the Royal Radar Establishment and another which says it was refurbished in 1955. It had just sat on my friend's garage floor for the 40 years and unfortunately most of the headstock bearings had developed pits in the inner and outer races due to the spindle remaining in the same position for all that time. All but the two main bearings at the chuck end of the spindle had to be replaced.
Yes, it's virtually identical to my Denham Junior Mk 2.
Looks like yours has raising blocks though to increase the centre height?
|Thread: 'Brev' one way water top up valve? SM32 live steam loco|
It sounds like it's what is known as a 'Goodall?' Valve.
These are usually filled from a spray type pressure bottle with a length of tube on the end that fits onto the valve.
|Thread: Class 2 Standard 2-6-0 by Don Young|
The loco was described in 8 parts in issues 35,36,37,39,40,41,42, and 43 (Note not 38).
Copies of LLAS are quite hard to come by so if you are stuck, let me know as I have a full set.
|Thread: Show Us Your First Steps|
My first effort made at school when I was about 15. Double acting oscillator of about 3/4" bore I think. Never did make a boiler for it but it runs on a few psi of air.
Edited By John Baguley on 13/11/2015 12:44:57
|Thread: Engineering videos|
Thanks for the link Michael. I've got the Soba version and having watched the video I now realise you can adjust the backlash (mine's got quite a bit!) so it was worth spending the time watching it
|Thread: Loco 1831|
I've got nearly a complete set of MEs so if you can't get the issues you need I can sort you out with some copies of the articles.
I think in a later issue there may have been an improved drive system described?
|Thread: Tracking the sun's movement|
Back in the days when I was playing about with solar panels and wind turbines I built a solar tracker for two panels. I forget where I got the circuit from but it used 4 LEDs as photo sensors that drove a geared motor. The panels were mounted on an equatorilal mount that I bodged up from an old telescope mount I made years ago.
Very simple circuit and it tracked the sun perfectly. When it got dark it automatically drove the panels back to facing east ready for the next day. The mount was fitted with limit switches to prevent the panels moving too far.
The angle of elevation was adjusted manually every week or so by a threaded rod.
Used the panels to charge a 12 volt battery. I ran the house lights off it via an inverter until the battery was knackered. Was fine in the summer but the panels couldn't keep up with the winter demand. Not enough sun!
|Thread: Sulphuric acid|
I get 96% sulphuric acid from APC Pure:
Probably cheaper if you want something like 2.5 ltrs (£11.95). Only problem is the carriage is a bit expensive (£8?) as it has to be sent by courier but not bad if you want a few items. They also sell citric acid in bulk quantities and other hard to get chemicals. Very fast delivery as well.
|Thread: Valve Gear Simulator Software|
Like Ady, I use Win XP Pro with no problems with any of the simulators out there. I used to use the Dockstader simulators with Win 98. Can't comment on any of the later versions of Windoze though as I've never used them.
|Thread: super Heaters|
I suspect that is the problem with the coaxial design. The incoming cooler steam must cool the outgoing hotter steam so any heat gain is cancelled out. I think the reasoning behind the design was that they are supposed to be easier to make as you don't need the fiddly return bend on the firebox end.
I am a big fan of superheat, the higher the better, and woudn't build a loco without it. It does make a big difference to the performance of the loco despite what the negative people will tell you. Less water and coal used and much livelier performance. With an unsuperheated version you get a shower every time you run, especially in cold weather, and you can't see where you are going half the time. Fully radiant versions that extend over the fire are far more effective than ones that just sit in the flues. They just dry the steam a bit but don't increase it's temperature very much. Go for it! Superheaters are not difficult to make. Forget the coax type though. Doug Hewson did some tests that showed they were pretty useless compared to the proper hairpin type.
|Thread: Lathe paint|
Another vote for Tractol. I got mine off Ebay as Smith and Allan have a shop on there. May be cheaper direct. Take care if you use the industrial etch primer as it's quite nasty stuff. You need to wear a mask and have plenty of ventillation. I got a very good finish just using a brush.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Spent the day at the Exhibition on the National 2½" Gauge stand. Very busy. Left home at 06.15am to avoid getting stuck in the works traffic. Got there for 08.00am. Last year I left at 07.00am and it took me 2½ hours! Same again for the next 3 days. No traffic though on Saturday and Sunday so can leave home later thank goodness!
|Thread: 3 1/2" gauge wheel casting indentity help|
Just happen to have a copy of this on the computer:
|Thread: 08 Shunter in 2 1/2" Gauge|
Following Jason's suggestion have a look at Technobots website. They sell small chain and sprockets. They also have a sister company with a greater range.
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