Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: TIG welding copper boilers.|
Your biggest problem will be getting it tested if you want to use the boiler in public. The average club boiler inspector won't be qualified to test a welded copper boiler and probably won't touch it with a barge pole, especially if it is welded by a non coded welder. You are going to be looking at having it tested by a relevant professional tester at possibly considerable expense.
Good luck if you do decide to go ahead though.
Edited By John Baguley on 07/08/2017 03:34:13
|Thread: Investment casting|
I don't think that is the Abby who posts on the forums. That will be Dan Hobbs of Union Steam Model Company
He does do investment casting and may be able to help with a small run.
|Thread: Liquified Poison Gas|
Yes, he was refering to methylated spirits.
|Thread: HF fluorescent lights|
That only applies to ordinary fluorescents working at 50Hz. The modern high frequency ballasts work in the KHz range and don't cause any stroboscopic effect.
|Thread: LBSCs victoria|
Yes, I see that I did send you a set of drawings back in May,
On the original sheet 1 the position of the rear cylinder mounting holes was shown as 4-5/8" from the driving axle but this distance should have been 4-3/4". This moves the cylinder mounting holes 1/8" further forward.
I think there have been a few versions of Rose built but I don't have any photos of any of them unfortunately. Is yours the coal fired version or the meths fired?
Having looked into it even further, it seems that although I sent an amended drawing to the person who was in charge of the N25GA drawings at the time, the sheet with the error may not have been replaced with the updated one and so we continued to sell the drawing with the error. I can only apologise to anyone who bought a set of the drawings. The drawings that I sent to Marc Horowitz were the updated ones which is why he never had a problem,
Edited By John Baguley on 08/07/2017 20:06:08
I've just had a look at the relevant page on my website and I did make a mistake in the position of the 4 holes for mounting the cylinder. The error was corrected in later versions of the drawings.
Out of interest, which drawings are you using for Victoria?
I produced a set of CAD drawings which were based on an original set of blueprints by Donaldson and Piper. I've had a quick look and it looks as though there should be plenty of clearance between the axle box and the cylinder block. The flange on the axle box may come close to the cylinder end cover at the top of it's travel though.
I have got a set of original castings for Victoria myself but the build is on the 'roundtuit' list! Steve Eaton built a coal fired version some years ago which has hauled him around the Chesterfield club track. It needed a bit of help starting off but managed to get around without further assistance.
Marc Horowitz also built a Victoria to my CAD drawings. I asked him to let me know if he found any errors or problems but he didn't mention finding anything wrong (unless he didn't bother to tell me)
Re Rose - I have the original pencil drawings by LBSC which were kindy donated to the 2½" Gauge Association by a gentleman in the USA. They are a work of art and really nice to look at. They show that LBSC was much better at drawing than he made out in his articles. I've heard that he used to send some of his drawings to friends as gifts.
|Thread: Parting tool holder - has anyone had this problem?|
Yes, had the same problem with my ML7. I also had to grind the top of the parting blade to get it low enough.
|Thread: Kennet Tool and Cutter Grinder|
Sorry for the late reply.
The wheels that came with the kit are:
1 off 100mm x 40mm straight cup Green grit - code number GC80-K42
1 off 100mm x 40mm straight cup white aluminium oxide
1 off 75mm x 10mm plain disc white aluminium oxide
1 off 50mm x 25mm taper cup white aluminium oxide
2 off 80mm dish white aluminium oxide
The wheels are all 12.7mm bore and 80 grit and labelled Consort. The white whels are all coded WA80-JV1.
The motor that I used was one I had to hand and is 1440rpm. The small pulley is approx. 1.5" diameter and the large approx 5.2" diameter giving a ratio of approx. 3.5. This will give a spindle speed of approx. 5000rpm.
Hope that helps,
Edited By John Baguley on 10/06/2017 11:23:18
I bought the complete kit from MES and the wheels came with it. I can measure them up if it would help.
|Thread: Bee Keeping|
The Pyracantha bush outside my patio doors is just coming into flower and there are dozens of bumble bees on it. Must be a nest nearby somewhere. A few years ago, it was over nextdoors kitchen window which they weren't too chuffed about and sprayed it with chemicals. I would have just left them to it.
|Thread: Internet scam?|
The number did come up as 'unavailable' and I normally ignore these but I was expecting a call from the local doctor's surgery (which usually come up as 'number witheld) so I answered it.
I shall carry on ignoring the 'number unavailable' calls in the future
I have just had a phone call from an indian lady claiming to be from BT.
She said she was ringing to let me know that 'someone' was trying to hack my internet connection and was I aware of this. After a few questions from her I decided that the call sounded rather suspicious and put the phone down.
Has anyone else experienced anything similar? Just wondering if it is some sort of scam.
|Thread: Mabel, lbsc|
I think you will find that the only full set of drawings for Mabel is for the 3½" gauge version which is available from Reeves.
|Thread: Simplex Superheater Details|
the superheater is a single out and back made from 7/16" x 20g stainless tube. It is a fully radiant type extending right to the back of the firebox.
|Thread: Rob Roy Boiler|
I think it would be a devil of a job to try and remove the backhead at this late stage of the game although I do see your point. I think you would probably finish up wrecking the boiler.
Edited By John Baguley on 13/05/2017 17:09:38
You shouldn't have a problem silver soldering in the bushes on the front tubeplate. Just make sure that you flux all the exising joints as they may well melt again.
I've added bushes on the backheads of a couple of Tich boilers for someone without problems and that is much harder than working on the front tubeplate.
One point about having to extend the firebox sides on such as Rob Roy boilers - offset the cut in the barrel for the part that has to be folded down to make the firebox sides such that you only have to extend the one side. Just makes it a little easier. I prefer to make the firebox wrapper as a separate piece and joined to the barrel with a joint ring or an overlapping joint. That eliminates the need for the extension pieces.
I opted to use 1/8" rivets when I built the boiler for my Helen Long. These were threaded 5BA and put in with the heads on the outside and brass nuts on the inside of the firebox. I didn't fancy trying to silver solder the stays inside the very narrow firebox so opted for the brass nuts caulked with Comsol. It's a method that I personally as a boiler inspector don't have a problem with and I think it's a much easier way for a beginner to get a good boiler until they gain more experience. The heads of the stays were siver soldered on the outside as this is relatively easy to do.
The outer wrapper and the firebox wrapper are both 1/16" (1.6mm) copper and the original stay spacing by LBSC was given as 3/4 x 3/4. I consider this too far apart for 1/16" copper sheet and reduced it to 5/8 x 5/8.
|Thread: Myford paint colour|
Not at the moment. I've got a poorly leg and can barely get up and down the stairs at all
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