Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Parting tool holder - has anyone had this problem?|
Yes, had the same problem with my ML7. I also had to grind the top of the parting blade to get it low enough.
|Thread: Kennet Tool and Cutter Grinder|
Sorry for the late reply.
The wheels that came with the kit are:
1 off 100mm x 40mm straight cup Green grit - code number GC80-K42
1 off 100mm x 40mm straight cup white aluminium oxide
1 off 75mm x 10mm plain disc white aluminium oxide
1 off 50mm x 25mm taper cup white aluminium oxide
2 off 80mm dish white aluminium oxide
The wheels are all 12.7mm bore and 80 grit and labelled Consort. The white whels are all coded WA80-JV1.
The motor that I used was one I had to hand and is 1440rpm. The small pulley is approx. 1.5" diameter and the large approx 5.2" diameter giving a ratio of approx. 3.5. This will give a spindle speed of approx. 5000rpm.
Hope that helps,
Edited By John Baguley on 10/06/2017 11:23:18
I bought the complete kit from MES and the wheels came with it. I can measure them up if it would help.
|Thread: Bee Keeping|
The Pyracantha bush outside my patio doors is just coming into flower and there are dozens of bumble bees on it. Must be a nest nearby somewhere. A few years ago, it was over nextdoors kitchen window which they weren't too chuffed about and sprayed it with chemicals. I would have just left them to it.
|Thread: Internet scam?|
The number did come up as 'unavailable' and I normally ignore these but I was expecting a call from the local doctor's surgery (which usually come up as 'number witheld) so I answered it.
I shall carry on ignoring the 'number unavailable' calls in the future
I have just had a phone call from an indian lady claiming to be from BT.
She said she was ringing to let me know that 'someone' was trying to hack my internet connection and was I aware of this. After a few questions from her I decided that the call sounded rather suspicious and put the phone down.
Has anyone else experienced anything similar? Just wondering if it is some sort of scam.
|Thread: Mabel, lbsc|
I think you will find that the only full set of drawings for Mabel is for the 3½" gauge version which is available from Reeves.
|Thread: Simplex Superheater Details|
the superheater is a single out and back made from 7/16" x 20g stainless tube. It is a fully radiant type extending right to the back of the firebox.
|Thread: Rob Roy Boiler|
I think it would be a devil of a job to try and remove the backhead at this late stage of the game although I do see your point. I think you would probably finish up wrecking the boiler.
Edited By John Baguley on 13/05/2017 17:09:38
You shouldn't have a problem silver soldering in the bushes on the front tubeplate. Just make sure that you flux all the exising joints as they may well melt again.
I've added bushes on the backheads of a couple of Tich boilers for someone without problems and that is much harder than working on the front tubeplate.
One point about having to extend the firebox sides on such as Rob Roy boilers - offset the cut in the barrel for the part that has to be folded down to make the firebox sides such that you only have to extend the one side. Just makes it a little easier. I prefer to make the firebox wrapper as a separate piece and joined to the barrel with a joint ring or an overlapping joint. That eliminates the need for the extension pieces.
I opted to use 1/8" rivets when I built the boiler for my Helen Long. These were threaded 5BA and put in with the heads on the outside and brass nuts on the inside of the firebox. I didn't fancy trying to silver solder the stays inside the very narrow firebox so opted for the brass nuts caulked with Comsol. It's a method that I personally as a boiler inspector don't have a problem with and I think it's a much easier way for a beginner to get a good boiler until they gain more experience. The heads of the stays were siver soldered on the outside as this is relatively easy to do.
The outer wrapper and the firebox wrapper are both 1/16" (1.6mm) copper and the original stay spacing by LBSC was given as 3/4 x 3/4. I consider this too far apart for 1/16" copper sheet and reduced it to 5/8 x 5/8.
|Thread: Myford paint colour|
Not at the moment. I've got a poorly leg and can barely get up and down the stairs at all
|Thread: Using nitrile balls in clack valves|
I've used O ring seats for clack valves with success after seeing an article by Jim Ewins on his Loadstar locomotive. Just make sure that the O ring is retained so that it can't lift with the ball. They make good check valves for lubricator oil supplies.
A commercial design of clack valve uses a poppet fitted with an O ring that seals on a flat seat.
A possible alternative to stainless balls is silicon nitride (ceramic) balls. These are said to be harder than and have a better surface finish than steel. Not my idea but Roger Froud on the MECH forum is using them in his Speedy build. It will be interesting to see how they work out.
|Thread: Myford paint colour|
A bit like when you dash upstairs for something and forget why!
|Thread: Table 2 Query : The Missing 98%, ME4558|
Row 5 should read 'Heat transferred in firetubes'.
Jim's original articles appeared in ME 1966, March 18th, April 1st, and the table in 20th May.
Edited By John Baguley on 08/04/2017 15:25:20
|Thread: Myford paint colour|
1973 - Red
|Thread: Rivet and Bolt cropping|
I drill a clearance hole through a suitable thickness piece of steel, push the bolt,screw/rivet through, hold in place with a file handle or similar, and then cut off the surplus with a fine tooth saw. A rub over the end with a fine file gets rid of any burrs. If you have a lot to do it would be better to harden the steel so it doesn't get worn down by the saw so easily.
I tend to buy the longer length bolts as they are not much more expensive than short ones and it saves keeping a large stock of different sizes.
Mike Boddy in Australia designed and had made a cutting tool very similar to the crimping pliers but specifically for bolt shortening. I've got one of his prototype sets in the workshop and they work very well. I think they cover BA and metric sizes. He was looking to find someone to import them for him to keep down the cost but I don't know what the situation is at the moment.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Hopefully there will be a shear pin somewhere in the drive train to the leadscrew. If so, that will probably have gone.
|Thread: Local mirror silvering services ?|
Those books were my bible as well and I still have them, although I gave up astronomy many years ago now.
I used to send mine off to be aluminised and overcoated. Can't remember where now but I presume such firms still exist?
I did silver a 12" mirror myself once which wasn't particularly difficult. The problem nowadays would be getting hold of the chemicals - IIRC silver nitrate, concentrated nitric acid (for cleaning the glass), ammonia, sodium hydroxide, and dextrose. I got my chemicals from the local chemist but those days have long gone unfortunately.
Silvering can be a bit nerve racking as you can get silver fulminate formed during the process if you don't mix the chemicals properly!
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