Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Linked belt for Myford 7|
Last year I replaced the plain Vee belts on my ML7 with cogged Vee belts. These are more flexible than the plain type and made a big difference to the smoothness of the lathe. It's only a 10 minute job to take the spindle out to change the belt.
I discovered the cogged belts after having vibration problems with my mill after getting rid of the standard twin belt stepped pulley drive and fitting a single belt 3 phase inverter drive. With a conventional Vee belt I got horrendous vibration due to the long belt flapping about. I looked at linked belts and promptly decided against them due to the price! As a last resort I tried a cogged belt and that transformed things immediately. There is still a slight vibration at higher speeds but nothing like it was with the conventional belt.
|Thread: Rob Roy lubricator to valve chest connections|
Yes, it's a pretty naff design really. A better way would be to have the steam enter the steamchest on the front edge via a couple of flanged elbows. I might alter the chassis that I've got to do that when I get around to completing the loco.
Here you go - a couple of photos of a chassis that I picked up last year:
The oil pipe from the lubricator feeds into a clack screwed into the front of the block in the middle of the steam manifold.
Hope that helps
|Thread: Screw Regulator dimensions|
The PEEK that I used (because I had some!) was a bearing grade PEEK that contains carbon fibre, graphite and PTFE (Ketron PEEK-HPV). I originally got a 300mm length from RS but they don't seem to have that grade anymore. They do have black PEEK that contains carbon but it's not cheap!
I then got a 1 metre length of similar bearing grade PEEK from Davis Industrial Plastics (Bunaday on Ebay). They do list the ordinary plain PEEK on Ebay. That may be suitable but I've never tried it.
The bearing grade PEEK takes threads very well which was necessary in my design as the block screws into the end of the regulator body and the steam pipe screws into the block. It also makes a perfect seal which is useful when you are doing a hydraulic test.
If you struggle to find anything suitable, I've still got some 12mm diameter left and could send you a couple of inches.
You could possibly use PTFE or maybe the carbon filled PTFE which is a bit harder?
My Helen Longish has a screw down regulator. The thread is 3/8" BSW, the hole in the port face is 3/16" and the angle on the end of the valve spindle is 120°. The loco has 3 off 7/8" bore cylinders and for normal running I never have to open the regulator more than 1/8 of a turn. Use a quarter turn and she takes off like a scalded cat!
The end fitting that has the port face is made from bearing grade PEEK which avoids the problem of the regulator seizing up if fitted with a metal port face and you forget to open the regulator when the boiler cools down.
|Thread: Digital readout|
I ordered one direct from China a couple of years ago. I had to pay about £20 VAT and duty but it was still half the price of one bought from the UK. It took about two weeks to arrive.
|Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing|
Silver soldering as we think of it should really be called silver brazing as mentioned by Mike. Any joining process involving temperatures over 450°C(?) is classed as brazing, below that is classed as soldering.
A friend of mine in our club has had it for a few years but he keeps fighting it by, as mentioned, keeping his brain active. He's designed and built two superb 2½" gauge locos and is now working on a third. He's also building a Vee twin petrol engine and a hit and miss engine. He's determined to carry on model engineering as long as he possibly can. He puts a lot of us too shame!
To make matters worse, he's also got Parkinson's which is slowly getting worse, but he takes it all in good heart and doesn't let it get him down. I think that is what helps to keep him going.
|Thread: Chinese DRO opinions|
I bought a very similar set from China a couple of years ago for the mill and I've been very happy with it. I didn't go for the cheapest though. I got a Sinpo brand which seems to have a pretty good reputation which was around £200. It took two weeks to arrive which was no problem and I had to pay £21 VAT etc. I would certainly purchase direct from China again when I want another one.
|Thread: Only for Myford lathes|
It's been used pretty much for everything within it's capacity. Mostly building steam locos but also making motorbike bits and telescope parts. Before I had a milling machine, all of my milling was done on it using a vertical slide.
I've now also got a Denham Junior that someone gave me so that's used for anything that won't fit in the Myford.
I've stayed 'faithful' to the Myford because it's a very good lathe and I've never felt the need to replace it
I bought my ML7 brand new in 1973 from the old Reeves (£150!) when they were in Birmingham and it is still my prefered lathe. It's been in constant use since then. Apart from fitting a 3ph motor with inverter some years ago I haven't had to do much to it at all. I soon replaced the original tool post with a quick change job which made tool changing much easier.
I did recently pick up a virtually brand new spindle and a set of NOS white metal bearing shells which I fitted last year but it didn't really need it. I had scraped the original shells a couple of years ago but the wear was very slight.
One improvement I made last year was to replace the original Vee belts with the cogged variety which are more flexible and it now runs much smoother than before.
|Thread: Replacement inverter advise|
I fitted a larger (2.2KW) version to my mill in July 2018 and have been very happy with it. The instructions are not the best as has been mentioned but I managed to fathom out all the settings and connections for remote start/stop/reverse and speed pot without too much trouble.
If you are going for one of these cheaper VFDs then I would recommend going for a higher rating VFD than you need for the actual motor.
I bought an inverter for the ML7 from Drives Direct some years ago that was the same output as the HP of the lathe motor and it failed after about a year. I replaced it with a spare one of the same make that was a higher output and it's been working fine for years now.
|Thread: 042 Locomotive plans|
All the drawings are actually on the website linked to by Ian. Just click on the link ' Vers la page ".........." and keep clicking the same link on each page. You will eventually get to the valve gear drawings:
Judging by the cylinders and the boiler it looks as though it is Gauge 1 or maybe even O Gauge. The boiler looks to be either meths or gas fired. That should narrow it down a bit.
|Thread: Part built Allchin 1.5 inch|
RS sell some small steel bevel gears that you might be able to adapt:
The drawings call for 0.5" DP and these are 12.8mm. You would have to sleeve the bore to fit the shafts and probably shorten the boss as well. Might be worth a try if you can't find any suitable ones elsewhere. I presume that Reeves used to sell them in the past?
The governor that I built came with the gears so I don't know where they came from.
|Thread: 3.5” NG Conway or Lilla|
Steel will give you better adhesion and be less messy to machine.
|Thread: Online ME index|
Had a look again tonight and the online index is back
Whoops, I thought it was! The homepage has reappeared but the search facility does not work
Edited By John Baguley on 10/12/2019 00:35:26
|Thread: Soldering a tender|
When I've soldered tanks etc. I've used one of the lower melting point solders from Carrs such as the 143ºC stuff. You can get them with a melting point down to 70ºC. They are available from Phoenix Paints amongst others. Not cheap though but you don't need a lot if the joints are close fitting. Some of the solders used to contain Cadmium which made them flow very easily but don't know if they still do?
I've always used a needle flame torch for heating with no problems but you do have to be careful not to overheat the metal and distort it. Using a low melt solder definitely helps with that.
|Thread: Online ME index|
Thanks Bazyle, I did have an index on my PC when I was running XP using a free and very early version on FMPRO which worked very well. Unfortunately, I had to upgrade to WIN10 when the old PC packed up and the early version of FMPRO will not run on the new one. I presume that the software is only 8 bit.
I'm going to have to either get to grips with running a virtual XP machine on the WIN10 PC or suss out using another database program that doesn't cost the earth
Has anyone else noticed that the online Model Engineer Index at itech.net.au seems to have disappeared?
I used it about a week ago but now the link just comes up as 404-file not found. It looks as though the website is not there anymore.
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