Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Blown X1 Mill speed control|
last year I repaired a couple of driver boards for the Machine Mart mini lathe (C3 etc) for a friend at the club. He was on his third board and getting fed up with the cost of the replacement from MM. I replaced the output mosfets on both with a higher spec version from RS and so far so good. The originals were the standard IRFP460 but I replaced them with IRFP22N50A which have a higher rating. The probem with the original IRFP460 is that they can't stand the current drawn if the motor stalls under load. By the time the fuse blows, it's too late!
|Thread: Brass nuts on boiler stays?|
At least the threaded stays won't fall out or move at the worst possible time
Brass will be fine for the nuts. It's been used since LBSC days for stay nuts. I still use them for the boilers I build with caulked stays (shock, horror )
You don't really need the nuts at all if both ends of the stays are going to be silver soldered. You only need them if they are to be caulked with soft solder (Comsol etc.). Nowadays, most people just use plain copper rivets for stays with the heads inside the firebox if they are all silver soldered.
Edited By John Baguley on 05/02/2010 15:01:05
|Thread: Martin Evans Columbia Castings|
Blackgates Engineering list them in their catalogue.
|Thread: Matin Evans, Holmside|
It was serialised in 14 parts starting with Volume 143 issue 3558 and finishing in Volume 144 Issue 3590. Relevant issues are 3558, 3561, 3563, 3565, 3567, 3569, 3571, 3573, 3575, 3578, 3581, 3584, 3587, 3590.
Edited By John Baguley on 20/01/2010 11:27:28
|Thread: Captive steam fittings (on loco's))|
the easiest way to adapt the original fittings is firstly to make a new valve stem with the outer part that the handle fits to a smaller diameter than the threaded part. Then make a new gland nut with the hole to fit the reduced stem of the valve. The gland nut then stops the stem from being unscrewed completely.
|Thread: lifford hall|
The backhead clack is for the tender handpump feed. The boiler does have two topfeeds but they were meant to be fitted without bushes, hence the lack of them. The idea is to drill two 1/4" holes in the boiler barrel either side of the safety valve bush. The top feeds are fitted into these holes and secured to the barrel with bronze screws and run over with soft solder to seal. I doubt if this would be acceptable now but I don't think it would be too difficult to retrofit a couple of bushes as the only joint you are liable to disturb is the safety valve bush. Would be a doddle if you know someone with oxy-acetylene gear. That's assuming the stays haven't been soft soldered. Would still be possible with oxy-acetylene to keep the heat local and a bit of care.
Ivy Hall was never intended to be a replica of a real Hall but instead LBSC's idea of what a 'modernised' Hall might look like. Lickham Hall was the closer to scale design that he did for Reeves, much to the annoyance of the head of Model Engineer at the time!
Have replied on MECH re the top feeds.
|Thread: Stephenson valve gear for Derby 2P|
I will probably be able to do it for you if nobody else volunteers. I have the original LLAS articles with the drawings etc. Designing valve gears is pretty straightforward nowadays with the help of the work of Don Ashton etc.
|Thread: Yet another boiler making question|
is it just a rivet you've used to hold the firebox wrapper to the tubeplate and end plate whilst soldering these joints? I presume you haven't installed the firebox into the boiler shell yet?
If so, I wouldn't worry about it at this point in time. Wait until you've got the whole boiler assembled and you come to do the stays which you obviously intend to silver solder. You are going to have to get the whole firebox and outer wrapper damned hot to do the stays anyway so try and put a dob of Easyflo on the offending rivet then (inside the firebox). There's a good chance it probably sealed anyway with the solder that has been drawn into the initial joint.
Incidentally, you'll probably need to get a Cyclone burner to do the stays inside the firebox. If you have already soldered on the firebox backplate it's very difficult to keep an ordinary burner alight in such a small space.
Edited By John Baguley on 18/12/2009 21:53:43
Mabel is an inside cylinder LNWR 2-4-0 so they definitely won't be the same cylinders. The stock codes on the Reeves website are different.
|Thread: Flux for HMP soft solder?|
The 'traditional' flux is Bakers Fluid but you have to keep slopping it on all the time as it quickly evaporates. Carrs Black Label works quite well but with the same evaporation problem. The difficulty is finding a suitable brush to apply it with that will stand the temperature without going all black and horrible! Maybe something like an eye dropper would be a better way of applying it?
|Thread: LBSC Petrolea|
It's mentioned indirectly on page 326 of Volume 92, No. 2291 under hydraulically testing the boiler and should be 80psi. Unfortunately I can't scan the page myself as I've just replaced the old PC that went bang at the weekend and my scanner won't work with the new one!
|Thread: Clarke CL300 Speed control|
Earlier this year I repaired 2 of the Clarke speed controller boards for a member of our club (he was on his third!!). I fitted higher spec Mosfets - IRFN22N50A - from RS and so far one of the repaired boards he fitted has been working ok. The problem is that the output Mosfets originally fitted are only just up to the job, the slightest surge and they're gone! Repairing the two boards cost less than the cost of a replacement board from Clarke.
Edited By John Baguley on 05/11/2009 00:14:24
|Thread: Balancing the steam pressure on the slide valve|
I think it will have an effect on reducing wear although how significant that will be remains to be seen! I'm doing it more as an experiment (as a lot of my 'mods' are) to see what the effect will actually be. I want this loco to be as maintenance free and long lived as possible as it's going to be used for passenger hauling at the club on a regular basis.
I've more or less finalised the design and am going for a balance piston on top of the valve. This will be hollow and allow the exhaust to escape through the top of the steam chest rather than the rather tortuous route via the normal exhaust port. The diameter of the balance piston is such that the force holding the valve onto the port face will only be 90% of what it would normally be, but still leaving enough force on the valve to hold it on the port face.
The valve can still lift if necessary to allow any condensate to clear as the balance piston slides in a bore in the valve.
Much of this loco will be 'experimental' . The boiler has been redesigned to the late Jim Ewins formulae with a much bigger firebox and more fire tubes. I am now looking at designing a Lempor exhaust system for it as one will fit nicely using the original chimney height so it won't look out of place. All good fun!
|Thread: show track|
Try The Miniature Railway Supply Co. Ltd:
|Thread: bits and pieces|
there is a website at:
They also attend most of the major exhibitions and will be at the Midlands one this weekend. They're a pretty friendly bunch and are always happy to speak to people at the shows.
The Eagle castings are available from the 2½" Gauge Association. The castings officer is Christopher Kruikshank who can be contacted at:
The castings are normally sold at cost to members but are available to non members at a slightly higher price.
Edited By John Baguley on 13/10/2009 00:47:41
|Thread: Building LBSC 31/2" Mabel|
I'm not building Mabel myself but have had a look at your build notes on the other forum and the problems you are having.
It looks to me as though the problem could well stem from incorrect valve timing i.e. the setting of the eccentrics. The valve dimensions given by LBSC are fine, indeed the port and valve dimensions are pretty standard for a 3½" loco. The face of the valve that moves over the port is 3/32" wider than the port. This is the 'lap' of the valve and it's this lap that allows the steam to be used expansively and hence economically. The total valve travel in full gear should be twice the lap plus twice the width of the port which gives 7/16" (which I believe you have).
It sounds like the valve may be opening at the wrong point in the stroke due to incorrect setting of the eccentrics and you've corrected this by shortening the valve by a considerable amount in order to get it to run.
Setting the eccentrics on these types of valve gear (Allan, Stephenson, etc.) can be very confusing and frustrating until you have done a few! It's very easy to get the forward and reverse eccentrics crossed over or the eccentrics leading the crank rather than following (or vice versa ! )
|Thread: Boiler Test Codes|
The subject of fittings does seem to be a grey area. Appendix B of the code says:
"In addition to the normal inspection for leaks, adequate joints, correct thickness of materials and the absence of any appreciable distortion/bulging to any surfaces, inspectors may wish to consider the following points: "
Note it says may wish to, not shall or should !
The criteria in appendix B for fiitings seems to be the same for new and previously tested boilers i.e.
'All screw operated valves should be checked to ensure that they cannot be screwed out whilst under pressure'
My interpretation of that is that a boiler with valve spindles that can be unscrewed should be failed whether it is new or old but the opening paragraph to appendix B suggests that the inspector can choose to ignore this?
Definitely something that needs to be clarified!
Edited By John Baguley on 14/09/2009 00:42:40
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