Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: don young piston valves|
It was described in Don's Black Five build which was published in LLAS. I tried the method described when I was experimenting with the piston valves for my Helen Long with limited success. I eventually fitted PTFE heads to the valves and never looked back.
Don's method was to use Molybdenum Disulphide powder, coat the valve bobbins with it and then drive the tightly fitting bobbin backwards and forwards in the valve liner until it became free. He suggested using Rocol Anti Scuffing grease if you didn't have any of the powder. That is what I used. The idea was that the ridges from machining the bobbin and the liner would be worn down smooth to give a mirror finish that would seal perfectly and last a long time. Also,the Molybdenum Disulphide would embed itself in the surfaces and provide good long term lubrication.
The problem with just turning the bobbins and the liners is that no matter how good a finish you think you have got, the surfaces will still have ridges that will eventually wear down and make the bobbins a poor fit.
I have a copy of the relevant article that I can send to you if you want to pursue Don's method.
|Thread: Cast model locomotive wheels|
The X222 is a Stuart Turner code for an O gauge driving wheel with a finished tread diameter of 35mm (1.375" ). The 220 is probably also a Stuart Turner O gauge driver and short for X220. That is for a finished tread diameter of 35.7 - 41.3mm (1.5625" - 1.325" ). The smaller wheels may be O gauge bogie or tender wheels. They could be X218.
Edited By John Baguley on 05/06/2022 11:22:17
|Thread: Which stand for Myford ml7|
When I moved my ML7 into the new workshop, I built a stand from 50mm square steel tubing. The lathe was originally in a spare bedroom on a piece of kitchen worktop on some old kitchen units. It worked fine but I wanted something better in the new shop.
I already had riser blocks and an original Myford driptray but I replaced that with a more substantial one that I picked up from a workshop clearance. That one is 3mm steel and very solid. The crosslide handle is at elbow height as has been mentioned which makes using the lathe for long periods quite comfortable.
It now has two shelves fitted on the rails which hold all the chucks etc.
Edited By John Baguley on 30/05/2022 16:30:45
|Thread: MES Kennet Tool and Cutter Grinder|
I have a set of the original drawings as I built one from the kit some years ago. PM me with your email address and I'll let you have a copy.
Edited By John Baguley on 27/05/2022 00:07:03
|Thread: Tools needed to build a 3 1/2in gauge Tich|
I would agree with Duncan - go for Juliet. It's a far better beginners loco than Tich. Tich is very small and not easy to keep in steam, especially the small boiler version. Juliet will pull a couple of people with no problems.
|Thread: RS Components Datasheets|
Here you go:
I bought one of the kits many years ago but never used it.
|Thread: Rob Roy Build/ Rally|
Yes, you have got that correct
I did some work on a Rob Roy for a chap at our club and out of interest I had a look at the valve gear as very few designers seem to understand Stephensons correctly.
I put all the figures into the Don Ashton spreadsheet and calculated what the correct offset should be to equalise the events over the complete range of cut offs. I then used the Alan Wallace valve gear simulator to check that the figures were correct.
The reason for also shortening the lifting arm is to compensate for moving the suspension pin on the expansion link so that the suspension link is vertical when the piston is at mid stroke and the reverser is in mid gear. In Martin's design the lifting link does slope backwards slightly, hence the modification being larger than the increase in the offset.
I have recently inherited my late Brother's Rob Roy which was built to the original drawings so I must make the modifications to this as well
Edited By John Baguley on 05/04/2022 23:47:33
|Thread: Steel boilers|
A Club boiler inspector is quite within his right to refuse to test any boiler, especially a steel one. Many will not feel themselves qualified to do so. To do a proper test on a steel boiler then you need an ultrasonic thickness tester so that you can check the thickness of the steel plate in various places. It's also useful if you have an endoscope so that you can examine the inside of the boiler. Most testers will not have access to that equipment. A steel boiler is a totally different animal to a copper one. Steel boilers will corrode over time, especially if not looked after properly, and reach a condition where they are getting dangerously thin, even though they may pass a simple hydraulic test. They may pass the test and then fail, perhaps catastrophically, soon after.
Club Boiler Tester
Edited By John Baguley on 05/04/2022 20:01:35
|Thread: Rob Roy Build/ Rally|
Although the original valve gear design isn't awful it can be improved a lot by increasing the offset of the suspension pin on the expansion link from 0.0625" to 0.160". If you haven't already made the suspension brackets for the expansion link then I would recommend making the alteration. It looks as though you have already made a start on the lifting arms but it also helps to reduce the length of those from 1.25" to 1.0625".
|Thread: What is this wonderful locomotive|
Ok, think I've found it. It's a design by Henry Greenly from the 1930's.There is a short article about the loco in ME Volume 80 Issue 1987. The author isn't named but I would say that it was by Greenly himself. He designed the loco for two gentlemen for their second loco build. If you pm me with your email address I can send you a copy of the article.
The drawings should be still available from Maxitrack as they hold the Greenly archive of his drawings. There are 10 sheets in all.
You won't be able to get any missing castings anymore unless you make patterns and get them cast your self but you should be able to get by without. You have the major castings e.g. wheels and cylinders anyway.
Brian just beat me to it!
Edited By John Baguley on 26/03/2022 16:49:10
No, it's not a Torquay Manor. There are too many differences in the frames etc.
I've just had a look on Station Road Steam and It looks very much like a GWR Hall that was sold some years back - Stock Code 2663 if you want to look. The position of the weighshaft and the pivot for the rocking levers that drive the valves are identical. Most GWR locos have the pivot for the rocking levers (pendulum levers) on the top of the frames but this one has them in the middle of the frames.
I'll see if there was a commercial design for the Hall in 5" Gauge.
PS - Just found an identical chassis on SRS - stock code 5006 - so it must have been a commercial design. It's just a case of finding which one!
Edited By John Baguley on 26/03/2022 16:00:24
Looks like a Great Western 4-6-0 of sorts with the inside Stephenson valve gear and the pendulum levers driving the outside valves but don't know the design off hand. The tender doesn't look Great Western though so may not be for that loco. What gauge is it - 3½" or 5" ?
|Thread: Your favourite model|
My Helen Long
|Thread: Greenly Reverser|
The reverser is described with drawings in Volume 53, Issue 1281, Page 630.
|Thread: Can anyone help identify these frames?|
They look very much like the frames for Mona, LBSC's 3½" Gauge 0-6-2 tank loco.
|Thread: Do you "still" enjoy driving?|
I've never enjoyed driving a car although I enjoyed riding motorbikes for many years. If it wasn't for the fact that my ME club is 25 miles away and I go to various 2½" Gauge rallies during the year I wouldn't bother with a car anymore. I hate driving in the dark and avoid it wherever possible.
|Thread: Boiler fittings|
I've always used stainless with no problems. You can buy 6BA x 1/2" cheesehead screws from EKP but not cheap.
Can I suggest that you make studs and fit nuts if possible rather than use screws. Much easier to remove the dome then and avoids the risk of shearing off a bolt when they seize up (as they often do!) Fit the studs with threadlock which will seal and protect them if the threaded holes in the dome bush go through to the boiler space.
|Thread: So what design software will you use in 2022?|
Like Jason I will be carrying on using Alibre, albeit the basic version which cost me £150. I've been using it for 10 years, it does everything I need to do (don't need CAM as I don't do CNC) and I can use it in my sleep. Also, cannot be othered to waste precious time learning new software that would not be of any advantage to me.
|Thread: Lathe dro readings wrong.|
Sounds like you have the DRO set to read diameter rather than radius. There should be a D/R button to change between the two.
|Thread: Visiting other clubs|
Many clubs now insist on seeing a copy of your insurance certificate before they will allow you to run. If you are a member of a club then you should be able to get a copy from your club secretary and take that with you.
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