Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: help required|
I don't recognise the loco but judging from the bits I would say that the valve gear is Marshall or something very similar if that helps anyone.
|Thread: Superheaters.....how to make|
Are they the castings from GLR? If so, I would guess that you are supposed to cut them in half acoss the shortest width, each 'lozenge' shape making two return bends, and then drill the cut surface for the elements?
I've always used Silverflo24 for soldering the return bends and have had no problems with the joints melting in use. I've now got some Silverflo20 which would probably be better and I will use that in future. My superheaters are always the stainless steel radiant type where they extend to the back the firebox so will get much hotter than the LBSC type that are only in the superheater flue. Once soldered, it takes a lot more heat to remelt the joint than needed to make the joint.
|Thread: Juliet LBSC|
Here's the layout for the Tich valve gear so you can compare it with your Juliet:
As Nick says, it could just be badly designed. LBSC admiited that he didn't know a lot about valve gears and designed them by making mock ups with card, tin and pins. In fact, looking at the fact that the expansion link is suspended from the bottom, the valve events could be pretty awful.
Hi again Adrian,
LBSC decribes the outside Stephensons valve gear for Tich in ME Volume 120 Issue 3012. I can scan it and let you have a copy if it would help.The valve gear could have been adapted to Juliet by just altering the length of the valve rod so long as the cylinder ports are set out the same as for Tich.
The valve gear replaces the normal eccentrics with two return cranks and the positions of these are set during the build but they could have moved causing your problems. If the cranks are set correctly then the only adjustment of the timing is by setting the valves.
Edited By John Baguley on 31/08/2020 09:30:10
So far as I know LBSC never described a Juliet with outside Stephensons valve gear, only Baker, so it's unlikely there will be any drawings or information about it. He did build his own version of Tich with outside Stepehensons though and possibly the builder of your son's loco based it on that? I think LBSC did write something on the Stephensons Tich in Model Engineer. I'll have a look and see if I can find it.
|Thread: Silver steel axles|
The biggest problem I find with using needle roller bearings is that the chassis is so free running that it will roll off the bench as soon as you turn your back! It nearly happened to me a couple of times. I only just caught it the second time it happened and it nearly landed on the floor! This was before I had fitted the coupling rods etc.
If you can, use the bearings with the built in seals at each end. For lubrication I drill down the centre of the axle from each end and then drill a cross hole into the bearing surface. You can seal the end of the axle with a grubscrew. You don't need to oil them very often.
Edited By John Baguley on 18/08/2020 11:11:15
|Thread: GWR Dart Part built value (estimate)|
A new commercial boiler (I presume it is copper?) is going to be at least £5K and probably more so the whole lot has to be worth at least that.
I'm sure that a lot of people are going to find themselves out of a job when the businesses that employ them realise that they can manage perfectly well without them.
|Thread: Starting Small Holes|
When I was making injectors I used a bit of hardened 1/8" silver steel rod with a sharp point turned on the end. That seems to work quite well for putting a little centre in.
|Thread: Hallite washers|
There really is no need for the washers but I presume that you have made the parts to the drawings so the gap for the O ring will be too big for the O ring alone. Your PTFE should be fine to make the washers or you could just make a spacer washer out of brass (put on the boiler side of the O ring) to make the gap the right width for the O ring on it's own.
I've used the O ring seal on several locos and it works very well. Much better than the threaded joints beloved by LBSC which are an absolute pain!
It's a bit confusing as the rods of both types become open or crossed at some point in their motion!
The way to tell if the valve gear has 'open' or 'crossed' rods is how the rods look when the crankpin is on the opposite side of the axle to the eccentric.
The majority, if not all, of loco valve gears use open rods. I don't think it makes any make any difference if the gear uses a rocker or not.
With open rods the amount of lead increases as the cut off approaches mid gear. It is often necessary to set the gear to give zero or even negative lead in full gear to avoid the lead becoming excessive as the gear is notched up.
With crossed rods the amount of lead decreases as the gear is notched up. I believe crossed rods are normally used on traction engines rather than locomotives.
Hope that helps.
|Thread: Pesky Government Announcement!|
I haven't had a TV for about 25 years now and used to get a constant stream of letters from the TV Licensing 'thugs'. I did get a note shoved through the letterbox one night saying that the TV detector vans had been in my area and if I had been caught using a TV then I would have been prosecuted. Good luck to them as they wouldn't have caught me using one anyway! They would have a job spotting the TV aerial as it fell off the chimney about 10 years ago!
I think they have finally given up harassing me and now I just have to 'sign' an online declaration every two years to say that I still do not need a licence.
I did use to watch BBC Iplayer occasionally on the computer until they decided a few years ago that you need a license to watch that so I don't even bother with that now. I don't think that I am missing anything. There's plenty of far more interesting stuff to watch on YouTube if I get bored.
|Thread: 3D or 2D Drawings for SAR 25C|
The drawings that SAR Steam sell are very good quality copies of the works drawings in Tiff and pdf format. There are also some CAD drawings included, at least in the 25NC set. I've got the set of three CDs containing the drawings for every SAR loco that they sold some years ago when the owner was thinking of shutting shop.
I have been slowly drawing up a 2½" gauge version of Red Devil over the last few years but whether it will ever get built is another matter!
Be aware that following works drawings is a mammoth task and will take a long time!
Jim Nolan is building a 7¼" 25NC and shows progress on his website:
Worth a look if you want to see what is involved in building a loco of this size. It's huge!
Edited By John Baguley on 12/06/2020 01:48:17
|Thread: LBSC 3.5" "Maisie" - steam regulator valve assembly|
Here's the drawing of the regulator arrangement:
To remove it you will have to first unscrew the fitting on the front tubeplate. It threads into the tubeplate and onto the end of the steampipe at the same time so will not be easy. You will either have to try and grip the outside with something or maybe put a couple of screws into the threaded holes that hold the superheater on and try unscewing it with a bar.
The steampipe may come out with the fitting. If not, you will have to remove it by unscrewing it from the regulator block. One way is to tap the square end of a file shank into the end of the pipe or a square file and use that to unscrew it. You will probably damage the pipe trying to get it out!
Once the steampipe is removed you should be able to remove the regulator block through the dome bush after removing the screw on the top of the boiler that holds it.
Hope that helps,
|Thread: DRO error|
Don't worry about it Kevin. I did something similar the other night. I also wanted four holes, put the start angle as 90° but put the end angle as 270°. Took me a while to realise what I was doing wrong.
Only just learnt the difference between Absolute and Incremental measuring after watching a YouTube video by Joe Pie!
I think it's because you have put the end angle in as 0°. It should be 360°
The DRO is thinking that you want the four holes to cover an angle of 90° instead of the full 360°.
Edited By John Baguley on 23/05/2020 01:01:26
|Thread: It would happen now!|
Another disadvantage of a combi is that you can waste a lot of water waiting for the hot water to come through, unless you have the type with a built in storage tank. In the kitchen I run the water into a 2 litre milk bottle until it gets hot and use that to fill the kettle.
|Thread: 5" gauge terrier build|
For removable plugs so you can see the valves and ports for setting the timing. The drawing in ME shows them as 3/8" x 40
|Thread: Cost of Stamps to Increase|
I send everything first class. The difference in cost is negligible. It's still cheap at the price.
|Thread: Did i make the right choice buying an old banger Myford lathe.|
When I started model engineering back in the early 70's there wasn't much choice if you wanted a decent small lathe. You were pretty much limited to a Myford. My 'workshop' was the small box room of my parents house so a s/h ex-industrial lathe was out of the question plus it would probably be completely clapped out.
There just wasn't the vast choice that people have nowadays so that's probably why there are so many Myfords around. At the time they were 'the' model engineers lathe.
The small spindle bore is a pain but I've now got a restored Denham Junior for anything that the Myford won't handle.
Would I buy a Myford now if I were just starting out? Probably not unless one came up in very good condition at a reasonable price. I would go for something bigger and it probably would be a larger new asian machine.
I still like the Myford though and wouldn't part with it
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