Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Another Stolen Loco|
A friend of mine had a large number (at least 10) locos stolen from his factory unit where he kept part of his collection. None of them were ever recovered. The thieves were just after scrap metal so they all probably finished up in a scrap yard somewhere. One of the locos was a 2½" Gauge King that I had just finished restoring for him so I wasn't very happy either.
The thieves made a return visit and my friend was foolishly waiting for them. He tackled them and was hit over the head and thrown down an embankment. He was lucky to escape serious injury or worse.
|Thread: Model Engineering Website|
I don't think that is the same article. The one Duncan is looking for is one on making piston rings from carbon filled PTFE. I think it was by 'Journeyman'? and refers to the rings for the Boxhill that he was building.
|Thread: Myford ML7 headstock belt length|
I replaced mine a couple of years ago and it was definitely a 23 inch. However, I replaced it with a cogged type Vee belt (AX23 from Simply Bearings) as I have found them to be a lot smoother running than the standard Vee belts.
|Thread: LED Tubes in the workshop|
I replaced all the fluorescents in my workshop with the 600mm square panels. The headroom was somewhat limited with the fluorescent fittings but the panels are very thin so I gained a couple of inches. I fitted the daylight panels and I find them ideal, not harsh at all. I've replaced all the lights in the house with daylight LED bulbs and find them far better than the warm white ones. I can actually see to read now!
Edited By John Baguley on 08/04/2021 19:54:30
|Thread: Is this a daft idea please?|
I did this twice with my Chester Eagle 25 mill and stand. Once when I bought it so we could get it in the car to bring it home and a second time when I moved it into the new workshop. No problems at all. Did the same with a Boxford shaper that I bought and my Denham Junior lathe.
|Thread: New Start on LBSC's 3.5" Petrolea|
I think you will find that you would still be breaking copyright with your new corrected drawings as they would be classed as being derived from the originals and so still covered by the original copyright. It's probably very complicated!
|Thread: Myford drive belt|
I've replaced both belts on my ML7 with 'cogged' Vee belts as sold by SimplyBearings etc. with a big improvement in smoothness and quietness of running. They are more flexible than a normal Vee belt and run with less vibration. I discovered them after having bad vibration problems with my mill after replacing the dual belt drive system with one long belt and a VFD drive. The normal Vee belt I tried flexed a lot at certain speeds and vibrated badly. The cogged belt that I tried as a last resort virtually cured the problem. I had thought of trying a link belt until I saw the price!
|Thread: Design of boilers|
I'm no expert on fluid dynamics but I think you will find that it's the other way around. The smaller the diameter of the tube, the less likely that the flow will be turbulent as the Reynolds number decreases.I would guess that you would need a very high gas velocity through the small tube to get any turbulence.
Across the pond, they run a lot of propane and oil fired locomotives and they have found that putting 'turbulators' (strips of twisted stainless steel) in the fire tubes results in a significant increase in the steam raising ability of the boiler, due to them breaking up the stagnant boundary layer of gas on the inside of the tubes by introducing turbulence.
Jim Ewins did some tests years ago on a 5" gauge boiler that showed that useful heat transfer only occurred in the first few inches of the fire tubes.I would reason that that is because of laminar flow in the tube, rather than turbulent.
|Thread: Model boiler safety calculations|
Quite a few years ago I found this spreadsheet for designing boilers which I've found very useful:
It allows you to see the effects of varying the shell thickness, the stay diameter and spacing etc.on the safety factor of the boiler.
It's always struck me that the stay spacings given by LBSC on many of his boilers are a bit wide and I tend to use more and put them closer together. The existing spacings obviously work as there have been hundreds of boilers made to his designs but it does lower the safety factor. I always try and work to a safety factor of 10 whenever possible which is probably a bit over the top.
|Thread: Great Central Atlantic in old ME|
No, sorry. My collection is a bit thin around that time.
Just looked up Aynsworth in the ME Index and found a photo of the loco that appeared in Volume 29 Issue 656. I'll scan it for you.
Edited By John Baguley on 17/01/2021 14:55:18
Here you go:
I can email you the full size image if it would help
Edited By John Baguley on 17/01/2021 15:07:28
I may have that issue Bazyle. I'll have a look.
|Thread: help needed|
Yes, the unconnected dropwire needs to connect to the orange in the other crimp. It's probably corroded through and broken off. The black and green are not used.
You'll probably find that at some time in the past the dropwire has been replaced and rather than run the new dropwire all the way down inside the house whoever did it just put a junction box under the eaves. We had ours done like that a few years ago by sub contractors.
As Francis correctly says, the internet will still work with only one of the wires connected but the phone won't.
You've just reminded me Nigel. I also worked for the GPO and then later BT. I was working in Belper telephone exchange installing another shelf of equipment on one of the old Strowger racks which involved fitting a new fuse mounting on the live busbars that ran down one side of the rack. It had to be done live to avoid interuptions to service. I had done this many times before but this time somehow managed to stick my 81's (pliers) straight across the busbars whilst wiring up the fuse mounting. This did cause an almighty flash and bang and took the main fuse out that fed that particular suite of equipment. Can't remember now but probably 250amp. Needless to say, my 81's were now missing a big chunk and two of my fingers got copper plated! Extremely painful and the pain lasted a couple of days. Fortunately, the chap I was working with managed to get a spare fuse in before anyone noticed the loss of service and the incident went unreported!
Apparently, a chap doing some painting in Derby exchange put his tin of paint on top of the main busbars feeding a whole floor of equipment and that had quite spectacular results!
My cordless kettle did a similar thing last week. I switched it on to make a cuppa, there was an almighty bang and it leapt off the base! It tripped the 32 amp breaker but the 13amp fuse in the plug was still intact when I checked it. Needless to say, the kettle went in the bin as it was only a cheapy and I ordered a new kettle.
Before binning it I took it to bits and there was no obvious sign of any damage. When I checked the element though it was high resistance between live and neutral and high resistance live and neutral to earth. Presumably the element had failed and shorted out inside.
|Thread: Tender locos for a beginner?|
Firstly, I will get back to you shortly with the prices for Ayesha that you asked about.
If you have any doubts about the feasability of riding behind 2½" gauge locos, here's a video of me driving the original LBSC Ayesha at Nantwich last year:
This loco is now nearly 100 years old and still goes well! The first loco on the video is a Martin Evans Black Five that also runs very well. The owner often takes this to G3 meetings as well as using it for driving on raised tracks.
The first loco that I built was a 2½" Gauge 4-8-4 three cylinder tank loco (Helen Long) which wouldn't be classed as a beginners loco by any means. The only steam engine I had built before that was a simple oscillator that I made in metalwork at school but didn't have any real problems building the loco. I only built it really because someone commented that no one would build a helen Long nowadays and I took that as a challenge!
You might find my website of some interest as I describe the loco build from start to finish plus various other projects.
|Thread: For the latest in PC fashion! (Anyone here with a Master's Degree?)|
What a load of rubbish! Totally agree with Peter.
|Thread: DRO errors, or are they??|
I had a similar problem after fitting a DRO to my mill. I decided to check the DRO readings against the movement set by the leadscrew and dial and there were significant differences. Naturally, it being a cheap DRO from China I thought the errors were with the DRO. The first thing I checked was the alignment of the scale but that was fine. Well within spec.I decided to check the DRO readings against a 12" stack of gauge blocks and the readings were spot on. The original errors that I got were due to errors in the leadscrew and not the DRO.
|Thread: help required|
I don't recognise the loco but judging from the bits I would say that the valve gear is Marshall or something very similar if that helps anyone.
|Thread: Superheaters.....how to make|
Are they the castings from GLR? If so, I would guess that you are supposed to cut them in half acoss the shortest width, each 'lozenge' shape making two return bends, and then drill the cut surface for the elements?
I've always used Silverflo24 for soldering the return bends and have had no problems with the joints melting in use. I've now got some Silverflo20 which would probably be better and I will use that in future. My superheaters are always the stainless steel radiant type where they extend to the back the firebox so will get much hotter than the LBSC type that are only in the superheater flue. Once soldered, it takes a lot more heat to remelt the joint than needed to make the joint.
|Thread: Juliet LBSC|
Here's the layout for the Tich valve gear so you can compare it with your Juliet:
As Nick says, it could just be badly designed. LBSC admiited that he didn't know a lot about valve gears and designed them by making mock ups with card, tin and pins. In fact, looking at the fact that the expansion link is suspended from the bottom, the valve events could be pretty awful.
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