Here is a list of all the postings John Baguley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Model boiler safety calculations|
Quite a few years ago I found this spreadsheet for designing boilers which I've found very useful:
It allows you to see the effects of varying the shell thickness, the stay diameter and spacing etc.on the safety factor of the boiler.
It's always struck me that the stay spacings given by LBSC on many of his boilers are a bit wide and I tend to use more and put them closer together. The existing spacings obviously work as there have been hundreds of boilers made to his designs but it does lower the safety factor. I always try and work to a safety factor of 10 whenever possible which is probably a bit over the top.
|Thread: Great Central Atlantic in old ME|
No, sorry. My collection is a bit thin around that time.
Just looked up Aynsworth in the ME Index and found a photo of the loco that appeared in Volume 29 Issue 656. I'll scan it for you.
Edited By John Baguley on 17/01/2021 14:55:18
Here you go:
I can email you the full size image if it would help
Edited By John Baguley on 17/01/2021 15:07:28
I may have that issue Bazyle. I'll have a look.
|Thread: help needed|
Yes, the unconnected dropwire needs to connect to the orange in the other crimp. It's probably corroded through and broken off. The black and green are not used.
You'll probably find that at some time in the past the dropwire has been replaced and rather than run the new dropwire all the way down inside the house whoever did it just put a junction box under the eaves. We had ours done like that a few years ago by sub contractors.
As Francis correctly says, the internet will still work with only one of the wires connected but the phone won't.
You've just reminded me Nigel. I also worked for the GPO and then later BT. I was working in Belper telephone exchange installing another shelf of equipment on one of the old Strowger racks which involved fitting a new fuse mounting on the live busbars that ran down one side of the rack. It had to be done live to avoid interuptions to service. I had done this many times before but this time somehow managed to stick my 81's (pliers) straight across the busbars whilst wiring up the fuse mounting. This did cause an almighty flash and bang and took the main fuse out that fed that particular suite of equipment. Can't remember now but probably 250amp. Needless to say, my 81's were now missing a big chunk and two of my fingers got copper plated! Extremely painful and the pain lasted a couple of days. Fortunately, the chap I was working with managed to get a spare fuse in before anyone noticed the loss of service and the incident went unreported!
Apparently, a chap doing some painting in Derby exchange put his tin of paint on top of the main busbars feeding a whole floor of equipment and that had quite spectacular results!
My cordless kettle did a similar thing last week. I switched it on to make a cuppa, there was an almighty bang and it leapt off the base! It tripped the 32 amp breaker but the 13amp fuse in the plug was still intact when I checked it. Needless to say, the kettle went in the bin as it was only a cheapy and I ordered a new kettle.
Before binning it I took it to bits and there was no obvious sign of any damage. When I checked the element though it was high resistance between live and neutral and high resistance live and neutral to earth. Presumably the element had failed and shorted out inside.
|Thread: Tender locos for a beginner?|
Firstly, I will get back to you shortly with the prices for Ayesha that you asked about.
If you have any doubts about the feasability of riding behind 2½" gauge locos, here's a video of me driving the original LBSC Ayesha at Nantwich last year:
This loco is now nearly 100 years old and still goes well! The first loco on the video is a Martin Evans Black Five that also runs very well. The owner often takes this to G3 meetings as well as using it for driving on raised tracks.
The first loco that I built was a 2½" Gauge 4-8-4 three cylinder tank loco (Helen Long) which wouldn't be classed as a beginners loco by any means. The only steam engine I had built before that was a simple oscillator that I made in metalwork at school but didn't have any real problems building the loco. I only built it really because someone commented that no one would build a helen Long nowadays and I took that as a challenge!
You might find my website of some interest as I describe the loco build from start to finish plus various other projects.
|Thread: For the latest in PC fashion! (Anyone here with a Master's Degree?)|
What a load of rubbish! Totally agree with Peter.
|Thread: DRO errors, or are they??|
I had a similar problem after fitting a DRO to my mill. I decided to check the DRO readings against the movement set by the leadscrew and dial and there were significant differences. Naturally, it being a cheap DRO from China I thought the errors were with the DRO. The first thing I checked was the alignment of the scale but that was fine. Well within spec.I decided to check the DRO readings against a 12" stack of gauge blocks and the readings were spot on. The original errors that I got were due to errors in the leadscrew and not the DRO.
|Thread: help required|
I don't recognise the loco but judging from the bits I would say that the valve gear is Marshall or something very similar if that helps anyone.
|Thread: Superheaters.....how to make|
Are they the castings from GLR? If so, I would guess that you are supposed to cut them in half acoss the shortest width, each 'lozenge' shape making two return bends, and then drill the cut surface for the elements?
I've always used Silverflo24 for soldering the return bends and have had no problems with the joints melting in use. I've now got some Silverflo20 which would probably be better and I will use that in future. My superheaters are always the stainless steel radiant type where they extend to the back the firebox so will get much hotter than the LBSC type that are only in the superheater flue. Once soldered, it takes a lot more heat to remelt the joint than needed to make the joint.
|Thread: Juliet LBSC|
Here's the layout for the Tich valve gear so you can compare it with your Juliet:
As Nick says, it could just be badly designed. LBSC admiited that he didn't know a lot about valve gears and designed them by making mock ups with card, tin and pins. In fact, looking at the fact that the expansion link is suspended from the bottom, the valve events could be pretty awful.
Hi again Adrian,
LBSC decribes the outside Stephensons valve gear for Tich in ME Volume 120 Issue 3012. I can scan it and let you have a copy if it would help.The valve gear could have been adapted to Juliet by just altering the length of the valve rod so long as the cylinder ports are set out the same as for Tich.
The valve gear replaces the normal eccentrics with two return cranks and the positions of these are set during the build but they could have moved causing your problems. If the cranks are set correctly then the only adjustment of the timing is by setting the valves.
Edited By John Baguley on 31/08/2020 09:30:10
So far as I know LBSC never described a Juliet with outside Stephensons valve gear, only Baker, so it's unlikely there will be any drawings or information about it. He did build his own version of Tich with outside Stepehensons though and possibly the builder of your son's loco based it on that? I think LBSC did write something on the Stephensons Tich in Model Engineer. I'll have a look and see if I can find it.
|Thread: Silver steel axles|
The biggest problem I find with using needle roller bearings is that the chassis is so free running that it will roll off the bench as soon as you turn your back! It nearly happened to me a couple of times. I only just caught it the second time it happened and it nearly landed on the floor! This was before I had fitted the coupling rods etc.
If you can, use the bearings with the built in seals at each end. For lubrication I drill down the centre of the axle from each end and then drill a cross hole into the bearing surface. You can seal the end of the axle with a grubscrew. You don't need to oil them very often.
Edited By John Baguley on 18/08/2020 11:11:15
|Thread: GWR Dart Part built value (estimate)|
A new commercial boiler (I presume it is copper?) is going to be at least £5K and probably more so the whole lot has to be worth at least that.
I'm sure that a lot of people are going to find themselves out of a job when the businesses that employ them realise that they can manage perfectly well without them.
|Thread: Starting Small Holes|
When I was making injectors I used a bit of hardened 1/8" silver steel rod with a sharp point turned on the end. That seems to work quite well for putting a little centre in.
|Thread: Hallite washers|
There really is no need for the washers but I presume that you have made the parts to the drawings so the gap for the O ring will be too big for the O ring alone. Your PTFE should be fine to make the washers or you could just make a spacer washer out of brass (put on the boiler side of the O ring) to make the gap the right width for the O ring on it's own.
I've used the O ring seal on several locos and it works very well. Much better than the threaded joints beloved by LBSC which are an absolute pain!
It's a bit confusing as the rods of both types become open or crossed at some point in their motion!
The way to tell if the valve gear has 'open' or 'crossed' rods is how the rods look when the crankpin is on the opposite side of the axle to the eccentric.
The majority, if not all, of loco valve gears use open rods. I don't think it makes any make any difference if the gear uses a rocker or not.
With open rods the amount of lead increases as the cut off approaches mid gear. It is often necessary to set the gear to give zero or even negative lead in full gear to avoid the lead becoming excessive as the gear is notched up.
With crossed rods the amount of lead decreases as the gear is notched up. I believe crossed rods are normally used on traction engines rather than locomotives.
Hope that helps.
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