Here is a list of all the postings modeng2000 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Barograph 'stiction'|
I thought it was worth following up this discussion with the present situation.
The simple bearings were cleaned and lightly oiled instead of trying to modify them looking for an improvement in reducing any stiction.
I have been plotting the readings against an on-line site over several weeks and I find that now the two graph curves are very similar. there is an off set due to a n ASL setup error but overall the barograph is working as expected.
So thanks for the advice and suggestions, all now seems to be well.
|Thread: Telephone Ringback Code?|
So Howie, what do we move on to? A sytem that isn't user friendly it seems.
BT have sent me an adaptor that plugs into the mains and has a socket that accepts a standard telephone plug.
This adapter 'talks' to the BT Home Hub so the corded phone can be used when the system changes.The Home Hub also has a socket labeled 'Phone' that I'll use for our cordless phones.
Edited By modeng2000 on 11/06/2022 16:42:07
|Thread: Barograph 'stiction'|
A tap every once in a while might well be the answer.
Thanks for the Russel Scientific information.
There is another possible reason for the pen sticking, as this is a small barograph the chart length is shorter than for a normal barograph therefor the distance the pen moves across the chart is also shorter so giving less chance to unstick as compared to a full size barograph..
Michael, it is a dome barograph by Russel Scientific. Quite compact and I believe this has compromised the design by being enclosed in a 4"dia by 6" tall glass dome.
The Philip Collins book looks really interesting, thanks for the link.
So I suppose Bernard, these will now be made abroad like a lot of other things these days. Which company is about to stop trading?
Robert, so this is why folk tap the barometer as they pass by watching it settle to the current reading.
A barometer really indicates the pressure when requested by giiving it a tap however the barograph normally sits on its own most of the time so stiction becomes a problem. I have started the modification so hopefully I'll find an improvement. An electronic device is the answer but finding one with a printed chart output is another matter and it would need an electric supply not just a spring.
Thanks for the suggestions to my question.
"If you can bear it, strap a buzzer to your barograph! "
This is something I had considered but it would have to be clockwork!!
Yes of course I mean balance wheels, sorry. I have tried to upload a photo but alas failed miserably.
The linkage is very basic, just pins through holes. So I think where a 2.5mm dia brass rod passes through two clearence holes in a pair of uprght posts is possibly where some of the sticking is taking place.
(I did manage to place a picture on the Home Model Engine Machinist site)
Brian, it would be fairly easy to make the change and to revert if no improvement.
So I think if it might help I should try. Just wasn't sure it would help.
My barograph mechanism has a fair amount of 'stiction' in the pen movement and so I wonder if replacing the simple sleve bearings for point bearings as used for escapement wheels would be worth doing.
|Thread: Tapping straight|
I have small block of steel with many holes drilled to match the range of taps I use. Simple to start the taps, a few turns to establish the initial important threads. Remove the block and continue. Most of my taps are spiral and I can tap almost without looking even down to M2.
|Thread: Philosophical maxims|
Don't put your foot down if you haven't got a leg to stand on.
|Thread: How to remove a SMD resistor|
Joe, I believe it is o/c and will consider paralleling with a conventional resistor for test purposes if this is the case.
Not sure if there is room to leave a wire-ended resistor in place when reassembled.
The resistor is approx 3mm long, value 110k
I'm sure it will let go with sufficient heat on both tags.
Thanks both for your helpful replies. The pcb is fibreglass so I'll give it a try.
I would like to be able to remove a SMD chip resistor. Unfortunately it has been fixed with adhesive and soldered. I assume the adhesive won't soften with heat so what is the best way to approach this?
|Thread: Mini-lathe saddle casting error.|
Hello Ketan, I fully understand your position in this question of sourcing mini-lathes. In my case I was prepared to have to make improvements and so was not put off by all the necessary adjustments and modifications needed to make the lathe into a usable machine. However I did not expect to have such a basic fault, thankfully now sorted. My original posting was for advice and I certainly received good advice and I think I detected some anti feeling towards this type of mini-lathe.
As I said, I went into this purchase with my eyes open and so as you rightly say, you get what you pay for. I do wonder if the person who bought my replacement lathe is now one of your customers.
I have purchased form you in the past and no doubt will do do again.
Hi Roger, I couldn't have had better service from Vevor, they were really helpful but as expected required proof of the faulty part. The resolution was to send me a replacement lathe, I suspect they do not hold spare parts themselves. I looked into obtaining a new crosslide and this cost around £45 so the obvious thing to do was to buy one to effect the cure.
Feeling guilty accepting a whole new machine I suggested I ought to return the secomd lathe but was informed I could keep it and use it as I wished. The restocking cost made the return uneconomic for Vevor. I should add the lathe is the cheapest in their range at £380 or thereabouts.
I have made various improvements to the original and now it is quite acceptable.
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