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Member postings for David Clark 1

Here is a list of all the postings David Clark 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: CM10 Mill Gears
22/11/2015 09:48:12

It might be safer and cheaper to buy a bit of steel with known qualities. Cheaper than a new mill.

Thread: Unimat 3 thread cutting attachment
22/11/2015 09:44:34

They are often on EBay .com and but they are not cheap. Would probably give you an idea what you are looking for/ need to make.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 22/11/2015 09:45:23

Thread: Motor issues
22/11/2015 09:37:41

A 1/4hp motor will probably be fine for the size of cutters you would use on a Centec. I thought the reversing switch was usually on the lower front of the machine but it has been nearly forty years since I used one. The switch reversed the direction of rotation by flicking the lever. This was a three phase machine.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 22/11/2015 09:41:15

Thread: Whats this tool?
21/11/2015 17:16:34

Yes, lathe carrier I expect.

Thread: How to make a hollow punch for making teflon washers
21/11/2015 09:25:53

I would make a simple press tool. Two sheets of say 3mm steel with a 1mm + spacer. Bore the 18mm hole through both strips and make an 18mm diameter top hat punch from silver steel and harden it. Use a bench vice or similar to press the hole. Then put the embryo washers on an 18mm mandrel and turn the od.

Thread: How much of a morse taper needs to be in ( or "How can I stick an oversized taper in a tiny spindl")
21/11/2015 09:17:51

You used to be able to get Morse taper 0 from EBay. Probably still available.

Thread: Dehumidifiers
21/11/2015 09:03:43

The larger one wil be best. Also you can use chemical tray that you can put on window ledges around the house on each machine.

Thread: Material for pulley shaft, and bearings
20/11/2015 20:35:45

I would suggest silver steel for the spindle. I would not recommend a vee belt on a flat pulley. Probably two flat pulleys slightly bowed in the centre would be best at low speed.

Thread: Identifying taps
20/11/2015 20:32:38

You might be able to etch them with a Burgess top etcher. You might need a diamond point.

You might be able to compare one unknown tap with a known one.

Thread: Plea for a copy of MEW 234
20/11/2015 20:28:45

When I was editor I was sent 10 copies (quantity could be changed at editor's request) for any readers who did not get their copy. At the end of the year I took any surplus copies for sale at the Model Engineer Exhibition.

Thread: Stuart 10H and 10V build thread
20/11/2015 20:25:29

No, no idea but the finish does not look good enough for shell casting.

20/11/2015 19:02:56
My castings have a very poor finish. They may well have been shot blasted. I purchased both sets new at the Harrogate Exhibition this year. Older castings had a much finer finish. Once the castings are spray painted with primer/ filler they should be fine.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 20/11/2015 19:12:02

Thread: Plea for a copy of MEW 234
20/11/2015 15:45:48

The issues were never put into stock at the subscription bureau until the issue went off sale.

Thread: Lads and Dads Grasshopper Haulage Engine
20/11/2015 12:51:55

Very nice. I am looking forward to them being available as a book (l hope)

Thread: Fits and limits
20/11/2015 12:45:24

A Zeus book should give you all you need or perhaps an older copy of Machinerys' Handbook.

Thread: Plea for a copy of MEW 234
20/11/2015 10:29:06

Neil should have a couple of spare copies for use in an emergency.

Thread: Stuart 10H and 10V build thread
19/11/2015 09:10:54

Filing is not difficult. With the base above, just file off the lug and then file the base flat. To file flat try and file the base hollow using the flat face of a file. It is difficult if not impossible to file hollow so the result will be a flat surface possibly with a bow. That is where the felt tip and wet and dry come in. By coating the casting's edge and then rubbing on the wet and dry paper the high spots will show as shiny bits while the low spots will retain the marker pen. Keep lightly removing the high spots, recoating and rubbing on the wet and dry paper. Eventually you will have a flat casting. I will cover milling the 10H base casting later on.

I will use whatever photos that are needed to show the individual operations, the quantity will reduce as we go through the build.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 19/11/2015 09:11:45

Thread: Fitting a budget DRO to a Warco WM14 milling machine
18/11/2015 20:35:46

Hi Mechman48

I am mounting mine in a similar place but square (90 degrees) to the table.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 18/11/2015 20:37:41

Thread: Stuart 10H and 10V build thread
18/11/2015 20:31:05

Cleaning up the 10V box bed.


I held the 10V box bed in the vice to file off the lug and true the bottom up. I used some cardboard in the vice to protect the casting. A better bet would be some aluminum angle soft jaws which I will get at the weekend. I completely removed the lug and filed the base fairly flat.


I used a flat file on the base and sides of the casting and a round file on the sides of the mounting lugs,


After filing the base flat I coated the lower face with black permanent marker. (A sharpie marker pen.)


Then I rubbed the base on a piece of wet and dry paper to remove the marker pen from the high spots. Repeat this sequence, lightly filing away the shiny high spots, until the base is completely flat.

You could rub the top surface down flat and end mill the underside instead if you wish but it does not take long to rub the bottom face completely flat.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 18/11/2015 20:32:16

18/11/2015 20:19:23

When refering to the Stuart exploded views, I will use the Stuart part Nos suffixed by either V for vertical or H for horizontal.


The photo above shows the 10H box bed part No 29H and the main casting 11H. There is a fair bit of flash to remove but this does not take very long.


The photo above shows the 10V box bed part No 30V and the bedplate part No 29V. There is some flash to be trimmed off as well as a casting lug to file off.


The photo above shows the main trunk guide part No 11V. This is a separate part in the vertical engine but is an integral part of the main bed casting in the 10H. Note the two large casting lugs that will need filing off later.


Three missing "V" suffix added by JasonB

Edited By JasonB on 18/11/2015 20:47:01

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